Pulling Bullets

[Marc2]

That chore has to be the worst. What is the best type of bullet puller? Is the impact method the fastest? Anybody try the Plier or Press Mounted system? Or is there another devise I've missed that will speed up the process? Have quite a stash of 45 ACP, 40 SW and 38 Special rejects that I need to pull. They are all cast bullets. I dont mind damaging the bullets. I'll just melt them back down. I have an impact puller but its like loading for the Steel Challange with a Lee Loader.

Marc

[garandsrus]

Marc,

The collet type pullers work great with jacketed bullets. I have never tried them with cast... If you are willing to re-melt what you pull, then the pliers/wire cutters on the top of the press should be really quick.

The impact puller is about your only choice when you want to get wad cutters out :)

John

[4t5]

I have a RCBS collet type puller that works great on rifle rounds. I have never tried it on handgun bullets, but would assume equally good performance. Midway is a good source.

I threw out the old hammer a long time ago!

[danski26]

Speed and ok to damage boolit.......pliers or side cutters on top of your press.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

This subject came up once before, and I'll offer the same advice I did before.

I've got both inertia and collet type pullers, which I use for jacketed bullets. For cast bullets, I prefer to pull them with end nippers, as this is the fastest.
I do this by installing the proper shell holder in a press with no die, and raising the cartridge so the bullet protrudes above the press frame, grasp it with the nippers right at the case mouth, and lower the ram. The bullet pulls out with almost no damage, and the powder charge isn't spilled. I've had to throw away very few bullets, the slight marks are almost completely hidden when they're crimped back in.
The only cartridges that will not work, are ones too short to protrude above the frame, and they can be done with extended shell holders.

The type of end nipper is important, it has to be the old farrier-style, not the shoemaker-type mostly seen. I've shown three in the photo below, the short red one in the center is the old one I've been using for many years to pull bullets. The one on the left is a new Diamond brand available in hardware and farm supply stores. The one on the right, is a modern Craftsman of the type that is not able to grasp the bullet, save it for pulling nails and cotter pins.
Morgan

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1800.jpg

[wheelgunner]

Pure genious Morgan, I've got over 1000 to pull and have put it off for years. Most are .45 long colt given to me of unknown lineage and I don't trust to shoot em, but sure want the hard to come by brass. Thanks for a very helpful post!

[nicholst55]

I've pulled cast rifle bullets with the RCBS collet puller; only problem is it leaves the gas checks seated in the case neck. I suppose an inertia-style puller might get that out. I shot a couple out - NOT something I'd recommend.

[454PB]

Morgan's method works great, but be aware that the nippers can mar or even damage the female threads on the top of the press. I use a Lee turret for this purpose, and have it marked so that it is the only hole used. No sense in marring multiple turrets.

[Marc2]

Thanks for the replies. Im going to give the plier techique a try. I too have a Lee Turret press with an extra three hole. Thanks for the tip.


Marc

[Morgan Astorbilt]

454PB, The nippers I'm using, don't touch the threads, they bear on the machined flat on the top of the press. All my single stage and turret presses are either cast iron or cast semi-steel.
I agree with you, that when first trying this, it would be wise to make sure they aren't pressing on the threads, especially if the press is an aluminum or zinc alloy.
As for damage, in the event that for any reason, the top portion of the thread is ever damaged, it can be returned to form by screwing a die in from the bottom, and out the top.
It's poor design not to have a bit of relief where the threads meet the top of the press frame anyway, and if mine did, I would provide this relief with a taper reamer. This is to assure that the die lock nut, bears on the frame flat, not the threads.
Morgan

[Tom-n8ies]

The RCBS Hammer type puller works prety fast if you use a shell holder instead of the universal collet that comes with the puller. I tried it after somone else posted it on another forum. Works great.

tom

[38 Super Auto]

The RCBS Hammer type puller works prety fast if you use a shell holder instead of the universal collet that comes with the puller.

I agree. Using a shellholder in the kinetic type bullet puller is easier and faster that the collet.

[rmb721]

I use the hammer type. I put a couple cotton balls in the bottom so the bullet doesn't get damaged. The gas check usually comes off a cast boolit.

I hammer on concrete floor. Doesn't work on wood bench.

Next time, I will try with a shellholder.

[Wicky]

Ye olde end nippers work well and you get to do more casting!!! I usually use a pair of surgical forceps to remove the gas check - push one side so the check turns 90 degrees and then grasp with forceps and pull. I also use the kinetic type with a peice of high density foam stuffed in the bottom to prevent damage but with cast boolits I return them to the pot and recast.

[MightyThor]

Here are pictures of the puller I use. You can get them from Royal Arms Gunstocks In Great Falls Montana. as you push a second bullet in, the first one is pushed through, The last bullet can be pulled through or left for later.
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa7S2kkF_NSS5J1IOQ1te668s4JQgzng30paP-30USHQUHXSBJywv95zFraiqG0kQGA
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4S5NNUhHMiarYB7BKMGCU-gY2VHK0WkU36PrueGaayNqgAyx_zebsGVdNd-PAnzeg
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4DPcC1dXEqY5elJEOP1CtAl4MJFw9haBCjWfr wrEU7w-pW9lwoS2cp82s7RnSvQrg

[454PB]

Hey!, you know Jerry! He sold me one of those about 15 years ago, and it works great for jacketed, but I've never been able to pull a cast boolit with it.

Morgan, I learned of the nippers marking the top of the press while using them on my RCBS Rockchucker, that's why I started using the Lee Classic Turret.

I've owned probably 3 or 4 inertia bullet pullers, and ruined them all trying to pull cast boolits in revolver cartridges. Not only that, it usually ruins the brass to boot. In the bigger magnums, any time you can pull the boolit with an inertia puller...you have a problem with neck tension and crimp.

[joatmon]

Mighty Thor, what in the world brand of press is that? I NEVER seen one that holey!!
Thanks Aaron

[MightyThor]

Hey!, you know Jerry! He sold me one of those about 15 years ago, and it works great for jacketed, but I've never been able to pull a cast boolit with it.

I have pulled lead, but you won't reuse them, just put em back in the pot and start again.:-D

[MightyThor]

Mighty Thor, what in the world brand of press is that? I NEVER seen one that holey!!
Thanks Aaron

That is a Hollywood. see them here.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=25365

[357maximum]

Everytime I see a pic of one of them monsters...I somehow feel inadequate[smilie=1:

[Swagerman]

Its gotta be a Hollywood press, boy, look at that shell holder station...the round disk holds four different shell holders.

Wonder what one of those beast would cost...love to have one.

Jim

[MT Gianni]

Thor, are these caliber specific or do they fit a range of diameters? Gianni

[MightyThor]

Hate to hijack this thread, will post answer on the Hollywood thread.

[jlchucker]

I use an RCBS collet-type bullet puller--the kind that threads into a loading press. No damages to cases or bullets--provided that the bullet in question is of the jacketed variety. On the other hand, cast bullets will slip right out of the collet. To pull a cast bullet, I've found that the technique described by other posters who are using nippers and a loading press is the way to go--only when I had to do this once, I used a pair of vise grips, instead of nippers, in the same fashion. You'll need to melt the pulled bullets down and recast them, though.

[MightyThor]

Thor, are these caliber specific or do they fit a range of diameters? Gianni

The bullet puller will pull virtually any caliber bullet, but I believe if you want to pull little bullets, 17 etc you need to let Gerry know because he started making them just a little different to grip the really small stuff.

[TAWILDCATT]

try this:run the shell into full length sizer to end of bullet.then use puller[nips]
I use Hornady lever puller for jacket and hammer for cast.I will try nipper next time.----:coffee:----[smilie=1:---:Fire:

[lmcollins]

Guys: I have both a hammer type puller, and an RCBS collet puller. If you try and pull jacketed loads that have been loaded for a long time watchout for COLD WELD!

Cold weld is the elecroletic action between two dissimilar metals. If the collet won't grip them hard enough to let you pull your bullets without slipping off you might need to use your seatiing die to seat the bullet just a touch deeper to break the cold weld loose.

I had to do this with some 20 year old Nosler Partion bullets seatred in the 7mm RM. You could hear and feel the "pop" as the cold weld broake loose. After that they pulled easily.

[azcoyhunter]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

[Bullshop Junior]

Wire stripers work good. Take your die out, run the cartridge up in the press with the shell holder, and then use the wire stripers/Cripers to grabe the bullet, and then pull the handle up. Pulls the bullet out well with little damege.
BIC/BS Jr.

[Yance]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

Clint;

Swing by the local auto parts and check out their "O" ring selection. That's the "rubber bands" they use. Sorry, I don't have a pack to tell you the size but it should be something like 5/8"X1/2"X1/16". 1"X7/8"X1" works for Lyman 450 piston seals.

[Andy_P]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

Throw away the collet that came with the hammer and just use a shellholder.

[MtJerry]

Throw away the collet that came with the hammer and just use a shellholder.



NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

[carpetman]

I got my RCBS collet type puller in 1967 and the lock ring did not come with an allen type set screw,thus the body would turn inside the nut and it didnt work so well. Don't know if RCBS has corrected this,but I corrected mine by replacing the nut with one with the locking device and it now works like a champ on jacketed bullets. Doesnt do too well on cast, so I remove the die run the bullet up and grab on with vise grips as has been described and remelt the bullet as it will be ruined. The kinetic puller is a poor excuse for dumbells if you are trying to develop your body and other than exercise I dont have any use for them.

[Andy_P]

Well I endured about 25 posts of "Thank God you're ok", and finally came to your
"research".

Please tell me how the use of the shellholder put that massive jagged indentation in the primer. Fact is you don't know and never will and can't admit that the use of the shellholder did not cause, nor contribute to the accident.

I'm guessing that you carelessly somehow got a large piece of debris wedged against the primer. I can assure you that I will not.

Anyways, now you've created another myth with all kinds of drama.

If I can use a shellholder to force a bullet into place over a full charge of powder and a live primer, then I can use the same shellholder to remove the bullet.

Thanks, but I'll continue using shellholders.



NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

[MT Gianni]

Andy, The opinion on no shell holders for pullers seems to come into effect with multiple hits, perhaps a high primer and the cartridge moving to center the primer over the edge of the shell holder. I think it is a matter of caution and common sense. Gianni

[Andy_P]

Gianni,

Yes, I've seen a number of threads on the subject, all of which seem to point back to the same incident (MtJerry's). If a high primer is a possible cause (and I sincerely doubt it was in this case or could be), then it's carelessness that's to blame and not the use of a shellholder. If the primer is properly seated then I see no possible way that the shellholder could set it off. The pictures provided clearly show a deep jagged indentation in the primer. I'd love to see an explanation of how the smooth surfaces of the shellholder caused that.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/MtJerry/brass.jpg

This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

[afish4570]

I use the hammer type. I put a couple cotton balls in the bottom so the bullet doesn't get damaged. The gas check usually comes off a cast boolit.

I hammer on concrete floor. Doesn't work on wood bench.

Next time, I will try with a shellholder.

The 2x4 trick gives you a hard surface to strike with your inertia bullet puller on. A friend of mine called me up years ago and said his production press made XXXXnumber in an hour....problem was he ran out of powder somewhere in the run and had to pull 70 plus rounds...Moral to story it make good or bad loads real fast. Alot slower to pull the bad ones. Since then he added the primer warning alarm and powder alarm or what ever its called. afish4570

[carpetman]

For sure using end grain (2X4 example sited) will give you a firmer area to strike and increase effectiveness. I use a section of about 7" diameter mesquite and with it's density I have a plenty firm area-----but still consider the hammer type puller as useless except for exercise.

[MtJerry]

Well I endured about 25 posts of "Thank God you're ok", and finally came to your
"research".

Please tell me how the use of the shellholder put that massive jagged indentation in the primer. Fact is you don't know and never will and can't admit that the use of the shellholder did not cause, nor contribute to the accident.

I'm guessing that you carelessly somehow got a large piece of debris wedged against the primer. I can assure you that I will not.

Anyways, now you've created another myth with all kinds of drama.

If I can use a shellholder to force a bullet into place over a full charge of powder and a live primer, then I can use the same shellholder to remove the bullet.

Thanks, but I'll continue using shellholders.

You are certainly entitled to your evaluation of the events I went thru. Please feel free to continue using your shellholder to pull bullets.

I simply posted this as a warning to others of what is possible when not using the correct equipment.

As a thought, rebounding blows of a case on a hard surface can cause primers to back out (inetia, loose primer pockets, etc). If there is something in it's way when it happens ... well I guess you'll just have to see for yourself.

Jerry

[1hole]

"The pictures provided clearly show a deep jagged indentation in the primer. I'd love to see an explanation of how the smooth surfaces of the shellholder caused that. " "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it."

Roger that, my friend. There is NO way a shell holder, with an empty, drilled out center for priming could have put that dent in the cap, something else caused it. The only significant impact when using those pullers correctly is straight down, away from the head/primer end of the case. It looks like the puller was hammered upside down onto a pile of scrap metal parts!

The photo and explaination shows a situation in which 2 + 2 has been made to equal 5, or more, and that's not possible.

[MtJerry]

I am certainly open to other theories of the cause of this incident ... but I was using it correctly as described in the instructions and had a detonation on the third blow after pulling about 100 rounds.

The only change to the device was the use of an RCBS Shellholder and not the collet provided with the tool.


It looks like the puller was hammered upside down onto a pile of scrap metal parts!

The photo and explaination shows a situation in which 2 + 2 has been made to equal 5, or more, and that's not possible.


This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

I am only trying to help others here. Please keep your rude remarks to yourself.

[Andy_P]

I'm didn't intend to offend, and don't think that that my responses have been any more provocative than what started this:


NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

You make a claim that you back up with "detective work" and I dispute it as faulty. When I said:


This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

I described exactly your logic . It seems certain that the round went off because the primer was deeply indented and that cannot be caused by a (clean) shellholder. No-one else has experienced the same thing, but based on your single claim, the masses will sheepishly accept as fact what you say and into reloading folklore it goes.

I thought I should try to prevent that - I was only trying to help as well.

[MtJerry]

Thank you for that Andy.

I apologise if my original response was started so dramatically that it sounded offensive. That incident had a dramatic effect on me as I almost injured myself and my children.

I would LOVE to know what happened and how to prevent it in the future.

There are a lot of details I have thought about that I have never had a chance to put into writing.

1. As I stated above, loose primer pockets can give opportunity for primers to move ... up or down. If up, then there is a very real chance they are triggered by the shell holder as they can and do have room to move inside them. If down (think about using too much pressure to seat a primer) then the anvil of the primer is forced (quickly I'd think give the blows of the puller) against the primer compound and detonation occurs.

I'd more likely suspect that the primer moved up rather than down. With a shellholder, the round has room to move up and down in the shellholder and the repeated blows could give enough force for inertia to move the primer out. With the supplied collet the round is squeezed against the sides of the case and cannot move up or down.

2. Dented primer ... when the round went off, it was unsupported (no chamber) and the primer "backed out." Imagine a low pressure round such as a snake load that does not have the flash hole drilled out.

3. Movement of the round in the shellholder. Take a round, set into a shellholder, seat it as you do in the puller. Snug up the cap and give it a shake. You will hear the shell rattle. There is room for it to move in the shellholder and if a high primer situation occurs, then there is a real possiblity for detonation of the round.

Which of these happened?? I dunno ... I do know that if this were to happen to someone else and I had a chance to warn them and didn't, well .... that would bug me.

I mean no ill will towards you or anyone with the post. I just don't want anyone to get hurt.

Sorry for the drift of this thread.

[Andy_P]

It's cool Jerry. I'll take my medicine and own up to most of the ill tone. A very peculiar event - thanks for sharing it.

[MightyThor]

You know, if using the shell holder was such a good Idea, how come no one at RCBS or any of the other manufactures thought of it? From a marketing standpoint it would seem to be brilliant cause you can sell more shell holders that way. Just me, but I don't see why anyone would want to put something on, near, over or close to the primer of a loaded round and then bang stuff repeatedly. I note that with the proper collet in place it would be impossible for that collet to have caused a round to go off. With a shell holder substituted you have introduced a foreign body into the design, allowed movement where none existed before and provided a solid platform for something to rest against which might in turn contact the primer.

I am sure that everyone in this forum is right, you can probably beat on one of these things 100,000 times without an incident. You can also be the most carefull person in the world, and that is great, but none of us should ever take the position that "it can't happen to me" cause that kind of thinking can result in what many of us refer to as "a negligent discharge".
In the words of Phil Esterhouse "lets be careful out there!"

[DLCTEX]

Before I got bullet pullers I made do occasionally with a thread tap wrench. Push the bullet through the top of the press and clamp the bullet in the three jaws of the wrench and tighten. Then lower the ram, pulling the bullet. It does leave marks on the bullet, but some are slight, and the brass, primer, and powder are salvaged. DALE

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Just bumping this up. There is another thread started that asks questions answered here.
Morgan