1st stab at powder coating. Got questions.

[blueline541]

Having no clue what I'm doing I bought some HF red, a used $6 toaster oven from the Goodwill, and some black airsoft pellets from Walmart. I did the shake and bake method in a No. 5 marked plastic container with lid. A did one coat on my .45 acp boolits and baked them for twenty minutes at 400 degrees.

This is what I got...splotchy finish with plenty of visible areas that appear to have no powder coating at all.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z46/blueline541/PCbullet2_zps271106c5.jpg



Next I tried a very small batch of my 405 gr. .45-70 Govt boolits. I did two coats just like the one I did above on the .45s.

Much better....

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z46/blueline541/PCbullet_zps4a74e97b.jpg



At this point I realize I don't really know what I'm doing. Are the .45 acp boolits any good as they are, or do they need a second coat? Any suggestions on how to get a better first coat on these boolits? Two coats makes the process so slow, compared to my Star, that powder coating doesn't seem to be a viable option for regular handgun shooting.

Forgot to add that it is raining today, although I'm doing all this in the kitchen.

[silverado]

I noticed that if I have too much pc in my tumble container they come out splotchy. I have never used the airsoft bb method. I would bet as long as they are mostly coated along the barrel riding surface you might as well shoot them... no harm is wasting all that hard work.

[Taylor]

yours look a lot better than mine.I have tried every method.read all the post and stickies,watched all the you tube videos,just can't make it work for me.wet and dry tumble,shake and bake using a vibrating tumbler and hand shake.used numerous #5 containers also.used rubbing alcohol,denatured alcohol,paint and lacquer thinner and..acetone,both to clean and wet tumble.All this with harbor freight powder.the red sticks to everything but the lead.the yellow just globs up.you my friend are way ahead of me in results with this pc.good luck.

[RED333]

I use 2 or 3 coats sometimes to get a full coat, not a big deal to me.
Still in the learning faze here.

[Bill in Ky]

I too am new to PCing but I have found that when my boolets are not completely covered i add a little more HF red and shake.
The powder has to become charged with static electricity, so I swirl the boolits., 50 452 200 SWC's at a time, then I shake the CoolWhip bowl up and down, this will get the powder in the air and let it find the boolits. I do use the WalMart black bb's.
If its humid sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get them covered, and sometimes I will put half on the tray and shake the rest again.
I wear a latex glove and with that hand, I pick up a boolit and gently roll it between my finger and thumb, You can even dip your fingers down in the powder and it will add some coating to the boolit.
Just my $.02

[Taylor]

Bill,where you at in Ky?

[Beagle333]

The ASBBDT is still sort of a mystery to me as well. Sometimes I get nice almost-as-slick-as-ESPC boolits, and other times they still have silver showing on the second coat.
It's great when it works, though! I still have 3 powders that I haven't tried yet, so I don't know if it is powder related, or some other influence. So far though, I have had the best (probably 90% of the time) coverage with Smoke's green powder. HF red is working out about half the time.

[JohnH]

Your first picture looks like what I get. When shooting yesterday with plain lubed boolits, I had a failure to feed that I'd not had with ASBBDT boolits. I think that the slickness of the PC coat does aid feeding, just not yet sure that the pleasure outweighs the pain.

[Bill in Ky]

Taylor,
I am 2 hours up I24 from MusicCity. Near the lake.

[el34]

There have been enough positive comments about the powder from Smoke so I ordered some. A vigorous 30sec shake back-forth and a gentle shake up-down and they were completely and thickly covered. Rolling between thumb and finger before setting them on the foil evened out everything.

So if 1 out of 1 tests is conclusive I'd say I found the recipe.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?250245-Smoke-s-powder

[Beagle333]

There have been enough positive comments about the powder from Smoke so I ordered some. A simple shake back-forth and another shake up-down and they were completely and thickly covered. Rolling between thumb and finger before setting them on the foil evened out everything.


So far.... Smoke is the man!!!!:bigsmyl2:

[True.grit]

When using the tumble method do not forget to rub on the carpet. It seems to build a better charge than not doing it. I also use white air soft pellets as they were cheaper than buying the black ones. I have been pc for about a month now and have had no problems at all. Great processes , never going back to grease.

[mdi]

May be unrelated, but in my area, Coastal Southern Oregon it's pretty damp and not much static electricity "in the air". Sometimes I get good coverage with one shake session, at other times with the same components the coverage is a bit more spotty...

BTW, been away for a few days so I guess I missed Smoke's powder sales info. Link anyone?

[el34]

This is what I got...splotchy finish with plenty of visible areas that appear to have no powder coating at all.

Next I tried a very small batch of my 405 gr. .45-70 Govt boolits. I did two coats just like the one I did above on the .45s.

Much better....

At this point I realize I don't really know what I'm doing.


yours look a lot better than mine.I have tried every method.read all the post and stickies,watched all the you tube videos,just can't make it work for me.wet and dry tumble,shake and bake using a vibrating tumbler and hand shake.used numerous #5 containers also.used rubbing alcohol,denatured alcohol,paint and lacquer thinner and..acetone,both to clean and wet tumble.All this with harbor freight powder.the red sticks to everything but the lead.the yellow just globs up.you my friend are way ahead of me in results with this pc.good luck.


mdi- Sometimes I get good coverage with one shake session, at other times with the same components the coverage is a bit more spotty.

Have y'all tried the Harbor Freight ElectroStatic gun? All that stuff goes away, it just works. Any powder. Any phase of the moon. Any humidity. Just can't do it in the kitchen unless it's an outdoor one.

[Beagle333]

This one?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?249802-PC-Powder-Server-fund-Drive

[Beagle333]

Have y'all tried the Harbor Freight ElectroStatic gun? All that stuff goes away, it just works. Any powder. Any phase of the moon. Any humidity.

But I done collected all this stuff!!!!
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Iron_Butterfly-In_a_gadda_da_vida-front_zps84752ed1.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Wood-Ouija-Board2_zps4d1313a3.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/incense-burning2_zpsaab41879.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/34_pyramid-power2_zpsc73ed309.jpg

[el34]

Beagle, you're a bit more complicated than I realized. Something about your youth activities I guess.

[blueline541]

My second attempt, with 158 gr bullets, turned out real nice with two coats. Here they are on top of 12.8 gr. of AA#9. Accuracy was what I was wanting, and I had zero leading. When I finished shooting I swabbed the barrel with a single patch of Break-Free and the barrel was mirror clean.

I'm sold.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z46/blueline541/357red_zps9c32b51f.jpg

[mdi]

Have y'all tried the Harbor Freight ElectroStatic gun? All that stuff goes away, it just works. Any powder. Any phase of the moon. Any humidity. Just can't do it in the kitchen unless it's an outdoor one.

Yep, have one. But, I can only use it when it isn't raining, 'cause it must be done outdoors. I tried spraying in my reloading shed, and that extra fine powder gets everywhere! Two windows open, door open (2' away from bench), one 12" fan, 1, 6" fan. Still wiping green powder off tools from my last PC session, 3 months ago...

[bangerjim]

I am able to coat any boolit with any powder (except matte finishes) using the modified method I have posted many times. It is a version of the original BBDT using black BB's in a #5 screw-on lid ZipLok container.

Swirl for 1.5-2 min vigorously.

Then......VERY IMPORTANT for 100% coverage.........

SHAKE up & down hard for 20-30 seconds. (the reason for the screw-on lid!)

This gives 110% coverage every time. 110% means you have to tap your hemos against the lip of the container to knock any loose powder off. This works GRRRRRRRRRREAT! Every time. The shaking suspends the powder/bb/boolit mix in the air and allows the powder to really stick to the boolits. Don't ask me how............it just works.

The ESPC method is still by far the best and most reliable. You just need to be willing to invest around $70 for the gun. And have a compressor and hoses and regs.

Have fun a-coatin'!

bangerjim

ps..........that is ONLY one coat......no more. If it takes 2 coats, I use a different powder or method. And bake at 400F for ONLY 10 min. Any longer is a waste of time and electricity. 10 min is the industry standard.

[HollowPoint]

I'm sure this has been asked before. I know I made it a point to ask a guy on YouTube when he posted a vid on how he Powder Coated his pistol bullets.

I asked him if this Powder Coating process could be used on rifle bullets and if so, how fast could PC'd rifle bullets be pushed before Internal Ballistics problems were encountered. (leading, loss of accuracy, PC residue in barrel, the whole barrel twist Vs RPM debate most of us have read about )

He stated something to the effect that the higher velocities that cast rifles bullets were shot at were not as conducive to powder coating as the slower velocities that cast pistol bullets were shot at.

Knowing next to nothing about this subject, I wasn't sure if he was correct or not. I was just looking for some way to increase my cast rifle bullet velocities without running into the pitfalls of shooting lubed and naked cast rifle bullets to fast.

Generally speaking, how much faster can Powder Coated Rifle bullets be shot than a similar bullet without Powder Coating. I'm talking about an average 10 twist 30 caliber rifle with a 24 inch barrel.

I know there are alot of variables here. Too many variable to get any kind of definitive answer but, how much faster can such a Powder Coated Bullet be shot?

PS: Regardless of velocity, I think those Powder Coated bullets look cool as hell when done the way some of you more experienced Powder Coat guys have done.

HollowPoint

[Smoke4320]

I can answer only for myself and my testing (have not done much this summer .. too may family health issues) I treat Powdercoated Bullets just like plated bullets.. (PC harness is approx. 24-26 per manufacturer)
in rifles I have a load for my 6.5x55 going 1903 FPS (I believe it is a 145 Gr NOE Mold) that has killer sub MOA..
a 308 20" 1-10 twist, using Mil Hec 159 HP (actually weights 147-148) going over 1900 FPS again very accurately.. Both are 98/2 alloy .. I actually got to approx 2200 FPS before I started seeing wild groups.. More testing is needed before I know for sure what the limiting factor was here
have 45/70's and 458 socoms going over 1600 FPS again excellent accuracy .
Also these are all gas check bullets but I do NOT use gas checks .. recovered bullets show NO sign of any base coating burning off..so I see no need to use them .. at least at these speeds in MY guns

[Handloader109]

I'll say it again. If you read many of posts, a lot of problems with the HF Yellow and White and Black and only Red works. Well, the Red works, to a degree. It is **** compared to other quality PC powder. I have some black from an eBay source and it covers perfectly. Puts the HF red to shame. I would suggest spending a few $ on a powder that works all the time and not only when it is perfect conditions. The cost isn't that much more and would eliminate a lot of frustrations.

[fcvan]

MDI, I was able to ASBB tumble the other day when the fog was rolling into Crescent City and the powder stuck like crazy. I'd bought several different powders from Prismatic Powders over in White City and tried them out. Sparkle Pink and Ink Black took 2 coats and looked blotchy, but Fools Penny covered completely, 1 coat. I could vary the thickness with repeat ability and it came out smooth like ESPC.

I tumbled in the kitchen and baked outside but the powder stayed put. I'm sure everyone who has used HF Flat black has bumped their tray and watched the powder just fall off the boolits. I took to dumping out the boolits and ASBBs onto a cookie sheet and setting the boolits on foil with hemostats. Not one bit of powder came off nor any marks were left from handling. My primary method is still ESPC but it's nice to try out new things. ASBBTC sure is quick for coating a lot of pistol boolits.

[bangerjim]

The brand and quality of powder definitely makes a difference!

I have always used HF red because it is cheap and the store is 2 miles away. It works well with BBDT and ESPC.


But I bought some of Smoke's blue the other day and it REALLY sticks! I can drop the boolits after DT and the powder is still on there! HF will basically come off mostly. I have not tried any of his other colors yet, but it is a different formulation than HF and is VERY good.

bangerjim

[Beagle333]

Smoke's powders seem like they are finer and fluffier than others. They stick extremely well.
For ESPC, I can use whatever I have... and HF is my main powder for that, due to the price, but for tumbling I cannot beat Smoke's powders, thus far.

[ritepath]

Dry coating with red HF works just fine for me first coat. On my 124 9mm's. The problem I run into is when I try and use the lacquer thinner method. Always when they bake they'll bubble up in some areas and become way too rough in those areas for my tastes. Not sure if I'm letting them dry too long, not long enough, not enough tumble time or what....

[Beagle333]

I don't know why it does that. Mine bubble a little bit too, when using the Piglet method... but it's mostly down in the grooves and I don't sweat it. They shoot great.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/tb2005_zpsc7739a5b.jpg
These are baked...twice. The coating just makes them look wet. I like the look. :mrgreen:

[1911KY]

Did these last night with Smoke's powder. My new go to powder. Humidity was up so I needed 2 coatings but it is much improved over the HF White that I did.

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140822_002950_zpsn7q9lbfl.jpg
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140822_002845_zpszt62yhla.jpg


http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140822_003240_zpsgo1ilnaw.jpg

[bangerjim]

Remember........HF white and yellow are VERY poor at coverage. It is just like white paint over a dark surface, the pigment does not cover well.

The HF red covers extremely well! Try it. I also use Smoke's blue and love it.

All are only one coat for me! More is a waste of time and electricity. If it won't cover in one coat, find a different powder or a different method of putting it on.

banger

[1911KY]

Remember........HF white and yellow are VERY poor at coverage. It is just like white paint over a dark surface, the pigment does not cover well.

The HF red covers extremely well! Try it. I also use Smoke's blue and love it.

All are only one coat for me! More is a waste of time and electricity. If it won't cover in one coat, find a different powder or a different method of putting it on.

banger

Yea, I bought the HF white and black before I researched it thoroughly. I plan on getting an ES gun so I can spray the HF powder. But for DT I will go with the better powder.

I could have went one coating on the blue but I managed to scrape a little off while placing them on the baking sheet which made some bare spots on the driving bands, so I went ahead and gave them a second coat. Only added another 20 minutes, so no big deal for me. The HF white is useable after 2 coats, but like you said one coat is the way to go.

I don't much care for the color red or else I would buy some.

I am learning thanks to everyone on here.

[Smoke4320]

1911KY I would suggest you try the Green, Orange or Purple for great 1 coat coverage

Also I have found on pistol bullets the small section you may scrape off from handling with needle nose pliers usually makes no difference in performance (IE no leading)

[1911KY]

1911KY I would suggest you try the Green, Orange or Purple for great 1 coat coverage

Also I have found on pistol bullets the small section you may scrape off from handling with needle nose pliers usually makes no difference in performance (IE no leading)

I am more than happy with the blue! That is my preferred color. I plan to start spraying at some point so that should solve any of my shortcomings.

I tried a latex glove on my second coating and I think that may be what I use from now on. It doesn't completely remove the powder like pliers.

Good to know that I can still load them if they have voids.

[HollowPoint]

I picked up my Powder Coating gun from Harbor Freight yesterday and I Powder Coated a small number of 200 grain Lyman Devastators and some Hollow Pointed Lee 380 caliber bullets this afternoon. I think I did OK for my first time around. I used the Harbor Freight Red powder and it seemed to go on quite well. It was my inexperience that caused the few small mishaps I had.

I kept forgetting to press the foot-pedal when I sprayed the powder. I tipped over two batches of freshly coated bullets before making it all the way to the oven. Other than that, I considered my first Powder Coating session a success; and with very little powder wasted. If I get a chance, I'm going back tomorrow and picking up some white powder.

I think I got carried away because midway through the session, I decided to powder some of my 22 caliber 14 grain pellets just to see how much weight one coat of powder would add to them. It added .3 grains. I was hoping to get them up to an even 15 grains but I was short by .4 grains. Another coat might have gotten me there but I didn't want to increase the diameter to much.

Although I only used the HF red powder, I didn't see any of the problems that some of you guys have eluded to. Maybe I was just lucky.

Now I'll have to see if there's any difference in accuracy or leading. My beloved Kimber Custom Classic has been a tack driver right out of the box but, I've never shot any size, alloy or velocity that didn't leave some leading. Same with my 380 pocket pistol. If this Powder Coating will bring an end to the lead in my barrels, I'll be a happy camper.

HollowPoint

[el34]

I picked up my Powder Coating gun from Harbor Freight yesterday and I Powder Coated a small number of 200 grain Lyman Devastators and some Hollow Pointed Lee 380 caliber bullets this afternoon.

Congrats! And welcome! :drinks:

An improvement is to unscrew that yellow diffuser at the front end. It'll give you much more spraying control.



I kept forgetting to press the foot-pedal when I sprayed the powder.

That pedal hides sometimes! And the other thing is forgetting to hook up the ground clip.




Although I only used the HF red powder, I didn't see any of the problems that some of you guys have eluded to. Maybe I was just lucky.

HollowPoint

I don't think anybody has trouble with red, it's the white and yellow. But frankly I did fine with both of those also.

[HollowPoint]

The powder isn't that expensive. I might get all the colors and try mixing them together to make like a sissy pink color or an orange shade.

There was one picture posted somewhere on here that a guy got a nice looking grey color by mixing white and black.

I'll just have to experiment.

HollowPoint

[Beagle333]

Smoke sells pink and orange all ready to go (if you didn't know). He'll even sell you a half pound of each, or 1/4 pound each of 4 colors.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?241259-Hi-quality-Powder-for-DT-or-Spraying-bullets

[el34]

My first powdercoating was with the HF gun. I bought red, white, and yellow powder at the same time as the gun. Don't know why, the white and yellow worked for me as well as the red. My first ever ESPC pic, no yellow though, just red and white-

114304

[HollowPoint]

I think that the reason some folks are having issues with the lighter colored Harbor Freight powders may stem from the fact that they are spraying a lighter color over the darker base color of the lead cast bullets.

Generally speaking, in order to completely cover over a darker base color with a lighter top cover, it has to be applied thick enough so as to not allow any of the thinner sections of our powder application to cure so that those light spots appear to be flaws in the powder coat. This applies not only to powder coating but, to most painting in general. I'm sure most of you guys already know this. I'm not sure why I rambled on.

I've heard nothing but good things about Smoke's product line. I just like to experiment. If I can make it pink or grey or orange by mixing what I have on hand, I'll generally try that first before spending any more money.

By the way; a couple of days ago I posted an inquiry about the possibility of having my initial coat of powder acting as a non-conductive layer that would prevent the application of a secondary coat of powder coat. The answer that Smoke4320 gave me made sense but I tried it any way just out of curiosity.

I coated and cured the noses of my bullets with the bullets sitting on their bases. Then I turned the bullets around and coated the bases with the bullets sitting on their noses. I was afraid that the electrical charge might not make it through the initial powder coat but, it seemed to work just fine.

The only down side was the extra time it took and when I pulled the cured bullets off of the tray, the thin section around the rim of the hollow point mouths tended to pull off of the bullets in some cases.

HollowPoint

[prs]

I am more than happy with the blue! That is my preferred color. I plan to start spraying at some point so that should solve any of my shortcomings.

I tried a latex glove on my second coating and I think that may be what I use from now on. It doesn't completely remove the powder like pliers.

Good to know that I can still load them if they have voids.

Ha! Danged Kentuck blue anyways. Hey Smoke, next time he orders send him that nice North Carolina blue instead. lol

Kidding aside, try NITRILE gloves instead of latex. Get the gloved fingers well powdered with the paint and when you pick-up the boolits the gloves will fill in the voids almost every time.

prs

[Beagle333]

Hollowpoint.... have you tried putting the HP boolits on nails or screws that are either driven through or glued to the base, then push some foil down over them to give conductivity to each? I have seen nice complete coats that way with only one spraying/baking.

[Smoke4320]

"The only down side was the extra time it took and when I pulled the cured bullets off of the tray, the thin section around the rim of the hollow point mouths tended to pull off of the bullets in some cases."
Coat the liner with pam spray and the noses will not stick . or just put down a new layer of non stick foil

[HollowPoint]

114332
Hollowpoint.... have you tried putting the HP boolits on nails or screws that are either driven through or glued to the base, then push some foil down over them to give conductivity to each? I have seen nice complete coats that way with only one spraying/baking.


I'm in the process of buying the metal to make up a jig to do just what you've mentioned. I just have to draw it up in my CAD software and then convert it to G-Code. It shouldn't take that long. In fact it probably takes longer to drive down and buy the metal.

That's a good idea about the Pam cooking spray. I wish I'd thought of that before I did those bullets. I did use some mold-release spray but, that didn't seem to work as I'd hoped. They still came out pretty good and the targets I shoot at don't really care what my bullets look like. For some reason I just like them to look good.

I did get a chance this morning to go down and buy some white and black harbor freight powder. I mixed a little of both colors together and did a small number of Boat-Tailed-Spitzer cast bullets. They turned out excellent. They had a kind of gun-metal finish to them when I was done. The bullets were actually cast from one of the NOE 198 grain 311365 molds. I re-shaped the Gas-Check shank into a Boat-Tail by sticking the tail end into a pencil sharpener.

Why a Boat-Tail??? I've read on various posts that more than just a few guys are skipping the use of Gas-Checks all together as well as the repeated mention of "No Leading" and slightly higher velocities that can be reached with a Powder Coat applied. This tells me that getting a Boat-Tailed cast bullet without a Gas-Check to work may well be within the realm of possibility. The only way to find out is to try a few.

This time around I used some thin copper wire to suspend them from a wire frame. The thin copper wire was wrapped within one of the lube-grooves of each bullet. For as thin as that wire was, it conducted the electrical charge real well.

If I get a chance, I'll try to make it to the shooting range next week some time. I'm anxious to see if these Powder Coated bullets will shoot or not; I mean, shoot accurately; and with no leading.

HollowPoint

[el34]

There is no actual current flowing in that wire so it can be as thin as you'd like as long as the boolit weight doesn't break it.

But if you get a spark, there's your current flow. I have no idea how much but I'll bet a hair-thin wire won't break.

[xacex]

Interesting idea on the boat tail HP. I may have to try that myself with the ASBB method, and different boolits to see what I get.

[1911KY]

Ha! Danged Kentuck blue anyways. Hey Smoke, next time he orders send him that nice North Carolina blue instead. lol

Kidding aside, try NITRILE gloves instead of latex. Get the gloved fingers well powdered with the paint and when you pick-up the boolits the gloves will fill in the voids almost every time.

prs

Haha...I like some powder blue as well! I am more of a Colts blue fan to be honest. College sports don't overly interest me like most in my state!

I will try the Nitrile gloves and the powder on the fingers before. Thanks.

[HollowPoint]

Interesting idea on the boat tail HP. I may have to try that myself with the ASBB method, and different boolits to see what I get.


I don't really know if it will work or not but, it seems plausible. A while back I put alot of time and effort into designing and making myself a set of Boat-Tailed Gas-Check dies that I used with success on a couple of modified 30 caliber bullet molds.

If these Powder Coated Boat-Tails do indeed work, it will make all of my previous work obsolete or sure. Why make Gas-Checks if you don't really need them. For that matter, if we can now get our Powder Coated cast bullets to shoot accurately at 2200-2400 FPS or more, why not switch to the higher ballistic coefficient that Boat-Tailed bullets provide?

The phenomenon of "Hydro-Static-Shock" kicks in at about 2200 FPS. In my mind, this means that a Boat-Tailed cast bullet with a muzzle velocity of 2400 FPS or above should still retain the "Hydro-Static-Shock" value to just beyond 100 yards or so.

Right now the only down side to the Boat-Tails I'll be testing is the manner in which I made them. If I were to do a hardcore scrutinizing of their concentricity, I'm pretty sure it would be less than perfect. Before I put a whole lot of work into them, I want to make sure that this first batch of less than perfect Boat-Tailed bullets will fly true; with no key-holing; and no leading; and some semblance of accuracy.

I plan to start slow and work my way up to the highest velocities that deliver the best accuracy.

HollowPoint

[RP]

Food for thought the alloy of the bullet for a non GC lets say is not lino hard the faster you push it the more the base is said to deform causing poor groups. From what I have read so a plain base with the same alloy of a GC bullet would not hold up to the increase pressure of pushing them faster. I myself have not tested this but kind of makes sense. Based off of that I casted some for my 300 BO out of pure lead but with my time limits have not been able to do any testing to see if the flight is effected. Like I said food for thought not a fact as far as I know.

[1911KY]

The 2 coats of blue ended up making some good looking bullets!

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140825_235916_zpsagivjurw.jpg

[AKholicBubba]

I've gotten good at pc what I cast. I really wish i could find a cheaper hollow point mould