10mmShooter
07-27-2014, 10:31 AM
Test parameters: Guns 8 3/8 Anaconda, 8 3/8 inch 686, 629 PC Hunter(8 3/38), and 629 PC Competitor(6 inch)
Brass Fed, RP, WW
Purpose of load is paper punching. Velocities 950-1150 fps range
Powder Alliant Green Dot and AA#5
Bullet: SWC in 255gr for .44 and 150g for .357
Chronographed using to two different Chronys
Gentlemen I just wanted to go over my experiences and see if you guys have had similar experiences. With taper vs roll crimping at target velocities, with AA#5 and Green Dot.
Back story recently I purchased a new Henry rifle in .44, which I had to buy a Saeco round nose mold for and since its a tube magazine I needed to roll crimp the bullets to prevent setback in the magazine. I used a moderate crimp for my target load of 6.8 grains of Green Dot, with Saeco 240gr round nose. This gave me a nice 1100 fps out of the rifle. SD was between 10-19 fps, and ES runs 30-40 fps.
So this got me thinking about taper vs roll crimp in my revolvers, because prior to purchasing the Henry all my .44/.357 caliber target loads were just taper crimped (my thoughts where to avoid over working the brass and shortening its life) also I always taper crimp just enough to remove the case mouth flare, and avoid any bullet deformation.
So my results using AA#5 7.5 grs in .357 brass, both moderately roll crimped vs taper crimped showed 1150 fps, and SD <20 and ES <40 fps
For all the .44 revolvers 6.8 grs of Green Dot roll crimped vs taper crimped showed 950 fps, SD <15 ES <30.
My conclusion is that using #5, and Green Dot at target velocities, 1150 fps for .357 and 950 fps for .44 . In my guns a good roll crimp vs a good taper crimp makes no difference in ES, or SD or velocity or on paper down range.
As with most things every ones experience my be different but at 25 yards for me, in my stated applications, roll crimping shows no benefits over taper crimping.(although it does work the brass more)
Also curious I have shot the stated loads for 20 years and never seen had any bullets break free and move out of the case under recoil with a taper crimp. This seems to be repeated over and over about revolver reloading, now granted my revolvers are large and heavy and loads are moderately light for calibers, and the gun weight absorbs lots of the recoil energy. Again with so many things I think each person applications are different.
Just a point of clarity, I'm referring to taper crimp vs roll crimp used in revolvers.....NOT the Henry rifle(crimp is the way to go due to the tube mag)
Brass Fed, RP, WW
Purpose of load is paper punching. Velocities 950-1150 fps range
Powder Alliant Green Dot and AA#5
Bullet: SWC in 255gr for .44 and 150g for .357
Chronographed using to two different Chronys
Gentlemen I just wanted to go over my experiences and see if you guys have had similar experiences. With taper vs roll crimping at target velocities, with AA#5 and Green Dot.
Back story recently I purchased a new Henry rifle in .44, which I had to buy a Saeco round nose mold for and since its a tube magazine I needed to roll crimp the bullets to prevent setback in the magazine. I used a moderate crimp for my target load of 6.8 grains of Green Dot, with Saeco 240gr round nose. This gave me a nice 1100 fps out of the rifle. SD was between 10-19 fps, and ES runs 30-40 fps.
So this got me thinking about taper vs roll crimp in my revolvers, because prior to purchasing the Henry all my .44/.357 caliber target loads were just taper crimped (my thoughts where to avoid over working the brass and shortening its life) also I always taper crimp just enough to remove the case mouth flare, and avoid any bullet deformation.
So my results using AA#5 7.5 grs in .357 brass, both moderately roll crimped vs taper crimped showed 1150 fps, and SD <20 and ES <40 fps
For all the .44 revolvers 6.8 grs of Green Dot roll crimped vs taper crimped showed 950 fps, SD <15 ES <30.
My conclusion is that using #5, and Green Dot at target velocities, 1150 fps for .357 and 950 fps for .44 . In my guns a good roll crimp vs a good taper crimp makes no difference in ES, or SD or velocity or on paper down range.
As with most things every ones experience my be different but at 25 yards for me, in my stated applications, roll crimping shows no benefits over taper crimping.(although it does work the brass more)
Also curious I have shot the stated loads for 20 years and never seen had any bullets break free and move out of the case under recoil with a taper crimp. This seems to be repeated over and over about revolver reloading, now granted my revolvers are large and heavy and loads are moderately light for calibers, and the gun weight absorbs lots of the recoil energy. Again with so many things I think each person applications are different.
Just a point of clarity, I'm referring to taper crimp vs roll crimp used in revolvers.....NOT the Henry rifle(crimp is the way to go due to the tube mag)