Is it asking too much....

[shaper]

I have been on the forum for a while now, asking questions, reading, learning, gathering in the items I need for my part of this sport. I still have not cast bullet. I am not the brightest candle in the room here and need to ask a question of the group. When you post a mold for sale, is it asking too much for you to also tell me what caliber the item is? This morning there is a mold up for sale, it is a 311413. This tells me nothing. By the time I go on line to look it up, it is sold and I again lose something I might have been looking for. On page 457 of my Lyman book it tells me everything about the projectile, but not the caliber. There are way too many differences in molds for me to remember all of them. So, I'm asking, please post the caliber so I can buy the items I need a little faster.

[Beagle333]

One way would be to print this out:
http://www.three-peaks.net/bullet_molds.htm
Then you could circle (or group) the molds on the chart with a highlighter or crayon or Sharpie or whatever, and write the caliber as a big number in the group. It'd be a quick reference for ya. It took me a lot longer to learn the second 3 numbers (the profile) than the calibers. But this does work!
Good luck!

[DeanWinchester]

Typically, the first numbers are the size. In the case of the 311413 it should cast a .311 boolit.

I feel your pain though. On a more locally based forum, Glocks came up for sale a lot. They'd never tell the caliber. Only the model, like I'm supposed to know all of them! I'd have to go look it up. Very aggravating when in two seconds, you can type it.

[waksupi]

It can help to research the designs that you would like for your firearm, and keep a list handy to reference.

[contender1]

Quite often on any sales ad,, the seller assumes that everybody knows what they are talking about when they list an item for sale. As such, they use abbreviations, model numbers, & other identifying stuff, that a lot of folks do not understand. (A good example is when a Ruger seller lists a KSBC-4 gun for sale, and not as many folks know that's the model designation for a stainless New Model Bearcat.)
Smart sales folks will provide details to try & get the sale completed. Pictures help a lot on any sale too!

I don't think it's asking too much to list details,,, but do not hold your breath for everyone to change.

[NewbieDave007]

I agree that it would be nice to have the information within the post, but at Beagle has pointed out in his link the caliber for lyman/ideal are the first three numbers. Also, like he said the profile is harder to memorize. While we are at it, I would personally like to see the approximate weight in a sale thread. All that said and it is unlikely that many will change and it is their right since it is their item that they are selling, so we will have to learn/memorize as we go. Plus we will have to hope that BrassMagnet is either sleeping or at work. :kidding:

[jcwit]

Typically, the first numbers are the size. In the case of the 311413 it should cast a .311 boolit.

I feel your pain though. On a more locally based forum, Glocks came up for sale a lot. They'd never tell the caliber. Only the model, like I'm supposed to know all of them! I'd have to go look it up. Very aggravating when in two seconds, you can type it.

Agreed, but like Contender1 says
Smart sales folks will provide details to try & get the sale completed. Pictures help a lot on any sale too!

I don't think it's asking too much to list details,,, but do not hold your breath for everyone to change.

[RobS]

http://www.castpics.net/

In the References section there is mold information

http://www.castpics.net/subsite/CurMolds/default.html

[C.F.Plinker]

The Lyman mold numbers always give one very important piece of information and generally, but not always, give a second piece of information. The first is the diameter of the boolit in thousands of an inch. In the case you gave it is 311 so the diameter is 0.311 inches. This is for a 30 caliber rifle and would work, after sizing, in a rifle whose bore diameter measured land to land was .309 or greater. The second piece of information is the nose punch. This boolit would use the number 413 nose punch.

You may want to tackle this from the other end by going to Lyman's loading data for the caliber(s) you are interested in casting for and seeing which boolit designs they tested. For example, they tested the 311441, 311465, 311440, 311291, 31141, and 311407 for the 30-30. These vary in weight from 115 grains to 173 grains. Now you can decide which molds will satisfy your needs and just look for those

[Elkins45]

One way would be to print this out:
http://www.three-peaks.net/bullet_molds.htm
Then you could circle (or group) the molds on the chart with a highlighter or crayon or Sharpie or whatever, and write the caliber as a big number in the group. It'd be a quick reference for ya. It took me a lot longer to learn the second 3 numbers (the profile) than the calibers. But this does work!
Good luck!

Thanks for the link. That's a really useful reference.


As other have said, the first three digits tell you the nominal diameter. I do agree that the most useful ad is one that gives you a little more info. A picture of the cavity itself is always a good idea.



The Lyman mold numbers always give one very important piece of information and generally, but not always, give a second piece of information. The first is the diameter of the boolit in thousands of an inch. In the case you gave it is 311 so the diameter is 0.311 inches. This is for a 30 caliber rifle and would work, after sizing, in a rifle whose bore diameter measured land to land was .309 or greater. The second piece of information is the nose punch. This boolit would use the number 413 nose punch.

Huh? How uniform is this? I ask because I know I have a 311291 mold but I'm pretty sure it uses a # 465 top punch. I'm going to have to check the chart referenced above to see if there is a 465 mold with a similar nose.

[garym1a2]

A smart seller will list as much information as possible.

[historicfirearms]

Who keeps rating these threads negatively? Look at most of the posts on the "our town" section and look at their ratings.

Personally, I think that this is a good thread with a good, honest question. I just don't get the negative rating.

[Screwbolts]

I believe it was clearly pointed out what caliber the mold was for by just seeing 311413 as previously posted. T say what caliber a mold is for is almost infinet, I believe knowing the dia. of boolit is important to decide if it will work were I may want to try it.

I am assuming you do have internet access, by being a member here for 25 months and posting 115 times. If you were to learn how to use any one of the many search engines that are readily available to use on the internet , in a matter of seconds you can find more info on any subject than can be comprehended by most.

As an example, I simply typed "311413" in a new tabs search window that is for googgle seartch, in .21 sec. I got about 138K of answeres, here is what appeared in1/3 of my s available veiwing screen on my personal choice of computer monitors:

About 138,000 results (0.21 seconds)





Search Results

lyman #311413 / 169gr spitzer [Archive] - Cast Boolits (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-41474.html)http://castboolits.gunloads.com/image/jpeg;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAABAAAAAQCAYAAA Af8/9hAAAAGXRFWHRTb2Z0d2FyZQBBZG9iZSBJbWFnZVJlYWR5ccll PAAAA2RpVFh0WE1MOmNvbS5hZG9iZS54bXAAAAAAADw/eHBhY2tldCBiZWdpbj0i77u/IiBpZD0iVzVNME1wQ2VoaUh6cmVTek5UY3prYzlkIj8 IDx4OnhtcG1ldGEgeG1sbnM6eD0iYWRvYmU6bnM6bWV0YS8iIH g6eG1wdGs9IkFkb2JlIFhNUCBDb3JlIDUuMC1jMDYwIDYxLjEz NDc3NywgMjAxMC8wMi8xMi0xNzozMjowMCAgICAgICAgIj4gPH JkZjpSREYgeG1sbnM6cmRmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LnczLm9yZy8x OTk5LzAyLzIyLXJkZi1zeW50YXgtbnMjIj4gPHJkZjpEZXNjcm lwdGlvbiByZGY6YWJvdXQ9IiIgeG1sbnM6eG1wTU09Imh0dHA6 Ly9ucy5hZG9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC9tbS8iIHhtbG5zOnN0Um VmPSJodHRwOi8vbnMuYWRvYmUuY29tL3hhcC8xLjAvc1R5cGUv UmVzb3VyY2VSZWYjIiB4bWxuczp4bXA9Imh0dHA6Ly9ucy5hZG 9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC8iIHhtcE1NOk9yaWdpbmFsRG9jdW1l bnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExODhGOEY2MU NBMDI5NzQ0NiIgeG1wTU06RG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDo1 OUUyNkZFMEIwODQxMUUxODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wTU 06SW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo1OUUyNkZERkIwODQxMUUx ODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wOkNyZWF0b3JUb29sPSJBZG 9iZSBQaG90b3Nob3AgQ1M1IFdpbmRvd3MiPiA8eG1wTU06RGVy aXZlZEZyb20gc3RSZWY6aW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo5RD YwRkE0Njg0QjBFMTExOEYyQUJGMTU5MjZERkI2MCIgc3RSZWY6 ZG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExOD hGOEY2MUNBMDI5NzQ0NiIvPiA8L3JkZjpEZXNjcmlwdGlvbj4g PC9yZGY6UkRGPiA8L3g6eG1wbWV0YT4gPD94cGFja2V0IGVuZD 0iciI/PlgfPrEAAAItSURBVHjaXNNNSFRRFMDxd 97M29GGbVR1MwWgZIYEpENRkQwrUKtiApqIS7ETVAIQRSJtAiC MgoKanBRVIuKgiKhsoW1KAKbVq5KwyCDtCLty9B3 584hvrgx71P7zn3vHPvGOect/QxucYShs1ohMynMYJnrnNoZNHahQkItAwHcQjyj1cYxW swDo8RTeJfixKQHCKoQ970Y8nGMMnTOArVuIi/qCFJNNWg0OGaxosO7zQncU4vkkVBOQZt6MKF/5XQIID odJnMdDfMEv/ISUGyFGkhnW72Z G1uMd3l9EZMh1OIMLmnAHGbwHfJ5V1CHnfiMd7hptdsSPIAclm Otli3BBbirgZJgNabwARmrRyXPDcziqn5CJ5K4hayuOYvHerTy SUWSoFzLfaPnPamLe7WZ2/T9NI4igVJUSoVWy4m0WXJUeyDdjqNBg09psPQrwBosw7AkeC3d RaFcHrr8Xs4YLzXxOfRoQKjaJKtv7D2rF0bK3kpwxBEZxo 8N2MTjuvOsWQQmsD6HdbYVsb8rlXZ/vl7cIQFh1FP8ATvMb3K8qQITBnPVMxGcy3Oc8eYu8qC0uax/Q ezyeQ772ujenQcy5jl7Rv/OLA GWRF2Ui59op21Qk012j 7f fcVC34LsutJuReUOMDCtwiYV tdaUr48eGGdM2JwdZcXvsWM0t/zvG pgwl7mBaQwXFJEmEfny8urD8Ue/GrsFs1YZIGylVh38FGACk4rlPEtOaLAAAAABJRU5ErkJggg==c astboolits.gunloads.com › ... › Molds...Maintenance and Design (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/f-9.html)
Apr 1, 2009 - 38 posts - ‎25 authors
Also, given #311413's lesser bearing surface, I'd make doubly sure that they're sized to fit your bore and maybe even a bit larger; .311" or perhaps even .312".311413 and 358311 SC Molds with handles in box. (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-248343.html)
4 posts
Jul 20, 2014

Lyman 311413 Mold (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-126839.html)
8 posts
Sep 6, 2011

So, what's wrong with the 311413 (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-512.html)
27 posts
Apr 9, 2005

More results from castboolits.gunloads.com (https://www.google.com/search?q=311413+site:castboolits.gunloads.com&client=firefox-a&hs=MZG&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb)






Lyman #311413 - Shooters Forum (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.shootersforum.com%2Fbullet-casting%2F8535-lyman-311413-a.html&ei=0SbNU96wNJKcyATh74GYCQ&usg=AFQjCNEgRgxXt4BhxQr8akNcrqEagmiT5A&sig2=ErVENnILrbgk5Ltd-SVX3w&bvm=bv.71198958,d.aWw)http://castboolits.gunloads.com/image/jpeg;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAABAAAAAQCAYAAA Af8/9hAAAAGXRFWHRTb2Z0d2FyZQBBZG9iZSBJbWFnZVJlYWR5ccll PAAAA2RpVFh0WE1MOmNvbS5hZG9iZS54bXAAAAAAADw/eHBhY2tldCBiZWdpbj0i77u/IiBpZD0iVzVNME1wQ2VoaUh6cmVTek5UY3prYzlkIj8 IDx4OnhtcG1ldGEgeG1sbnM6eD0iYWRvYmU6bnM6bWV0YS8iIH g6eG1wdGs9IkFkb2JlIFhNUCBDb3JlIDUuMC1jMDYwIDYxLjEz NDc3NywgMjAxMC8wMi8xMi0xNzozMjowMCAgICAgICAgIj4gPH JkZjpSREYgeG1sbnM6cmRmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LnczLm9yZy8x OTk5LzAyLzIyLXJkZi1zeW50YXgtbnMjIj4gPHJkZjpEZXNjcm lwdGlvbiByZGY6YWJvdXQ9IiIgeG1sbnM6eG1wTU09Imh0dHA6 Ly9ucy5hZG9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC9tbS8iIHhtbG5zOnN0Um VmPSJodHRwOi8vbnMuYWRvYmUuY29tL3hhcC8xLjAvc1R5cGUv UmVzb3VyY2VSZWYjIiB4bWxuczp4bXA9Imh0dHA6Ly9ucy5hZG 9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC8iIHhtcE1NOk9yaWdpbmFsRG9jdW1l bnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExODhGOEY2MU NBMDI5NzQ0NiIgeG1wTU06RG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDo1 OUUyNkZFMEIwODQxMUUxODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wTU 06SW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo1OUUyNkZERkIwODQxMUUx ODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wOkNyZWF0b3JUb29sPSJBZG 9iZSBQaG90b3Nob3AgQ1M1IFdpbmRvd3MiPiA8eG1wTU06RGVy aXZlZEZyb20gc3RSZWY6aW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo5RD YwRkE0Njg0QjBFMTExOEYyQUJGMTU5MjZERkI2MCIgc3RSZWY6 ZG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExOD hGOEY2MUNBMDI5NzQ0NiIvPiA8L3JkZjpEZXNjcmlwdGlvbj4g PC9yZGY6UkRGPiA8L3g6eG1wbWV0YT4gPD94cGFja2V0IGVuZD 0iciI/PlgfPrEAAAItSURBVHjaXNNNSFRRFMDxd 97M29GGbVR1MwWgZIYEpENRkQwrUKtiApqIS7ETVAIQRSJtAiC MgoKanBRVIuKgiKhsoW1KAKbVq5KwyCDtCLty9B3 584hvrgx71P7zn3vHPvGOect/QxucYShs1ohMynMYJnrnNoZNHahQkItAwHcQjyj1cYxW swDo8RTeJfixKQHCKoQ970Y8nGMMnTOArVuIi/qCFJNNWg0OGaxosO7zQncU4vkkVBOQZt6MKF/5XQIID odJnMdDfMEv/ISUGyFGkhnW72Z G1uMd3l9EZMh1OIMLmnAHGbwHfJ5V1CHnfiMd7hptdsSPIAclm Otli3BBbirgZJgNabwARmrRyXPDcziqn5CJ5K4hayuOYvHerTy SUWSoFzLfaPnPamLe7WZ2/T9NI4igVJUSoVWy4m0WXJUeyDdjqNBg09psPQrwBosw7AkeC3d RaFcHrr8Xs4YLzXxOfRoQKjaJKtv7D2rF0bK3kpwxBEZxo 8N2MTjuvOsWQQmsD6HdbYVsb8rlXZ/vl7cIQFh1FP8ATvMb3K8qQITBnPVMxGcy3Oc8eYu8qC0uax/Q ezyeQ772ujenQcy5jl7Rv/OLA GWRF2Ui59op21Qk012j 7f fcVC34LsutJuReUOMDCtwiYV tdaUr48eGGdM2JwdZcXvsWM0t/zvG pgwl7mBaQwXFJEmEfny8urD8Ue/GrsFs1YZIGylVh38FGACk4rlPEtOaLAAAAABJRU5ErkJggg==w ww.shootersforum.com › Handloading (http://www.shootersforum.com/#handloading) › Bullet Casting (http://www.shootersforum.com/bullet-casting/)
Jan 25, 2004 - 3 posts
Has any one had good results with Lyman #311413. What alloy and lube were used? Also when I wont to post somthing is it best to use a new ...



Lyman 311413/169 Squibb questions - Cast Boolits (http://forum1.aimoo.com/cast___boolits__/category/Lyman-311413-169-Squibb-questions-1-956196.html)http://castboolits.gunloads.com/image/jpeg;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAABAAAAAQCAYAAA Af8/9hAAAAGXRFWHRTb2Z0d2FyZQBBZG9iZSBJbWFnZVJlYWR5ccll PAAAA2RpVFh0WE1MOmNvbS5hZG9iZS54bXAAAAAAADw/eHBhY2tldCBiZWdpbj0i77u/IiBpZD0iVzVNME1wQ2VoaUh6cmVTek5UY3prYzlkIj8 IDx4OnhtcG1ldGEgeG1sbnM6eD0iYWRvYmU6bnM6bWV0YS8iIH g6eG1wdGs9IkFkb2JlIFhNUCBDb3JlIDUuMC1jMDYwIDYxLjEz NDc3NywgMjAxMC8wMi8xMi0xNzozMjowMCAgICAgICAgIj4gPH JkZjpSREYgeG1sbnM6cmRmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LnczLm9yZy8x OTk5LzAyLzIyLXJkZi1zeW50YXgtbnMjIj4gPHJkZjpEZXNjcm lwdGlvbiByZGY6YWJvdXQ9IiIgeG1sbnM6eG1wTU09Imh0dHA6 Ly9ucy5hZG9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC9tbS8iIHhtbG5zOnN0Um VmPSJodHRwOi8vbnMuYWRvYmUuY29tL3hhcC8xLjAvc1R5cGUv UmVzb3VyY2VSZWYjIiB4bWxuczp4bXA9Imh0dHA6Ly9ucy5hZG 9iZS5jb20veGFwLzEuMC8iIHhtcE1NOk9yaWdpbmFsRG9jdW1l bnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExODhGOEY2MU NBMDI5NzQ0NiIgeG1wTU06RG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDo1 OUUyNkZFMEIwODQxMUUxODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wTU 06SW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo1OUUyNkZERkIwODQxMUUx ODgwRUI2QTQ0QkQ0NUI2OSIgeG1wOkNyZWF0b3JUb29sPSJBZG 9iZSBQaG90b3Nob3AgQ1M1IFdpbmRvd3MiPiA8eG1wTU06RGVy aXZlZEZyb20gc3RSZWY6aW5zdGFuY2VJRD0ieG1wLmlpZDo5RD YwRkE0Njg0QjBFMTExOEYyQUJGMTU5MjZERkI2MCIgc3RSZWY6 ZG9jdW1lbnRJRD0ieG1wLmRpZDoyOTY1NjZCQjIwQUFFMTExOD hGOEY2MUNBMDI5NzQ0NiIvPiA8L3JkZjpEZXNjcmlwdGlvbj4g PC9yZGY6UkRGPiA8L3g6eG1wbWV0YT4gPD94cGFja2V0IGVuZD 0iciI/PlgfPrEAAAItSURBVHjaXNNNSFRRFMDxd 97M29GGbVR1MwWgZIYEpENRkQwrUKtiApqIS7ETVAIQRSJtAiC MgoKanBRVIuKgiKhsoW1KAKbVq5KwyCDtCLty9B3 584hvrgx71P7zn3vHPvGOect/QxucYShs1ohMynMYJnrnNoZNHahQkItAwHcQjyj1cYxW swDo8RTeJfixKQHCKoQ970Y8nGMMnTOArVuIi/qCFJNNWg0OGaxosO7zQncU4vkkVBOQZt6MKF/5XQIID odJnMdDfMEv/ISUGyFGkhnW72Z G1uMd3l9EZMh1OIMLmnAHGbwHfJ5V1CHnfiMd7hptdsSPIAclm Otli3BBbirgZJgNabwARmrRyXPDcziqn5CJ5K4hayuOYvHerTy SUWSoFzLfaPnPamLe7WZ2/T9NI4igVJUSoVWy4m0WXJUeyDdjqNBg09psPQrwBosw7AkeC3d RaFcHrr8Xs4YLzXxOfRoQKjaJKtv7D2rF0bK3kpwxBEZxo 8N2MTjuvOsWQQmsD6HdbYVsb8rlXZ/vl7cIQFh1FP8ATvMb3K8qQITBnPVMxGcy3Oc8eYu8qC0uax/Q ezyeQ772ujenQcy5jl7Rv/OLA GWRF2Ui59op21Qk012j 7f fcVC34LsutJuReUOMDCtwiYV tdaUr48eGGdM2JwdZcXvsWM0t/zvG pgwl7mBaQwXFJEmEfny8urD8Ue/GrsFs1YZIGylVh38FGACk4rlPEtOaLAAAAABJRU5ErkJggg==f orum1.aimoo.com/.../Lyman-311413-169-Squibb-questions-1-956196....

Mar 8, 2004 - These days this bullet in general and the Lyman version in particular (311413) seem to have a poor reputation for accuracy at speeds of more ...


Your question reminds me of a seen in "Good Will Hunting" . Will asks the professor played by Robin Williams, as he looks over all the diplomas, "Doesn't it really Piss you off that everything you learned to get these is available for a $.40 library card? The use of search engines is todays library cards.

Ken

[462]

When in the market to buy something, diligent homework is necessary.

Not always are the last three numbers of a Lyman mould the number of the correct top punch -- the 311291 comes readily to mind.

[MBTcustom]

After a while you get to where you know most of the common mold designs by heart, but it's nearly impossible to remember all of them.
Often I recognize the size and the basic design right off the bat, but I need details quick when looking at a for sale thread.
In that situation, I high lite the mold number and hit "Ctrl C" (that's copy)
Then I open a new page on a Google search and hit "Ctrl V" (that's paste)
Mash "Enter" and I can usually find the pertinent information I need in mere seconds, make a decision, then go back to the original castboolits page and either scream "I'll take it!!!!" or think, "you can keep your janky fishing sinker caster upper" and move along to do all if this over again. LOL!

What really stinks is when you have all the time in the world to research a certain obsolete mold design, and you just cant find jack squat anywhere. I'm currently trying to find information on a Lyman 311329 and the pickins are mighty slim!
but I digress.......

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Patience young shaper, it takes time to become wise to the ways of the boolit!:cbpour:

[koehn,jim]

Goodsteel a google search showed the 311329c as dropping a 210 grain spitzer with a gas check. Hope this helps.

[Hamish]

I had to smile when I saw the OP,,,,,,,,

I know I am not the Lone Ranger when I say that I lost count a long time ago of the number of moulds and what not I missed out on or felt clueless in a thread until I went and did a search of "Lyman mold chart". I still do it, A LOT.......

The cast boolit hobby, like any other, has a learning curve. If you are doing it right you are always learning more.

As Waksupi wisely said, searching out information about what Boolits generally work best with the guns you are interested in shooting and then studying up on those models and WHY they work will do more to help you along than any thing else when it comes to learning the numbers.

You have to remember that much of the numbering system comes from a time when in actuality, the numbers system had been, for the most part, changed over from a 4 digit system. And there was no uniformity of numbering. If I was XYZ Co. And I wanted to make a .38 wad cutter, whatever I deemed appropriate, from the letter A, to the number 1, to the size it actually was projected to cast plus my personal model designation was fair game.

It doesn't take long to learn the Lyman system, and kind of overlapping our "modern" way of the size and then the grain weight will get to be old hat, just like anything, from learning baseball scoring, to arrow spine in aluminum, aluminum carbon composites, and carbon.

As far as the way that an item is presented for sale without a doubt, Ben consistently makes the most informative and visually pleasing sale posts. With pictures of the mould, the boolit it drops, and all pertinent info on the model and the alloy and weights. Just outstanding.

shaper, I really do empathize with your frustration, especially so since I was the guy that glommed onto that 311413 that had been plain based by Buckshot. (I could not believe that it had sat unclaimed for half an hour!)

Hamish

[NVScouter]

Molds go very fast in S&S. I've known the mold and still been beaten out by 2-3 fellas. Better yet put up a post for WANTED" _______

[mold maker]

I've cast since 1962, or at least most of that time, and the numbers only make sense part of the time. Especially when so many cast off size from the indicated number. The boolit style can also be very different from what is listed in manuals, and mold lists, because of all the group buys and custom molds produced.
We do need a standard that can be a reference to all. I'm sure it would benefit more than shaper and I.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have been on the forum for a while now, asking questions, reading, learning, gathering in the items I need for my part of this sport. I still have not cast bullet. I am not the brightest candle in the room here and need to ask a question of the group. When you post a mold for sale, is it asking too much for you to also tell me what caliber the item is? This morning there is a mold up for sale, it is a 311413. This tells me nothing. By the time I go on line to look it up, it is sold and I again lose something I might have been looking for. On page 457 of my Lyman book it tells me everything about the projectile, but not the caliber. There are way too many differences in molds for me to remember all of them. So, I'm asking, please post the caliber so I can buy the items I need a little faster.
Great suggestions !
But, one problem is, maybe the seller doesn't know anymore about the mold than you do? I've bought several molds where the seller didn't have a clue about the mold, they are just 'flippin' some items they bought in a box from a garage sale or gun show or from the widow down the street. Buyer be aware ! If you are unsure about an item, let it pass, then educate yourself ...another one will come around soon enough.
Good Luck
Jon

[Boogieman]

And then we have some Lyman molds that come in 2 different weights with the same number.

[dagger dog]

shaper,

Google Ol' Buffalo Bullet Mold Tables and Lyman Mold Reference , I checked and my browser shows both and the links work. Save them in your favorites and open the new tab to search when you come across those # that don't make any sense, they only work for Ideal and Lyman.

[Leslie Sapp]

I keep a folder on my desktop with a .pdf of every mold chart I've ever run across. If I'm watching out for a particular mold, I'll set a watch for that number on sites where it might come up for sale. I've tried to attach the Ideal/Lyman chart I use most often, let's see if it comes through.

[Leslie Sapp]

Ha! It works! Didn't know I could do that.:-)

[Springfield]

To take the other side of the coin, if the mould sold that fast the seller didn't need to post any more info. Also, if I posted I have a 150 grain 30 caliber Loverin mould for sale, would that really be any better? Print up a copy of the Lyman molds and you will be better prepared.

[MtGun44]

It only tells you nothing because you have made no effort to learn about
the numbering system. The caliber is extremely easy for Lyman molds -
the first three digits are the intended "as cast" diameter in thousandths.

After that, well, look it up or memorize it like everyone else did.

Bill

[btroj]

It only tells you nothing because you have made no effort to learn about
the numbering system. The caliber is extremely easy for Lyman molds -
the first three digits are the intended "as cast" diameter in thousandths.

After that, well, look it up or memorize it like everyone else did.

Bill

This!

Do your homework. If you don't know what a mould is then how can you possibly know it might be what you need? If it was what you "need" then you should know what it is.

We all were in the same place at some point. Most of us read Lyman manuals cover to cover numerous times. I suggest you do likewise.

[shaper]

Thank you all for your comments. I looked at all sites that you recommended. I down loaded and printed 32 pages so I will have the information at hand when needed.

[462]

Ain't nobody gonna' be gettin' a mould before you, now!

Another Lyman numbering oddity: At one time, for .30 caliber moulds, they used 308 as the first three numbers, instead of 311. I may be wrong, but this continued for some time after the Ideal/Lyman transition.

[MBTcustom]

This!
Most of us read Lyman manuals cover to cover numerous times. I suggest you do likewise.

We did?
I mean yeah! We did! LOL!

To be perfectly frank, at this point we are swimming in custom mold makers who will create you a custom work of art that will drop perfectly round boolits that fit your rifle perfectly if you provide a pound chamber cast, and they can do it for less than the cost of two of these molds that may or may not be worth anything to your rifle. Not only that, but they can make sure it is a well supported design that reflects the advancements that have been made in cast boolit design, by giving you a very well balanced boolit of known BC and fit.
Why not send off and have a custom made from LBT, Accurate, or NOE? Can't beat that with a stick!

[Cornbread]

To be perfectly frank, at this point we are swimming in custom mold makers who will create you a custom work of art that will drop perfectly round boolits that fit your rifle perfectly if you provide a pound chamber cast, and they can do it for less than the cost of two of these molds that may or may not be worth anything to your rifle. Not only that, but they can make sure it is a well supported design that reflects the advancements that have been made in cast boolit design, by giving you a very well balanced boolit of known BC and fit.
Why not send off and have a custom made from LBT, Accurate, or NOE? Can't beat that with a stick!


This is what I did. I have been reloading cast bullets for many years but I always bought them. I decided to start casting my own. I did a bunch of research, figured out what I wanted and ordered a mold from NOE. I figure since I know what works in my guns, I started casting to be able to make better bullets than I can buy, at cheaper prices than what bullet makers sell them for, so I needed to start with quality from the ground up. If you know what works for your gun and you know what you want to do with the bullet(for me it is purely about hunting) then you don't need a gazillion different mold types, you just need one or two that work well. For me it was well worth the extra cost to start with higher quality custom stuff and not even mess around with the frustration of trying to figure out what I could fudge into working with a generic mass produced mold. I am very pleased with the results and my next few molds for my other guns will be from NOE and LBT. One or two molds per caliber is really all I need, except for 454s which I collect and for those since I will eventually have a rather large number of them I might have four to six molds for all of them in the end.

[WILCO]

Thanks for the link. That's a really useful reference.

I agree! You can right click the bullet design you're interested in and save it as a picture.
Use the bullet design information as a file name. Put it in a folder for quick and easy access.
Here's the bullet in question: 311413 GC 169gr.

[a.squibload]

Should slug the barrel first.
Three different guns of the same caliber could use
three different boolit diameters.

[CastingFool]

I simply copy and paste the mold number and do a search on a different window, and look for more info, photo, etc. Takes seconds.

[BruceB]

Should slug the barrel first.
Three different guns of the same caliber could use
three different boolit diameters.

On the other hand, I have found that in rifles of reasonably-modern manufacture, I can get away WITHOUT slugging barrels in many situations.

For example, I find that for ALL my .30-caliber rifles, dating from 1898 to 2010, sizing the bullets at .311" works perfectly.... and that includes single-shots, bolt-actions, and .... most notably..... several autoloading rifles. It doesn't include the .303 rifles, though.... they need fatter bullets.

As long as the loaded cartridge chambers properly (without difficulty) the ammunition should shoot well.... too SMALL a diameter can lead to many sorts of problems.

Although I've slugged a lot of barrels in the past, I find that it's rarely necessary for me now.

[a.squibload]

I probably over-generalized, was thinking of the 303 when I wrote that!