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Rich/WIS
08-14-2014, 11:06 AM
Have used Lee DC molds for years and gotten satisfactory performance. Bought a 9mm 120 TC and a 45ACP 200 SWC in six cavity and have the same issues with both. First issue is wear on the sprue plate where it slides under the bolt when closed. The bolt is eating the sprue plate, even when well lubed with antisieze. Second issue is the area between the sprue plate and mold where it pivots on the block. It as almost as though the aluminum mold is galling and turning up pieces of aluminum. At first I thought I had lead get under the sprue plate, but when I removed the sprue plate I realized that it wasn't lead, it was aluminum. I have had to file off the lumps of metal that are turned up on both molds. I lubed this area with antisieze also so not sure what is happening. Any one else have this happen, if so is there a fix, or am I missing something when using the molds.

trapper9260
08-14-2014, 11:23 AM
When I use the 6 cav like you have I always make sure it is hot and it seams that I have less problems and go from there.I have not had any problems with the bolt on the plate like you do.I do not know what to say.

JonB_in_Glencoe
08-14-2014, 11:28 AM
The expensive answer is a aftermarket steel sprue plate.

As to my experience, I have gotten that Galling on two of my many many Lee 6 cav molds using the original sprue plate. I use Bullplate sprue lube, I don't know exactly why this happens, but I suspect there is a burr? One was so bad, I re-mounted the sprue plate to it hinged on the other side...after I cleaned up the galling.

Regarding the wear on the sprue plate mounting channel from closing on the bolt...I don't see that as a big issue. If will only wear so much, til it's a worn fit.
that's my 2¢
Jon

AbitNutz
08-14-2014, 12:03 PM
I just ordered a steel sprue plate from KAL....they do work.

http://kal.castpics.net/Molds3.html

Rich/WIS
08-14-2014, 12:07 PM
The sprue plate is worn enough now that the channel will probably not get worse. The mold was hot when I started. The problem with galling on the pivot happened after about 200 bullets. I thought perhaps a particle of lead had gotten under it as it became difficult to open. I lubed it again at that point and it got better. I took it apart to clean it after I had cast 600 or so bullets and found the problem. This was the same issue on both the 9mm and 45 mold. I removed the galling and lubed it before I put it back together and hopefully the problem will not come back. I really like the molds as the bullets drop easily and feeding 2 9mm's and 3 45's I need the production capacity.

MattOrgan
08-14-2014, 12:10 PM
On my Lee six cavities I take a stone to just slightly relieve and polish the bottom edge of the bolt. This allows the sprue plate to slide under the head easily. I use Ben's Red lube on the top of the plate and the other points as recommended by Lee and have no problems. I'm not sure if anti-seize works the same way, aluminum and steel don't slide across each other well and the aluminum seems to get "stickier" the hotter it gets. I get the best bullets from all my aluminum molds casting hot, so lubing with bullet lube really is important. I use Ben's Red now, but before I used Alox types, LBT, RCBS, and straight beeswax. They all worked.

1911KY
08-14-2014, 12:15 PM
If you remove the sprue plate and take some 600 grit sandpaper to it and all around the edges, do you think that would help smooth it out a little? I did this to my new Lee 2 cavity moulds, as the sprue plate was slicing lines in the tops of the moulds.

too many things
08-17-2014, 03:37 PM
anti Seize will NOT work on hot molds. unless you get the copper or nickel. and its not cheap. try the kroil it works, or bullshop lube

Harter66
08-21-2014, 05:29 PM
I very had a couple that scared the blocks a little. I took the plate off an ran on a hone stone (read the same type I hone the kitchen knives on but new flat and for the shop only) until it was flat, eg all the face white and the edges rolled off. 1 I should have tossed but it runs fine now.

cwheel
08-21-2014, 05:53 PM
I just finished making one out of W1 Starrett tool steel, ( 3/16 X 1 1/2" ) bought enough stock to make 3 of them and give them a try. I have the same galling problem with the stock Lee plates on several of my 6 bangers. Weather cools off a little around here, will give them a try in the fall. Think the ones being made up in steel with the group buy are a big step in the right direction. I may have gone overboard on the material, but if it doesn't work out, it won't be because the material is to soft or doesn't hold the cutting edge. Although I used a milling machine to make mine, most folks could use a simple drill press and hand tools for this one, isn't a difficult job at all.
Chris