WW I Mauser with a history - need some info and help. ?? on re-loading also. Photos!

[bedbugbilly]

I need some help with several things in regards to a World War I Mauser that I have that I would like to re-load for and shoot. I re-load pistol ammo but have never reloaded a bottle-neck rifle cartridge. I want to start to accumulate what I’ll need and have a number of questions, both on this particular rifle and in regards to reloading the 8 X 57 Mauser cartridge.

History Of The Rifle

This rifle was given to me in the early 1960’s by my half-brother. His grandfather borught this rifle and another one like it home when he returned from France after the war. The gentleman was a local veteran who enlisted as soon as war was declared – primarily to escape a bad marriage. He went over on the same ship as General Pershing – something that he was always very proud of. I knew him when he was young and I have his uniform and misc. things that he had in the service as well. He never had a driver’s license his entire life and he served in the MTC (Motor Transport Corp) – either as a teamster at times or as a “laborer”.

The story goes that he and another friend got drunk one night and bet each other that they could sneak across no mans land and steal a German rifle. This is supposed to be one of them that he came back with – a good “story” but probably nothing to it. I suspect that this rifle and the other one were “battle field pick-ups”.

Other than me running an oiled patch down the barrel once in a while, I doubt that these have been fired since World War I as the veteran didn’t hunt or shoot. They were put away in a closet and pretty much remained there until his death when my half-brother had to settle his estate.

I would like to shoot “cast” out of this if possible and have no desire to load “hot” – just some light plinking rounds. I thought this might be a good project to get my feet wet in regards to re-loading bottle-neck rifle cartridges.

Overall, the rifle is in very good mechanical condition. The bore has strong rifling but is dark. I thought a little work with a cleaning rod and some polishing compound might brighten it up some. Bolt and barrel number match. Crown looks decent. Receiver is marked "Danzig 1905". Barrel and bolt marked "9557" (matching). I think it would be nice to brign this rille "back to life" and shoot it after it has been idle for close to 100 years.

I have tried to show photos of the various aspects and markings of the rifle so that information can be gathered on it and suggestions made as to how to proceed.

So . . . my questions

1. Brass & Dies – I thought I would purchase a 100 commercial casings so that I didn’t have to fool with “military brass”. I’m trying to do this on a budget (if there is such a thing?! LOL) and I need to know what I need to get in terms of a re-loading die set? I will probably go with a Lee set but am open to suggestions? I figured the new brass would have to be full length sized before loading and then after that, just neck sized as it will be “fire formed” for this rifle? Will I need a “neck sizing die”? What would be the best dies to have in regards to reloading this. I am getting a little confused between the 2 die sets, 3 die sets, Lee collar die, etc.

2. Suggested “boolit”? I will probably go with a Lee die unless I can come up with a good used Ideal/Lyman. I haven’t slugged the throat or bore yet and will do that as it is my understanding that the bores on a Mauser can vary? Once I slug the bore – how much larger do I want to go with the boolet? .002 larger as in pistol loading? Bullet weight for lighter loads? I should mention that I would plan on shooting this as a “single shot” rather than magazine feeding the cartridges – no hunting, just plinking.

3. Powder? – I have the Speers #14 and the Lee Manual which of course list the various powders/load data for the 8 X 57. I have no experience with rifle powders so need to know what would be some of the better selections to use for “light lead boolit” loads? I will start hunting for some but am not sure what I will find on the shelf. Any advice on loading “light loads”? Case fill and the need for a filler or just powder?

4. Value of Rifle? – My half-brother is now 83 and has moved in to a condo – no longer has the rifle that he kept hanging on the wall – standing in a closet now. He has offered to give it to me and I would like to have it but I want to pay him for it. The rifle is in the same condition as the rifle I have and have posted photos of. Normal stock wear – bangs, scratches, etc. Barrel and bolt numbers match. Metal the same condition and the bore on his is in good shape as well if I remember correctly when I cleaned it up for him – dark bore but heavy rifling. I don’t remember the arsenal markings or date on the one he has. What would be a fair value of it?

5. Restoration? – I know this rifle has a “history” but in the long run, it is still a tupical “mil-surp” firearm. I thought I would spend some time and see if I can steam some of the stock dents out of it. I have restored a number of original muzzle-loaders over the years and know enough to leave “panina”, etc. However, again, this is a “mil-surp” rifle so to speak. If I get it so it shoots well – what are your thoughts as to how much work should be done to clean it up? I’m going to work on the bore of course but should I go ahead and polish up the metal or leave it alone? In the photos, the metal finish appears better than it is - at least on the receiver, etc. No rust or pitting anywhere on the rifle but there is what I would call "staining" to the receiver, etc. as you might expect on a rifle like this that was exposed to the elements when originally used. The stock appears to have a boiled linseed oil finish so after I get as many dents steamed out as possible, that is what I will use on it to give the wood some “life” again.

Sorry for the length of this. I just thought some of the mil-surp folks might enjoy seeing this and I hope I can pick up more information as to the rifle.

I greatly appreciate any information, tips and suggestions as far as reloading for it as well. I’m studying my manuals and want to “do it right” so appreciate any help I can get. Thanks!

[462]

You will get many opinions, but . . .

I recommend Lee's deluxe die set, only because it comes with their collet neck sizer die. I prefer the in-line seating dies and use either Hornady New Dimension or Lyman Precision Alignment dies.

You will need some method of expanding the case mouth. I use Lyman M-dies with custom expander plugs.

Unless the rifle is has a tube magazine, I don't crimp the boolit.

I prefer a boolit that is .002" oversized.

For powders, look into Unique and 2400.

[lefty o]

thats a nice rifle, dont do any restoration work on it, doing so will destroy its value. a light cleaning, and oil the metal parts, and at most rub in a coat of thinned BLO on the stock.

[skeet1]

I believe around the time this rifle was built 1905 the Germans went from a .318 to .323 groove dia. You will want to slug your barrel to find out what you have. I had a 1905 Erfurt that had a .323 groove and yours is most likely the same but may not be.

Ken

[Multigunner]

I wouldn't steam the dents out on this rifle, because as you've said it has a history.
The dents and such reflect its use in combat.
If the rifle had not been captured (or picked up off the battlefield) then its dents and dings might have been the result of abuse not associated with combat, but rather careless handling by third world users or importers. Fed Ex has probably dinged up more stocks than the ROTC.
The worst damage found on milsurp rifles comes from being stacked like cordwood on pallets and dumped like sacks of fertilizer on a warehouse floor.

[UBER7MM]

Bill,

First off, what a great family heirloom. Congratulations!

Molds:
You'd want to slug your bore. +.002" is good diameter dimension as mention previously. I found that a good plinking boolit is the Lyman 323470 (165 grain). It's a "Loverin" design and has been proven for years. If steel molds and separate handles is outside of your budget, you might consider the aluminum Lee C-324-175-1R handled mold. I personally don't have experience with this particular mold, but members are continually referencing it, so it has a following.
.
Powders:
2400 was mentioned above; light loads of Unique can also be used. A must read for Military casters, is this sticky:
.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?13425-Cast-Bullet-Loads-for-Military-Rifles-Article
.
My personal preference is a medium burning powder such as IMR-4895. In those powders, 8x57 Mausers seem to like 60% loads compared to a jacketed boolit equivalent in the same weight. (My generalization, not an actual load). Get a Lyman manual and you'll see what I mean. They've been at cast boolit reloading for years. Good info.
.
New Equipment Needed:
A 8mm mold as mentioned above. As with straight walled cases, bottle necked cases need to be flared or belled at the mouth to get the cast boolit into the case when seating so as not to shave the sides of the lead boolit. Yet another tool to buy along with a full length die set. If you want to get hawg-wild-crazy about this new obsession, buy a 8x57 neck sizing die as well, but I digress....
.
Two rifles are better than one. Acquire your brother's rifle!

I hope this helps,

[gew98]

I need some help with several things in regards to a World War I Mauser that I have that I would like to re-load for and shoot. I re-load pistol ammo but have never reloaded a bottle-neck rifle cartridge. I want to start to accumulate what I’ll need and have a number of questions, both on this particular rifle and in regards to reloading the 8 X 57 Mauser cartridge.

History Of The Rifle

This rifle was given to me in the early 1960’s by my half-brother. His grandfather borught this rifle and another one like it home when he returned from France after the war. The gentleman was a local veteran who enlisted as soon as war was declared – primarily to escape a bad marriage. He went over on the same ship as General Pershing – something that he was always very proud of. I knew him when he was young and I have his uniform and misc. things that he had in the service as well. He never had a driver’s license his entire life and he served in the MTC (Motor Transport Corp) – either as a teamster at times or as a “laborer”.

The story goes that he and another friend got drunk one night and bet each other that they could sneak across no mans land and steal a German rifle. This is supposed to be one of them that he came back with – a good “story” but probably nothing to it. I suspect that this rifle and the other one were “battle field pick-ups”.

Other than me running an oiled patch down the barrel once in a while, I doubt that these have been fired since World War I as the veteran didn’t hunt or shoot. They were put away in a closet and pretty much remained there until his death when my half-brother had to settle his estate.

I would like to shoot “cast” out of this if possible and have no desire to load “hot” – just some light plinking rounds. I thought this might be a good project to get my feet wet in regards to re-loading bottle-neck rifle cartridges.

Overall, the rifle is in very good mechanical condition. The bore has strong rifling but is dark. I thought a little work with a cleaning rod and some polishing compound might brighten it up some. Bolt and barrel number match. Crown looks decent. Receiver is marked "Danzig 1905". Barrel and bolt marked "9557" (matching). I think it would be nice to brign this rille "back to life" and shoot it after it has been idle for close to 100 years.

I have tried to show photos of the various aspects and markings of the rifle so that information can be gathered on it and suggestions made as to how to proceed.

So . . . my questions

1. Brass & Dies – I thought I would purchase a 100 commercial casings so that I didn’t have to fool with “military brass”. I’m trying to do this on a budget (if there is such a thing?! LOL) and I need to know what I need to get in terms of a re-loading die set? I will probably go with a Lee set but am open to suggestions? I figured the new brass would have to be full length sized before loading and then after that, just neck sized as it will be “fire formed” for this rifle? Will I need a “neck sizing die”? What would be the best dies to have in regards to reloading this. I am getting a little confused between the 2 die sets, 3 die sets, Lee collar die, etc.

2. Suggested “boolit”? I will probably go with a Lee die unless I can come up with a good used Ideal/Lyman. I haven’t slugged the throat or bore yet and will do that as it is my understanding that the bores on a Mauser can vary? Once I slug the bore – how much larger do I want to go with the boolet? .002 larger as in pistol loading? Bullet weight for lighter loads? I should mention that I would plan on shooting this as a “single shot” rather than magazine feeding the cartridges – no hunting, just plinking.

3. Powder? – I have the Speers #14 and the Lee Manual which of course list the various powders/load data for the 8 X 57. I have no experience with rifle powders so need to know what would be some of the better selections to use for “light lead boolit” loads? I will start hunting for some but am not sure what I will find on the shelf. Any advice on loading “light loads”? Case fill and the need for a filler or just powder?

4. Value of Rifle? – My half-brother is now 83 and has moved in to a condo – no longer has the rifle that he kept hanging on the wall – standing in a closet now. He has offered to give it to me and I would like to have it but I want to pay him for it. The rifle is in the same condition as the rifle I have and have posted photos of. Normal stock wear – bangs, scratches, etc. Barrel and bolt numbers match. Metal the same condition and the bore on his is in good shape as well if I remember correctly when I cleaned it up for him – dark bore but heavy rifling. I don’t remember the arsenal markings or date on the one he has. What would be a fair value of it?

5. Restoration? – I know this rifle has a “history” but in the long run, it is still a tupical “mil-surp” firearm. I thought I would spend some time and see if I can steam some of the stock dents out of it. I have restored a number of original muzzle-loaders over the years and know enough to leave “panina”, etc. However, again, this is a “mil-surp” rifle so to speak. If I get it so it shoots well – what are your thoughts as to how much work should be done to clean it up? I’m going to work on the bore of course but should I go ahead and polish up the metal or leave it alone? In the photos, the metal finish appears better than it is - at least on the receiver, etc. No rust or pitting anywhere on the rifle but there is what I would call "staining" to the receiver, etc. as you might expect on a rifle like this that was exposed to the elements when originally used. The stock appears to have a boiled linseed oil finish so after I get as many dents steamed out as possible, that is what I will use on it to give the wood some “life” again.

Sorry for the length of this. I just thought some of the mil-surp folks might enjoy seeing this and I hope I can pick up more information as to the rifle.

I greatly appreciate any information, tips and suggestions as far as reloading for it as well. I’m studying my manuals and want to “do it right” so appreciate any help I can get. Thanks!

A good example of a been there done that gewehr98 . All the small parts like action screws , floorplate , follower , bands , and cleaning rod will sport the last two digits of the serial # 57.
The regimental disc is always a plus when marked ,. Yours is marked to the Bavarian 4th Reserve Infantry Regiment , 10th company. The germans switched the the S patronen in 1903. So your gew98 has a .323" bore from the get go. The pre 1903 gew98 bores were nominally .320 - .321 . There never was a german made gew98 in .318 bore as they learned some lessons on early gew88 problems with jacketed bullets of that day. When they did refurb pre 1903 gew98's they only replaced barrels when no longer serviceable , but the did modify the chamber & throat to accomodate the S patronen .323 bullet.

[Dutchman]

Mine is a Mauser Oberndorf 1917 that went to Turkey after WW1. Great rifles. Wish I had a better condition one.

http://images16.fotki.com/v382/photos/4/28344/9895637/DSCF1748-vi.jpg

[polara426sh]

You mentioned using the rifle single shot only, and not feeding from the magazine. Loading directly into the chamber can damage the extractor, as it is not designed to snap over the rim of the cartridge. It's design is such that the rim slips under the claw as it is being fed from the magazine.

[bedbugbilly]

Thank you all for the great information - it's greatly appreciated and please keep it coming!

I have learned a lot already! And polara426sh - thank you for the information in regards to loading as a single shot - I wasn't aware of that. I was thinking "single shot" in regards to the plinking as opposed to loading for hunting, etc. There's really no reason I couldn't load the magazine with more - I was just thinking of shooting and loading one at a time (if that makes any sense?). At any rate, however many I load - I'll load into the magazine first and then "bolt load" in to the chamber to avoid any problems. What you say makes sense!

The information on the regimental markings was very interesting. As I stated in the original post - I'm sure the "story" was embellished over the years and these are probably battlefield "pick ups". I forgot to mention that I also have a bayonet that he picked up - the one for this is the long think bladed bayonet in the leather scabbard. The bayonet my half brother has with his rifle is the saw back "butcher knife" in the metal scabbard. I also have a plain back "butcher knife" bayonet that was brought back by another local veteran.

Your points on leaving the stock as it is and just applying some BLO is well taken - I guess the rifle has "earned" all of the nicks, dents and scratches by "honest use" in the field and they should remain. I'll also leave the "patina" on the metal alone and just keep it well oiled.

Please keep the information, advice, etc. coming - I appreciate it and am getting anxious to work on this "project" and get components around to re-load for it. Why do I get the feeling that these old military rifles could become addictive as my vintage revolvers? LOL

I might also add that I've sort of been a "lurker" on the military rifle forum - enjoy reading and seeing photos of what others are doing. A great forum!

[bedbugbilly]

Dutchman - forgot to mention how nice your rifle looks. Can some advise as to why the "stock disc" is on the left side of your rifle and mine is on the right side? Just curious.

[Safeshot]

The Lee Web page lists the 8mm "Max" mold at a VERY LOW price. (You may want to get one while you can.) They are likely to "go fast". The mold is listed under "Categories" at the left side of the page under "Closeouts"

Even if the bore is "less than perfect" a lot of cleaning and some "fire lapping" may make it a very usable Cast Boolit shooter. You can always hone out the mold to enlarge the Boolit to fit the bore, if the bore is oversize. Be sure to check the bore size as previously suggested.

As also mentioned before, be SURE TO ONLY FEED THE CARTRIDGES FROM THE MAGAZINE! Unless you want to remove the extractor first, or break the extractor.

Good luck in your efforts. Safeshot

[lefty o]

Dutchman - forgot to mention how nice your rifle looks. Can some advise as to why the "stock disc" is on the left side of your rifle and mine is on the right side? Just curious.
thats not a stock disk on his rifle. its a takedown disk/tool used for bolt dissassembley in the field. it goes all the way through, and looks the same on both sides.

[RG1911]

As UBER7MM recommended, a Lyman reloading manual will be an excellent investment. The company has specialized in loads for cast bullets for a long time.

Having seen a number of crazy things during my service days, and heard my father's stories of combat in WWII and Korea, I might take the story of how the rifle was acquired with a bit of salt, but I wouldn't discount it completely. Boredom plus alcohol produces some interesting results.

Cheers,
Richard

[Safeshot]

The Lee Web Page also lists a Lee double cavity 8mm "KAR" Mold (with handles), at a good price as well.

You might even decide to get one of each.

[fguffey]

Two days ago I picked up 12 barrels, 5 were Mauser large shank, great on the outside, ugly on the inside. The rest were P14s with one 03. Two of the Mausers had counter bored muzzles, I would suggest you check the diameter of the muzzle.

F. Guffey

[runfiverun]

with any of the boolits listed above I'd try a load of 16-17 grs of 2400, it should shoot fairly well.
I like to tip the boolit up before I go to snap the round into the magazine, just to keep things the same from shot to shot.

[UBER7MM]

The Lee Web Page also lists a Lee double cavity 8mm "KAR" Mold (with handles), at a good price as well.

You might even decide to get one of each.

I've discovered that because of the large melplat, the "8mm Kar" boolit must be seated deep past the throat to get the cartridges to chamber, exposing sides of the lead boolit to the burning powder at ignition. (These are gas checked.) There is also chamber feeding issues that are related to COAL. I would assume these concerns would apply to the longer "8mm Max" as well.

I later found out that the "8mm Kar" & "8mm Max" molds were designed by forum members to breathe new life into throat worn Mausers.


with any of the boolits listed above I'd try a load of 16-17 grs of 2400, it should shoot fairly well.
I like to tip the boolit up before I go to snap the round into the magazine, just to keep things the same from shot to shot.

+ 1 runfiverun. Experimenting with fillers are in order, if I can get the time.....

[gew98]

I think assuming thorat wear on 8mm mausers is a bit of a stretch. German made gew98 and 98k barrels typically were made with a throat 2 to 3 calibers in length whereas typically made US sporting and military bores hang around a half caliber of throat. The design of the much longer throat by the germans is to help deal with potentially hot ammunition. The only time I ever had to seat bullets so far out on an 8mm bore was a couple gew98's that were war bond dewats. When I removed the chamber and muzzle obstructions the throats were usually damaged bad by the steel plug the french rammed in there. Some had absolute cherry bores but shot about as good as a worn out shotgun due to the throat damage. Seating them way out almost to and including soft loading on some to get them to shoot properly. In the end I scrapped all those damaged barrels .

[milsurpcollector1970]

I size my 8mm cast boolits to .325. I would go with the Lee 175 gr. I have the karabiner mold and it doesn't shoot very well.

G98 mausers are rarely seen anymore. The value on it especially if number match is a minimum of $500

[bedbugbilly]

milsurpcollector1970 - thanks for the info. I'm slowly getting my reloading components around for it. As an update - my dies are on the way and I'll be ordering my mold, case trimmer die, etc. from Titan probably tonight. I decided to go with the Lee 175 gr. mold. I read the sticky post on the CB Loads/Military Rifles on cast boolit loading for MilSurp Rifles. Lots of good information there for sure.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?13425-Cast-Bullet-Loads-for-Military-Rifles-Article

Yesterday, I did some cleaning on the Mauser bore. I had kept it oiled over the years but was concerned what it would end up like with the use of corrosive ammo in its early life. I wet the bore down well with Hoppes 9, let it set and then took a bronze burst in a drill and on low rpms, worked it back and forth the complete bore length. A number of patches through and a light coat of RemOil and it was as nice and shiny as can be - good rifling, no visible pitting, etc. so I'm hoping this will be a good shooter! I'm not going to try and steam any dents out - just keep the patina on the metal and oil it well and will keep working some BLO in to the stock.

All I have on hand is small pistol primers so while I'm waiting for things to come from Titan, I'll hunt up some rifle primers and see what I can find in terms of powder as well. I'm learning a lot - I found a couple of good videos on loading 8 X 57 - like anything new - I tend to "over think it" but I'm looking forward to getting my feet wet! As things progress - I'll post some updates.

A big thank you to all who have been kind enough to offer information and help - it's greatly appreciated!

[Multigunner]

There is a method for single loading a Mauser, You wrap the left hand under and around the magazine well and depress the spring blade of the extractor while easing the bolt forwards. It can be done fairly easily in the prone position, but not so easily in any position unless the fore end is supported.

[CastingFool]

Reloading bottle neck cartridges is not any more difficult than reloading pistol ammo. Just follow the instructions on how to set the dies. Make sure your cases are trimmed to .010" under the max length listed. Bottleneck cartridges do grow with the firing and reloading process. as far as crimping, just put a light crimp. If overly aggressive with the crimp, it can cause the case to wrinkle just under the shoulder, and the cartridge won't chamber. Try chambering the 1st round you reload, to see if it will chamber properly. Not fun loading 20 or 40 cases only to find out they wont chamber. Just my nickle's worth. Sounds like you have a couple of real neat rifles with some interesting history.

[Mk42gunner]

Please don't turn any more bore brushes with a drill; it sounds like an excellent way to ruin a bore.

Robert

[bedbugbilly]

Mk42gunner - please expound on that a little bit more please? Bore brushes are commonly used to clean bores - they are made of material much softer than the steel of a barrel. Lubed with oil, on an aluminum rod (also much softer than steel) and run at a low rpm - I'm a little confused as to how that is going to damage the bore? I'm not talking about cleaning a rifle barrel lin this manner every time or even more than an initial clean up of a bore that probably hasn't had anything through it since 1918.

Yes, when a bore burst is used on a rod and moved in and out by hand, as in normal cleaning, it is going "with the rifling". But "rotating" inside the barrel should have no effect on the rifling of the barrel since the bristles of the bore brush are "softer" than the steel. Now the "crud" in a dirty barrel could certainly act as an abrasive - but my barrel was not really "crudded" up - it had a good layer of oil and was just "darker" than a normal barrel that had been used right along.

Maybe there's something here that I'm not seeing?

Over the last 50 years, I have worked on many barrels - most of them original muzzle loading barrels in course of restoration work - everything thing from full size artillery to smoothbores, rifles and pistols. I have even "freshed" out the rifling on a number of original muzzleloading barrels by hand - a long and tedious process. Those days are behind me now but the one thing I was taught many years ago wass that always use a softer material on a steel barrel to avoid wear and take into consideration that foreign material can act as an abrasive so clean it the best as you can and then use plenty of oil.

In the end, my Mauser barrel is much "cleaner" than it was with no evidence of pitting or any real wear and the rifling is excellent in it - much better than the average milsurp picked up off a pallet of them that has had years of abuse. As I say, I was surprised at the condition of the bore but evidently, the man that brought this back from France must have kept it cleaned and oils. In talinw with my half-brother the other day, he said that there used to be three rifles that he broth back. He keep them stacked in the parlor for many years with a German helmet on tops of the muzzles. Prior to his death, another "shirt tail" relation ended up with one of the rifles and the helmet. That individual has passed away and there is no way of tracking that rifle down nor the helmet - they are "long gone".

[skeet1]

bedbugbilly (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?32430-bedbugbilly),
I thought I had read it somewhere and I found it in Frank de Haas "Bolt Action Rifles" In the "Mauser Model 98" section under "The 8mm Mauser Cartridge".

Mr de Haas says "The Germans soon wanted better ballistics from this cartridge, so about 1905 they adopted a new spitzer (pointed) bullet for the 8X57mm case, with a new diameter of .323. This cartridge was designated 7.9X57IS or 8X57IS. The new bullet weighed 154 grains and in the new cartridge it was driven to a muzzle velocity 2870 fps at a breech pressure of about 49,800 psi".

So there seem to be some question as to when there was a change in groove diameter. If your rifle was mine I would check and make sure what size barrel I have with a chamber and barrel cast.

Ken

[gew98]

bedbugbilly (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?32430-bedbugbilly),
I thought I had read it somewhere and I found it in Frank de Haas "Bolt Action Rifles" In the "Mauser Model 98" section under "The 8mm Mauser Cartridge".

Mr de Haas says "The Germans soon wanted better ballistics from this cartridge, so about 1905 they adopted a new spitzer (pointed) bullet for the 8X57mm case, with a new diameter of .323. This cartridge was designated 7.9X57IS or 8X57IS. The new bullet weighed 154 grains and in the new cartridge it was driven to a muzzle velocity 2870 fps at a breech pressure of about 49,800 psi".

So there seem to be some question as to when there was a change in groove diameter. If your rifle was mine I would check and make sure what size barrel I have with a chamber and barrel cast.

Ken

Does anyone here read older posts from collectors that are shooters as well ?. I'll do this one last time. There is NO discrepency when the germans went to the S patronen. Germany adopted the 88 Patronen in ... yep you guessed it 1888. Within the first months of issue with the gew88 rifle some things came to light like the .318 bores and the bullet jacket alloy causing some nasty fouling which lead to undue bore wear and burst barrels ( not blown up receivers like some inferior US products ) . Anyhow the germans were quick to go to a nominal .321 bore and study different alloys for bullet jackets which nulled those earlier issues. When they looked at the french Balle D bullet of 1893 they had an epiphany of sorts and saw the potential of the pointed bullet. Where they deviated with the french at that time was in making a lighter non boat tailed bullet of higher velocity. They increased the bullet diameter to .323 to match the math of their 'new' bullet. This new bullet and loading were introduced into service in 1903 . The only gew98 rifles you will find that left manufacture for the 88 patronen in 1903 were those initial runs made at Amberg arsenal as they were late comers to the gew98 and all it's updates ... especially as seeing 1903 was Ambergs first year of gew98 production. Too many get confused with the germans 1905 attempts at streeamlining ammo and weapons on hand to the same standards and just carry on those falsehoods like gossip. Anyhow using a drill with a borebrush is a good way to wreck rifling. I would suggest using such a combo only on the chamber for obvious reasons.