Entering Uncharted Waters

[Pirate69]

I have two 308 Winchester barrels I want to install. One is a Shilen barrel and the other a Brownell barrel. I think I will rent a reamer with a time limitation. I think I have the ability to slowly cut the finished chamber, by hand, while using a Go- Gauge. I do not have access to a lathe. I understand if you get into a hurry, you can over-cut the chamber and/or cut it off center. My intent is to set the barrels at a minimal headspace. I would appreciate any advice that you may have on this subject since this will be my first chambering. Also, comments on the available finishing reamers will be appreciated. Especially, the fixed verses live pilot reamers. How great is the risk of lands damage with a fixed verse a live pilot reamer? Would like to learn from others experiences before I make a mistake.

[plainsman456]

No matter what reamer you use go slow,use plenty of cutting oil and clean the chips out of the chamber/barrel often.

You can do it just go slow.

[DeanWinchester]

Removing metal is easy.

...putting it back........lol!

Go slow. Time spent is money saved. Better to take twice as long as really necessary and get it right.

[Mk42gunner]

I have rebarreled five or six rifles (all Mausers) with no lathe and solid pilot reamers. I have used both Clymer and Manson reamers, I had no problems with either brand.

You have heard the old saying "Measure twice, cut once?" Plan on measuring a lot more than twice.

Do not get in a hurry to remove the last few thousandths; that extra turn or two of the reamer before measuring is where you get in trouble.

Fix a way to hold the barrel solidly, hopefully with access at both ends. I clamped mine to my picnic table. This allowed me to measure and ream from the chamber end, while also allowing me to push a cleaning rod through from the muzzle to clear chips before checking depth.

I used an old two piece tap handle to turn the reamer.

Good luck,

Robert

[lancem]

As was said above, I just finished reaming the chamber on my third M1 using a pull through reamer, piece of cake. First time it was scary as heck, second time not bad, this third time you would have thought I'd done it before :)

[Pirate69]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Last question before I move forward. I read on one of the reamer rental sites that I should cast the bore to ensure that the rented reamer pilot is the correct size for the bore. Has anyone had an issue with an incorrect pilot size? I would expect that a Shilen barrel and a barrel sold by Brownell would have the correct bore dimensions. Should I be concerned enough to try to measure?

[WallyM3]

Even with a lathe, I go slowly...particularly sneaking up on the final few thou.

In ways, the Garand is easier than a Mauser to ream as it has its own gage (or indicator) installed. I approached my first pull-through job with some trepidation (received a short chambered H&R, neither the seller or the buyer knew it...fortunately I gage all newly arrived chambers on semi autos). In the event, it went as smoothly as I ever could have hoped.

[Mk42gunner]

I have chambered Adams & Bennett, Douglas and Shilen barrels and had no problems with the solid pilot fitting the bore. None were too large to fit, and didn't seem too small when I checked at the muzzle end.

A reamer with a changeable pilot bushing would be better in theory, but I wasn't trying to build benchrest guns.

One thing I forgot to mention is never turn the reamer backwards; it is supposed to be easy to roll the sharp edge off, then you have problems.

Robert

[Pirate69]

Thanks

[seaboltm]

I have done many by hand using rented reamers from 4D reamers. I have messed up a few barrels, but not many. The mistakes happened when I cut corners. I will say keeping the chips cleaned out is critical, especially when using your Go gauge. Even one little sliver of metal chips can fool you into thinking you need to cut more, when indeed you have already arrived. I spray the oil and chips out with carb cleaner followed by a generous blast of compressed air, then check head space. Once the bolt starts to drop, things will go fast. Like maybe all you need is 1 to 5 turns of the reamer fast. I usually go a bit beyond the go gauge. I have had problems when I stopped as soon as the Go gauge would just chamber, like finding out factory loads wont chamber without using my palm to knock the bolt into battery. Also, I have had problems with certain calibers and throat length. The 6.5x55 reamers I have used would not cut enough throat. SO, when I tried to chamber a cartridge the bullet would impact the lands before the bolt was fully closed. Mostly had this problem with European 6.5x55 ammo, but I also ran into the problem with a 257 Roberts reamer. The solution to that problem is to rent a throat reamer and carefully lengthen the throat. I lengthened the throats on my 6.5x55 Ackleys quite a bit so that I could seat bullets way out there, taking full advantage of the magazine length. Those cartridges look like cruise missiles!

[Pirate69]

Noting seaboltm's good advice above, I have a question on the pull-through reamer. With a pull through reamer and pressure from the bolt on the backside, do you have to remove the reamer from the chamber and clean the chips off like you have to do with a push reamer?

[lancem]

Noting seaboltm's good advice above, I have a question on the pull-through reamer. With a pull through reamer and pressure from the bolt on the backside, do you have to remove the reamer from the chamber and clean the chips off like you have to do with a push reamer?

Absolutely, the only difference between the two is one you are pushing and turning the reamer with the tool, the other you are turning the reamer but pushing on it with the bolt. BTW I mean gently pushing when I say pushing. So with a pull through it is more of a pain as to make sure you have cleared the chips out of the chamber you will have to remove the reamer and then reassemble it after you have flushed the chamber and the reamer.