another thread needing help with Mihec molds

[kbstenberg]

I am having a hard time TRYING to make the flat pointed bullets drop with Mihecs Cramer molds. I have his 432423, 503, 432-310. All 3 will drop the HP's very easy. But when I put the flat point pin into the mold it just doesn't want to release the bullets. Yes I know that I could cast harder HP to act as a flat point. But I don't want that.
I don't use any kind of mold release product. I don't smoke my molds. I do use BP on the HP pin shanks. All my bullets are cast hot enough not to get wrinkles. My alloy is usually 50% COWW/50% soft, or 20to1. I have a PID so my pot is always between 700 and 715 deg.
I was just thinking I haven't use a Qtip to check for burrs on the edges of the molds. Which I will do today. I figured if the bullets released so easy with HP pins there wouldn't be any burrs in the cavities.
I do know that the HP pins do help in pulling the bullet out of the mold. Whereas the flat point doesn't aid in the release. I have tried poshing out on the flat pin but that doesn't help. Kevin

[HATCH]

I have only cast HPs with my Mihec mold.

The pins pull the boolits out of the cavities. I would polish the mold slightly

Can I ask you why you want to cast FP instead of HP?

[Nrut]

My problems were with Mihec rifle molds that have one deep square lube groove..
If your molds have deep square lube grooves that is most likely your problem..
I quit buying Mihec molds and cancelled several orders for that reason..

I have over 80 molds and only one other mold gives me release fits and that is the first Loverin design (311047) by NOE..
No problems per say with later NOE Loverin designs..

[tomme boy]

I have had 4 of the HP molds from him and they ALL do this. They work OK with the HP pins in the mold, but if you want a flat point, forget it. Unless you want to beat the heck out of it. Nrut, I had the same rifle mold from Mihec and it was the biggest piece of you know what. Part of the reason is the person that designed it made it with the 90* lube groove.

[longbow]

I have to think the problems you are having with Mihec moulds is not the mould as much as the boolit designs. I have 3 Mihec Cramer moulds and all work well casting HP or FP for me.

I will certainly agree on the 90 degree lube groove comment or even lube grooves with shallow angles. Not sure of the logic of using 90 degree or shallow angles but to me there should be steep angles or radiused lube grooves to assist in release. If lube capacity is an issue then a slightly deeper lube or wider lube groove would solve that.

I like my Mihec moulds. YMMV

Longbow

[dragon813gt]

That rifle mold is the only one I've ever gotten rid of. It's a design flaw and not a mold problem. I have the same one in HP form and it works great. I don't bother casting HPs w/ my MP molds for the most part because I've had more issues this way. If the bullets aren't releasing the mold isn't hot enough. They do have a very narrow operational range. But once you're in it they rain bullets for hours on end. I've also found that smaller bullets are more of a problem because they don't keep the mold heated up as easily. At last count I think I had thirteen MP molds so I've gone through all the problems across a broad range of bullet designs. Once you get it working make sure you take notes for alloy temp, hot plate setting and cadence. Everyone of the molds I have is different in this respect.

[45 2.1]

I have had 4 of the HP molds from him and they ALL do this. They work OK with the HP pins in the mold, but if you want a flat point, forget it. Unless you want to beat the heck out of it. Nrut, I had the same rifle mold from Mihec and it was the biggest piece of you know what. Part of the reason is the person that designed it made it with the 90* lube groove.

All of those molds have a 15 degree draft angle (30 degree inclusive angle as spec'd). BRP used the same when he made some of the same design. I and many others have NO trouble when casting that mold or solids of the bigger calibers from either BRP or MP molds. Had you of answered the PM I sent you when you first complained, it could have been solved easily... it still can for that matter.

[tomme boy]

Don't ever remember getting a PM from you. This is the SIL non HP mold. Like I said, about the HP versions. I have ran them up in temp with the blank pins and all of them will not drop freely unless you beat them. With the HP pins in them they work OK.

1) 270 RCBS 45 colt HP
2) 45 200gr HP
3) 45 200gr non-hp
5) 180gr 30 cal SIL non hp
6) 452374 hp all pins
7) 9mm 125gr HP all pins This works good with the round pins. Others not so good.

[45 2.1]

Don't ever remember getting a PM from you. This is the SIL non HP mold. Like I said, about the HP versions. I have ran them up in temp with the blank pins and all of them will not drop freely unless you beat them. With the HP pins in them they work OK.

1) 270 RCBS 45 colt HP
2) 45 200gr HP
3) 45 200gr non-hp
5) 180gr 30 cal SIL non hp
6) 452374 hp all pins
7) 9mm 125gr HP all pins This works good with the round pins. Others not so good.


I have all of those. #1, #2 & 3 are not my design, but they work when used correctly. If you want to know how, then PM me or we can talk on the phone some night, especially about #5 above.

[dkf]

I have the 503, 310 and .44 HBWC. They all drop good regardless of pins, even the flat pins. The 310 seems to be the smoothest dropper. They don't jump out of the mold but a light tap or two drops any hangers. I do run my alloy hotter and I probably run my mold hotter than you are too. I have found they like some heat to cast well.

[dragon813gt]

1) 270 RCBS 45 colt HP
2) 45 200gr HP
3) 45 200gr non-hp
5) 180gr 30 cal SIL non hp
6) 452374 hp all pins
7) 9mm 125gr HP all pins This works good with the round pins. Others not so good.

I have #2, 3, 5, 6, 7. Well I sold #5 because I have the HP version and got tired of the third cavity hanging up. #3 is by far the easiest mold to use that I own. It's perfect bullets by the ammo can when I break it out. You are doing something wrong if you have problems across the board w/ his molds. W/ the amount he sells you would see lots of complaints if the majority couldn't get them to cast well. The solution is simple, heat. Especially w/ that 9mm mold. I had a lot of culls from that one and it took a good five sessions for it to break in. I don't mind spending the time to get them up and running. I'd rather play w/ temp and cadence then have to manually work on a Lee mold that's out of spec.

[DeanWinchester]

I borrowed a 170g .30 cal four cavity brass mold for a time. Made great boolits. Was a miserable sucker to get boolits to fall free. I agree, the square grooves are the fly in the ointment with Mihec.

[tomme boy]

#3 would work if I ran a soft alloy. If I ran it with an alloy that was harder than 15 it would not release. At the time I had a 45 colt carbine and I ran them around 1500 fps and it wanted them at least 15 for the hardness. The 45acp did not care. But to make things simple, I just used a harder alloy.

I sold it to someone hear but can't remember who. The HP versions work OK, just the FP an solids are the ones that give me a pain. Iron and aluminum are easy. I hate LEE molds, but I will buy one of them before I buy a solid version in brass again.

[mold maker]

Look very closely with a magnifying glass, to make sure the front edge of the cavity, or grooves, haven't tined. Other than that, I've had absolutely no problem with well over a doz of his molds.
Sorry you're disappointed.
Mine cast to spec, round, and pretty. I couldn't ask for better.

[Beagle333]

I have a problem with MiHec molds too...... he don't make em fast enough! ;)

But the ones that I do have, cast really really well. The only one that I have trouble with at all..... is this one:
And you can see why.... lookit that long HP pin that I've gotta keep hot. :veryconfu
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44595&d=1337607134