Powder Coating Setup

[gpidaho]

Here's my setup. Don't want to bore anyone with details but please don't hesitate to reply with questions, comments or advice.

[Yodogsandman]

Nice setup! Very pretty boolits, too! Looks like you've solved a lot of problems that I'm just starting to getting into. I just have a 22x22 cutout cardboard box for a booth so far with no vent.

On your spray booth, I can't tell if the ventilation is vacuum powered or if you have a box fan in a frame? Do you filter it?

What do you use the small wood rack with a shelf for? Did you just pick those from that plant?

[gpidaho]

Yodog: Thanks for the kind comeback. The filter is vacuum powered (Not shown) The wood frame is just a stand I use for other things. What I was trying to show was a lack of coating on the gas check area. The use of the plates with the holes drilled allows coating the rest of the bullet not gas check area. alternately nose down in the hole you can coat driving bands on a bore rider without coating the nose. Thanks to all who broke trail on this. Having a great time with this. Works so well. GP

[Beagle333]

Now that is a sweet setup right there! :holysheep


You have took this to the next level...... Semi-pro!
Good job! Awesome looking boolits too. :D

[gpidaho]

Thanks Beagle: That is high praise from one of the men most responsible for my interest in powder coating. Thanks again to the trailblazers. Some of the most sharing people are here on Cast Boolits. What a spot to share ideas.GP

[Yodogsandman]

After thinking awhile about your setup, the only thing I would add is a 6"x6" steel lazy susan to rotate the bullet rack on while spraying. I put one in my aluminum foil lined, cardboard box/booth, grounded it to the ESPCer and it worked out great. The aluminum boolit rack was grounded just by setting it on the steel lazy susan. I saw the idea on another thread here. The PO also gave good ideas for grounding the lazy susan, too. He used a flat spring rigged up to ground the top of the lazy susan while it rotated. I found I didn't need it by the way the sprayer zapped when I got the tip too close to it.

[gpidaho]

Yes Yodog, I had already given that some thought. I believe that would work well for grounding as it would sit on the all-thread cross bolts. If we all keep up the sharing of our ideas here all interested parties will have awesome set-ups. I am working on a way to coat bands and grooves only on rifle boolits. Using the aluminum plates with holes drilled to fit the noses of rifle boolits and caps ive made from the necks of worn-out brass over the gas check shanks. Will post some pics. if it works out for me. Thanks to all for there ideas. GP

[Yodogsandman]

I hadn't thought of brass cases over the gas check shanks, great idea! I planned to install gas checks and size prior to PCing and then coat right over them. That's with the boolit noses inverted into a rack so they don't get covered. Then go back and re-size again. With your idea, I'd only have to size once! Again, great idea! Thanks!

[Yodogsandman]

My .35 boolit noses don't fit inverted in my tray. My tray is 1/2" thick aluminum drilled for .35 cal on one side and .30 cal on the other (used the same pilot holes). The gas check shank fits into the tray almost perfect though, when I turn my rack upside down only about 15 fall out. Now I'm thinking of setting the boolits on the rack and then covering the nose with empty cases to prevent PC'ing the nose area.. I found that if I slide a 9mm case over the nose of my 35 Whelen boolit, it fits down to the front band. It's just a little loose on the boolit, sizing the cases first would tighten the fit. A 380 Auto fits down to within 1/8" of the band and fits tight. I like the 9mm case trick but, don't own one and don't have a sizer die for it. So, I tried a 357 mag sizer die and a #16 shell holder and it worked! It sized the mouth down to a perfect size to just fit over the nose and doesn't fall off when upside down. Now, I'll have to see what I can use to cover up .30 caliber boolit noses. Maybe a cut down .30 cal M1 case or 32 S&W. Again, thanks for putting the great idea in my head to try empty cases.

[Beagle333]

That's pretty cool. Take a pic!!

[ipijohn]

My .35 boolit noses don't fit inverted in my tray. My tray is 1/4" thick aluminum drilled for .35 cal on one side and .30 cal on the other (used the same pilot holes). The gas check shank fits into the tray almost perfect though, when I turn my rack upside down only about 15 fall out. Now I'm thinking of setting the boolits on the rack and then covering the nose with empty cases to prevent PC'ing the nose area.. I found that if I slide a 9mm case over the nose of my 35 Whelen boolit, it fits down to the front band. It's just a little loose on the boolit, sizing the cases first would tighten the fit. A 380 Auto fits down to within 1/8" of the band and fits tight. I like the 9mm case trick but, don't own one and don't have a sizer die for it. So, I tried a 357 mag sizer die and a #16 shell holder and it worked! It sized the mouth down to a perfect size to just fit over the nose and doesn't fall off when upside down. Now, I'll have to see what I can use to cover up .30 caliber boolit noses. Maybe a cut down .30 cal M1 case or 32 S&W. Again, thanks for putting the great idea in my head to try empty cases.

I do this with my 312-155 Lee boolits. When PCed The bore rider was tool large to chamber in my 300AAC so I chopped the nose off of some 223 brass ran them through my 300AAC sizer and slipped the 312-155's in up to the driving band before coating.

[Yodogsandman]

ipijohn, That'll work! I won't get back to the 30 calibers for a while, how about showing off some photos for everyone to see. Before I discovered PC'ing, I cast up thirty pounds of 312-155's, now I want to coat them to reduce the build up in the gas system of my SKS Yugo's. Lots of lube to clean off first, though!

[ipijohn]

312-155 on the left is finished, ready to load. The one in the center is also finished but back in the 300AAC case that I use as a shield to PC coat and bake them. The one on the right is as cast after sizing. Obviously I put GC's on after coating.
111844

[gpidaho]

We are all pretty much on the same page here. I go nose down in the plate and cover the gas check shank with just the necks I cut off worn out brass, but I think we are all headed in the same direction. The bore riders got me thinking about all this. Somewhere here a guy posted about just sizing the noses of powder coat bullets. Im just going to plead ignorance and ask how.AllI can think of is pretty Rube Goldsmithish. He does PM Me when life becomes to simplistic. Always on the look-out for fresh ideas. Thanks All GP

[gpidaho]

Think I got Rubes last name wrong. OOPS! GP

[Beagle333]

I like that setup. I suppose if you wanted to, you could lift the cases off the boolits after you sprayed, and the powder would flow down as it cured and you wouldn't get that ridge around the nose, like if you had stood the boolit in the fired case. :cool:

[Yodogsandman]

Yup, the way it's set up, the gas check shank holds the boolit upright in the holes in the tray and doesn't get covered with PC either. They're set on non-stick aluminum foil. Gas checks will be installed as I size them. That's just once now due to apidaho's idea. My shanks are just right as-cast size.

The noses are covered by the sized 9mm cases and also will not be coated with PC. Some cases are too tight to remove prior to baking, I'd upset the whole tray somehow, I think. Maybe the heat would loosen them, I don't know but, I'm not going to try it on the first batch. I'll have to deal with the ridge left when I take the cases off after quenching in ice cold water this time (not cool tap water). They should fall off during sizing.

apidaho, This is easier than sizing the nose if the nose is the proper size. If it was PC'd, then a nose sizer would probably be needed. After PC'ing my noses went from about .348" to about .357". Nose dies are mostly custom made or I think Redding has inserts that work, also.

I'm all packed up, ready to go to the range if the weather's good. My tripod issue is resolved so, I can use my chrony. If not, I'll PC the boolits in the above photo.

[gpidaho]

Yodog: I had wondered if something along the line of a Redding bushing die with the proper insert could be used to size the noses but don't want to spend that much just find out if that would work. Anyway I think you and I are on the right track at lower cost just shading the areas we don't want to coat. Going to try some coating options today. See if I can get proper fit in some of my 30cals. Have a good day at the range and keep me up to date on progress. GP

[ipijohn]

I like that setup. I suppose if you wanted to, you could lift the cases off the boolits after you sprayed, and the powder would flow down as it cured and you wouldn't get that ridge around the nose, like if you had stood the boolit in the fired case. :cool:

My PC coating thickness is less than .002 so it doesn't leave much of a ridge.

[gpidaho]

Yodog: After working with the plates today I believe you are right in the assessment that the boolits in the upright position is the way to go. While it works either way with the gas check shanks, set in the plates or capped I think the noses are easier in the upright position. Just trying to find the just right tube cap. So far the best Ive come up with is 303 brit. sized without the expander in the die and cut off with a tubing cutter. Has to be a better way. Help me think up the just right tube for covering the noses. GP

[Yodogsandman]

I had thunderstorms off and on all day with lots of humidity, so I PC'd those boolits.

apidaho, Which caliber/nose diameter/mold are you working with?

[gpidaho]

Those look good Yodog. Right now Im working with 30cal. and fat 30s for my 762x54R Had some made today with my Lee C309-180-R look just about like your pic. If I had a camera on hand I would post a pic. will have son-inlaw help me out soon Hes the computer and camera man around here. I think tomorrow I might try using the drill press with a 17/64 bit and try drilling .304 in something light and short for caps. Im lucky as the Lee mould drops just over .309 so I coated some today and just seated the checks no sizing and they are .311 should be right for my .308 and my single shot 30-30 as they both have .310 throats. I will compare notes with you soon. Again nice job our idea is above average for a change at least for me. GP

[Beagle333]

My PC coating thickness is less than .002 so it doesn't leave much of a ridge.

I think my problem was that I was using boolits that weren't bore riders and so the sizer didn't clean off the flashing on the nose. It wasn't so much the thickness, but the overlap onto the cases. So either pulling the cases before baking or using boolits that could be covered up past the ogive would have worked better. :coffeecom

[Yodogsandman]

The nose flashing doesn't seem to be a problem, the 9mm cases formed with a .357 die fit like a glove. 7 cases fell off in the quench, most came off easily with a twist, two needed some grunting and tugging, and one needed to be twisted off with water pump pliers. No excessive nose flashing.

I had one bad row of boolits with a see through coating on one side. I got zapped somehow as I turned the bullet tray and quickly decided not to repeat it. Stung me good! I might have lost ground by lifting as I turned the tray. The shock was to my right hand with the PC gun in it. Though it seemed like it was my trigger finger. If so I might have to plastic coat the trigger. I think I touched the side of the foil covered cardboard box I use as a booth. I might use that row of boolits to try lubing them.

[Yodogsandman]

apidaho, I don't have the Lee 309-180F, I do have the Lee 309-170F. A fired .30 carbine shell is just a few thousands over. If you had a supply of them and a sizing die, I think a sized case would fit good. Kinda long, though but, they can be cut off. I tried one on a Lee 309-170F and it's just a little loose. Same for a Lyman 311291, Lee 312-113F and RCBS 30-180S. I think bullet size for .30 carbine is .307" so a sizer die would size it down to .305" ID. The fired .30 carbine case measured .310" ID. A tubing cutter might reduce the case enough, too. I only have a few .30 carbine cases, because of picking up range brass years ago.

I tried to run a 380 auto case and the .30 carbine case into a 30-30 sizer die but, they're too short to reduce the OD. A reduced in size 380 auto would be perfect, I think.

[fcvan]

I started ESPC my gas check shanked 30 cal boolits using fender washers. I affixed the washers to a piece of sheet metal using high temp permatex, stacking 2 washers to get the right depth for the shank. I cover with non stick aluminum foil and coat/bake. I've found this works best for my 22 and 30 cal shanked boolits. Quick, efficient, repeatable coverage. For pistol boolits, I have recently been doing tumble coating with airsoft BBs using powders recently purchased from Prismatic Powders. I'm still testing the colors I purchased with Sparkle Pink and Fools Penny working fantastic for tumble coating. The Pink took 2 coats, the Fools Penny working like no tomorrow with one coat. Copper Jacket did not tumble but stuck like glue using ESPC. Next, I will try Ink Black as a tumble and it looks to be a good candidate.

Fools Penny is a top coat Copper color, designed to work over a silver finish. It added a slight amount of Copper color but completely coated with a smooth shiny finish quite easily. I will try it ESPC but may just dedicate it for PC for plinkers as it coats so well with little effort, tumble wise. I will likely try the Pink through the ESPC gun just because I'll want as pretty a coat as I can get. I doubt I will do a lot of Pink, but I do have a whole pound of the stuff. BTW, I use a Lee 1cc dipper to scoop 3ccs of powder for 50 9mm 125 boolits, 4ccs for 50 180 40 cal boolits. This is giving a consistent tumble coat with the Cool Whip tub and 2 layers thick of ASBBs.

[gpidaho]

I may be in the minority, but Sparkle Farkle isn't a priority for me. I would do well with commercial shop over spray. Using this as a lube alternative has a lot of potential. Getting it where I want it and not where I don't is my goal. GP

[Yodogsandman]

Same here, used HF red at the onset because I bought a used HF ES PC and thats what was in it. Now, I'm using out-of-date powder from a shop.

A cut off .223 is too big for .30 caliber noses, about .320". Shoulda checked the SKS boolits for fit, bet the unsized .30 carbine would work for those!

[fcvan]

Sparkle Farkle, I'll have to try that! Seriously though, the pink as a lark purchase because one of my wife's friends is a pink freak and I was already ordering other colors. I've been quite happy with the ESPC gun and flat black from Harbor Freight. I got the Ink Black to tumble coat and it is mirror shiny deep black but I think it will actually be best ESPC.

The Copper Jacket coats well but doesn't look like bright copper, more like tarnished copper. I've found that mixing the bright pink into the copper made it look more like a jacket which will work well when I shoot at an indoor range that frowns upon plain lead. Tumble coating with the Fools Penny will be just fine for bulk handgun boolits because it coats so well at one shot, coats many, and works even when it is humid.

BTW, I save my over spray and have often reused it. Now that I am doing many colors I'm sure I will get some sort of muddy brown eventually. It doesn't really matter what color they are, it matters how clean the bore is, how little smoke is involved, and how accurately they shoot. I'm looking forward to receiving the Neon Lime Green just so I can make Zombie boolits for my friends. THis powder coating thing is FUN!