First hollow point mold, need instruction.

[wallenba]

I just unboxed a new Lyman single cav. HP mold (#457122 330 gr). Instructions don't give a clue how to best use it or warm it up. I've got plenty of casting experience, but would like to know what to avoid doing. First, heating up the HP pin obviously has to be separate from the mold, correct? After pouring, should I try to pull out the HP pin? Or will it fall out after tapping and opening the mold?


Anything you can pass on will help. Thanks.

[OuchHot!]

I pour and when the sprue is ready to cut, cut it and pull the pin then open. In some cases I have an alcohol burner to warm the pin on (it very lightly soots it as well, I think) but generally, once I am up to temp. the pin hasn't needed further warming. First casts, you can dip the pin in the alloy or use and off board heating system like I mentioned above. this tactic works well with a 41027 hbwc mold for the 41 and the pin is a big honker.....I see no reason why it wouldn't work with a small hp nose pin.

[rintinglen]

I have not had great success with the Lyman hollow point molds, but what worked best for me was preheating the mold, upside down with the pin in place on the edge of my pot or on a hot plate. The problem I had was fumbling all that in and out while wearing gloves. I never did produce consistently good boolits, seems like as soon as I stared to get a rhythm going, a boolit would hang up or I'd fumble getting the pin in and the temperature of the blocks would drop enough to give me bad nose fill out around the pin.

[Tar Heel]

I started casting HP's this year after many years of casting. Just go for it. You will be casting HP's just fine. I have two Lyman HP molds and they cast beautifully. Keep cadence up and keep alloy & mold hot. You will have fine bullets within a few throws. Nothing to it.

114940

[Hardcast416taylor]

I had "Buckshot" do the HP job of about 4 - 5 of my single cavity molds some years back, best decision I have made in a long time for excellent work.Robert

[Larry Gibson]

With the Lyman HP moulds just clean and prep the mould as usual. You can heat the mould with the pin in it depending on how you do it. I usually just set it with the pin knob up on the Mag 20 heating plate while the alloy is melting and reaching casting temp. With a good alloy I like to cast at 725 +/- degrees. I adjust the cast tempo so the bullets just do not get frosty. After the sprue hardens I twist the pin and remove it an place in the warming holder (picture). The propane flame is adjusted to keep the pin hot enough but not too hot while I then cut the sprue and knock the bullet out of the mould. The blocks are then closed, the sprue plate closed and then the pin is inserted and twist locked into position. Then another bullet is poured and I inspect the previously cast bullet rolling with tweezers for defects. If defective it goes into the pot and if good it goes into the pile of good ones. Then the next sprue is solidified and the cycle repeats itself.

Larry Gibson

114942

[OuchHot!]

I use a very similar fixture (coat-hanger I think) and an alcohol lamp to heat my pin. I wish I had more of the lyman single cavity molds.