Newbie wants a Star sizer - needs some support for understanding!

[jayjay1]

Hey folks,
what would you say, that is needed to start with the Star sizer?

I´m looking forward to get into this, but want to get the starting costs fixed and do have some understanding problems.
So I hope it is ok, if I just ask some questions and you guys will help me out?


Of course I need the sizer itself and a die (from lathesmith, what I´ve read here), but what else for one caliber?

"Heated base": Is this temperature regulated or not?
(Have been using a thick alu-plate which I screwed under my LAMII and laid an electric iron on it. If that´s it, what the Magma heated base does, I don´t need it I suppose?!)
Would you recommend the Star heated base, or don´t I need it, or would you recommend another one?

What is the "conversion" for?

Are there seating stems with the dies, or do I have to buy them extra?

Do I have to buy a "die puller" extra or does it come with the sizer?

I´ve heard elsewhere, that the Star doesn´t run with any lube, but do normally use my own.
What´s to consider about that?

Would you recommend anything else for the Star sizer, just to start with it and being not frustrated in the beginning, did I forget anything?


Well, I know, that are a lot questions, but they came by searching and reading around and I didn´t find answers.
I just don´t want to get me the Star sizer and it wouldn´t run for some reason.
I hope you will understand, that it would frustrate me terribly, because of 2 weeks or more waiting for just a small "anything" to get shipped over here to Germany to fix a problem.


Hoping and begging for help,
Jay
:drinks:

[6bg6ga]

I would suggest reading ALL the information in the Star section.

Buy a new Magma same as the star.

Die by Lathesmith

Buy Magma's heater and base plate if your unwilling to make your own setup.

The NEW Magma will come with the die puller.

With the heater ANY lube can be used.

There, I have answered a bunch of your questions.

[6bg6ga]

You can do like a lot of us have done and make your own PID controlled heater setup. There is a lot of info on this forum complete with manufacturers and part numbers.

The Mypin PID control is cost effective and a lot of people are using them. The Auber PID is more expensive but it programs easier. I went with the Auber and a 300 watt heating element myself.

[6bg6ga]

You can do like a lot of us have done and make your own PID controlled heater setup. There is a lot of info on this forum complete with manufacturers and part numbers.

The Mypin PID control is cost effective and a lot of people are using them. The Auber PID is more expensive but it programs easier. I went with the Auber and a 300 watt heating element myself.

Check this heater http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HKK33A/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[jayjay1]

There, I have answered a bunch of your questions.

And I highly appreciate this!
:drinks:

So if I´ve understood you right, the Star sizer isn´t the same as the actual Magma?
I´ve meant this one:
http://www.magmaengineering.com/products/magma-star-lube-sizer/

Very good to hear, that any lube can be used with the heater, great!
:smile:


So thanks a bunch, 6bg6ga!!
[smilie=s:

[6bg6ga]

There are several very small differences between the Star and the Magma. I have both. One difference is the Star is painted and the Magma isn't.

[6bg6ga]

The Magma is the newer version of the Star. They are the same.

[6bg6ga]

Picture of both on my aluminum plate. Turn the plate 180 and re-install the heater and probe and the other one is ready to size.

110779

[6bg6ga]

You will need punches to go with the different dies or you can do as I do and have Lathesmith make you a custom two piece punch. I use the two piece punch that is aproximately .350 diameter for my 357's, 38's, 44's, and 45's

[jayjay1]

Thanks a lot 6bg6ga,
as I have never seen or worked with a Star / Magma - sizer, I unfortunately don´t understand your setup, but it is good looking so.
:oops:

I´ve sent a PM to Lathesmith and hope he will answer.

Is he having a website or something?

[HATCH]

When you order your die from Chris (lathesmith), order a matching flat punch and a locking nut.
The locking but had a set screw so you can lock it in place.
I have a punch and locknut for ever mold i have. This allows me to quickly change dies.

This feature is now a moot point since I am coating all my boolits and don't need to work about getting the lube grooves lined up.

[jayjay1]

Again, how can I reach Chris / lathesmith?

Does he have his own website?

[MT Chambers]

He's the first guy on this forum with a "sticky" "star dies that I make".......I use Stars heater and their air unit, all this equip. may seem expensive but it is the best stuff out there!

[6bg6ga]

If you check out the sticky star section you will find that if you wish to make your own heater and air cylinder setup its very easy and the savings will purchase more dies and such.

[Stonecrusher]

I want one too! For now I will have to make do with my Lyman 450. At least I recently realized one of my dreams and acquired a Dillon 550. The Star is next on my list.

Make that two dreams. I also bought a Forster Co-Ax from a fellow member. Thanks to IllinoisCoyoteHunter for making it happen by taking that smelly old RCBS Big Max off my hands. Kind of miss it though. Had it for about 25 years and it was one big honking strong press!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

GruB Gott,

If you're ordering a bullet sizer from Magma, I suggest you go ahead and order a bullet feeder from them as well and an air cylinder setup to help you automate it later on. This will save you a bit on shipping this items if you find you want them later (and you will, trust me on this).

Because of the voltage outlet difference, I would build my own lube heater using the suggestions/methods mentioned on this forum. It will work better and have better control and possibly be less expensive.

Also, Chris (Lathesmith) is a member of this forum. You can contact him by going to the "attached" threads at the top of this forum. Here's a link to his:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?34499-Star-dies-that-I-make

I hope this helps you meine freund. Note: Ich habe dreieinhalb Jahre im Mainz, Deutschland mit wir US Armee.

Tschüss

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

jayjay, some answers in red in the quote.


Hey folks,
what would you say, that is needed to start with the Star sizer see my other post for this

I´m looking forward to get into this, but want to get the starting costs fixed and do have some understanding problems.
So I hope it is ok, if I just ask some questions and you guys will help me out? Buy as much as possible from magma at the first purchase and save money on shipping would be your best decision.


Of course I need the sizer itself and a die (from lathesmith, what I´ve read here), but what else for one caliber? A punch to push the bullet through the die. Lathesmith provides these as well, they are excellent quality.

"Heated base": Is this temperature regulated or not? Yes, but better to make your own.
(Have been using a thick alu-plate which I screwed under my LAMII and laid an electric iron on it. If that´s it, what the Magma heated base does, I don´t need it I suppose?!) This will work with a Star, but your best results would be to make the one they suggest for you. Much better quality control and Stars benefit from this the most.

Would you recommend the Star heated base, or don´t I need it, or would you recommend another one? Build your own with a controller attached for very precise temperature control. Not that expensive and worth it.

What is the "conversion" for? To convert the feeder from one caliber to another for different bullet calibers.

Are there seating stems with the dies, or do I have to buy them extra? There are only top punches for Star dies, a seating steam would be to "seat" the bullet in a brass case. You are most likely confusing terminology.

Do I have to buy a "die puller" extra or does it come with the sizer? Does not come with size, but buy one from Lathesmith, it is better made.

I´ve heard elsewhere, that the Star doesn´t run with any lube, but do normally use my own.
What´s to consider about that? It runs with standard lubes, including ones you make. Remove the pressure handle, insert lube. You can even melt the lube and pour it in slowly and get good fill with no air pockets.

Would you recommend anything else for the Star sizer, just to start with it and being not frustrated in the beginning, did I forget anything? I would order the air cylinder, the bullet feeder and whatever caliber conversions you may use in the future. More costly up front, but save money down the road when you don't have to order anything else from Magma. International shipping can be expensive.

Well, I know, that are a lot questions, but they came by searching and reading around and I didn´t find answers. I was taught the only dumb or bad question was a question not asked. People cannot help one another one no one knows anyone needs help.


I just don´t want to get me the Star sizer and it wouldn´t run for some reason. Smart man, keep reading this forum, all the posts about Stars in it. When you get your Star and have problems, ask for help here.

I hope you will understand, that it would frustrate me terribly, because of 2 weeks or more waiting for just a small "anything" to get shipped over here to Germany to fix a problem. You probably won't have failure/breakage problems with a Star. But it's better to order as much as possible in one order so you have it when you're setting your Star up to run.


Hoping and begging for help, No need to beg, we'll help with just question asked. Thanks yous are good, I've said them many times.
Jay
:drinks:

[jayjay1]

Hallo Dave,
:D
all questions answered, what a super service, thanks a lot!

Great info and I think I´m good to go now.

I have contacted Chris / lathesmith and will order as soon as we are clear.

Thanks to all of you, Gentlemen,
my best wishes to ya,
Jay
[smilie=w:

[jayjay1]

Hey Sgt. Mike,
sorry, but I have no idea what you mean with a purple thingy!?

But thanks for the wishes.

Have another question:
If I´m lubesizing bullets with only one lube groove, I don´t need to measure it out, right?

I can set the size higher or lower and it will work!?

[youngmman]

Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone thinking of buying a Magma/Star Sizer. I was on the phone with Magma the other day ordering a Master Pot and in a general conversation I mentioned I bought my Star from Star in the mid 80's and I was surprised to see so many on e bay at what seemed like a good price relative to the new ones from them. Apparently a lot of them sold on e bay are damaged and that's why they are for sale. They are bought on e bay then sent to Magma for repair. She said they had quite a few they hadn't been able to get to fixing.

[6bg6ga]

I'm going to disagree with some of what has been said.

With respect to the air cylinder that takes the place of the Star Pressure Screw Assembly (standard)

It is FAR more cost effective to purchase an air cylinder on line than it is to purchase the whole assembly from Magma.

The PN for the air cylinder is as follows NCMB106-600 from the SMC corp or similar.

The parts needed from Magma are as follows...AF107 Piston, S107 Hycar Washer, S130 Pressure Spring Steel Washer, and AF108 Hycar Washer mounting screw.

[6bg6ga]

With respect to the heater from Magma.....my opinion is its a joke. Buy a PID, heater, thermocouple and you have the basics for making your own heater that no only will perform better but will cost less. I recommend going to a salvage yard and purchasing a piece of scrap 1/2" aluminum for use as a bottom plate in which to mount the press and install the heater and thermocouple in. Mine was less than $20

The MAgma is shipped with a S101 die extractor which includes all the parts needed to remove the dies from the machine.

I will recommend purchasing the bullet feeder assembly because its probably cheaper than making your own if you figure your time in.

[6bg6ga]

Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone thinking of buying a Magma/Star Sizer. I was on the phone with Magma the other day ordering a Master Pot and in a general conversation I mentioned I bought my Star from Star in the mid 80's and I was surprised to see so many on e bay at what seemed like a good price relative to the new ones from them. Apparently a lot of them sold on e bay are damaged and that's why they are for sale. They are bought on e bay then sent to Magma for repair. She said they had quite a few they hadn't been able to get to fixing.

You can buy junk anyplace but if you take advantage of their warranty you can return these so called non-working units. I purchased a used Star as my second of this type. It was full of hardened lube with was probably in excess of 30 years old. Instead of trying to heat it up I simply filled it with new lube and removed the removable clean out plugs and pumped two stickes thru the sizer until it was 100% clean. I painted it and dedicated it to 38/357's and with the two piece punch it sizes everything in that caliber.

[jayjay1]

Well, I´m a German mason / bricklayer master (Maurermeister for Dave :D).

What means I´m good with my hands, but not so if the game gets too small.
Electrics are not mine too, so I have to go with the Magma heated base or must take a look if I can find someone who makes me one.
Could build a house for that, the German way, massive with concrete and stones, a swimming pool or building up a unique massive grill out of rocks ..... ;-)

To be serious, maybe I have someone who can make me a heater plate, but therefore I do need the measurements of it.

Is there any plan around where the measurements and the holes are evident?


Cheers with beers,
Jay :drinks:

[jayjay1]

Sgt. Mike,
I love sarcasm, but unfortunately can´t enjoy it if I don´t understand the meaning.
:wink:

But to explain it would be much more worse than not to know what it means, so....
... if we both don´t tell anybody, no one will notice it.
[smilie=p: :sad:[smilie=1::-D


Best wishes,
Jay
:drinks:

[6bg6ga]

Well, I´m a German mason / bricklayer master (Maurermeister for Dave :D).

What means I´m good with my hands, but not so if the game gets too small.
Electrics are not mine too, so I have to go with the Magma heated base or must take a look if I can find someone who makes me one.
Could build a house for that, the German way, massive with concrete and stones, a swimming pool or building up a unique massive grill out of rocks ..... ;-)

To be serious, maybe I have someone who can make me a heater plate, but therefore I do need the measurements of it.

Is there any plan around where the measurements and the holes are evident?


Cheers with beers,

Jay :drinks:




I believe there is a person on the forum that makes complete PID units. The size of the aluminum plate is of your choice. I used the base of the Star and Magma sizers for my drill pattern for my plate. I used a thermocouple with a diameter of 1/8" and drilled a 1/8" hole the same depth as the probe. I used a 1/4" diameter 4" long heater and drilled a 4" depth hole 1/4" diameter. I located the heater right under the sizer between the bolt holes on the side and my probe came in the opposite side of the plate. My plate measures 10.5 X 10.5 and as I mentioned is scrap 6061T6 1/2" thick aluminum.

I use a C clamp or two to clamp my plate to my bench. I used 3) 1/4-20 countersunk headed screws to mount my sizer. So you will need a drill bit for the probe/thermocouple and the heater in my case it was 1/8" and 1/4" for them. The drill for the 1/4-20 screws is according to a drill/tap chart and the tap is a 1/4-20 like I mentioned. In short if you can build a house you can drill a few holes and tap 3 of them.

As I mentioned I have two sizers mounted on my aluminum plate and I just turn the plate 180 degrees and I have a different sizer in a different caliber ready to be used. I swap the bullet feeder from one press to another and make the caliber change on the feeder and I'm ready to go.

My heater is a 300 watt and is plenty big enough to warm the plate quickly in the winter when my reloading room is cold.

[6bg6ga]

You had asked about caliber conversions...

With respect to the bullet feeder it is possible to use a 45 caliber and insert a piece of plastic tubing in it like I did and not have to change to a different feed bar or feed tube. It just depends on how creative you with to be. In my case I used a 45 caliber feed tube with the plastic tube inside it and a piece of plastic cut for the feeder bar to do 9mm, 38, and 357's. So, you do not need to purchase a caliber change setup for every caliber.

The same hold true to the punches. Some here wish to have a punch and lock nut made up for every change. I have found that I can do it with one two piece punch. The two piece punch that is smaller than the smallest caliber I shoot works with everything I run thru the sizer.

I kept measurements for each setup and its a simple matter to adjust the two piece punch just a tad if needed.

[jayjay1]

Thank you, 6bg6ga, so far.

Could you please tell me what the "two piece punch" is?

Another question is coming up:
Dia of the sizing die, shouldn´t be to small because of the lack of accuracy, shouldn´t be to big, because of getting messy bullets.

Someone told me I should order the dies 0,005" bigger in dia. than needed, because of the shrinkage of the lead?
Is this true?

[6bg6ga]

Thank you, 6bg6ga, so far.

Could you please tell me what the "two piece punch" is?

Another question is coming up:
Dia of the sizing die, shouldn´t be to small because of the lack of accuracy, shouldn´t be to big, because of getting messy bullets.

Someone told me I should order the dies 0,005" bigger in dia. than needed, because of the shrinkage of the lead?
Is this true?

Well, you know what a one piece punch looks like. It has a threaded portion that screws into the sizer. A two piece punches end screws into the sizer just like a one piece punch but it has a body with an internal thread and a body with an external thread. The lower portion of the punch can be screwed in or out to affect overall length. For example I might have say 1" of the puch sticking out if the punch has both pieces screwed together tight and the overall length will increase if I unscrew the bottom portion of the punch therefore I can make the punch length bigger or small as desired. It makes small adjustments so easy.

I generally order a die .001 or .0015 larger than the bullet mold. It all depends on how the barrel slugs. When reloading one should cast some and then shove an unsized bullet down the barrel and mic it and order your molds and dies based on that information.

[jayjay1]

The die larger than the mold, really?

If the die is larger, it can´t size, so whatfor do you want to have that?

[VHoward]

I generally order my sizing die .002" larger than what the barrel of the gun I'm going to shoot the bullets out of is. I have a 357 magnum revolver that the barrel slugged at .356. So I ordered a sizing die for .358. The mold I use throws bullets at .359 to .360 ( one cavity throws .001 smaller than the other three).

And no, It doesn't make sense to order the sizing die bigger than what the mold throws.

[6bg6ga]

The die larger than the mold, really?

If the die is larger, it can´t size, so whatfor do you want to have that?

not what I meant to say....sorry.

[jayjay1]

not what I meant to say....sorry.

Don´t bother about that, just wanted to understand your saying.

You did help me a lot inhere as I´m new to this "sport".
I appreciate this pretty much.
:drinks:

[jayjay1]

And another question, sorry....
:oops:

I´ve read now a loooooooot of freds inhere about the heated base-plate.
Ok so far, I think a PID-controlled version is the way to go for me.

But I can´t find anyone, who offers one.

Does someone inhere know a guy who sells them?
:-)

[6bg6ga]

Someone here on the forum will be able to find the link to the PID sales.


If not then check this out

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic


I used an old computer power supply box for my enclosure. I used the Auber unit instead of the Mypin unit but to each his own.

Its so simple a child can put one together. There are threads showing the wiring diagrams and part numbers which will guide you in purchasing the correct parts.

If you can build with brick and stone this WILL come easy to you. Use the savings to buy more dies and punches for your sizer.

[jayjay1]

All right, I´ve found someone over here, who will make me one.

I´ve found plans here on the forum, where the measurements for the holes are shown, too.

But in this plans, there is no bullet feeder respected, so I want to ask you to tell me the outer dimensions of the base plate with the bullet feeder, please.

[mike daniels]

what is a good price on the star lubra sizer ?

[6bg6ga]

what is a good price on the star lubra sizer ?

Some people are caught up in the idea they need to get a Star sizer lubricator. The Magma is the same machine with several small differences. The Magma sells new for $325.00 and I've seen used Star's sell from anywhere from $150 to $300.

I have both and can see no difference between them. They use the same top punches and bottom dies as well as the bullet feeder and air cylinder to pressurize the lube.

[ReloaderFred]

Magma recently lowered their price for the Star Sizer, but it no longer comes with the top punch or sizing die. The base price for the new machine is now $275.00. Here is the link to their current price sheet: http://www.magmaengineering.com/pricesheet.html

Hope this helps.

Fred

[jayjay1]

I don´t think so, this seems to be a very old price.

Have paid 338 Dollars for my new star (which already arrived now).
:bigsmyl2:

[6bg6ga]

I found this

http://www.magmaengineering.com/component/banners/click/14/


and clicking on the price list I come up with the same list Fred has

[chloe123]

Not trying to be argumentative here , but, it's not 275$


it may have been and likely was if that was published;however, it's currently 338$. Of course, there's a reliable way to verify pricing.

[6bg6ga]

If you click on my link it shows $325.00 and if you do some reading it says the price could change without notice. So I wouldn't be surprised if it was $338.00

[jayjay1]

Just paid 338$ five days ago, so...

[pjh421]

6bg6ga,
I noticed in an old post that you were developing an improved feed mechanism for the Star lubrisizer. Is that still in progress?

Paul

[6bg6ga]

6bg6ga,
I noticed in an old post that you were developing an improved feed mechanism for the Star lubrisizer. Is that still in progress?

Paul

Paul,

I haven't had time to work on it lately but probably will this winter and will update then.

[jayjay1]

Got my sizer, waiting for the dies from lathesmith and a heated plate from a buddy over here.

I played a little around with the star and found this huge brass screw, on the left side at the bottom.

What is this for?

[6bg6ga]

Got my sizer, waiting for the dies from lathesmith and a heated plate from a buddy over here.

I played a little around with the star and found this huge brass screw, on the left side at the bottom.

What is this for?

Leave it alone... the Magma will self destruct if you touch it.

Its just a clean out and you'll never need it unless you plan on putting your sizer on the shelf for 30 years and the lube hardens. If that happens its just easier to put a fresh stick in and cycle the machine with no sizing die installed. I bought a 50 year old Star that someone hadn't used for 35 years and it had some kind of home made lube in it that no heater would loosen up or melt. I finally ran 1.5 sticks of lube thru it with the clean out plugs removed and it pushed all the old stuff out.

[jayjay1]

Oh, dissapointing, such a nice *Bling-Bling* screw...
:oops:

[jayjay1]

Hello again!

Star sizer is here and worked pretty well with Lathesmith´s lubecalibrating dies.

Have lubesized with a pretty weak lube, without any problems.
But that stuff was very smoky, so I´ve switched over today to a harder lube (Vaseline, Parafin, Beeswax, each 1/3rd).

So I had to turn up the pressure a little bit and gave ´em some heat (85° F).

The lube came out of the upper side of the die, while I was lubesizing.
Taking down pressure or heat didn´t fill the lube grooves nicely, the lube got a white and dull "ring" on the upper side of the groove.

The O-rings have been damaged a bit because of changing the dies for three calibers.
Is it just to put in the new O-rings, or is there more what can be done?

Have I to change the O-rings every time I change the die?
And where should I set them, on the die or into the sizer´s bumphole?

Sharing your experiences and knowledge would make me a happier man.
:smile:

[6bg6ga]

Hello again!

Star sizer is here and worked pretty well with Lathesmith´s lubecalibrating dies.

Have lubesized with a pretty weak lube, without any problems.
But that stuff was very smoky, so I´ve switched over today to a harder lube (Vaseline, Parafin, Beeswax, each 1/3rd).

So I had to turn up the pressure a little bit and gave ´em some heat (85° F).

The lube came out of the upper side of the die, while I was lubesizing.
Taking down pressure or heat didn´t fill the lube grooves nicely, the lube got a white and dull "ring" on the upper side of the groove.

The O-rings have been damaged a bit because of changing the dies for three calibers.
Is it just to put in the new O-rings, or is there more what can be done?

Have I to change the O-rings every time I change the die?
And where should I set them, on the die or into the sizer´s bumphole?

Sharing your experiences and knowledge would make me a happier man.
:smile:

I gave up on the o-rings and don't use them anymore and it doesn't leak either. Results may vary with machines.

Slowly turn up the pressure and see if it makes a difference. Do one thing at a time. Try increasing pressure and see if there is a change and if not return the pressure to its original setting and turn up the heat a few degrees and try it.

On mine when I an showing a whitish groove fill I turn up the pressure and it fills with a nice color. There are no absolutes unfortunately and experience may be the only teacher.

[jayjay1]

Experience is always the best teacher, but it comes slowly.
Thank you for the infos.

Well, normally I don´t want to be a know-it-all, but the phrase "experience may be the only teacher" brought me to an old chinese saying.

"The idiot never learns it,
the clever one learns through experience,
but the wise man,
he learns through the experiences others have made before him."

My goal is not to be an idiot as often as I can.


Cheers,
Jay
:drinks:

[Lead Fred]

Oldie dont need no fancy machine to do what a $2 cake pan has been doin for decades

[HATCH]

I use a oversize o-ring. I cut a piece out of it so when I put the ends together its the right size.
It allows me to insert and remove dies easily.
It prevents 99% of the leaks. I am one of the unlucky ones that without the o-ring my star will leak lube regardless of the maker of the die itself (Chris or Magma)

[jayjay1]

Oldie dont need no fancy machine to do what a $2 cake pan has been doin for decades

If the Oldie is fancy sizelubing 2.000 bullets an hour this way, he is probably righty-right.

But me nooby doesn´t have the time to swing the pan...
:):drinks:

[jayjay1]

I use a oversize o-ring. I cut a piece out of it so when I put the ends together its the right size.
It allows me to insert and remove dies easily.
It prevents 99% of the leaks. I am one of the unlucky ones that without the o-ring my star will leak lube regardless of the maker of the die itself (Chris or Magma)

Where do you set this rings and how do you fix them, so that they don´t fall of wenn seating the die?

[HATCH]

On my sizer there is a groove in the base of the star

[jayjay1]

At mine too, two grooves, one on the top and one on the bottom.

So you set it into the star´s groove, but how do you fix it?

I mean it should come out when setting the die, not?

[HATCH]

I do the top groove. It doesn't come out when I remove the die or it hasn't the past 5 times.
I do everything is batches.
If I am casting I do two coffee cans.
When I am sizing, I size two coffee cans.
This means for some I have a 6 months supply and for others a year.
The setup time for the Master Caster and the star is the same to do 100 boolits or 10000 boolits.
So I try to do large batches so the setup time is worth while.

Its kinda like if the wife sends me to the store for a gallon of milk, I don't just come home with one gallon.

[jayjay1]

Of course I normally do too.

But having the sizer new and got three different new dies, I tried a little bit back and forth, also to check out the size of the dies, etc..

Wth!
Two coffee cans casting, that´s a lot!
How long do you need for this?

[HATCH]

Well I cast for my dad, myself and my brother Ray. Two coffee cans sounds like a lot but when I load I fill up two 30 cal cans.
I have these 4*6 thick plastic zip locks and bag the loaded rounds 50 per bag. Two bags per row and between 400 and 500 per can.
On bigger rounds like 38/40,44/40, 45 colt I can only fit 300 per can.
On smaller rounds like 9x18, 22 TCM I can fit almost 800 to 1000

[jayjay1]

Well, that´s a lot.

I´m casting for three hours max., then I´m getting tired and lose the fun, so I stop it.
I´m doing one 1ltr. big yoghurt cup normally, of any pistol cartridge I shoot (9mm, 40 and 45), maybe the half what you do.

Although I´m using 4 or 6cav. molds, I´m not faster.
There´s a lot of time needed to preheat the lead, flux and clean it, get it hot again after refilling and so on.

I use a hotplate for preheating the lead (getting rid of any water and make it hot) and for heating the mold when I´m refilling and fluxing the pots.
I use a LEE pot to premelt and mix, for filling my casting pot.
And I do use a second pot (RCBS) with which I only cast.

[HATCH]

well, I don't get tired of casting -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-opimEGO_4&list=UUjfulQR8ZtMagZ0A7M95bXg
That was doing HPs. Normally it just a single tap

Keep in mind that I may not cast for a particular caliber once a year. For example I got 3 coffee cans full of 41 mag boolits (sized and lubed) and two ammo cans full. I doubt I will cast for that caliber this year.

Its all about time. My time is best spent if I do everything in batches. During the summer, I am really busy with the kids. Most winters are mild here so in the fall to the spring I am busy in the shop.
I had a huge push last year to get my dad's loaded ammo supplies up to acceptable levels. Right now my dad has enough loaded ammo to last him for a year or more. So I been focusing on casting 2 Coffee cans of boolits for all 14 calibers. This way when I finally have time to load for me, i can regardless of the caliber I want to load.

[jayjay1]

Lol, I see you don´t get tired when the machine is working for you.
:)

Btw., I´m shooting seven calibers, reloading six and casting three (pistol calibers).
Sometimes I think those seven are too much to do them righty-right.

But have to say, that I´m shooting a lot in IPSC, every season in another Division and caliber.
With this current IPSC pistol I´m always very familiar and shoot best with it.

When I´m switching, just for staying trained with other guns, to another pistol, I´m always a littel dissapointed, being not that good as with my competition gun.
Shooting rifle is always a different story for me.
Wouldn´t say that I´m a bad rifle shooter, but my skills are waaaay different than with my handguns.

I´m sure that 14 calibers with 14 different guns would drive me nuts.
:veryconfu

:drinks:

[HATCH]

Well its more then 14 different guns.
For the most part, my guns shoot better then I shoot. So any variance between the weapons when it comes to ammo characteristics aren't really noticed by me.

[jayjay1]

For the most part, my guns shoot better then I shoot. So any variance between the weapons when it comes to ammo characteristics aren't really noticed by me.

Oh, I´m sure all my guns do... :sad:

Some guys can take any gun into their hands, anyway what the trigger, ergonomics, sights, etc., are and do a good shooting.
Unfortunately not me, I have to do training to get better with my results, switching to another gun degrades my results every time when I´m beginnig.
So I do shoot always seriously competition with only one pistol every season.

Sometimes I think, I should reduce it to only one pistol and only one rifle and do all the training and shooting with this two.
But then I see another gun, want to have it, and am healed again.
:mrgreen:

[jayjay1]

Hey there!

Got my airfeed - thingy today by mail from Denmark.
[smilie=w:

But have no idea what this little black cap with a hole in it is good for.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Star-Lube-Sizer-Air-Lube-Feed-Kit-/131175660974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8aadbdae&nma=true&si=kb7TuPM5jh9PZv2rlq1U0g9Z5xE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Look at the picture in the middle, that black cap on the top at the right side.

Can someone please tell me what that is good for?

[chloe123]

Ruling out the obvious: it's not the pressure regulator?


( I have the factory air kit. The assemblage on top of the piston assembly is basically the coupler input housing and air P regulator)

[jayjay1]

On the RIGHT side, not the left.
:smile:

[HATCH]

114095

That is a homemade kit.
I am not 100% sure what it is for.
I am gonna guess that it goes under the cap.

Top left - pressure regulator - should screw directly into cap
Top right - plunger
Middle left - clamp holds rubber peice (to the right) over the vent hole that is back of star sizer.
Middle right - o-ring. This goes inside cap to seal it up?? or could be spare O-ring for plunger??
Bottom - this is the tool to remove the plunger when adding more lube.

Are they washers??
Its hard to tell in the picture but they could be spare washers

I would contact the original seller and ask them what it is.

[jayjay1]

Hey Hatch!
I did and he replied real quickly.

This cap goes on top of the lube pipe, under the original pressure screw nut (S109), it´s to make it airtight at the top.

He sent me a link to a nice instruction so:
http://www.andersen.asia/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/installation-manual1.pdf

[6bg6ga]

jayjay1

There are threads about making your own air setup if you wish not to purchase the air cylinder. I wish I had known you were thing about buying that piece of junk and I would have talked you out of it.

[jayjay1]

Well, now, me too.
:smile:

[HATCH]

Don't get the wrong idea. What you purchased will work but its not the correct way to do it.

[youngmman]

I bought my Star in the mid-1980's directly from Star after using a Saeco once. I have never regretted it but they recommended sizing the bullets nose first so I have only used flat punches about .002" smaller than the die. I do have a Magma heater that I love because the setting is sensitive and responds to minor adjustments well. Having an air pressure device for the lube and a bullet feeder would speed things up but, frankly, I go fast enough with the way it is for my taste. It gives me time for one more bullet inspection before it goes into the box ready to load.

[Blacktail 8541]

I just posted a new in box Star in the buy and sell area. This is a San Diego made star with original instructions for $300

[jayjay1]

I just posted a new in box Star in the buy and sell area. This is a San Diego made star with original instructions for $300

Got mine and am happy, best invested money in casting so far.

Best of luck to you!

[enfieldphile]

I bought a set of O Rings from Harbor Freight. Either the SAE or the Metric set will do. There's a size in there that will fit. I lightly rub "Sno Seal" on the die when installing it. It slips in W/O tearing the O Ring. I think any light, Carnuba wax will do. Just a light coat is needed.

When using Chris's (Lathesmith) fine tools, get the locknut w/ the Allen set-screw. To keep the threads from being marred by the Allen screw, put a piece of lead shot under the Allen screw. You could even put a tiny piece of solid plumbing solder or a bit of lead from a wheelweight under the set-screw as a coushion.

Get the little spring kit from EBay to keep the handle from falling. Some guys experiment and find a spring @ Lowes, Home Depot etc. to work.

There is a learning curve w/ the Magma / Star. Once it's figured out, you're T-Totally HOOKED! ;)

[MT Chambers]

For me, I will never damage an o-ring taking out or putting in dies because I have the heat turned up for the changeover.

[jayjay1]

That´s a good point.

Meanwhile I became a coater and mostly size without o-ring/lube, makes things easier, less messy and safer I suppose (no lead handeling).
Only my old 38 and 45 loads I´m still doing with lead bullets, but I will try them coated too and see what happens.

I highly recommend coating now, should have changed earlier.
Presses, guns and hands are cleaner, so the air on the range probably is.

I´ts not a big problem to coat for the one who is able to cast good boolits, he will learn it in one or two sessions.
Just a little bit of trial and error.

With coated bullets you even don´t need any lubesizer.
A lot of guys turned their single stage presses upside down (Rockchucker etc.) and adapted a LEE sizing die, letting the sized coated bullets fall into a bucket.
Very easy to be done.
I´m doing the same with my high-prized star sizer now, without any effort in this, so....

[HATCH]

I still use my star press. I automated it so all I have to do is load the feed tubes and push a button.
If I had a unlimited amount of loaded tubes then I could size 1800 per hour with me just changing tubes every 50 boolits and hitting a button.

I run two timers. One does the cycle (set for 2 sec) and one does how long it runs. So if the tubes hold 50 boolits then my run timer would be 102 seconds.
I add 2 seconds because sometimes I have 49 boolits in the tube and some times I have 51