How do I clean these molds?

[flyer1]

112398112399112400112401112402112406112407 I came across a deal that I could not pass up. I have never used lyman molds. Can some one tell me how to clean these up? They are 311359, 452374, 358459, 429215, 429244 4 cavity molds. The 429's are still oiled and in the wrapper. There is an ideal 2 cavity that the only number on it is 395. Any ideas what it is? It looks like a 358 cal. Also, any ideas what they are worth? Thanks.

[Mr Peabody]

I like a citrus cleaner called Awesome and a stiff toothbrush.

[flyer1]

Thanks for the reply. Where do you buy Awesome?

[texassako]

The 395 sounds like a Saeco mold number, not Lyman or Ideal unless it is a round ball.

[knifemaker]

If the tooth brush does not work. You can buy at a hardware store a small cleaning brush that has brass bristles that will be more abrasive then a nylon tooth brush, but will not scratch the steel. Do not use any brush with steel bristles as that may damage the steel surface of the mold.

[flyer1]

The brass brush is a great idea. The 395 2 cavity mold is the top right picture. Thanks for the replies.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

The molds that you acquired are well known and it was a great deal. Whichever molds have oil and or grease can be effectively cleaned with a good solvent like acetone and a bristle brush (in a well ventilated place) and/or soaked in it if needed. Some folks use lacquer thinner which works well too. Sometimes two such treatments are needed. Be sure and wipe the molds dry afterward and/or use a hair dryer to finish the job...then pre-heat before casting. If not used right after the cleaning store the molds in a prescribed manner to avoid rusting. There are several other methods (rituals) used by others that work like boiling the molds in Oakite or putting them in the dishwasher etc, but its your call. I have always gone the solvent route and never had a problem; all my molds are iron (Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, H&G) and I store them in oil or Clenzoil again after use. LLS

[flyer1]

Thanks for the replies. This is great place, lots of help. I am very concerned about the ones with some rust on them. I am hoping they are still useable.

[MtGun44]

Small brass brushes and patience, a bit of Hoppes #9 and then
scrub with a solvent and toothbrush. Try not to remove the patina
finish, just the red surface rust. You do not want bare metal in an
old, used mold because the patina (kinda like bluing crossed with
the interior of a well seasoned cast iron skillet) is good for making
the boolits release easily, or at least it seems so. Used molds seem
to drop boolits best once they have this patina built up.

Bill

[flyer1]

This is great info. Just what I was looking for. Thank you.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

One of the best methods/products to get rid of rust in molds (or anything) is called, "Evapo-rust". It is available thru a number of hardware outlets including Harbor Freight, Ace, Home Depot, several auto parts retailers, etc. You soak the object for a while and the rust is soon gone....no effect on the iron or steel at all. Comes in different size containers and is re-usable so you don't toss it when finished. LLS

[flyer1]

i will give evapo rust a try. thank you very much!

[longbow]

A word of advice. After cleaning especially if you use water based cleaner, oil the moulds or they will start to rust again. If you are casting right away then no need but oil them or store them with desiccant so they do not rust. I always oil my moulds after use. Contrary to what most people say, I have little to no trouble casting after simply wiping them down with a rag or paper towel then pre-heating and start casting. Even brass and aluminum moulds have steel pins and sprue plate that can rust.

Not sure about Evapo-Rust (haven't used it) but Naval Jelly or any phosphoric acid product will dissolve rust without harming the iron moulds. They will be particularly susceptible to rusting after though as any bluing is also removed. Again, oiling will preserve them and they will naturally heat blue again with use.

Longbow

[dromia]

I rub rust on moulds with a pencil and then use a rubber to take the graphite and rust off.

[MtGun44]

I'd avoid the rust removing chemicals if you can, they will remove the patina.
Sometimes this is necessary, but try what Dromia says and then move up to
brass brushes and cast with them. If necessary go to the chemical cleaners,
but frankly molds do not need to have purely pristine interior surfaces to
case great boolits.

Bill

[zuke]

Tumble in stainless media, 1/2 a block at a time

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy356/zuke_bucket/DSCF2697_zps11f9a29d.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy356/zuke_bucket/DSCF2696_zps3a3e643e.jpg

[flyer1]

I really like what the stainless did. I do not have stainless to tumble. i use corn cob media for my brass. I like the idea of starting slow with the pencil and eraser then moving up. I wonder if timbling in corn cob might be a way to start. I will go slow and take my time. Thanks for all of the ideas. This is a great place.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

You've been given a lot of advice...
The Saeco 4 cavity mold (shown in the 4th and 5th photos) looks the worst with what appears to be rust in the cavities. I know that's a Saeco ! What is the number on that one ?

If these were my molds, I'd skip the chemicals. I'd just clean them with a toothbrush and dishsoap and hot water...you may have to clean them twice...then cast with them right away and see how they drop.

Now that Saeco, after the toothbrush, dishsoap cleaning a couple times, I'd soak the mold with a penetrating oil, I like Kroil, but any penetrating will do, even WD40. Then I'd use a Q-tip and that oil to scrub the cavities of remove as much of the rust stain remaining. Clean again with with toothbrush and dishsoap. repeat the Kroil if necessary.
Then clean with toothbrush and dishsoap one last time and try casting and see how they drop.

if you are going to store these molds for a while (weeks), I'd coat them with Kroil or a good gun oil (NOT WD40). btw the way ATF is a good gun oil.

ANYWAY, I concur with MtGun44, try not to remove any existing patina.
Good Luck,
Jon

[country gent]

Be carefull around edges with the erasers and rubbing as its easy to lightlu radious the edges (a few thousadths on each edge doubles when mated). I would start with a light oil and cloth removing all the rust I could then wash in solvent with a toothbrush. let this evaporate and clean any reidues left with dish soap under a small trickle of running water to flush away anything removed. Reassemble and cast a few with each and see which mold needs what. Make sure sprue plates are properly adjusted and pins are seating properly. Used molds can be some trouble shooting at times but worth the effort. Check slugs carefully with a good michrometer for size and also roundness. Look for fins lines and rough areas.

[rintinglen]

just a word on prices--the 4 cavities are worth around 70 dollars each, more if they include handles. The two cavity mold is worth cerca 50 bucks. At least that is what I would expect to pay for them in this neck of the woods.

[Silver Hand]

They are junk, I will send you a prepaid flat rate postal box so I can dispose of that contaminated lead stuff properly.

Actually, Use a brass brush, use the tips of the wires wile rubbing. Let the brush do the work. Always use a softer metal than the one you are cleaning and things will work out fine. You can add solvents or some heat without the solvents. Play with it, I will bet they will cast a good boolit once done.
Silver Hand

[flyer1]

Wow! I have gotten great advice from everyone. This is such a great place. Am not at a point that I can being to clean them yet. Cant wait to start.

JonB, I have replied to your PM. Thanks everyone. I may think about selling one or two. Am thinking about a 10/22 for my son so we can go to an Apple seed shoot together.

[flyer1]

Silver Hand, I will keep you in mind if i get in over my head.

[flyer1]

rintinglen, thanks for the price check. I did just ok buying them. i was told they would cost about 700 new for all. A quick check on the intrenet seemed not to far off. Not much in stock it seems.

[ohland]

i will give evapo rust a try. thank you very much!

Evapo-Rust will remove ALL rust, which includes bluing. But using the molds will start giving a finish anyways. Having used Evapo-Rust a few times, it removes rust and leaves the base metal alone. After removing the item from Evapo-Rust, rinse in hot water and dry it with a cloth or towel.

The item has NO oil or bluing where the Evapo-Rust was, you need to either cast with it, or use Rust-Pruf, or put it in with VCI paper or crystals or that new surface will rust quite nicely.

Evapo-Rust is non-toxic, after you have used it a number of times and it has really slowed down, you can dispose of it without a HAZMAT suit....

[ryan28]

Another vote for Evapo-Rust. Works great, by far the easiest and safest way to clean rust off. Won't hurt a thing.

[bobby65]

I guess I will get started with mine now that I have all this great information thanks all

[MtGun44]

"Evapo-rust won't hurt a thing" - I am guessing it WILL remove the patina (blueing and such slight
build up from casting over time) which is a good surface to easily release boolits.

Please don't misunderstand - I get it that you can really do a great job and remove all the
rust and not hurt the underlying iron/steel. That is not the point when cleaning boolit
molds any more than it would be when cleaning a well-seasoned cast iron skillet.

No need to chemically clean off all the oxide and stuff - lay off the chemicals until you
try just some basic mechanical cleaning - THEN MOLD SOME BOOLITS, you will likely
find that the old mold drops them really nicely with the patina intact.

If not, try the chemical rust remover - they are wonderful products - FOR SOME
APPLICATIONS, and maybe not this one.

Bill