ideas for my 9.3x62 load

[samwithacolt]

I'm trying to get a decent group at 200 yds with my 9.3x62 husky.
I can get 2-3" at 100 yds, but I'm getting 6-8" at 200.
I have tried R15 and H4895 from 46 gr to 54, or 2000 to 2400 fps.
Tried 50 gr Varget this morning, got a 10" vertical string.
Boolit is NOE mold,sized .368, weighs 295 gr, gas checked, 2-1 COWW-SOWW. Lee factory crimp.
At around 52 gr H4895 I get maybe 6", with no vertical or horizontal bias.
What else can I try? I'm way off the lands, but unless I leave the lube groove exposed I can't go longer.
(I'm in Alberta, so for the 'mericans just think heavy boolits in the .35 Whelen!)
Your thoughts?

[Yodogsandman]

I assume you are heat treating at those velocities. I think you already know, using the your best load at 200 yards, play with your overall length. Maybe try some different primers or a different lube. Your probably just one little tweak away from a happy, happy, happy load.

[deepwater]

The twist rate will have a bearing on the ideal bullet weight. Sometimes, if the group opens up at longer distances, the bullet may be too heavy for the slower twist rate. Try a lighter bullet. (& vice versa)

deepwater

[samwithacolt]

Thanks guys, lube is 1/2 allox and half dragon lube stick(fairly hard). I can try loading to max mag length, but I only have the one mold and it was'nt cheap, so a lighter boolit is'nt an option right now.

[nanuk]

ROT for the Husqvarna is around 1/14 IIRC

should be lots fast enough for your boolit.

you have some 'speriment'n to do

[35 shooter]

# 1 on heat treating. i couldn't get over 1800 fps in my whelen without it. Might try a softer lube too, like Ben's Red, it worked wonders in my rifle, as it sheds quickly and evenly. How many lube grooves does your boolit have? I like to seat the boolit to at least contact the lands even if i have to leave one groove unlubed.

Okay... just looked on the noe site and it looks like only the one lube groove, so i guess seating out is a no go.

[dh2]

For my 98 Mauser in 9.3mm X 92mm Mauser I am using a boolit cast with a Accurate mould 37-285C casting with #2 Lyman pushing it with 39.0 Gr. of H4985 in PPU brass only crossing the chronograph at 1740 FPS but getting one inch groups at one hundred yards with out any problem. recoil is very mild,
I have tried loading Hornady 9.3mm 286g. jacketed bullets with Varget and got a four inch group at one hundred yards I was not happy with it.
I will send a PM

[Larry Gibson]

Your alloy is way too soft for what you want to do (2000 - 2400 fps). Add 2% tin to the COWWs before adding the SOWW. cast at 725 degrees. Adjust your casting tempo so the bullets don't get frosty. Water quench the bullets right out of the mould very quickly to harden. Let age 48 hours before sizing, GCing or lubing. You might also consider a slower burning powder such as RL19, one of the 4350s or H4831SC.

Larry Gibson

[samwithacolt]

I have some RL19, and I'm running low on boolits anyway. I'll make up some harder ones.

[samwithacolt]

If I want a harder boolit, can I reduce(3/1) or eliminate the SOWW? How about COWW and tin?

[35 shooter]

If I want a harder boolit, can I reduce(3/1) or eliminate the SOWW? How about COWW and tin?

I'd go with what Larry Gibson suggested in that regard, although i've had great results with straight ww heat treated for accuracy. 465* for 1 hour and water dropped @ 27 bhn.

[samwithacolt]

Update-
I cast almost 100 boolits, out of 2-1 COWW/SOWW and 2% tin from lead free sodder. Cast at 750 and water dropped. Culled out anything blemished or under/overweight.
Gas checked them without paying enough attention, so the gas checks are'nt on straight and the have a burr under them. Seems the harder lead makes them harder to seat. I heated a few checks till they went blue and then quenched them, those seemed to seat better(seat best going backwards through the die). Might have to toss GC'd boolits back in the pot and start over. They do seem significantly harder.

[samwithacolt]

Resurecting this, if anyone cares. I realised that I had serious bedding issues, so I did a hillbilly bootpolish/JB weld bedding job and my Husky is now shooting like a different gun! Also beagled the mold so the nose riding portion fills the groove better.
Getting 2" groups at 100 yds, doing 2200fps with a 9.3mm NOE 300gr COWW boolit. Heading for mooses on thursday.

[Yodogsandman]

Good luck! Bring along a camera, show some photos.

[samwithacolt]

So I did'nt like that crappy synthetic stock and I managed to pick up a nice wood one for $70.
Shot my 1st group this afternoon. 5 shots into about 4" at 80 yds, not impressive at all. So I jammed a piece of cardboard between the barrel and the forend, next 5 shots went into about 1 1/4"!
So I need to build in some forend pressure, but I'm very pleased. If anyone wants that piece of cardboard, I'll sell it for $100 shipped!

[Yodogsandman]

You might want to keep that piece of cardboard. Use it to create the right amount of space between the barrel and forearm for a spot of Acraglas or equivalent. It'll make a pillar for the barrel to rest on with the right amount of upward pressure.

[35 shooter]

Sounds like you've got a good load going once the stock issues are worked out.
I worked up a great load for my 35 whelen with imr 4350 with a 280 gr. rn noe 358009 clone boolit.
I started at 48 gr. in the whelen and worked up to 54 gr. for the best load @ 2200 fps. plus with heat treated ww.
Not sure how well that relates to the case capacity of your 9.3 though.

Using slower powders and coming close to case fill has worked best in the whelen for me so far with cast.

Congrats on your load...sounds like that rifle is going to be a shooter.

[samwithacolt]

Case capacity would be similar, as would the velocity. I'd like to try the 4350 too if I get around to it, but most people point to RL 15 as powder of choice for the 9.3x62.

[35 shooter]

I picked up some imr4831 the other day to try in my new .308 with cast as i heard good things about it in that cal. with a 311299 boolit (202 gr.)
Guess i'll try it in the whelen too just to see.

Yeah, i've read good things about the rl15 you mentioned in the whelen too. I started to try some years ago in it for jacketed, but h4895 worked so well for that i just stuck with it. It worked good for cast too in a few loads, but the imr4350 proved best in my rifle for cast and i don't shoot jacketed anymore anyway.

I tried some aa4350 in my whelen recently and while it did pretty good, the imr is much better in mine.
My brother's h&r whelen likes the aa4350 best. Btw, h4350 is a dog in my whelen...strange how one rifle can prefer one brand of a certain powder over another.
I guess it comes down to the different coatings on them which can affect burn rate a bit?

I'll watch your progress from the sidelines and if the 4831 does any good in the whelen, i'll let you know.

[Yodogsandman]

Check out the NOE forums under "Range Reports", "NOE 368-280 initial report". Encouraging test results are shown using AA4350 and AA3100 fired in a 9.3x62.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

sam with a colt, after you did the stock work and had it shooting good, did you still need to heat treat your boolits? I am wondering, because I am going to be using 3.5/3.5/.5%copper and am going to be shooting at 2000-2300fps, and hunting. so I think heat treating would ruin the chances of expansion, besides I have that copper to make it tougher, which I think will help when it comes to gripping the grooves. oh yeah, this is a 9.3X62 and shooting the accurate 285C and 250B.Thanks -Travis