Powder Measure for Rifle Loads

[38 Super Auto]

I'd like to setup a single stage operation for loading rifle rounds. I have everything but a powder measure, so....

I need advice on a good powder measure for throwing charges of say 15 to 50 grains. I used to have a Uniflo, but I sold it :-o

I liked the Uniflow feel and performance, but am wondering if a Lyman 55, Lock and Load, or other measure is worth considering. Do any of these measures come standard with a baffle?

[mainiac]

I have three reddings,a model 3, a model 3br, and a model 30 br (i think). Wouldnt consider anything else. I use the 3br the most, they come with 2 inserts,1 for small pistol charges,and 1 for large rifle loads.The 30 br model is a special model that measures between 20 and 50 grains, made for benchrest applications. Very repeatable micrometer readings.

[andremajic]

You could try just using a 5.00 powder trickler and a scale if you're doing them one at a time, and not in high volume.

I use my uniflow for my .45 bullets, because I shoot that one a lot, and the consistency isn't as important for me, because it's for plinking with minimum velocities and loads.

I use the powder trickler and scale for my .50 cal. because I'm not doing a high volume of bullets, it helps ensure that all of my completed rounds are totally consistent.

Andy.

[PatMarlin]

I like the Uniflow.

My redding with match measure I bought used was bridging powders and way off. I was a little unhappy with it til I took it apart and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, and whoa.. that baby's accurate.

[dromia]

I have the RCBS, Lyman and Hornady along with a few others. They all do the job as advertised with their own foibles.

The Uniflow is a fine measure and if you've liked it in the past then confidence in your tools is going to be a good 50% of your success with them.

I do find Hornady's quick change micrometer system a real boon if you are swapping between powders often.

The Reddings are fine measures too.

Baffles really help to give consistency.

Lee's disk measure is a real accurate way of dropping powder as well and cheap. Being of the fixed cavity type its just real fiddly for setting increments for load development. Once you've settled on a load and know the cavities that will drop that load then it is a very accurate dispenser with no cutting of grains.

[Bret4207]

I have the Lyman 55 and the Redding with the pistol and rifle chamber. The Lyman has 2 or 3 adjustments to use to get the charge. The Redding 1. I leave the Lyman set at 13.0 gr Red Dot for my plinking loads in everything from 7x57 to 35 Whelen and use the Redding for most everything else. I also use a B+M for one off type experimental stuff.

I'm intrigued with the Lee disc type measures. Might try one some day. I'd also like an RCBS Little Dandy for the Peestols. Truth is I'd like one or two of everything and the time to play with them all!

[crowbeaner]

I have a Uniflow and that is the only measure I use. It's well over 30 years old and still does the job to within .1 grain. I like the look of the Hornady LNL one though.

[38 Super Auto]

Thanks for all of your suggestions. :drinks:

[NVcurmudgeon]

I have used the Lyman 55 and find it more fiddly than I have patience for. The Redding #3 is convenient to use, reminding me of the Uniflow. My Uniflow is about 35 years old and does all rifle applications just fine. Most of my pistol loads are thrown by the measure in a Dillon machine. For small experimental lots of pistol loads, or weird foreign pistol ammo not used in high volume, I like the Hornady pistol measure. The Hornady's sliding operation is much faster for me than the rotating operation of other pistol measures. Bottom line is that you can't go wrong with any reputable reloading manufacturer's products. Just get the one that you like best.

[PatMarlin]

Ditto on the Lyman 55.

[Maven]

Yes, the Lyman #55 measure can be a bit "fiddly" as Bill said, but there are two things you can do to improve its consistency. First, buy (from Lyman) or make an insert for the hopper that insures a constant "head" of powder reaches the metering chamber. Second, keep a detailed notebook of each setting for every powder type and charge weight you use. This makes set-up and reproduceability much easier. Naturally, the #55 is happier with ball powders, even WC 820*, than extruded or stick varieties, but mine digests AA 5744 & IMR 4198 quite nicely. Incidentally, don't even think about using IMR 5010 in the #55 for if you do, you'll promptly discover all you ever wanted to know about powder bridging and perhaps some new words to express that experience too.


*It will bind when using WC 820, but still throw quite accurately. However, you WILL need to take it apart to clean the innards afterwards.

[Swagerman]

The most important point that was mentioned here...keep the PM clean after using. Then it will be spot on with its powder throws.

My present fave is the No. 3 powder measure with the two metering chambers, rifle and pistol.

Jim



This is an old beater I restored, now has new metering chambers...


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/P3310028Compl.jpg

[brshooter]

For powder measures that out preform all others, try http://harrellsprec.com. These measures are the state of the art. Gradulated marks with click adjustments on the measuring barrel, if you keep track of your settings, just dial them in for the next time you want that powder load. Removeable powder bottles with caps both ends to store the powder. Lynwood and Walter Harrell are great guys to deal with. Power measures use ball bearings both sides of the measure to insure smooth operation. Pricey, yes, but worth it. They are pretty much a standard in benchrest, for the repeatibility is superb. They have 4 clicks between each mark to make adjustablily a pleasure. Models measure up to 120 gr. of powder. I have no stock nor am paid to tout thier products, but own 3 of them and am extremely pleased with each one.

[PatMarlin]

Mines a newer Mod 3 Redding, but I don't think it was ever cleaned.

It was a mess, so I cleaned it and lightly polished the mating surfaces with 0000 steel wool, and then reswabbed with rubbling alcohol and it literly came back to life with 8 out of 10 throws dead on, and the other 2 just barely a gnat's ass hair off.

THat was with RL-7.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

I've made a few "improvements" to my three model 3 Reddings.

1- The first, was to fabricate new counterbalanced operating levers, out of 1/8"x1" steel bar, and brass lamp finials for handles. These levers allow the measure to rest in the "dump" position, preventing variations in loads, due to packing in the chamber from vibrations.

2-The second, was to drill and tap a hole for a set screw, on the handle side of the drum, in line with the hole for the micrometer lock/drum retaining screw. This allows the micrometer chamber to stay locked, while adjusting the charge. A side benefit, is that by adjusting the position of the hole the set screw enters, the measuring chamber can be set EXACTLY flush with the drum surface, giving more accurate loads, with less jamming of fine flake powder. All the new Reddings have this.

3- the third, was to drill and ream the pistol chamber, to 3/8", and make a new ram. This, I use for medium rifle loads, like their "Benchrest chamber" does.

Morgan

[Jon K]

Harrells + 1 ditto, ditto, I had 2 RCBS Uniflow, 1 Lyman 55, 1 Lyman 55 BP, 1 Redding #3, 1 Redding BR3. I bought the Harrells and now only have it and the Lyman 55. I use the Lyman 55 for small charges under 5 grains, and use the Harrells for everything else.

The Harrells is not for everyone, the price will scare most off but if you want repeatablility, smooth precise charging. No more double knocking & rappingthe handle and hoping the setting repeats. What attracted me to it is that it is capable of throwing a large charge(BP 45-90).

Jon

[mainiac]

Mines a newer Mod 3 Redding, but I don't think it was ever cleaned.

It was a mess, so I cleaned it and lightly polished the mating surfaces with 0000 steel wool, and then reswabbed with rubbling alcohol and it literly came back to life with 8 out of 10 throws dead on, and the other 2 just barely a gnat's ass hair off.

THat was with RL-7.

Had my redddings for many years,and have thrown many 10,s of thousands of charges,and aint never had them apart for cleaning. Always repeatable.Cant even see threw the powder hoppers anymore,completly black.

[PatMarlin]

I've made a few "improvements" to my three model 3 Reddings.

1- The first, was to fabricate new counterbalanced operating levers, out of 1/8"x1" steel bar, and brass lamp finials for handles. These levers allow the measure to rest in the "dump" position, preventing variations in loads, due to packing in the chamber from vibrations.

2-The second, was to drill and tap a hole for a set screw, on the handle side of the drum, in line with the hole for the micrometer lock/drum retaining screw. This allows the micrometer chamber to stay locked, while adjusting the charge. A side benefit, is that by adjusting the position of the hole the set screw enters, the measuring chamber can be set EXACTLY flush with the drum surface, giving more accurate loads, with less jamming of fine flake powder. All the new Reddings have this.

3- the third, was to drill and ream the pistol chamber, to 3/8", and make a new ram. This, I use for medium rifle loads, like their "Benchrest chamber" does.

Morgan

You have pics of your mods Morgan? AT least the handle? They sound great..
:drinks:

[utk]

In this first forum post you can find templates for fabricating your own powder baffle:

http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=34885&highlight=baffled

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Pat here it is: The set screw to lock in the measuring chamber can be seen at about 11:00. The Allen set screw is pointed, and the hole for it in the chamber has a slight chamfer. This allows you to slightly move the chamfer, to adjust the vertical position of the chamber, in relation to the drum surface, bringing it to a perfect fit. This fitting, can be done with all chambers used in the unit.

Morgan


http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1817.jpg

[Larry Gibson]

I also prefer the Lyman 55 and have 2 of them. It's not really all that "fiddly for me and it throws very consistant charges with ll but the large, long extruded powders. I seldom use the fine slide (actually have it epoxied to the medium slide on one). The graduations on the large slide get me close and the medium slide fine tunes the powder charge. Using the knocker consistantly with 1, 2 or 3 knocks depending on the powder gives very uniform wieght of powder. With ball or fine extruded powders wieights are accurate to +/- .1 gr. Consistancy in use is the key to the 55 as it is with any thrower. I've tried numerous other measure/throwers over the years but prefer the accuracy of the Lyman 55.

The one exception is the Lee. I use the Lee thrower for coarse gr extruded powders. It throws accurately enough that little powder from a trickler is then needed to bring the powder charge to weight.

Larry Gibson

[4t5]

My Redding 3BR will throw +/- .1 grain all day long, even with tough to work with powders like 4895.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I've owned or own the RCBS Uniflow, the Redding BR30 and the Hornady LnL powder measures. I like all three equally well for manual operation, but I've found the Uniflow and the Hornady really respond well for accurate, consistent measurements when hooked up to their company's case activated powder drop.

I'm not sure what it is about the case activated powder drop, but with both measures I get rock solid measurements using about any powder I put in the measures, including 4895. I should note that it does require the appropriate drum and micrometer. I've been ecstatic with the loads accuracy I've gotten, even more consistent than the higher priced Redding.

You can use the case activated powder drops (Both Hornady and RCBS make them, pick your poison.) in either a single stage, turret or progressive press. They set up pretty much like a die and really do a nice job. I've got one I use with a RCBS Uniflow on my Lee Classic Turret press to reloading rifle with extruded powder and I have another I use with my Hornady LnL AP progressive and Lee Classic Cast single stage.

I don't use them for pistol as I find it much more convenient to use a Lee powder through expanding die and a Lee Pro Auto Disk for pistol powders. With the case expanders installed, the case activated powder drops can be fiddly to setup.

Regards,

Dave

[Morgan Astorbilt]

You can see the Hornady case activated powder measure die in the photo I posted of the Reddings. It's the red powder measure in the background.
Morgan

[WKAYE]

Dave ,
I have the same measures that you do. The only addition I made to those 3 was the Lee, after reading an article in Prercision Shooting. At the time I was using a lot of IMR 4350 and it was said the Lee was the best with those types of powders.

[FromTheWoods]

Would the Harrell's powder measure adapt to a Dillon 550B?

Which one would serve to load from 3.0 grains of Titegroup to 50 grains of H380, with 34 grains of H4895 in there too?

[brshooter]

The Harrell's measure would be a terror to adapt to a dillon 550B. For the different types of measures they make. check out "http://www.harrellspec.com/". They are nice people to deal with, in addition they sell a great product. Jon

[brshooter]

The Harrell's measure would be a terror to adapt to a dillon 550B. For the different types of measures they make. check out "http://www.harrellspec.com/". They are nice people to deal with, in addition they sell a great product. Jon

To look at the Harrell's products, go to http://www.benchrest.com., on main page, on the left there is a list in red. click on acessories (top Item) then look on the menu for Harrell's . Sorry about the mislead above.