Lyman 55 Questions

[jonp]

I bought a good used Lyman 55 from a member here and I tried to search for the answers to these questions but can not find the proper thread. If someone could answer them or point to threads I would appreciate it very much.

1) How do you get the plastic reservoir off? I want to wipe it out but the instructions don't say and I don't want to break it in the process

2) When measuring IMR 4064 I'm getting a 1-2gr variance in charge. Is this normal for this type of powder and how does everyone deal with it? Should I undercharge and trickle to get to where I want? I can also hear it crunch the powder like it is cutting it. Normal and should I be concerned that this will affect the burn rate or just forget it?

3) Promo: I'm trying to go up from 4.2 to 4.4gr. I can get to 4.4gr with a range of 4.3gr-4.5gr. Is this normal and should I trickle the last bit?

4) Static: I pulled it apart, cleaned it with alcohol and then wiped it down with a dryer sheet for static. That seems to work but instead of taking it apart to clean could I use an anti static spray and will the spray contaminate the powder enough that I should avoid poring this powder back into the 8lb keg?

[Maven]

jonp Although I've never had a static issue with my Ly. 55, it's not a bad idea to wash the powder res. with dish soap and water rather than an anti-static preparation. A dryer sheet is plenty good for that. Btw, the reservoir is a press fit to the body, so you essentially twist it off. As for extruded powders such as IMR 4064, you need to work with all 3 adjustable "slides," your powder scale, and trickler. And yes, you generally set the #55 so that it throws a bit light, and then trickle the charge to get the exact weight. You'll also want to keep a record of your settings for a given charge of each propellant that you use. I realize this is time consuming, but sometimes you get lucky and will find the measure is dead on, which is a HUGE time saver. In sum, the #55 is a reliable measure that does not worse with coarse powders than other similar measures.

[Alablam]

Jonp, if you think you're having a static problem with your measure, you might also take a look at your scale. A 30+ som'thin' year old Lyman manual warned about plastic ( I think styrofoam?) trays affecting balances. Years ago, I noticed that a charge of Unique bobbing up and down on my Redding balance was getting lighter with each oscillation. I took a finger and placed it lightly on the base and put another on another metal object and the balance beam centered. I think the magnetic dampening was "charging up the powder" with each swing of the beam. I now just keep thrown charges within +/- 0.2 gr. with my 55 measure on cold dry days because that's as close as I trust my scale to read.

[too many things]

the older ones screw on the newer ones snap in, once snapped in for long they wont come out with out breaking . don't try to remove as the stain wont come off. Next the 4064 you need all the plates even. the flake only use the top 2. the TAP/ double with the handle works better than the knocker. as for static. that could be you reloading area. humidity or lack of. Clean with alcohol the kind you get in the paint area, and sun dry or hair dryer.
don't store powder, like the new nitro stuff it will eat the plastic

[TaylorS]

I've found similar problems with varget in mine but titegroup throws perfect every time I'll try useing the 3td pull out on my next run though!

[monadnock#5]

1) I've never replaced a reservoir so no help there. 2)The 55 was designed to cut extruded powder. When apart for cleaning take care handling the brass drum. I can attest to how easily the sharp edges cut fingers. 3) I don't use Promo but get pretty close to deadnutz readings using Unique and BE. 4) Fill the reservoir with powder, place the plastic cap over the tube and spray the outside of both the tube and the meter in a straight line, top to bottom, 180° apart. Let dry for 2 minutes. This works very well for me.

One quirk of both my 55's is that the slides have a warp in them. When tightening the thumbscrew, it doesn't actually bottom without the judicious use of a 6" Crescent wrench. Without the wrench, my 55's WILL, at some point in the operation, go WAY out of tolerence fast.

[GrantA]

I got frustrated with my 55 (older smooth grey one, not the grey/black model) not throwing consistently. I took the thumbscrew out and realized then end of it was hollow, maybe it used to have something about the size of a BB in it to press against the slide. I snipped a piece of #12 copper wire maybe 1/8" long and slipped it in the end of the thumbscrew- hasn't missed a beat since!