Mold throws to small...

[jayjay1]

... so what can I do?

My .40 mold throws .401", but I need .402", so can I make it wider somehow?

Any help is very welcome!

[bangerjim]

Search on here about "beagling" the mold. You can make it a bit larger.

banger

[gpidaho]

jayjay:If you only need one one thousandth more just an alloy change might do it. If more is needed there is always powder coat GP

[jayjay1]

Hmhm, I see.

Found the "leementing" on that route too.

And it seems to be a common Lyman problem as I see now.

Why does Lyman produce to small molds, which everybody seems to be unhappy with?
Sending it to them would cost me half the mold.

So what the heck, I want my bullets round, will try leementing, can´t be worse than let the mold rust in my cupboard.
I´ve read, that the screw must be shorter than the bullet and that a machine screw (hole drilled before) is better than a wood screw.
Any suggestions for the grinding compound?

I´ll give it a try, just can lose a mold which is worth nothing so.


Thanks bangerjim for your info!

[Larry Gibson]

And it seems to be a common Lyman problem as I see now.

Only when the wrong alloy is used which is "common" user "problem". Your Lyman mould is a 401xxx, right? Then it is supposed to cast .401 diameter bullets. That you want a larger bullet is the fault of the mould?

What alloy are you using? If you are using straight COWWs (the most common user error) then by adding 2% tin and casting at 725 you may see .402+.

Larry Gibson

[jayjay1]

I´m casting 5 parts range scrap with 1 part lino, no more ww over here.

Running my pot with ra. 750.

Nearly all of the leementing and beagling threads are going around Lyman molds, I would say 9 out of 10 or even more.

So, what is Lyman doing right there?
Maybe time to overthink something, not?

[JeffinNZ]

Can I ask why you need .402 inch?

[xacex]

Powder coat that should do the trick.

[jayjay1]

@Jeff:
Because my CZ throws like a watering can with .401".

I plugged a bullet through my barrel and that said .401" is to less.

What´s the reason for your question?

[jayjay1]

Powder coat that should do the trick.

Might be an option, but I have no experience with that and want to stay by size-lubing, like I do with all of my bullets, to keep it as simple as possible.

[Larry Gibson]

I´m casting 5 parts range scrap with 1 part lino, no more ww over here.

Running my pot with ra. 750.

Nearly all of the leementing and beagling threads are going around Lyman molds, I would say 9 out of 10 or even more.

So, what is Lyman doing right there?
Maybe time to overthink something, not?

Your alloy is antimony rich and tin poor which is conducive to excessive shrinkage as the bullet solidifies.

The problem is compounded by the high temp you are cast at which with that alloy adds to excessive shrinkage.

To make a better alloy with various batches of range lead over the years I have found that adding lead and tin produces an excellent alloy. What kind of bullets were in the range lead?

Yes the Lyman mould is doing right. It is designed and cut to cast at a minimum .401 with Lyman #2 alloy. #2 alloy has a good balance of lead/antimony/tin and gives excellent fill out in the mould. Given that you are getting .401 with your alloy a better alloy such as #2 alloy or a proper mix of your range lead with additional lead and tin added wil probably give you bullets of .402+.

Larry Gibson

[500MAG]

Get yourself some tin or pewter, like LG is telling you, and just measure it out. Get at least 2% of tin to the mix and go from there. It's kind of like working up a load. Maybe try water dropping if your not doing so.

[jayjay1]

Thanks folks for your support.

Tin is hard to get here, you will pay about 15 bucks for only one pound.
But with 2% it wouldn´t be to hard to get some, so I will think about.

Another member inhere wrote me a PM, to try it with pure lino, just to see what dia comes out.
Will try that, because it is easier for me.

Will order some tin too.

And yessir, I do waterdrop all my bullets till now.

Thanks gentlemen.

[Larry Gibson]

At $15 per pound it seems expensive but at 2% that 1 lb will do 50 lbs of alloy........that can be a lot of very good bullets.........

Larry Gibson

[jayjay1]

You´re absolutely right.
:drinks:

[JeffinNZ]

@Jeff:
Because my CZ throws like a watering can with .401".

I plugged a bullet through my barrel and that said .401" is to less.

What´s the reason for your question?

Just checking. Not everyone does their homework you see as you have.

[gpidaho]

Jay Jay: D

[jayjay1]

Ok, I´ve ordered two pounds of tin and will cast at roundabout 725° and see what happens.

:cbpour:

[Larry Gibson]

Great. Also adjust your casting tempo so you get good quality bullets. Don't cast so fast the mould is overheated and the bullets get frosted. Cast for quality not quantity, you'll end up with more good bullets in less time that way.

Larry Gibson

[osteodoc08]

Slow down. Cool off your mold and melt temperature. Add tin.

I get nice fat boolits with COWW with 2% tin, casting at 675*F. Nice purty satiny smooth boolits.

I have played around and have had as much as a .002" reduction in nominal diameter due to hot molds, temps and terrible frosting. Keep 'em cool and take your time.

[kungfustyle]

+1 on powder coating should add .001 or .002 to your diameter. Smoke sells them for $17/# in the SS section or go to harbor freight and pick some up for $5.
Great stuff and if you have already cast a bunch this will salvage your boolits. If you lubed them you can take the lube off w/ a bath in mineral spirits then simple green.

[Freightman]

he most likely don't have a Harbor Freight in Germany.

[jayjay1]

Thats correct!
But the powders over here cost a looooot more than yours.
The starting price is 19,50 Euro for 250 gramms, that´s about 26 Dollars for 3.850 grains.
So it would be well worth to pay the shipment for some more powder.

But to be honest, I don´t want to PC.
I´ve ordered a Star sizer, which, what I think, will be much faster with less space and costs needed in the end.
Or is there any PC-Method to make 1500 bullets in one hour?
I don´t know, but if so, I would become interesting for me.

[johnson1942]

run your bullets up and down between two new flat files then resize them to the size you want thriugh a push through reduceing die. the perfect knarled surface will hold more lube or powder you put on them and they also will be of the perfect size you want. your undersized bullets may be a blessing in disguise as you will like the end result of this method.

[DrCaveman]

run your bullets up and down between two new flat files then resize them to the size you want thriugh a push through reduceing die. the perfect knarled surface will hold more lube or powder you put on them and they also will be of the perfect size you want. your undersized bullets may be a blessing in disguise as you will like the end result of this method.

Can you elaborate here? Are you squashing the boolit to make it fatter? Or just gnarling up the edges so it sort of grows?

[Artful]

He's Knurling the surface.
Process pushes in part which raises adjoining part fattening up the projectile.
http://www.natchezss.com/images/products/HO10208.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling

[johnson1942]

its a old trick that really probably came from corbin swageing. they sell roller knarler. you dont need that and you dont mash. rolling a bullet between two files knarles them nicely. them again resize them and they are perfectly round and the perfect size. again holds a lube like lee alox really good. a few guys i know who shoot paperpatch with the same bullet out of diff guns do this because one bore may be a little larger that another. that way they can use the same bullet but knarl it up and resize it for the larger bore gun. some even knarl a slightly undersized bullet, lube with lee alox and swage them slightly again at the size they need. makes a good coated bullet. really good for pistols.