revolver malfuncion

[Finarfin]

I have a S&W 65-2 357. If you cock the hammer back you can push it forward with your thumb fairly easy and it will fall. I assume it would discharge if loaded. What is the problem and how do I fix it?

[ReloaderFred]

It's called "push off", and is a dangerous condition, which can result in an accidental discharge if not repaired. It's normally caused by someone trying to do their own "action job".

What is happening is the hammer is slipping off the sear notch. If not too severe, it can be repaired, or if too far gone, then the hammer or trigger, or even both, will need to be replaced. This should be done by a competent gunsmith, but can also be done by the factory. Call them for a return authorization.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[NSB]

ReloaderFred got it completely right. I had a "gunsmith" do a trigger job on a revolver of mine about twenty years ago. After I got it back it did this and I ended up sending it back to the factory for new parts. I learned a lesson. Shade tree gunsmiths are dangerous.

[Finarfin]

Thanks! If I ever get out his way, one of my uncle's is good with revolvers and I have been planning on letting him look at it.

Is it cheaper to send it to the factory?

Is there any reason why I can't just swap out the parts myself? I have never taken apart a revolver, so I don't know how complicated they are, but have worked on some rifles and take apart and put together my other guns. I did a trigger job with a hammer and sear replacement on a 10/22 that is more aftermarket than original now. Don't know how applicable those skills are. It actually patterns way better than my shotgun now. LOL.

[osteodoc08]

There's a lot more fitting that needs to be done by someone with experience. I also suggest the same. Factory or a good smith.

[Finarfin]

Ok. Thanks. Will do. I was hoping a simple swap out might handle it.

[BK7saum]

If this is from just a little wear, it is likely that the sear notch can be touched-up with a stone and all is good. If this is from a shade-tree gunsmith, then you might need to have the parts replaced.

If you keep "pushing-off" the hammer repeatedly, it will further wear/damage the parts. If the push-off takes several pounds of pressure to achieve, then it should not be inherently dangerous, because you should be pointing the firearm downrange at a target before it is cocked anyway.

I have a 686 that has a pushoff of several pounds. I plan to have it fixed, but at this time have not had the opportunity to take a revolver smith class or the opportunity to have it done. There are fewer and fewer revolver smiths out there these days.

[rintinglen]

The repair will most likely involve a new hammer, which, if you are lucky, will drop in, but don't count on it.
You will almost certainly find that if the hammer notch has been modified to the point where you can push it off easily, the case hardening has been cut through. Attempts to re-cut the hammer notch will therefore be unavailing, since you will be simply exposing more unhardened metal which will swiftly wear away, resulting in the same condition. Your choices are to remove the notch altogether, making the gun DA only or have the hammer replaced. Should replacement be the option you select, any semi-competent revolver smith can do this job. However, it will likely run well in excess of 150 bucks if the smith in question does not have a boat load of old hammers to go through to find one that fits. The modern MIM stuff will not readily interchange with the older frames.

[fourarmed]

I had a 657 that pushed off badly. I read Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual and followed the directions. It turned out fine, but many people have told me that I was extremely lucky. Also, I did not keep the gun long enough to know if the adjustment would hold indefinitely. An FFL holder can send it to the factory via parcel post, and it will not cost as much as sending it second day air.

[Petrol & Powder]

ReloaderFred hit the nail on the head! (couldn't resist the rhyme, sorry). He is correct about the push-off condition. I had a S&W 681 that was the victim of some "trigger job" by an idiot. I was able to save the hammer and return it to safe condition but most of the time you're looking at parts replacement. While you're looking at the action, check for other bubba hall marks like loose strain screws and severely clipped rebound springs.
Good news is that parts for a model 65 are readily available and that type of damage can easily be repaired. You definitely need to fix it.

[beezapilot]

I've sent several revolvers back to S&W for work- never been disappointed. The factory tour steered well away from the repair area tho- guide said people send the stupidest things in- loaded and cocked revolvers, semi autos with chambered rounds... that sort of thing. The up side is they have all the parts at their disposal, they work on S&W all day long, and from what I've experienced- take a great deal of pride in their work.