Billet 2011 cnc project

[rossrods]

Hey folks. I've been playing around with this for a few months working on it here and there. Originally it started out as a cad drawing from grab cad. I've milled one 2011 frame from billet but ran into cost issues and decided to do another with a little different direction. The original 2011 model was for sti magazines with a Wilson nowlin ramp with the tactical rail underneath. First mod to the cad was to convert from STI magazine configuration to a single stack 1911 non ramped config. Reasons for this was purely economical, and 1911 parts are easier to get and a little more frugal I should say. I then took the cad from a 1911 model and married it to the outline of the 2011 frame. So what this means is its a 2011 frame with a 1911 magazine in which it can accept normal single stack mags and it's attached just like a 2011/STI would fit together. Oh ya it has the tactical rail underneath also. This is my first attempt at doing a 1911 or 2011 so I was just wanting to use frugal parts from sarco so I had to make the cad work for what I was wanting to do. My choice of calibres is the 40 s&w, 38 super, and a 7.62x25 in which I'm really leaning towards the 7.62 shooting a .308 bullet. I know it's not American LOL. But my idea is to use 5.56 cases cut down to the tokerov dims. Then use .308 110 grainers or .32 calibre drawn down to .308. There is a source for 7.62 barells for 1911's believe it it not. I've not decided which calibre thou. It's a little less expensive to go with the 38 super then convert to 7.62. Anyways I'm posting so you guys will keep on me to finish this. My spine is shot with a genetic spine diease so I work on this when I can. I need a little push from you guys to geter done LOL.

[DeanWinchester]

Awesome work!!

7,62x25 gets my vote hands down. Definitely different and very cool.

[jmorris]

Looks like very nice work! How do you plan to attach the grip to the frame, in the rear? The STI metal grips had problems with cracking and the SVI grips are a custom fit process.

FWIW I still have one of the now discontinued STI single stack poly grips for the 2011. The mag catch and spacers are the only two different parts to the otherwise double stack grip.

I don't guess you would be interested in sharing your program would you?

[rossrods]

Alright DW 7.62x25 it is. I'm once again fired up about getting back onto this. J Morris not sure what you mean by STI metal grips having problems in the STI. Like I say this is my first 1911/2011 build ever. I'm more than sure there's room for mistakes that's gong to happen. So I need ideas here. Jmorris I'm 5'2" so how can I say this without being to cocky or confident. There was some serious hours put into remodeling these surfaces and getting such to marry up. I'm more than sure the way I have this designed it will hold up just the same as a ar lower to upper, with same strengths. If your a arms inventor you have a date come pick me up LOL. My synopsis is to use 5.56 cases cut down to 7.62x25 with either .308 110 grins. or .32 drawn down bullets. I need a coin name hurry,hurry, 300blackout is taken. How about 300 dragon. Any other names. Tokarev is, well the original. But us Americans we need our own names, plus it's going to have to be shorter in length for it to work in our 1911 mags so that constitutes a name change.

[jmorris]

Jmorris I'm 5'2" so how can I say this without being to cocky or confident. There was some serious hours put into remodeling these surfaces and getting such to marry up. I'm more than sure the way I have this designed it will hold up just the same as a ar lower to upper, with same strengths.

That is a good way to say it. I was just asking how the rear of the grip attaches to the frame? Looks like you might be using the grips themselves? Not enough photos, for me to tell.

It looks like your not using the upper grip bolts/bushings that mate the grip to the frame in the rear, all I can tell from the photo is the front bolt.

This is a thread on STI's metallic grips.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99995&page=1

[bmiller]

Wow! Nice job! Did you make the frame in 2 pieces and tig it together like the cnc guns guy?

[rossrods]

Good observation. Yes the attachment set up isn't finished. It will attach the same as a STI at the upper grip screws, using STI screw bushing set up. And the lower grip screw set up will use 1911 bushings and screws. It's for sure a Frankenstein pistol using both new and old ideas. Kiss method. No reason to reinvent what's working. I still have to cut the other side of the grip, then order both STI mounting screws and 1911 bushing screw set up's. The fit at the upper frame and lower frame has to be hand fitted so I left out the recess holes for mounting grips to make sure everything was fitted as tight as I could get it. My thoughts are this will make for a very rigid structure if fitted tight. You reversed engineered it from photo. Grip has offset fitting into junction of upper frame, leveling everything out not sure how length of screw is going to work out.? I've never seen a STI other than pictures so there may be a glitch at this point.

[rossrods]

My grips are 1/4" thick so hopefully this will help the issue of cracking. Thanks JM for link. The offset is .148 thousandths thick at that junction. I will post a pic showing grip/lower to upper frame fit.?

[rossrods]

110401

Heres the grip to frame fit so far. I have a little more work to do at this point. Also my grip stippling I missed the surface by .004". I will fix this on the other side, then go back and correct on this side. You can tell I missed the surface a little bit.

[rossrods]

No on the tig weld just resurfaced everything together and bought an extremely super long bit to do the recess for the thingamagger to go into lol. I for got the real name of that part. Jason's idea cnc gunsmithing inspired me to try this. So my hats off to Jason.

[jmorris]

It looks very good. My first though from your first photo was that you maybe used a shouldered counter sink Allen shoulder bolt to attach blind (to the outside) to the grip.

Keep us posted, I love this kind of stuff. If you need me to measure anything, let me know I have several ST/SV's.

Incase it got missed, are you willing to share your files?

[rossrods]

Hey guys for those listening in. The bushing screw set up that goes into the bottom of the grip. Is this bushing self threading?(the part that goes into frame) if not what size tap do you use. Also I want to make sure I get info for the standard size not the over size. Thx

[bmiller]

When you cut the dust cover you removed most of the material with a ball end mill ? Then just used the long bit to complete the Nowlin cut? I have 1 sti pistol and would love to make a copy of the frame. On the Brian Enos forum there is a picture of some 1911 pistols from Asia that they altered the grip to be similar to a CZ. Looked pretty cool.

[bmiller]

I remembered I saved a pic on my phone.

[jmorris]

Hey guys for those listening in. The bushing screw set up that goes into the bottom of the grip. Is this bushing self threading?(the part that goes into frame) if not what size tap do you use. Also I want to make sure I get info for the standard size not the over size. Thx

The bushing is threaded, looks like a smooth T nut. It installs from the inside the frame with the shoulder locating the grip to the frame and the button head, socket head cap screw holds it in place.

The lower screw on a 2011\SV does nothing, it is just there for looks.

SV filled the hole when they used poly grips.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/SVI.jpg

I did the same with most of my STI grips.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/openshort.jpg

You are going to have to have something though as your grip is 3 parts not 1.

[rossrods]

110429
Yes, gotcha with the STI configuration. I'm more seeking information as to how the 1911 bushing screw combo works. Will the bottom screw that attaches to frame will it cut it's on threaded hole? Or do you need a tap for this?

[Jupiter7]

110429
Yes, gotcha with the STI configuration. I'm more seeking information as to how the 1911 bushing screw combo works. Will the bottom screw that attaches to frame will it cut it's on threaded hole? Or do you need a tap for this?

Tapped. Bushing tap available from brownells. Neat project, a lot of work to get a single stack though. Hope it works out! You're idea would be a cross between .300blackout and .221fireball, how about .30 Fireball?

[rossrods]

Jupiter so is their a 30 fireball? or is that a name proposal. I like it, there's 300dragon proposal, .30fireball proposal, how does .300fireball, sound. How did advance armament come up with the name 300blackout? Horandy has it as 300whisper/aac. Let's come up with some more names. Then do a vote who knows we may come up with a Catchey name that sticks. Then we can all take credit for a new acheivment? Just remember it's based off 5.56 case like the 300/whisper/aac/blackout. Thx all having fun now!

[rossrods]

Have a special request is their a 1911 expert that could put together a list of parts that I need to order to put this thing together. I was leaning towards a sarco kit, with a para ord. slide in 9mm. May have to go with rock island 38super stuff if I can get it. Remember thou I'm retired due to major health issues so funds are tight. J and G has barrel ready to go in both std1911/and Wilson nowlin STI config. No I do not work for them, they are really nice to talk with thou. I have a STI frame cut also but parts are more expensive. I was wanting to do this on the 1911 std.

BMiller thanks for the pic cool work.

[SOFMatchstaff]

Have you ever fired a Tok in a 1911 platform? There are magazine issues with OAL length and ejection clearance for a loaded round( slide cut)
I have a 1911 in Tok and it has been modified to take M57 mags so that the std length round will fit and feed. the slide is clearance cut to be able to eject a loaded round.

it is an intense little number, I get over 1500 from a 5" bbl and its Noisy.

How about a 762 Rasputin???

[rossrods]

762 Rasputin, there's another to vote on.

No, I've never shot the tok round. My handguns are 9mm.

Yes the standard loaded length round 7.62x25 has issues fitting. However if you load your on you can adjust this col and fill up a 1911 mag. I'm attaching a link to a blog discussing just this. There's some interesting reads in this. Just click on the topic and it will expand. Once again I'm not affiliated with these folks at all. Here's the link. Ps imagine a double stack mag loaded with 26 of these puppies.

http://jggunsmith.wordpress.com/category/7-62x25mm-tokarev/

I have been searching for a round that could load into a 1911 that acted like a rifle round. I make my own 300 blackout cases from once fired military rounds and swage my on RBT bullets, so this will marry in well with what I already do. You do have to do some case thickness mods at the neck. We can discuss this later. I have to order the parts first and build the gun.

[rossrods]

Has anyone ever did the mod to a para LDA slide to make it a single action. There's a way to cut a scallop in the slide. I would imagine this is a ball end mill ran down in there to make this happen. Just curious if anyone has details.

[jmorris]

A 460 Rowland is going to be around the top of a most powerfull 1911 list unless you bring in the old Pachmayr dominator but it's not a semiauto.

If your wanting something fast, it seems like the 7.62x25 doesn't have much to offer.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.62×25mm_Tokarev 90g@1340fps

38 super tops it out of the box no problem.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/.38_Super 90g@1557fps

You mentioned reloading the 9x25 is over 750fps faster with the same weight bullet.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/9×25mm_Dillon 90g@2100fps

For slides I prefer the SV slides as you can swap out breach faces. This allows you to use the same frame and slide for say 9mm and 45 like the one in the photo I posted. Last one I built I used an Essex slide but it took so much extra work I should have picked up a Caspian.

Almost all of SV's parts are machined from billet as well but they also are expensive. Get a Brownells catalog and you will have plenty to pick from.

[jmorris]

This pattern was done with nothing special just had the slide not square with the tool.

[bmiller]

JMorris, do you have a pic of a sv slide with the breach face removed? Was wondering how they did that.

[bmiller]

Rossrods, what cad software are you using? I have been playing with the free version of autodesk 123 to design crude models to print on my 3d printer. When I try to import anything from solidworks it crashes or doesn't recognize the file. Could you recommend a free or inexpensive cad software that would work with the sti files on grabcad or cnc guns?
Thank you

[jmorris]

JMorris, do you have a pic of a sv slide with the breach face removed? Was wondering how they did that.

I don't but it looks like they use a ball end mill. It is held inplace by a special hollow Allen head bolt. You remove the firing pin stop, pin and spring to gain access to it.

[rossrods]

Bmiller I use Rhino exclusively. I was told it's more artsy. lol. Plus I already had Rhino before mastercam. Iges is better to work with if you can find a software that's free that can open this.

[bmiller]

Ross rods, what make of mill did you use to mill the parts? Was it a commercial cnc or a smaller open loop personal mill like a Tormach? Did you make a number of fixtures to hold the work piece? How many times did you have to reposition the work piece? Sorry for all the questions, I am very interested in this subject!

[dsbock]

Rossrods,

Very impressive project. I look forward to seeing it completed.

How about the .300 (or .30) Archangel? Referring to the Soviet port many of the lend-lease shipments went through.

David

[rossrods]

BM I have a Tormach PCNC1100. I at one time had a hurco VM1. I was designing fish bait molds as my health permitted. I needed a little something more challenging that's when I moved into the fire arms challenge. Months ago I mentioned a ar300wm then low and behold the nemo came out.
Yes I have multiple jigs to hold things. Four for now. I do not have a 4th or 5th axis so each main part has to be rotated 4 times or so. The upper frame I did in three rotations. I had some tool chatter with the upper frame because my max spindle speed is 5100 and I was using a 3/16, 3" end mill. It's not to bad thou. The lower frame I got in three rotations but it's going to take four to finish up. The grips is two rotations. I've not shown the details of the lower frame but it's got the slots cut in, I can do all four sides with one jig. The jigs are time consuming to design and cut also.

ds good name so there's another 300archangel. That's a good one also.

Today I ordered my 7.62x25 barrel. (Were on our way) Monday I'm ordering a parts kit from sarco, hopefully I can get a slide in 38super from them. I will more than likely order a 38s roto barrel to practice on before I do the 7.62.? If forced I will get a para slide. I want the fiber optic sights so I may have to go with para. I might try a tri top on either of these slides. That's in my mind as well. A parts kit from sarco is just about plug and play other than fitting. Hopefully I will have a gunsmith chime in when I get to this point. I will be there next week, maybe weeks end to start fitting. I've got a plan for case development also. Load development I have a plan for this, just did some research where I read one company is pushing the shorten length version 1700 fps with 85grain fmj. That's smoking it, not sure I want to try this at this velocity. I've heard rumors of 1900fps is possible. You tube sensation hickcock45 does a pretty good review of the 7.6 in a tt3 pistol. He made some impressive long shots.

[bmiller]

Rossrods, how much time do you have in milling the frame? Would the 4th axis be a time saver? Does your machine run on Mach 3? I have heard people complain that it was very glitchy, but there are a lot of people who like to complain. I have been thinking about acquiring a Tormach or Quality Machine tools cnc mill. I just purchased a nice old Bridgeport and am in the process of installing DROs.

[rossrods]

Mach 3 has hiccups, but there usually no big deal. My VM-1 was always having a glitch as well. I'm no expert cnc machinist I usually just wing it. Biggest advice is learn Cad then Cams and then your not limited in your abilities. Rhino is a very good surfacing program. Tormach is set up for the home shop and has excellent technical service guys. There is no service guys that can be called out so you ultimately will no everything about the mill. Not knocking what I have, but the tormach has it's limits on accuracy so you have to learn these and be okay with these. Accuracy is usually .003 either way. Mine is around .002 out. Not bad. I would love to have a haas super mini mill, but you can't touch the mill if something goes wrong with such. Service calls are very expensive and I'm not sure that the commercial mills guys are willing to spend time with you over the phone. I'm very pleased as a home hobby machinist. Tormach does exactly what it's suppose to. Speeds are a little limiting, but it all comes down to time, hurco was 7000rpm and 400-500 IPM. Tormach is 5140rpm and I think newer versions is maybe 90ipm. Honestly the end mills,rpms you have available, and the IPM these bits can be pushed dictate your time. Grant tool changes and such have a roll in these somewhat as well. Mine has the atc. When doing molds my programs could run 10-12 hours thru the night with tool changes programmed in. With the limited rpms and ipms you just have to slow things down. Time I would say it's around 30mins to 60 mins for every rotation I make with the jig. If I had my hurco I could cut this maybe down to 20mns-40mns. Set ups is simplified with the digital setters. I have these as well. Tormachs is more manual but very accurate. Reinshaw well its all automated.? Tool breakage will kill you in Mach 3. You have to go back to where you picked up tool. If it's a 10 minute tool path no biggie, if it's 2 hour tool path it will make you cry. Resolution is nice slow and easy. Answer to you questions. Mach 3 yes. 4 axis yes it would help, 5th would be perfect. Especially with 15,000.00rpms and 900ipms. But that's 100k machine. Tormach, with jigs, enough patience, and time is good for my world. Hope this helps. Oh ya I can do a ar15 lower in about 3 hours. Mag well requires hand work. Hope this helps.

[bmiller]

Could you post pics of the AR lower? Thanks for your responses!

[rossrods]

110584110585

Here u go friends. No biggie.
Back to a safety thought. Jmorris brought up the issue of the STI cracking at the bushing screw junction. So I have been pondering how to fix this with this little project. I have this vision of pulling trigger and the slide hitting me in the face and the lower frame comming off in my hand. Expect the unexpected. I wanted to go about this with the idea of this being a 80% project for others. So how would everyone be able to make the junction stronger. One could contract out a tig weld here but then we're getting away from this truly being a self built project. It's hard to say if the bushing/screw grip connection will last 5000 plus rounds. So to make this connection point stronger and make it easy enough for everyone who would take on such a project. I came up with a work around using the alumiweld rods. I think that's the name of these. It would take some practice running a bead but I think it's a good solution. What do you guys think? That stuff is pretty strong as long as u have good surface perp. Preheat parts in oven. I've played with it some. Going to make some grip chips.

[jmorris]

I would rather figure out how SV makes their metal grips survive.

All of the "DIY" type aluminum welding rods have too much zink in them for what I would call a good weld anyway (in fact the process is actually brazing not welding at that temp). However, I also have 4 TIG welders that I know how to use.

[rossrods]

Errr! I'm jealous, LOL. Wish I would've paid attention in class when it came to welding. Not knowing how to weld has held me back Do you have any cnc mills available to you?

[jmorris]

Yes. I have both manual and CNC (thus the topic of our PM's). I am not as skilled as I would like to be on the programming side though.

The last CAD course I took was back in '91 and they didn't offer G code courses so I learned Fortran, Pascal and Basic instead (all pretty much useless except to have the understanding that syntax is critical).

[ABluehound]

I love the new 3D Modeling programs because your files can be "ported" out to any necessary form, like "g-code" or STL. I would say they are worthwhile beyond measure to learn (I am partial to solidworks). Imagine being able to have a custom fit to your custom grip for you new pistol from concept to turning the screws to install it in no time. Or my favorite; sending an attachment to a shop in an email to a get specialized parts made from exotic materials you are not equipped to machine yourself.

[rossrods]

Agree abluehound, I usually suggest to any young man who isn't gifted in academics to learn more of a technical degree. Case in point my 17yr old loves game playing on the computer but can't stand anything with cad/cams/machinning. I've tried tried to sway him into cad. 3d modeling is going to be here to stay. I don't know maybe it takes someone with artistic abilities, not necessarily super strong math skills. However machining you need to be savoy with math. I use a calculator lol. Yep import export and open communication between cad/cam developers is a must. Rhino has issues opening up solid works files but there's some third party stuff that helps. I also have Alibre solids this helps. The cad was downloaded off Internet for the 2011 and 1911 to Alibre then I imported into Rhino as iges file. Rhino works in surfaces. At this point I was able to bust apart the designs, create some new surfaces and stitch back together as a solid. Save as iges and open in mastercam to create the g-codes tool paths. I use what works for me, there's more than one way to do things, but that's my way of doing such. I wish I had time in my life to redo my education but I don't.
I was honestly thinking of a military application for this project. You have a upper frame, the 2011. A lower 1911 frame in which the military has plenty of mags for and a small offset created in the grips is the only new addition. Barrells are the same since it's non ramped everything could be exchanged. One might ask why. Well it's lighter, if something breaks in field you don't trash whole pistol. Just swap out the bad part. The ar is somewhat modular. Now for competition not sure of the rules, but if the lower frame was steel I think you could use this in matches. As long as it fits in a box and doesn't exceed some weight. There's a good bit of science to recoil. It being lighter than steel. It seems in the rules of competition shooting, that it's an advantage to having a heavier gun. If the recoil was managed and having a lighter gun, to me this would increase response time. Sorry guys went way off tangent.
Yes it's very nice to be able to send file types via email, and have custom parts made. It does take the dollar to do such thou.

update. I've got all parts ordered to start build, so just waiting on things to arrive. 7.62 barell will be here friday. Slide and such will be out 9 more business days. Guys I really didn't have the funds to order high end slide and components, so bare with me on the budget build. The 7.62 barell will be really nice. I went with a para slide that's going to have to be converted to single action. There has to be a way to keep all the safety features of 80 series with this slide.

[rossrods]

110738110739

Ok folks got both sides finished up. Both grips are surfaced and fitted I was able to go back side one and fix surfacing detail but pic doesn't show this.?

[rossrods]

Has anyone seen a slide cut out of 6061 or 7075, and it work successfully.

[ABluehound]

All of the commercial 1911 derivatives I have seen have had their slides of some alloy of steel. I am not sure if it is for recoil mass or durability. In my mind an aluminum slide sounds scary, AL on AL may gall much in the same way my TI/TI Sig p220 copy did, requiring the addition of ceramic inserts to fix. I have been curious about AL with TI slide for a ultralight carry weapon. I'm not really familiar with the 2011 design yet but, the thought of adapting a 1911 from one end to the other specifically for the tokarev round and not having to settle for one the mag-well walls filed down paper thin is a big step. My big hands would feel right at home wrapped around a 1911 fed 13 or so 7.62X25's in a double stack mag. I wish someone would come up with such a mag to make the project worthwhile for me. I am capable of designing and making the box floorplate springs etc. Just the thought of tuning the lips on home made mags again is starting to cause a nervous tick. Maybe one day I will have to bite the bullet and pay someone to limo out a couple dozen 9mm mags and build my dream piece.

[jmorris]

I have an Advantage Arms conversion for a Glock that uses an aluminum slide and works well but it is only a .22.

IIRC SV and Caspian messed with them but neither offered them as they didn't last very long. SV will machine them from Ti though.

What they do now to make a lighter slide is to simply machine them down everywhere they can. Wil Scheuman started making Hybrid barrels for them that we're not round and the top of them wound up being flush with the top of the (milled out) slide. Ports for compensators are machined into that portion or left untouched like their "sight tracker" versions.

[rossrods]

Got it all done! Not! just kidding but made you look.

This is the look I'm going for. Probably not this color.
110830

This is the slide that's heading my way.
110831

This slide is LDA, so there for I've got to get clear clarification as to how to do the scallop cut. Also the extractor is in question as well. I believe EWG(maybe that's it) has a improved extractor for the para slide to 1911 conversion. I think one of the safeties maybe disabled, but there has to be a work around to fix this. If any of you could add some input, do you think this is a mistake using this slide. Thx

[rossrods]

ABlue I have the cad for the normal STI frame. Could one simply take what I've done with the single stack (1911 bottom part) increase the size to the STI's/2011 type magazine/grip. Honestly wouldn't it be easier to purchase this section from STI(be it composite or what ever) and use their double stack mags. I might be missing a dimension since I don't own a STI. Is their a difference in magazine sizes from a STI/SV say to hi cap para or double stack 1911. I need some enlightenment here.

[bmiller]

Ross rods, this is a Para slide I purchased from Sarco. My friend tri topped and then we used a ball end mill to make the the slots. Tri topping takes out more weight that you would think. Plus I like the appearance. EGW makes the HD extractors for Para. You can buy them in the Para pro shop if you can get in touch. EGW will sell them, I am not sure if they are on the site. They are a good extractor, but they are touchy to tune.

[bmiller]

Sti mags will usually work in Paras. Paras are too fat at the top to fit in a sti frame. On some pistols you have to buy a mag catch from canyon creek to make the sti mags work. The P-16 above runs fine with them as is. Slide lock does not work with them.

[jmorris]

You won't be able to use the Para firing pin safety in your pistol, unless you did the extra machining.

I honestly don't remember what, if any, difference the LDA slide had with a normal Para slide. I sold the one I had a decade ago. There was quite a bit of difference in the frame though.

[bmiller]

I stopped shooting idpa, and focused on 3- gun and uspsa. All the series 80 junk is out of my 1911s.

[KYCaster]

You guys are way out of my league here, but........

The only difference between the Para slide and any other 1911 is the series 80 plunger. The difference is in the frame. Same with the LDA...difference is in the frame....slide is the same as any series 80. Take out the series 80 plunger and you can use any extractor.....series 70 or 80.

How about 30 SUPER? Neck down a 9X21 and you get a 30 Luger. Neck down a 38 Super or 38 Super Comp and you get a 30 Super. No need to alter the frame or mags. Super mags should work. I imagine a 95 gr. bullet at 1500+ fps would be pretty easy.

Jerry

[rossrods]

Ky thanks for your info, 30 super is another good name. I like that as well. I can't say there's a league. It takes a lot of different variables of input and knowledge to come up with something a little different. So I'm a clean slate when it comes to understanding the 1911. My week point of success will be assembley. I'm going to break out each point of assembly and get as much info as possible before starting that section. I noticed brownells had a 4 set dvd (wilsons combat customizing 1911)on just about every aspect of the 1911. I may invest in this. I've been burning you tube up needless to say. So any input is very much needed. BTW if any gunsmiths who want to ante up especially in georgia I'm wide open for such or help. The info you guys have given me about the para slide has been very useful. I know I didn't make a wrong decision, may not be the best.
Oh btw picked up some 1911 slide cad(had to fix surfaces on it thou). I think I can cut this out. Priced titanium, a section 1.25" (z) x 12"(y) x12"(x) square was 1700 + dollars. I couldn't find any smaller pieces. Wow this stuff is seriously expensive. 4140 1.25x1.5x12" was $15.00 big difference. Would love to try the slide.

[rossrods]

111232

Update. Received my 7.62x25 barrel and springs Friday evening J&G sales. Total time of delivery was 5 days. That's very good. Here's a pic of barrel and it's contents. Bushing came already precision fit around barrel. This will help speed things up for sure.
Also ordered Wilson's combat 4 DVD set so I hopefully want be begging for much (key word) much gun smith help. Also ordered lapping compound sti grip screws, Wilson's combat 1911 38s mag. Two different taps, two Arkansas stones, bottom line things add up quick. I very well may have enough money tied up in a self build to purchase one. But I will be adding useful tools for the next 1911/2011 build with good knowledge and bad knowledge, you got to learn from your mistakes. I'm in it for the long haul. I've already started a new cad design for a new style 2011 frame. I'm going to have to sale some stuff LOL.

[rossrods]

112335Hey Guys update for you. I've got a good bit of the critical stuff fitted, however I've decided to go back and ditch the less expensive items and go with a higher end items. Bottom line is the frugal stuff will work but for a more custom fit I'm going to have to go with a little different hardware. Tolerances will be much tighter in doing so. I'll also add the Wilson combat DVD 4 tape DVD is a worth whiled investment. After watching the DVD series and following their techniques I was able to fit the slide with very, I mean almost no shake and rattle, and as slick as butter on Alunimum. Hammer I did pretty good on as well. I will be changing out this hammer, main spring housing and grip safety to a tighter fitting and better quality components. I'm actually happy with the para slide and have intentions of tri topping this and installing fiber sights front and adjustable at rear. The grip screws will both match eventually. So far the fit between the 2011 to the 1911 single stack is good. I believe it's very stable and secure. If I do a do over, next time I would do a 1/8 flat end mill for the raidus's to fit tighter. I did this make up with a 1/4" flat end mill. Then hand file fitted. (Their might be a .006 gap in some areas)Worst case, if there is a problem I could have the fitted area welded. A STI/SVI their fit I have no idea if there is any gap.?Anyways learning curve their. Thanks for viewing.

[gunsngeeks]

Hey folks. I've been playing around with this for a few months working on it here and there. Originally it started out as a cad drawing from grab cad. I've milled one 2011 frame from billet but ran into cost issues and decided to do another with a little different direction. The original 2011 model was for sti magazines with a Wilson nowlin ramp with the tactical rail underneath. First mod to the cad was to convert from STI magazine configuration to a single stack 1911 non ramped config. Reasons for this was purely economical, and 1911 parts are easier to get and a little more frugal I should say. I then took the cad from a 1911 model and married it to the outline of the 2011 frame. So what this means is its a 2011 frame with a 1911 magazine in which it can accept normal single stack mags and it's attached just like a 2011/STI would fit together. Oh ya it has the tactical rail underneath also. This is my first attempt at doing a 1911 or 2011 so I was just wanting to use frugal parts from sarco so I had to make the cad work for what I was wanting to do. My choice of calibres is the 40 s&w, 38 super, and a 7.62x25 in which I'm really leaning towards the 7.62 shooting a .308 bullet. I know it's not American LOL. But my idea is to use 5.56 cases cut down to the tokerov dims. Then use .308 110 grainers or .32 calibre drawn down to .308. There is a source for 7.62 barells for 1911's believe it it not. I've not decided which calibre thou. It's a little less expensive to go with the 38 super then convert to 7.62. Anyways I'm posting so you guys will keep on me to finish this. My spine is shot with a genetic spine diease so I work on this when I can. I need a little push from you guys to geter done LOL.

I think you should use a straight walled case for your .30 cartridge, something like the .38 supercomp. Starling still carries brass but the Winchester stuff is stronger if you can find it. Name suggestion: .30 bottle-blaster!!! LOL