Just got my first Lee Loader!

[Glassman66]

I just received my first Lee Loader in the mail today! This is my first loader of any kind. I decided I should start with this and move up when I have learned to make quality ammo with it first.

I need some help on a couple of items. I could use a recomendation of a good load for my 30-06. I have a 80's Savage 110 bolt action and it is my only centerfire rifle at this time.

I would like a good scale. I have been looking online and reviews are all over the place depending in where you read them. I think I would like a beam scale to start with. I really don't want the most expensive but, if that is what I should start with, I will save awhile.

Thanks your help, I am pretty excited about getting started reloading.

Oh, I did buy a book called "The beginners guide to reloading ammunition" by Steven Gregersen. It seems to be a good book with most of what I need to get started. Plan on also getting a Lyman's and maybe the one by Lee.



Thanks, Randy

[tward]

Randy, I suggest you invest in a reloading manual. Speer, Lyman, Hornady and Lee are all good, maybe buy one that goes with the bullet brand you're using. Beam scales are my go to but I've been at awhile. Lee loader in 222 Rem was my first metallic "press" slow but sure and made ammo more accurate than I could shoot! Good luck with a great hobby! Tim

[Beagle333]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?247312-RCBS-505-scale

It'd be hard to beat this one for a good all around scale!

I load with a Lee Safety scale most of the time, but I do like my 505 and it comes in handy for weighing boolits, since the Lee only goes to 100 grains.

[Glassman66]

tward, I do plan on ordering at least the Lyman book and probably the Lee. Got to buy it a little at a time. And........I just told the gentleman selling the scale, that Beagle333 turned me on to, that I would take it.

I have waited a long time to start reloading so a little longer won't kill me!




Thanks, Randy

[Beagle333]

That was a good price. They're $93 + shipping, new. 8-)
You'll like it.

[Glassman66]

That was a good price. They're $93 + shipping, new. 8-)
You'll like it.


Yup, thanks a bunch!


Randy

[WILCO]

I just received my first Lee Loader in the mail today! This is my first loader of any kind. I decided I should start with this and move up when I have learned to make quality ammo with it first.

Congratulations Randy!

[Green Frog]

Sounds to me like you are off to a good start with some good equipment. Read the instructions that came with your Lee Loader, and do exactly what they say. You will get good safe, relatively mild loads to shoot in your Savage. That's the way Lee designed those packages. Once you have the basics mastered, you can use the loads recommended in the Lyman or Lee or whatever manual, along with the scale you are getting (because now measuring the exact load will be more critical since you won't have a fixed volume dipper to use) and you will be able to grow your reloading knowledge. Don't get in a hurry to make the baddest, hottest, loudest loads in the book, though. Enjoy learning and gradually work up to the level of performance appropriate to your needs. Good luck finding components, although the ones for your "ought six" shouldn't be too bad to find.

Regards,
Froggie

Reloading since 1973 and still learning!

[prsman23]

I just received my first Lee Loader in the mail today! This is my first loader of any kind. I decided I should start with this and move up when I have learned to make quality ammo with it first.

I need some help on a couple of items. I could use a recomendation of a good load for my 30-06. I have a 80's Savage 110 bolt action and it is my only centerfire rifle at this time.

I would like a good scale. I have been looking online and reviews are all over the place depending in where you read them. I think I would like a beam scale to start with. I really don't want the most expensive but, if that is what I should start with, I will save awhile.

Thanks your help, I am pretty excited about getting started reloading.

Oh, I did buy a book called "The beginners guide to reloading ammunition" by Steven Gregersen. It seems to be a good book with most of what I need to get started. Plan on also getting a Lyman's and maybe the one by Lee.


Thanks, Randy


Randy if you need I can send you some 30-06 brass and bullets to try. Let me know if that would help you get started.

[RogerDat]

There is a link to a free online copy of the 1st edition Lee reloading manual in this post. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?247367-Modern-Reloading-1st-ed-Richard-Lee
I read that one and it was pretty decent and one can't beat the price. Just downloaded it and read it from a computer. Describes the correct way to use a lee powder scoop to measure powder. Even if you are planning to weigh each charge it helps to be able to scoop a consistent amount of powder to weigh.

I use a Lee Loader for .38 and I have some observations. Get a plastic headed mallet it was much easier to use and won't damage the loader with the pounding the way a metal one will and works better than a hard rubber mallet. You will set off some primers using a Lee Loader. You will be tapping the brass cartridge down onto the primer, once in awhile a primer goes off. Not a big deal if you have on safety glasses and avoid doing it where it scares the heck out of anyone besides yourself. House mates and dogs do not seem to approve of this sudden pop and puff of smoke.

Might want to take the advice given me and pick up a bullet puller, not a question of IF you will need to take one apart but WHEN you will need to. Especially important if after loading you find a primer not set right. You do not want to try and re-seat a primer in a loaded case unless you made me the beneficiary of your life insurance. Probably better to use a bullet puller.

Clean your brass or any grit will leave scratches and a little brass lube will make things go easier. Search the site for citric acid, cleans brass pretty well and is cheap from canning dept. of stores. There are posts about how to use it.

[bstarling]

If you can live with the loads in the guide that comes with it, you can make decent ammo with the scoop. I got my first LL in 1963 and loaded a boat load of 8x57 with it. Years later I got fancy and bought a press and "real" dies, all Lee. Not so certain my stuff now is any better than it was with the old LL.

Bill

[troyboy]

Those loaders are neat got me started as well. My uncle had one in 30-06 and a buddy had one in 45 lc. We would load and shoot. Lots of fun.

[CastingFool]

I got my start, reloading rifle cartridges with a Lee loader, and I was able to get 1-3/8" groups @ 100 yds, with a .30 cal rifle.

[Glassman66]

Thank you all so much, you are very helpful and generous.

I have been a member for awhile and I tend to research things to death before I do them out of a fear to fail. I think I am going to really enjoy making my own ammo.

prsman23 - Thanks for the offer, I have a couple hundred rounds of factory ammo and a good friend offered some brass. He has a Dillon and offered to let me use it if I bought the dies, but I would like to start small and work up. I think I will learn more that way. If I can't find some bullets I will let you know thanks!

Thanks for the help and kind words, I will download the Lee manual for sure.



Randy

[SGTM9]

I found that CCI primers worked best with my first LL 357mag. I had the fewest pops with the CCIs. A light glove on your punch holding hand is a good precaution.

[Blanco]

Welcome to the Darkside

[DeputyDog25]

I have a few 30-06 cases hanging around somewhere, let me know if you want them and I will get them off to you. Welcome to the wonderful world of Reloading. I am a newbie here and a newbie to casting but if I can help you with the reloading process in any way, don't hesitate to ask.

[gunshot98]

Glassman, send me your address and i'll give you a RCBS 505 scale. If you haven't got one yet? Its a little used and i'll test it before i send it.

[mdi]

My first reloading experience was in '69 with a .38 Special Lee Loader. I worked off the instruction/load sheet for a few months before I got a reloading manual (Lyman) and a Lee Safety Powder Scale (I was reloading pre-web, so I was safe ;-)). I scooped and trickled many loads and sometimes just scooped. I would suggest your next purchase be a Lyman's 49th, and a scale ASAP. I reloaded for my 3" 38 for about a year before I "graduated" to a press w/dies.

BTW, the Lee Loader for rifle/bottle necked cartridges only neck sizes so your ammo may not work in another gun...

Also take care; like some drugs lead to harder stuff, Lee Loaders lead to single stage presses and dies, then two presses and more dies, and powder measures, and more dies, then a turret press and more dies, and if your luck runs out a full out progressive...

[SGTM9]

Don't forget the whole I have to buy this new gun because I just got a set of dies and or a mold in that caliber.;)

[Larry Gibson]

Excellent way to start reloading, I started that way myselfin the early ‘60s.

A couple tips;

Get;
One of the larger MTM storage boxes, one with an internaltray, as it will hold all your reloading stuff.

A plastic headed mallet. These are available at mosthardware/lumber yards.

Some 0000 steel wool to clean the outside of the neck. Asmall tuft wrapped around the neck and twisted does a quick job. May also beused with discretion to clean the outside of the cases.

A clean bore brush one size larger than the caliber you areloading for on a small pistol rod to clean the inside of the necks. Push itstraight in and slightly twist pulling it out. Usually one pass cleans thecarbon and debris out pretty well.

A small screw driver to clean the primer pocket but the Leeprimer pocket cleaner is inexpensive and works well.

The Lee chamfer tool to chamfering the inside of the casemouth and the outside if necessary. A small knife blade will do also for theinside.

The Lee hand priming tool is almost a must unless you wantthe be-jesus scared out of you when a primer pops tapping them in.

A Lee powder funnel, works much better than pouring throughthe sizer.

A tapered punch or needle nosed pliers can be used to flairthe case mouth if you are loading cast bullets.

A loading block to hold the cases that you’ve put powderinto.

Nice, or next to have;

Lee’s powder dippers.

A good powder scale.

A powder trickler.

At least one good reloading manual, Lyman’s is recommended.

A dial caliper.

All the above will fit into the MTM box.

Most of the above will also be required or useful when youadvance to a single or progressive press.

Larry Gibson

[Glassman66]

Its hard to believe in this day and age how generous you all are!!!

I just have to look for some bullets and powder once I decide on a load to try. I will try to deal with the LGS first, hopefully they will have what I need.

I have a Lyman 49th and a Lyman 30 cal rifle load data book on the way as well as a RCBS scale found on the site for a great price.

I am an autoglass/bodyman and a confirmed tool junkie, so I should have have most of the other tools I need as well. My uncle was a machinist and I was gifted all his tools when he was unable to work anymore.

One thing I would be interested in is to direct me to some light loads with light bullets. I have 2 kids who enjoy shooting, and I don't want to bruise em up too bad! They both have there own 22's and are pretty good shots. At this rate, I figure I may never get enough 22 ammo to shoot and might as well reload and move up to centerfire!



Thanks again, and I promise to make good use of the help you have provided.


Randy

[joesig]

Speer lists:
26 gr AA 5744, if you can find any, with their 110 gr Spire point bullets: 1956fps
29 gr IMR 4227 110 gr Hollow point bullets: 2300fps

A few options in here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?247367-Modern-Reloading-1st-ed-Richard-Lee&p=2850597

There is always a pinch of pistol powder and some Ought buckshot.

Plenty of light boolit loads in this forum if you search.

[John Boy]

Glassman, you might want to consider this digital scale. I have 2 of them and they are as accurate as advertised to xx.01 grains
http://www.dx.com/p/1-7-lcd-high-precision-digital-jewelry-scale-50g-0-001g-4-x-aaa-101011#.U8Cs2UAcjmc

[Glassman66]

I did a lot of searching for loads last night and there are a lot of them out there to say the least! From what I read accuracy suffered at the 100 and 110 grain weights and 125 and up worked better for most.

I understand every gun is different and I will have to do some shooting to find out. That the fun part right!

I think I will have to take a list of popular powders, find what is available, and then work the load from there. Midway seemed to have a good bullet selection but not any powder.

I will load j-words for now and add cast boolits after I figure out the basics.



Thanks, Randy

[Glassman66]

Glassman, you might want to consider this digital scale. I have 2 of them and they are as accurate as advertised to xx.01 grains
http://www.dx.com/p/1-7-lcd-high-precision-digital-jewelry-scale-50g-0-001g-4-x-aaa-101011#.U8Cs2UAcjmc

I will save that link, good to know one that is accurate from someone that owns one. I am not sure I buy all the reviews on some sites!



Randy

[mdi]

FWIW; I pay very little (read none) attention to any load data from any forum expert, gun counter clerk, range rat, gun shop guru, or pet loads website. I would highly suggest you confine your load data to a published manual, or three. Even if the friends, etc. are just being helpful with load data, keep to safe well known, tried and true data. For an absolute beginner I'd suggest a load with a tried and true bullet (30-06 mebbe a 150-160 gr., jacketed bullet) with a well known and used powder and powder charge (Varget, IMR 3031, IMR 4895, etc.). When you get the process down pat, then start trying different types of loads...

[MBTcustom]

I loves me some LeeLoader action.
I started in the middle with a RockChucker and powder throw, and a whole workbench full of junk I got from my dad.
First Wildcat I made needed dies, and I figured the LeeLoader looked simpler to make. So i told my wife that's what I want for Christmas.
As soon as the loader got here, I went out and used it to load a few cases, then I came in and put the dies up for sale.

My wife was shocked and very disappointed that I was selling what she just bought me!
She said "Honey you should told me I got you the wrong thing!"
I replied "Baby, you don't understand, you didn't buy me a LeeLoader, you bought me the knowledge of exactly how it works, and that is much more useful than a single tool. You got me exactly the right thing!"
Since then I have made several loaders for different calibers (including the only one in existence that will reload the 500 Jeffery!). All are slightly different than the original of course, but I am still shocked that my whole reloading operation can be condensed into a kit that fits in my pocket.
I love the LeeLoaders!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Its hard to believe in this day and age how generous you all are!!!

Randy

Randy,,,We're pretty much all Republicans! but some Democrats are welcome too. :bigsmyl2:

You have picked the best way to learn the art of reloading ammo that there is. You will learn the basics better this way than any other.

Virtually everything you obtain beyond the basic Lee kit will be used as you progress.

Virtually anything you need to know is here at CastBoolits, however you really need to read and re re-read your loading manuals and learn as much as possible for yourself. We will help if you need clarification of any fine points.

Lyman 49 is one of the best and contains the most information on the actual mechanics of reloading and associated processes, as well as load data from virtually every caliber known to man. It is always my first recommendation.

Welcome to the dance, and my name is Randy too!

Randy

[Glassman66]

I saw a bumper sticker the other day and it said "I am not a republican or democrat, I am an AMERICAN and I want my country back!!" I think that about sums me up best!

I have been on this forum for almost 2 years but I have read more in the last couple of weeks than all of the last 2 years!

I am about 50 pages in on the Lee manual that is available for downloading, read my beginners book of reloading, and a ton of info on powder sites. Still a little uncertain on my first loads.

My LGS has IMR 4350, 4064, 8208xbr I believe and H415 and Varget. The carry remington large rifle primers and some hornady bullets. The hornady's or hunting bullets and I know I will be punching paper mostly for now.

I would like to come up with some loads that use what my LGS has in stock if possible and I have seen 4064 and varget in some load data, just not sure what bullet to use. I was thinking jacketed bullet but Missouri Bullet Co. has some 135 and 165 gr. .309 lead bullets and I live 20 miles from those guys.

Any help will be great.


Randy

[GrantA]

Congrats and welcome. I started with a 30-06 Lee Loader too, somehow or another it WILL draw a press into your possession, then that press will need some company, then powder measures, oh my!
**I DIDN'T SEE IT MENTIONED ALREADY but the Lee Loader is only for brass that was fired in YOUR rifle. There's about a 1% chance that any other brass will chamber in your rifle when loaded on it. This is because it neck-sizes only. If your friend has a press you can pick up Lee RGB dies for about $20 and FL size brass. Then you could use the loader to prime/charge/seat if you'd like. It can produce excellent ammo, just be aware of that one catch.

[Glassman66]

Congrats and welcome. I started with a 30-06 Lee Loader too, somehow or another it WILL draw a press into your possession, then that press will need some company, then powder measures, oh my!
**I DIDN'T SEE IT MENTIONED ALREADY but the Lee Loader is only for brass that was fired in YOUR rifle. There's about a 1% chance that any other brass will chamber in your rifle when loaded on it. This is because it neck-sizes only. If your friend has a press you can pick up Lee RGB dies for about $20 and FL size brass. Then you could use the loader to prime/charge/seat if you'd like. It can produce excellent ammo, just be aware of that one catch.


I was aware of that GrantA and luckily I have some factory ammo that I am going to need to shoot up so I can reload it!!

I only have one rifle, so I don't have to worry about other calibers distracting me either!

I am pretty sure there is a press in my future and I can worry about that after I get the LeeLoader working well for me.




Randy

[GrantA]

See if the local shop has Win 760 or H414 powder (they're the same). I have used it under 175 SMK and 165 Hornady SST at around the starting charge as a low-recoil round. Either of those should work fine with the Lee dipper but I think I saw you have a scale coming

[Glassman66]

See if the local shop has Win 760 or H414 powder (they're the same). I have used it under 175 SMK and 165 Hornady SST at around the starting charge as a low-recoil round. Either of those should work fine with the Lee dipper but I think I saw you have a scale coming

My LGS has IMR 4350, 4064, 8208xbr I believe and H415 and Varget.

I have seen a lot of the 4350,4964,H415 and Varget in load data. One of the guys at work that reloads told me I should pick my bullet first, then find the load that will work with that bullet. Not really sure of what bullet I want to use yet. For now I am just looking to punch paper.

I have somebody sending me some bullets, but not sure what they are yet. We shall see soon.

The LGS is have a grand opening in a couple of weeks, good deals, door prizes and such. Looking to spend a little money over there maybe.



Randy

[GrantA]

I assume you meant H414 as there isn't an H415. Of those I'd choose 4350 or H414 for 30-06. H414 / Win 760 should prove easier to find moving forward than the 4350. Varget is best left to smaller cases like 308 & 223.

I'd suggest getting a powder funnel- the loader did not work favorably for me as a funnel. I recently upgraded from plastic to Satern aluminum funnels and they're definitely worth the extra $10 or less over the plastic- no static cling.

[gwpercle]

Be sure to inspect the part the primer sits on before you hammer down the brass case onto the primer. Mine had the smallest raised bump on it, left from manufacturing, and that rascal would regularly set of primers. Took it out, filed it dead flat and no more surprise bangs.
And congratulations! I would love to know how many of us got started with one of these, Thanks to Lee a lot of folks are in this hobby.
Gary

[UBER7MM]

My LGS has IMR 4350, 4064, 8208xbr I believe and H415 and Varget.
The LGS is have a grand opening in a couple of weeks, good deals, door prizes and such. Looking to spend a little money over there maybe.
Randy

I'm a big fan of 4064. That and 4895 were made for the 30'06. They work well in a lot of cartridges of that size. Get yourself several reloading manuals. Lyman was mentioned above. I'll recommend Lyman as well.

Enjoy and load safe.

[Glassman66]

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I will take it all in and use it!

I picked up a pound of IMR4064 and 4350 along with a box of primers. I received some other goodies by way of George. I will tell all about it soon in the helping hands thread!





Randy

[orbitalair]

Best light loads? 17gr of H2400 and 150gr lead bullet. I have not tried the little 120gr bullet, but Lee makes a mold for that one. H2400 is getting hard to find. I love the Lee Loaders, sad that they plan to stop making them eventually. I have several and try to add more when I can. I need a custom one in 9mm MAKAROV !

[Glassman66]

Best light loads? 17gr of H2400 and 150gr lead bullet. I have not tried the little 120gr bullet, but Lee makes a mold for that one. H2400 is getting hard to find. I love the Lee Loaders, sad that they plan to stop making them eventually. I have several and try to add more when I can. I need a custom one in 9mm MAKAROV !



Missouri Bullet Co. makes a 115,135, and 165 grain cast boolit I hope to try at a later date. Gonna start with J-words and factory data before moving on to cast boolits.

I would like to do it all, but trying to keep myself on the straight path of learning. Sad part is I waited till I was WAY in my forties to start all this!





Randy

[orbitalair]

Never too late to learn my friend. I didn't start either until I was about 43 or so. 6 years of reloading, I have closet full of stuff, tools, supplies, etc. Its easy to learn, very hard to master. A great hobby. Keep us posted.

[Animal]

Congratulations! I started learning with a Lee Loader in the 38/357 cal.. Just as Goodsteel said, it is more like a kit full of knowledge and experience awaiting to be tapped than it is a single tool.

I also spent the extra 20 bucks and bought a Lee Perfect Powder measure. I'd go on my back porch in the late evening while the crickets, frogs and whippoorwills were all chatting away and pound out some ammunition (also had a caliper). A couple of times a primer ignited... scared the **** outta me and silenced the wildlife lol

I learned a lot about how everything works together and how minor fluctuations in technique can effect the consistency of ammunition.

It all started when a customer at work gave me a free copy of Lee Modern Reloading. Now I've gone from having just a few tools and supplies to thinking about building an additional room to store all my stuff! Good luck, stay safe.

[Texantothecore]

Welcome to the family. First time you use it fry to set off a primer and get it over with. It is much louder inside than outside btw.

It is just a cap.

[Green Frog]

Yaknow, there were a couple of variations of the Lee Loader that included a hand priming tool (predecessor to the current Auto-Prime™) that would take care of the "big bang" problem that has been repeatedly mentioned by so many posters. Even when I'm using my 310 tool or my Huntington hand press, the old original aluminum bodied priming tool with screw-on shell holders is likely to be in use.

Froggie

[Alferd Packer]

Now I'm almost age 68, been using Lee Loaders since age 8.
Dad said when you center the shell over the primer, always press down and compress the spring under the washer, before you drive the primer in. You can feel it compress and bottom out .
Hold it down and a couple gentle taps. The primer goes in. If you look at the primer and its still not fully seated, repeat the same steps-taking time to press down solidly again to compress the washer spring.
Otherwise its just a slamfire for sure.
I have always done that and never popped a primer.I know its been several hundred thousand at least. I load for almost all pistol calibers and about 15 rifles.
Everyone I taught to load using the LEE never popped a primer except for my best friend. He hates the LEE and just balances the shell holder , or the shell on the primer loosely and whacks the rammer at an angle instead of straight down.The primer pops and he proves me wrong. One after another.
Never use a steel hammer. Either to seat primers or to drive the shell into the sizer.
No plastic or leather mallet available,. Use a short piece of hardwood. I believe a steel ball pein or claw hammer delivers a vibrating shock to the primer that can cuse it to missfire by crumbling or cracking the priming compound. I noticed my friends that use steel hammers with their LEE Loaders having misfires using primers from the same batch as mine. I never have msfires, but they do-enough to take notice. When they change to a wood or plastic mallet, the misfires stop. Also, the steel hammer beats the cartridge head when driving into the sizer die and can peen over the primer pockets edge or the shellcase rim.
Also,It helps to inspect the fresh primers with a flashlight. Once, I found a WW primer that was vacant. Nothing in it!-
Another thing,When you pick up each shell to prime, glance thru the primer flash hole and see the light. Nothing blocking the hole, usually the shell is clean. The tumbler grit can clog a hole from the inside=misfire.


There it is. One time I talked to my friend, the primer popper. He just said, LEE LOADERS are dangerous, I said, "you can lead a horse to water..."
It also helps greatly to either ream or swage the GI primer pocket crimp from any range pickups or surplus Military brass. That means inspecting brass.
A lot of people try to seat the primer in a pocket without removing the GI crimp. This too gives the LEE Loader a bad name.
Commercial store bought ammo won't have crimps when you reload that brass. Experienced reloaders already know, but then this is discussed in reloading manuals.


Just sayin

[gwpercle]

Randy,
If you enjoy gadgets and tools this is the perfect hobby for you. There are so many do-da's, widgets, and gizmo's you will never amass them all. I been buying stuff since 1967 and still buy more stuff at least 2 or 3 times a year. But in all honesty the Lee Classic Loader, load sheet , funnel, dipper, loading tray and plastic ammo box will get you going nicely, load decent ammo and is FUN.
Welcome to the addiction ( after a while you going to understand why it's referred to as an addiction). Next the CASTING addiction takes over....even more things to play with . And for the best part...think of all the money you will be saving!
Gary

[Glassman66]

Randy,
If you enjoy gadgets and tools this is the perfect hobby for you. There are so many do-da's, widgets, and gizmo's you will never amass them all. I been buying stuff since 1967 and still buy more stuff at least 2 or 3 times a year. But in all honesty the Lee Classic Loader, load sheet , funnel, dipper, loading tray and plastic ammo box will get you going nicely, load decent ammo and is FUN.
Welcome to the addiction ( after a while you going to understand why it's referred to as an addiction). Next the CASTING addiction takes over....even more things to play with . And for the best part...think of all the money you will be saving!
Gary

I do like gadgets! I like making them too, I already have some ideas for things that will help me for loading.

I am in the process of building a reloading bench. I know you don't need a bench for a lee loader, but might as well plan ahead!




Randy

[Bullfrog]

Congrats on the wonderful world of reloading! I started out with an OLD press a C-H 3 station which I still have. I have obtained my first lee loaders in the last year or so because I really want to get the basic reloading it provides.

[Dave Bulla]

Great post by Alferd Packer above. It's a fact that much hinges on any given individuals ability to follow directions, show a little common sense and have an eye for details to get the most benefit out of the Lee Loader kits.

Just some trivia for you. There are several versions of the Lee kits. If you spend a little time looking around on E-Bay you can see most of them on any given day. The originals came in cardboard boxes with a cardboard tray then later with Styrofoam. The parts are all but unchanged to the modern kits of today.

Next up were the "Improved" Lee Loaders. These had the separate hand primer and a different tool for expanding and crimping the case mouth.

What you have to look our for is a kit that is absolutely identical in appearance to the Improved kits that was called a "Unitized" Lee Loader. This is the ONLY Lee kit that full length resizes the brass. I have a couple and they require quite a bit more force to seat the case and case lube is actually needed where the neck size kits do not require lube. They weren't around that long and I don't think they were nearly as popular except in cases where people either had multiple rifles they wanted to load for without worrying about keeping track of which rifle fired the brass last time or were shooting autoloaders or lever guns that were picky feeders.

Last is the "Zero Error Target Loader" which is sort of an Improved Loader on steroids. It has the hand primer, a case trimmer, deburr tool, inside case neck reamer and a micrometer adjustable die for precise bullet seating. By the way, in my opinion, the inside the neck case reamer is quite possibly the best way to true the neck on rifle brass there is. But like Ford vs Chevy, opinions on case neck trimming from the inside or outside vary...

Well, there is one other category and that is Lee Loader kits for shotgun shells. I've got pretty much all of those also but that's a different subject.

As for loading, it's already been mentioned about using a rubber/plastic faced mallet but I say choose carefully. I prefer some of the older ones that have a steel body and use screw on faces. I usually try to get the hardest plastic and hard rubber faces I can find. I feel it gives a more consistent case depth when seating in the die and is also less work to use. I also prefer any mallet that has a bit more weight over one that does not. It's much easier to use a weighted hammer gently than to have to pound hard with one that is light.

Last tip, make yourself a base of some sort to put the die on when you are pounding. I started making my own from about 1/2" steel flat stock scraps at work. I got the idea from a video on youtube that shows Dick Lee loading a bullet with the kit and he had a plate he put it on that sounded like steel when he used it though he never talked about it.

What I did was cut a piece about 5X7 inches or so then radius the corners and glue a piece of cushy closed cell foam on the bottom. In a pinch, a beer can cozy cut open and glued flat to the plate works great. This allows me to have a strong, flat, nearly indestructible surface to pound on yet the soft foam on the back has enough give that I can load at the kitchen table and not make a racket. The other thing it does is provide aural feedback when seating primers. When you use the steel plate, you can HEAR when the primer is fully seated. If you work around cars, you've probably seated a few bearings in your life and you know that when tapping a bearing in, it usually has a sort of deadened sound as it is being seated and when it bottoms out the sound changes to more of a ringing sound. Primers do the same thing. It's a matter of listening to it. Clunk, clunk, clunk, CLINK! and stop. Keep pounding or pound way too hard or with a steel face hammer and it'll be Clunk, clunk, clunk, clink, BANG! You can hit it a couple extra times in moderation and not blow a primer but if you continue to beat on it after you hear it seat or just hit way too hard to start with, you surely CAN pop a primer. No big deal, just knock it out and replace it.

Have you read the sticky post up top here about the Lee Loader? It's got a ton of great info and pictures too. I posted pic's somewhere about my steel base plates but not sure if it was there or in another thread. There is also a post floating around about using an adapter bushing to keep the whole stack of die, loaded round and decapping chamber aligned for the crimping process that you might want to look for. You'd have to make your own bushing but it's not that hard. It helps accuracy a LOT.

[Dave Bulla]

Check out the sticky above and look up post #158 and #162 to see the bushing I was talking about. 152 has a couple pic's but 162 has a link to the whole story.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I have only used the priming function on a Lee Loader a few times. When I bought my first one in 1971 for $7.95 I got a Lee priming tool at the same time for $2.95 and still have it. I had two shell holders for it .30-06 size and one for .44 Spec/Mag cases. Recently a friend gave me one that has a bunch of shell holders with it. Now I have two of them. I use them most to finish seating high primers or loading only a few rounds. I find however with the Lee Loader they are a much better way to seat primers than the method the tool uses. Beating on primers will make them go off occasionally.

What I like most about the tool is the fact that it is the most basic reloading tool available. And yet it fulfills all of the functions necessary to complete the task of reloading cartridges.

Then you will branch out into other types of tools which can make your loading go faster.

Then when you get really technical and want to shoot bench rest you will find yourself loading with expensive versions of Lee Loaders, which puts you right back where you started, but you will know a lot more from the path you took to get there.

Randy

[swheeler]

Lee loaders have gotten lots of people started in reloading, myself included in 1964, seems like yseterday.;)

[Alferd Packer]

Never attempt to reseat a primer on a loaded round!
Not saying you did, but just saying this for the sake of safety for others.
The loaded round can very easily explode if there was an obstruction such as a piece of grit trapped under the primer preventing it from seating originally.
Mashing it into place can set off the shell.
You can imagine the rest!

[Glassman66]

Great advice everyone! thanks!

Dave, the link on post #162 is dead, but I think I read it some time ago. I have read the whole thread more than once, I tend to research things to death before doing them!

I like your steel plate idea, I had a similar idea as well. I will post a pic when I get it done. I also plan to make my own loader for doing shotshells, I was inspired by a video on youtube from Duelist54. He uses a kinda crude method but seems to work well. Just plan on making it a little nicer.


I saw a youtube video where the gentleman used a wooden block with foam on the bottom and it was very quiet and though at the time that was a great idea. Its alway a good idea to keep the little woman happy while doing stuff around the house!



Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

Alferd: good point,,, I did overlook that possibility. Easy enough to pull the bullet and start over.

Randy

[Dave Bulla]

Honestly, if you are doing things right, there should never be a situation where you have a high primer on an already loaded round. It's a simple matter to run a thumb over the seated primer to feel the seating depth. If it's proud, give another whack if needed. I even do this when priming cases on my Rockchucker press. You can also just stand the primed case head down on a flat surface. A case with a high primer will "wobble" and not sit straight. The nice thing about the hand primer is you can seat primers slightly below flush as is more correct and you also have a better "feel" for what is going on. The standard Lee Loader method does work just fine if done correctly. Remember, always listen for the "clink".

[Glassman66]

I should be doing some reloading soon. I have most of my supplies now, "George" stopped my house twice with some goodies.

I now have in addition to my lee loader, a lee turret press, 30-06 dies, case trimmer, chamfer tool, primer pocket cleaner, some cast and jacketed bullets. I have BrassMagnet and prsman23 to thank for those!!

Picked up some powder and primers this week and should have some brass next week.

Have a reloading bench in the works, repurposed cabinet and some used shelves and plywood. Should have it built for about $60 bucks. Got a lot going on in my house right now. Looking forward to doing some shootin and reloadin!!



Randy

[Glassman66]

Just picked up another tool to go with my Lee Loader, its a Lyman full length resizer. Picked it up on flea bay for $18. Thats a little more than the original price of $3.50!



http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s450/littrell66/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMAG0206.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/littrell66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMAG0206.jpg.html)


Can't wait to try it out!




Randy

[woodbutcher]

:grin: The Lee Loader was my first piece of equipment.Neat little tool.The 38/357.If you don`t want to do the plastic mallet do wacka do,just use a C clamp to squeeze the case into the die.Works great.Mom and Dad sorta fussed about the tap,tap,tap in my bedroom when using it.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Green Frog]

Just picked up another tool to go with my Lee Loader, its a Lyman full length resizer. Picked it up on flea bay for $18. Thats a little more than the original price of $3.50!


http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s450/littrell66/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMAG0206.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/littrell66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMAG0206.jpg.html)


Can't wait to try it out!


Randy

Apparently Lyman made a bunch of these tools, especially in the common rifle calibers. I think they were mainly meant to be used for FL sizing rifle cases when loading on the TruLine Jr press. Its die sets mostly neck sized those cartridges and was a little light for FL sizing rifle cases anyway. While the common calibers can be found pretty reasonably, when you start trying to find some of the more obscure calibers, the prices go up very steeply! I was on a quest for the (not too uncommon) 32-20 and was amazed at the prices they seem to bring on flea-Bay. :shock:

Since they have been relegated to the "nice to have" category, I now just look for them when they show up... at a price I regard as reasonable. :coffeecom

Froggie

[Texantothecore]

I went the opposite way in my equipment. I started out with a single stage and ended up with the Lee Loader. It is a fascinating piece of equipment that fits in your back pocket. Very cool.

One tip: a cap going off is much louder at the kitchen table than it is outside. Lol.

[mdi]

Being a "gadget/hand tool" kinda guy myself I tried using my Lee Loaders in a different ways. I've reloaded a bunch of .44 Magnums with a Lee Loader on an arbor press. I also deprimed a bag full (mebbe 1,000) of .38 brass on an arbor press with my Loader, and I've experimented with different hammers/mallets and "pads" to pound on (I settled on a lead ingot 2 1/2x 4"x16" long). I'm in the process of "customizing" one for my 303 British that has an oversize bore. .318" cast bullets won't go through the .311" Lee Loader...

Lee Loaders are just fun! :bigsmyl2:

[Glassman66]

Being a "gadget/hand tool" kinda guy myself I tried using my Lee Loaders in a different ways. I've reloaded a bunch of .44 Magnums with a Lee Loader on an arbor press. I also deprimed a bag full (mebbe 1,000) of .38 brass on an arbor press with my Loader, and I've experimented with different hammers/mallets and "pads" to pound on (I settled on a lead ingot 2 1/2x 4"x16" long). I'm in the process of "customizing" one for my 303 British that has an oversize bore. .318" cast bullets won't go through the .311" Lee Loader...

Lee Loaders are just fun! :bigsmyl2:



I have thought about using my drill press as an arbor press, but not sure it would be any faster. Not that fast is what I am going for!

I have a pallet with some nice thick wood and think I will make a pad with that. Then drill a hole with a forstner bit so I can deprime and the primers will drop though the hole. That way you can deprime a lot of them with out lifting up the tool. Maybe use a little container underneath to catch the primers.

Trying to get the reloading bench finished, thought I had it done and realized I have made a misss.....calculation and and have to do a little "fixin" to it!

Picture will come soon!




Randy

[Dave Bulla]

mdi said:


I'm in the process of "customizing" one for my 303 British that has an oversize bore. .318" cast bullets won't go through the .311" Lee Loader...


Before you do that, try this...

When it's time to seat the boolit, instead of dropping it in from the top and forcing it through the die (which as you know would size the bejeepers out of it), simply lift the die body off the casing, set the boolit on top of the case mouth and lower the die body back down over it and proceed normally from there. Of course, flaring the case mouth while the die is off is a big help with cast lead too. I've had to do this with cast for my 35 Remington and it worked fine. What I don't know is how much boolit length and diameter difference you can get away with before the die body will end up resting on the ogive but it won't cost you anything to try it.

[mdi]

Hmmm. Thanks Dave, I'll try that...

Sometimes simple just whizzes over my head and I have to complicate things...

[McE1911]

I went the opposite way in my equipment. I started out with a single stage and ended up with the Lee Loader. It is a fascinating piece of equipment that fits in your back pocket. Very cool.

One tip: a cap going off is much louder at the kitchen table than it is outside. Lol.

It is a cool lil gadget. I bought two of them when i first started to reload. but after a few days of using them, i couldnt stand the banging specially when reloading at night. So, i returned them & went w the "Lee hand press" instead. Super quiet & easy to use even when there's people in the next room.

[Dave Bulla]

So mdi, did it work?

[1989toddm]

So anyone of you had a primer go off on the last tap to seat it? Just did last night. I wonder if it was caused by using a ball peen hammer instead of plastic?

[Dave Bulla]

1989toddm,

It's generally not a good idea to use the steel hammer simply because it will mushroom the tools over time but it isn't really the cause for the blown primer. That's simply a matter of hitting it just a little too hard or one too many times. Can happen regardless of the hammer or mallet used.

[McE1911]

So anyone of you had a primer go off on the last tap to seat it? Just did last night. I wonder if it was caused by using a ball peen hammer instead of plastic?

No. i had a few of them go off while using a plastic/rubber hammer. Scared the **** out of me. They just didnt align properly when you tap it to seat in.

[mdi]

I only have one priming base that will set off a primer, that's my .44 magnum Lee Loader. I haven't checked into it yet, but I believe the spring loaded disc ain't centering correctly, but I could be wrong (I've had to change my panties more than a couple times!).

[eljefeoz]

I just got one in .410

Have already done up a box of brass reloads with 12gr Blue Dot and # 8 shot. A few more with .356 158gr Cb, packed tight with CoW.
Now to take out the lil Rossi .410...
Plan to do some 139gr for the 7x57 later with the Lee loader.
Dave Bulla- Thanks for the tip on seating CB with the LL
Cheers

[barrabruce]

If you hold the priming rod down on the case when you hit it you won't let a primer off and less you really whack it.

What happens is you tend to lift the pressure off the primer rod after you hit it and then you get a cannoning effect when you hit it again.
Something like that.

Anyway try and keep downward pressure on the rod and you should have no troubles.
The spring loaded washer/seater pin just doesn't stick out enough to seat the primer more than you normally would. I do a couple of light taps instead of one big whack.

Don't worry .... the primers I have let off have had no ill effects except for the ringing in my ears and the sudden change of my jocks.

I have loaded thousands through mine now and have even bought an early lee one with the plastic primer tool and flarer tool.

[Lead Fred]

I read accuracy suffered at the 100 and 110 grain weights and 125 and up worked better for most.


Oh really, my odd six fires Speer 110 varmint grenades at 3400fps, and a 1 MOA group at 200 yards.
It does take awhile to recalibrate the scope from my 178s I normally shoot.

Mr Odd Six says:

What you doin with said rounds?

The standard 150gr ball shoots in ever 06 Ive ever owned.

Hornaday 150 HPBT
48-50 gr IMR 4895 ( semi auto 50 gr is the max, you can go to 57gr in a bolt)
I stick with 50gr so I can use them in my Garand.

My standard long distance round:

178 A-Max
54.5gr IMR4350
Winchester LR primer
Lake City cases
2880fps out my Shilen 26 inch barrel, with a 3/8 group at 200 yards.

[stephen m weiss]

I started with a Lee Load Master progressive and moved to Lee Loaders. The progressive sure makes more faster. Changing calibers takes 30 min to an hour though, with moving the autodisk set, flair tool, and resetting all the depths.

The issue I have with the Lee Loader is flaring the case mouth for cast bullets. While I can do it with hand tools, its not quick nor precise. On my progressive, I can tune the flair tool to just open .001 more than the lead size and minimize neck metal fatigue.

I wonder if a bit of steel pipe cut to lenth for a stop and a plumb bob or similar large cone of steel could be used to form perfect flairs every time. A plug screwed into the bottom could be an adjustable stop.

Has anyone found or made a settable neck flair tool?

smw

[mdi]

IIRC; my .38 and .44 Lee Loaders come with a flaring tool. The tapered part of the tool has a step at the "top" so the amount of flare is limited/controlled...

[Glassman66]

I started with a Lee Load Master progressive and moved to Lee Loaders. The progressive sure makes more faster. Changing calibers takes 30 min to an hour though, with moving the autodisk set, flair tool, and resetting all the depths.

The issue I have with the Lee Loader is flaring the case mouth for cast bullets. While I can do it with hand tools, its not quick nor precise. On my progressive, I can tune the flair tool to just open .001 more than the lead size and minimize neck metal fatigue.

I wonder if a bit of steel pipe cut to lenth for a stop and a plumb bob or similar large cone of steel could be used to form perfect flairs every time. A plug screwed into the bottom could be an adjustable stop.

Has anyone found or made a settable neck flair tool?

smw


Lee sells a flaring tool for the Lee Loader, only $8.

http://leeprecision.com/custom-flaring-tool-for-lee-loader.html





Randy