M98 Scope Mount

[M98-44']

I have a Large ring Mauser M98. I would like to mount a scope on it but this thing is in great condition. All the kits i see to mount scopes without drilling and tapping require you to cut and bend the bolt... First off why... secondly is there one where I would not have to cut the rifle bolt.

[Blammer]

if you have a straight bolt on your gun when you open the action the scope will be in the way and you will not be able to get the action open to reload it.
IE look at a YUGO 24/47 for an example.

If your bolt is already "bent" meaning it doesn't point directly to the right when the action is closed you're fine.

[Blammer]

what kits are you looking at that are not drill and tap?

and they say to 'cut' the bolt?

after reading your post again I'm not so sure I understand what you're looking at?

you say you have a large ring Mauser 98, who made it? Was it a take off action?

Is it currently barrelled and ready to shoot you just want to add a scope?

Where are you finding these no drill and tap instructions for adding a scope?

Need some more info please.

[twotrees]

http://www.combatoptical.com/catalog/MAUSER-98-K98-rifle-scout-scope-mount-350.html


For $40 and a Long Eye relief pistol scope, you don't have to modify anything. Remove the rear sight and save the parts, where you can find them, intstall this setup and go shoot.

Get a scope with the proper eye relief 'cause all pistol scopes ain't cerated equal.

Good Shooting,

TwoTrees

[sundog]

I did this to a 98 Mauser awhile back, but the mount I used was a B-Square. Put a 2X Rifle Scout Scope on it, not a pistol scope. When the gun is mounted, with both eyes open, the scope seems to automatically acquire whatever you are looking at. Very fast. No gunsmithing required. Seems to be holding zero just fine.

[M98-44']

Double Post

[M98-44']

what kits are you looking at that are not drill and tap?

and they say to 'cut' the bolt?

after reading your post again I'm not so sure I understand what you're looking at?

you say you have a large ring Mauser 98, who made it? Was it a take off action?

Is it currently barrelled and ready to shoot you just want to add a scope?

Where are you finding these no drill and tap instructions for adding a scope?

Need some more info please.

There are alot of kits that allow you to put on a scope without drilling tapping or otherwise modifiying your rifle. S&K makes a whole line of them. As you can see i have a very old rifle, circa 1938, in top shape for its age and id rather not do anything drastic to it. I may buy a second bolt with a bent handle for a scope... But would rather not. Also thanks for the other link to replace the rear leaf sight twotrees. Question on it though. Do you think thats too far forward? I mean thats alot of eye releif outside the norm of 1 - 4 inches.

[Blammer]

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/blammer8mm/DSCN4716.jpg

S&K mount and a weaver pistol scope. Perfect for this application.

[Blammer]

as you can see with this application of mount and scope it doesn't matter if you have a straight bolt or a bent bolt.

So I am still confused as to why any of these kits would say to "cut" the bolt or have it bent.

I don't "see" any pic if you posted one or a link... I may be missing something....

[grumpy one]

There are two generic ways to mount a scope on a military Mauser. One is to put it in the conventional position directly above the magazine, and the other is to put it in scout position. To put it in the conventional position you have to wreck your rifle pretty comprehensively. Unless you want to use a very, very high mount you have to reshape your bolt handle, not just bend it, and replace the original safety with a tang or side type. You have to drill and tap the action, both at the back on top beside the bolt release, and through the front ring above the barrel thread. The rear screws will have very little purchase because the action is thin there due to the cut-out for the locking lug.

To put it in the scout position you can either use a wrap-around clamp mount, which requires the stock to be cut away, or a rail that replaces the rear sight. In principle the rear sight replacement is the least intrusive solution. However it requires some compromises somewhere along the line. The one recommended above would not suit me, because it is inherently both flimsy and vulnerable. However if you are satisfied with it, that may be a workable answer. I made my own scout mount by milling it from solid steel, to suit a short 4x32 pistol scope, so the rail is very short and is screwed down at both ends. However this meant drilling and tapping a hole at the rear of the original sight base to match the one at the front. It is only in the sight base, without affecting the barrel, and it can't be seen when the original battle sight is in place, but it's there, and it's a modification.

If you just want to be able to use a scope without damaging your rifle, one solution is to buy or trade for a plastic or beater wooden stock, and cut that away to accept a wrap-around scope mount. You will have a proper rigid scope mount, and you can return the rifle to original condition when you want to. Otherwise, you'll need to look at the available scope mounts that go on the rear sight base, and see which one you dislike least.

[M98-44']

Well it looks like the Scout position is where im going. But What Scope would you recommend for that sort of application/eye releif.


Blammer Here you go.

http://www.crankyfarmer.com/Mauserscopemount.jpg

[grumpy one]

First, I detest that set-up in the picture you've posted. I'll refrain (with difficulty) from commenting on what has been done to the bolt, but that mount is very, very high and I can't see how you'd use it except on the bench - and even then you might get badly smacked in the chops each time you fired it.

On the subject of scope selection, it is mostly a matter of eye relief, as you say. Both for scout scopes and pistol scopes eye relief can vary quite a lot, so you need to identify a particular scope that will suit a particular mount. FWIW, what I did was figure out about where the back of a scope would be if I made the mount I had in mind, then shouldered the rifle and measured the distance from my eye. I rejected scopes until I found a close match. In my view scout mounts only work satisfactorily with short scopes, and the mount itself will be very short as well if it is going to be strong and rigid. That means you can't expect to slide the scope back and forth through the mount to adjust eye relief: what you get will be what you get, you'll only be able to adjust it longitudinally by a quarter of an inch.

In my case I'm also a cheapskate, so I wanted cheap glass that could stand 30-06 recoil over the long haul, while having better-than-Tasco optics. I seem to have found it - but that was just luck, given that I bought it second-hand on ebay for not-very-much, relying on the seller's report on eye relief, strength and optical quality. It's been on the rifle for a couple of years, and fired a few hundred shots so far, many of them jacketed loads of higher than factory pressure. Nothing appears to have shifted in the slightest degree. It happens to be a 4x32 Ruko, a brand I've never heard of before or since. I don't recommend the brand or the scope; I may have just been lucky with the particular example. I suggest you either buy the best (presumably Leupold) or work from someone's specific recommendation, or better still, several people's recommendations.

[Blammer]

I'd have to agree with GO above on the eye relief thing. I too held my head down and measured where my eye was and where the start of the scope would be to measure eye relief. I found that in my set up there was some 'wiggle' room for mounting the scope forward or back to get the correct eye relief.

I've set up my 'scout' mount and lok tighted everything in place. Ain't moved yet and I've shot several hundred full house loads through it.

there are several options out there for scout mounts, so look around to find whay you like and what works. Don't worry about what you can afford, if it works and you like it, you can't afford NOT to get it.

[M98-44']

Thanks for the info, but yea never would i ever do anything to a rifle like this that would be a permenant modification like choping the bolt for a above the mag style scope mouting.

[BigGun]

bollit mold
If you can use a hand gun scope , B-Sqare makes one, it is on page 346 of
Brownells cat.#59, I have one of these on My Moroccan m-48. Works great,
Remove the rear sight leaf , mount replaces it. nothing else needs to be done
to the rifle. no rifle mods. sells for $79.30.
Ted Kelley

[BigGun]

The hand gun scope I have on my morrocan m- 48 is a Simmons 4x32. any hand
gun or'LER' scope will have more than enough eye relieve for your application.
Ted Kelley

[racepres]

Let me add that I find that a handgun scope has way more eye relief than I needed,, I will use an IER, like a shotgun scope, next time!! MV

[grumpy one]

I think you need to find a scope with the correct eye relief, not one with more than enough. Different types and styles of handgun scopes seem to have eye relief anywhere from about 8" to about 24". For this job you need one at the 8" end of the range.

[Junior1942]

All handgun scopes aren't created equally. Do a side-by-side comparison in dim light and see which scope has the best light gathering ability. In comparison to several lesser brands, the Leupold 2.5x28 IER was like someone had turned on a giant outside light.

[TAWILDCATT]

Blammer: there is a mount in center fire systems flier for $19 that replaces rear sight. this is a new item.#28mntmau02 $19.99. ask them for scope for that mount.
they have them for $19.99 and up I have bought from them for yrs and they are best price I got several 4 x 30 scopes for $13 for sks and AR15.[smilie=1::coffee: