Canoe build part 1

[prsman23]

Well guys, phase one of my canoe build is about to start.
There is a website called kickstarter. It is a website for projects to get backing (funding) for creative projects. I started a project there that just launched today. I am going to build a cedar strip canoe for a local boy scout troop. [FONT=arial]
I'll keep everyone abreast of what's going on with the build here too with pics :)

[prsman23]

Update #1

The plans came in today. So things are actually starting to come together. I ended up ordering the bear mountain prospector 16'.
Found the source of some clear western red cedar in 17' boards.

I'm looking for suggestions on a few feature full length strips. What would mix well with the cedar? Any ideas?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/02/5b73ec63cdc819ac745089ec952061b4.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/02/f544cb836ae808e2e8d6b686957ade45.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/02/42e5b39fef8aad46bb381eea01252fe3.jpg

Trebek can hardly contain his excitement about the new canoe. Can you tell?

[nanuk]

I met a guy who has made some of those.... they are a thing of beauty!

good luck to you!

[Pinsnscrews]

Glad to see it starting up. Don't mind me as I make up some popcorn and watch it unfold...:popcorn:

[prsman23]

Found some lumber today. I'm going to get started milling this weekend!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/14/7c6b534a9f5a8024dab40abd2d050d76.jpg

[garandsrus]

Are you ripping 3/4" boards into thiner stock? Can you find the thickness you need? Is it 3/8, 1/4",or something else?

[prsman23]

I'll be planing them down and ripping them into about 1 billion 1/4" thick strips about 5/8 tall.

[garandsrus]

That's a small strip! A thin kerf blade will help avoid turning too much wood into sawdust.

[Just Duke]

I'm looking forward to the finished product.

[prsman23]

I'm looking forward to the finished product.

Me too. I bought a second set of plans just to be adventurous. I'm planning on taking my time on this one. Just setting it up as a bunch of smaller projects for now. This week I'll be getting everything set up in preparation for milling the strips.


I need to put together some sort of support system for these 18' boards. I ordered a book from laughing loon. He's got some good ideas. Also got the DVD set from bear mountain. Real nice folks.

Next week I should start on the strips. The next the strong back.

[prsman23]

It's been a while since I've updated. Lots of things got in the way. Finished planing the wood to final thickness today. My next planned workday is Saturday. Hopefully I'll be ripping the strips then.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/271c4028c0efaa146ab8f3714dd4c487.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/f606c4433e0aaeea74fc39d0fbf6c3df.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/676e36bd799d2bb567530785e1e99a9e.jpg

[danthman114]

flux for the next 100 years or so...

ive always wanted to build one but dont have the talent... lol cant wait to see the finished product.

[prsman23]

Yeah. That's why I collected it. I may send some out as pifs to new casters!

Trust me. I have no talent. Just trying to build some skill. I've never tackled anything like this before.

[gnoahhh]

Do you have the bits to mill the noses and coves onto the edges of your planking? What are you using as mold stations on your strong back? MDF works great.

Having built a couple small craft using the cold molding system (up to and including a wooden 35 foot sail boat), the most emphatic word of advice I can pass along is over engineer your strongback "stronger" than you think is necessary, and sweat bullets making that rascal straighter than straight and dead level. Any compromises will magnify themselves into real issues as the build progresses.

Good luck and have fun! (It sounds like you are!)

[prsman23]

Do you have the bits to mill the noses and coves onto the edges of your planking? What are you using as mold stations on your strong back? MDF works great.

Having built a couple small craft using the cold molding system (up to and including a wooden 35 foot sail boat), the most emphatic word of advice I can pass along is over engineer your strongback "stronger" than you think is necessary, and sweat bullets making that rascal straighter than straight and dead level. Any compromises will magnify themselves into real issues as the build progresses.

Good luck and have fun! (It sounds like you are!)

I keep going back and fourth on the head and cove. Since I'm making the strips myself I'm leaning towards a rolling bevel. I don't think I will have the will to setup the router and I'm not convinced they are worth the extra effort. Probably going to follow the laughing loon guys advise on doing a 3 degree bevel on the strips and hand bevel the extra few that may need it.

From what I've read it seems the extra "glue" area is kind of a moot point. The rigidity of the craft seems to be all in the fiberglass and epoxy. And I think by the time Id get the router setup perfectly Id have wasted more wood than I want to and could have been stripping the hull for a good while. Plus the fact that many many canoes were built before the whole bead and cove thing suggests I'll be ok without.

I was going to use the mdf for the forms and a good quality 3/4 ply for the strong back. I've planned to use the bear mountain strongback. I'm hoping to plan ahead and make it versatile enough for the two I'm planning to build. One being a 17' and the other a 14'.

Any suggestions or differing opinions sought after and not ignored. It's my first rodeo so to speak so help a guy out if Ya can!

[gnoahhh]

Sounds like you have a good grip on the process. I'm sure you'll do just fine.

You're right, most of the strength in that hull will come from the fiberglass cloth layers , both inside and out. A nice touch is to add a top layer of kevlar cloth below the water line. It provides a lot of abrasion resistance and is well worth the extra cost. I like the bead and cove because it gives a modicum of lock which comes in handy when laying in the planking, especially if you work single-handedly. I wouldn't change course though were I in your shoes at this point, just something to consider for the next one.

[prsman23]

I was planing on giving b&c a shot on the next one. That way I have something to compare it with. Good idea on the Kevlar. Any idea how much weight it adds?

[gnoahhh]

Virtually no more than a layer of fiberglass, and you'll want to add an extra layer of 'glass on the bottom anyway. Just substitute the Kevlar for the 'glass. A couple seasons in shallow creeks and you'll be glad you did.

[Just Duke]

Are you going to bead and cove the edges? I have a link to the router bit sight that has the bits.

[prsman23]

Not this build. The next.

[prsman23]

Are you going to bead and cove the edges? I have a link to the router bit sight that has the bits.

Have you started your build yet?

[Just Duke]

I'm still stuck in Vegas and even if I had one built there's no where to take it.

[prsman23]

I'm still stuck in Vegas and even if I had one built there's no where to take it.

Off roading set up and a sail? Fun on the dunes?

[Just Duke]

Off roading set up and a sail? Fun on the dunes?

I live in a Walmart parking lot covered with 300 mile of low grade concrete. I'm not a sand person or a mechanical vehicle lover. We came here for jobs.

[prsman23]

Bummer. Some day my man!

[Just Duke]

Without the bead and cove you going to need a couple gallon cans of Bondo.

[prsman23]

Hopefully not. I've done some reading and as long as I take my time do the 3 degree bevel and hand bevel where it needs it I think there won't be much of an issue with gaps. One of my buddies is building bead and cove and still has plenty of gaps. I think it's just a matter of paying attention. The edges are so fragile on the strips that have the cove that they can break off and give you just as much gap trouble. Hopefully with some attention to detail I'll make it through with only a gallon of bondo :-)

[Just Duke]

How well did that mask seal with a beard? That cedar is some nasty stuff and will cook you sinuses and lungs.

[prsman23]

It's a short beard so no issues. The guy at the lumber yard told me the same thing. It's pretty wicked stuff for sure

[Just Duke]

It's a short beard so no issues. The guy at the lumber yard told me the same thing. It's pretty wicked stuff for sure

That's good to hear. At least you only have to filter out particulates instead of virulent's.
Spalted woods with fill your lungs with a mould that will kill you.

[prsman23]

Had a guitar with a spalted maple top. Beautiful. Didn't know about that. Craziness.

[wonderwolf]

I've been working with purple heart on and off, was warned by a custom knife maker friend about the exotic woods and their dust.....scary stuff for sure. May upgrade my mask.

[Walter Laich]

Ran into the exotic wood problems making pens and other wood working items. Took me down for a couple of weeks. Kinda backed off and am OK
cedar still can get to me by just looking at it:razz:

[skeettx]

Great postings! Thanks for sharing
Mike

[Denver]

I just joined a local group a couple weeks ago that is in the process of building a b&c cedar strip canoe. They had been working on it about four weeks before I joined and had already installed about half of the planking. We work on it once a week for about two hours. Two local guys are instructing the class. Between them they've built a couple dozen canoes and kayaks. This canoe is being built and will be raffled off this summer with the proceeds going to the Firemans Memorial Fund. We should finish the planking this next session and will begin planing and sanding the hull in prep for the fiberglassing.
My neighbor and a friend built strip canoe a year ago that turned out great. I wasn't here last winter, so didn't get to see how it went. They offered to let me use their strongback and forms if I decide to build one of my own. Thats a big help right there in time and cost savings. Hafta wait till the weather moderates a little before I can start anything (28 below this AM), and no heat in the garage. I plan to do most of my sawing for the strips outside, but not for a while. Anyway, good luck with your project, and keep us informed.

D

[prsman23]

Will do. It's been too cold to get out and plane the edges. High is 14 today

[paul h]

I was planing on giving b&c a shot on the next one. That way I have something to compare it with. Good idea on the Kevlar. Any idea how much weight it adds?

One caution with Kevlar is that it does not wet out or follow a shape anywhere near as nicely as fiberglass and hence you will need to vacuum bag or use some other means of getting it to follow the shape of the hull. Additional weight will be minimal for the cloth, the weight will come from the resin required to wet it out.

Personally I'd get a roll of 1" or 2" wide kevlar tape and run it down the keel line of the boat. That's what will see the majority of the abuse and you'll have some leftover for repair.

http://fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Reinforcements/Carbon_and_Kevlar/Style-281-kevlar-tape-2.png