Factory load data powder etc.

[1wise1]

Is there any way to find out what kind of powder and how much of it factory loads contain? They print on the boxes the weight of the projectile but that's it. I'm reloading 124 grain Bayou Bullets over 4-plus grains of Bullseye. Started at a much lower charge - 3.4 grains and that wouldn't even run the action in my 9mm Ruger and only ran in my Glock 26 about 50 percent of the time.
I realize my first need is a chronograph but until the guns at least run, it will be a joke to worry about fps.

Yes, the bullets do fly out the front of the gun... not drip but I sure wouldn't want to have to defend myself with this pitiful performance.

[knifemaker]

Don't you have reloading manuels that will give you start & max load data with velocity in their test gun? Knowing what amount of powder the factory puts in a load may not do you any good at all as the factory loads may contain powders that are not available to reloaders.
If your 3.4 gr. load was a starting load, work up until you get a reliable function load staying within the max load limits according to your reloading manuel.
Trying to match factory loads for velocity can be easy with a chronograph. Get a reading on the factory load and work up in your loads until you match the factory load using the same bullet they used in the factory load. There will be times you may not be able to match the factory load with the powder you happen to use because you reach the max safe load weight of powder without getting the velocity you wanted.

[Bullwolf]

Current modern load data shows a 9mm Luger 125 grain JHP.
(Start) 3.9 grains of Bullseye at 979 FPS
(MAX) 4.5 grains of Bullseye at 1073 FPS.

This load is using a Loaded Cartridge Overall Length of 1.075, and velocity is from a 4 inch barrel. Source is the Lyman 49th reloading handbook.

The Alliant Powder online re-loaders guide shows a max charge of 4.4 grains of Bullseye with a 124 grain gold dot JHP, and a loaded cartridge overall length of 1.12 (Reduce load 10% to establish a starting load, and work up)

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx

Without a chronograph, you pretty much need to stick to book Overall Lengths and powder charges. I feel more comfortable verifying velocities with a chronograph, especially when tweaking seating depths.

This should go without saying, but increasing seating depth (shrinking your OAL) will consequently increase pressure.

You seem to be at the bottom end of the suggested starting load data and likely need to work your load up some until you find reliable cycling in your guns.

Factory powder charges often will not translate well, if at all to canister reloading powders. They use different powder with different varying burn rates than what we as re-loaders have available, in some cases working up different loads for each separate batch of ammunition produced.

Since we do not have access to the same powders the factory uses, measuring the powder charge of a factory round will be little or no help to you. However, measuring the velocity of a factory round and coming close to it with reloading canister powder will give you a better overall picture of what is going on in your particular gun.

Hope the information helps some.


- Bullwolf

[dromia]

Usual practice is to consult your load manuals to find a powder/bullet combination that replicates the performance you are looking for and work up from there.

[1wise1]

Usual practice is to consult your load manuals to find a powder/bullet combination that replicates the performance you are looking for and work up from there.

Understand that but it's that "replicates the performance" part that isn't working. To get the performance I am walking a thin line on the maximum listed in the Alliant Bullseye data.

[Bent Ramrod]

Powder manufacturers don't make a run of Bullseye, or a run of 3031,or whatever. They make batches of powders with granulations that look like Bullseye or 3031, but they can't control the way the granulations burn except in a very general way. The canister grade powder the companies sell for reloading is carefully blended to very consistent burn rates and pressure curves. What they use in their own ammunition manufacture can change markedly in burn rate and pressure from lot to lot of powder. The manufacturers arrive at the proper loading by burning samples of the powder batches they buy in combustion bombs and checking the pressure/time curves. A "factory load" of powder can vary by several grains, depending on the ballistics of the batches of powder they load with.

If you're having trouble getting the performance you want with Bullseye, all you can do is check out other (maybe slower) canister powders until you find one that performs the way you want in your guns. Lacking a ballistics lab, that's all a handloader can do.

[dromia]

Understand that but it's that "replicates the performance" part that isn't working. To get the performance I am walking a thin line on the maximum listed in the Alliant Bullseye data.


Then you will need to look at another powder as obviously Bullseye isn't suitable for your needs.

[303Guy]

BullsEye in 9mm Luger? That's a fast powder for 9mm! Think Longshot or similar.

[Sweetpea]

I found bullseye to be excellent in 9mm, your mileage may vary, but try closer to four grains.

[gray wolf]

B/E should work,
Me thinks something is missing, as in not getting all the info.

[mdi]

A whole bunch of suggestions, but I'd say go back to step 1. Look in your reloading manual for a 9mm load with your bullet and Bullseye. Load 5-10 rounds at the starting load. If your gun fails to cycle, add 1/2 grain of powder and repeat until your load functions the gun. Continue raising the powder charge until you get the accuracy that suits you, then you can tweek the load up or down by .2 grain until you reach the accuracy and performance you want.

BTW; Bullseye ain't too fast for my 2, 9mm pistols, works great in a Tokerev, and an FMK...

[fredj338]

Almost all the manuf load their ammo with NON canister powders. So weighing charges & guessing at what powder they use is pointless. Just go to the manual, look up the vel level you want & what powder gets you there with pressure room to spare. If you are pushing any powder to get your vel level, you are using the wrong powder, go a step slower powder to achieve higher vel with lower pressures.
The issue with all moly coated bullets is they will need more powder to achieve the same vel/pressure as non moly. So starting loads will be less than adequate for moly lead.