Jigs for trimming cases for swaging

[just bill]

As I've investigated different steps in swaging there is a lot of graphic material, photos, videos and drawings. In the ones that are about annealing brass, trimming brass and forming brass, I've noticed there are a lot of Harbor Freight mini chop saws. But I don't only look at the object of thread/post, I look at the background for support elements. One of these is using a case trimming tool to jig the brass. If you notice the saw is elevated with no base, just suspended over the trim tool. This being said is there a particular one or can the Lee Zip Trim be adapted. I've tried searches and they go in a different direction. Any advise.
Thanks
Bill

[ncbearman]

RCBS Trim Pro

110345

Did you see this thread? This jig mounted on the little chop saw works great. The saw wears out before the jig will.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?167387-A-jig-I-made-to-cut-blackout-cases-quickly-and-easily

[GRUMPA]

Look at my thread in the Stickys and that's all I use. To sum it up it takes me longer to put the brass in than it does to trim it, I use a 2100RPM drill and can go through a mountain of brass in no time...

[just bill]

RCBS Trim Pro

110345

Did you see this thread? This jig mounted on the little chop saw works great. The saw wears out before the jig will.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?167387-A-jig-I-made-to-cut-blackout-cases-quickly-and-easily

Yes I did, and I had an idea for one simular but could not control the tapered hole, so I ordered one for fun, but I am investigating the ones like BT, Duke, and others in the past have used, more so for the design or should I say redesign of the saw. I am working on an idea I usually have these visual concepts and see things that may be adapted. I don't mean the one chuckbuster ( sorry) had made for Duke recently that, too, is a work of art. When I have a remodeling brain storm, Home Depot just laughs and the rookies ask if they can help, the regulars just chuckle.
Thanks
Bill

[just bill]

Look at my thread in the Stickys and that's all I use. To sum it up it takes me longer to put the brass in than it does to trim it, I use a 2100RPM drill and can go through a mountain of brass in no time...

I've seen that statement before, I 've run into the same thing, set up kills production.
Bill

[vonzep]

That link up there is to my 300 blackout jig. We have them for 40SW/357 Sig brass trimming and 9mm brass trimming too.
snap in, cut, push the next in and the cut case is ejected.

Email at vonzep58@yahoo.com

The swagging case cutting jigs are $30 hipped and hard coat anodized.

[just bill]

Vonzep
Thanks, I'm looking for a way to adapt another tool that has the same mounting as the harbour freight chop saw, but a different base.
Bill

[BT Sniper]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?82829-The-next-step!

I have got a LOT of use out of this set up.

BT

[just bill]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?82829-The-next-step!

I have got a LOT of use out of this set up.

BT

That is the set up that you and others have used. Let me list what I observe in the picture with the saw and case trimmer.
1. The case necks are trimmed.
2. The saw is re-indexed (moved by the wing nuts left and right).
3. The case is cut for the jackets and 45 amp casing.(or other planned use)
4. Swage away and load.( based on the lower right grouping)

My point is the indexing. I've seen other ways of auto, indexings and am attempting to incorporate them into a system by use of adaptation. I did it for tile and wood cutting, assembly line style.

[DukeInFlorida]

The saw fixtures that chuckbuster (not blockbuster) made for me is adjustable which is the feature that I was looking for. Some of the other pop through fixtures out there do not have the ability to easily adjust cut off length.

[just bill]

The saw fixtures that chuckbuster (not blockbuster) made for me is adjustable which is the feature that I was looking for. Some of the other pop through fixtures out there do not have the ability to easily adjust cut off length.
Thanks, I caught that little spelling error and fixed it. I know about your jigs and they are very versatile, as well as a lot of different casings. I 've seen both your videos. My intent in this search was the way the jigs adjusted. My observation of the three using case trimming devises had a moving saw mount. I've made devises for routers,radial arm saws and wet saws where the jig was set and all you did was move the work piece. Repetitious case trimming is not to dissimilar. I had an idea and the tapered case was the deal breaker. I know the theory for making the tapered hole but neither have the machine or experience.
Thanks
Bill

[Lizard333]

That link up there is to my 300 blackout jig. We have them for 40SW/357 Sig brass trimming and 9mm brass trimming too.
snap in, cut, push the next in and the cut case is ejected.

Email at vonzep58@yahoo.com



The swagging case cutting jigs are $30 hipped and hard coat anodized.

His jigs are the quickest I have found. I have his 300 Blackout Jig and his 40 jig, and they work perfect, everytime. The slowest part of the operation is waiting for the HF chop saw to cut.

[tiger762]

Second that. I have his 7.62 Tokarev jig and it is worth every penny. I gt it 'cuz the speculators were hoarding Tokarev brass. Even though it's starting to come back, I found that I enjoy making Tokarev from 223 :)


His jigs are the quickest I have found.

[just bill]

His jigs are the quickest I have found. I have his 300 Blackout Jig and his 40 jig, and they work perfect, everytime. The slowest part of the operation is waiting for the HF chop saw to cut.
Just got mine today, cant wait to set it up. Based on the few pieces of brass I've trimmed, the HF saw does not like military brass. Glad I bought two extra packs of blades. I read some one on this site sells a better quality blade, I need to look into that.
Bill

[chuckbuster]

Saw Blade Source, I think this is close for size, lots of choices

http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRIM?PMITEM=DZ53746340&PARTPG=&PAMENU=&PAHDID=000000077405772&PARDID=546369076029569

[vonzep]

Thanks guys for the kind words. I'm always open to constructive suggestions too.

[just bill]

Saw Blade Source, I think this is close for size, lots of choices

http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRIM?PMITEM=DZ53746340&PARTPG=&PAMENU=&PAHDID=000000077405772&PARDID=546369076029569

Thanks, I'll look into that.
Bill

[Guardian]

I have one of Vonzep's 9mm jigs and OMG do they work nicely. I was using a Lyman universal trimmer to shorten 9mm brass to 380 length and it was way too time consuming. I had annealed the brass prior to trimming. The HF saw cuts through them "like butta." I like that with Vonzep's jigs, my finger's are nowhere near the saw blade.

Duke has a good point about the need for ease of adjustment. It took me several tries to get the jig set to somewhere close to what I wanted. I couldn't get it exact. I'm going to rig up a base plate for the Vonzep jig with a fine thread bolt pushing against the end of the jig for length adjustment.

[just bill]

I have one of Vonzep's 9mm jigs and OMG do they work nicely. I was using a Lyman universal trimmer to shorten 9mm brass to 380 length and it was way too time consuming. I had annealed the brass prior to trimming. The HF saw cuts through them "like butta." I like that with Vonzep's jigs, my finger's are nowhere near the saw blade.

Duke has a good point about the need for ease of adjustment. It took me several tries to get the jig set to somewhere close to what I wanted. I couldn't get it exact. I'm going to rig up a base plate for the Vonzep jig with a fine thread bolt pushing against the end of the jig for length adjustment.

I got the 308/30-06 jig and if I understand, once the initial gage sets the location of the jig and you make the first cut, the blade indexes jig there after. I don't have much experience with adjustments in the less than .25 range so as long as I am making only a few constant dimensions this die should do well. It will give me time to perfect my adjustable jig I have lurking in my mind, based on a adjustable sliding rail, but the tapered hole is the main design flaw.
Bill

[vonzep]

The 9mm jig is a little different than your 308. His bolts in rock solid. I don't think you will get it 100% repeatable to make 380 cases. Close but not exact. The saw arbor shift, blade flex, jig detent in the extractor groove and brass variations may be too much. BUT you should get darn close and use a finish trimmer to get it exact.


The 308 base jigs use 3 points of contact and the saw clamp to adjust.

Once you have the 308 jig right, then notch the jig with the saw blade for future set ups.

[Guardian]

I don't think you will get it 100% repeatable to make 380 cases. Close but not exact. The saw arbor shift, blade flex, jig detent in the extractor groove and brass variations may be too much. BUT you should get darn close and use a finish trimmer to get it exact.

Agreed, it won't be exact. Close is good enough. I just would like to be able to get it closer than I've been able to do so far. I seem to move it more than 0.010-in. I was aiming for 0.672-in and ended up at 0.680. I stopped there. The jig is a huge improvement over what I had!

[vonzep]

If you adjust the detent in slightly you may get a few thousands longer case. But it may get too stiff.