Lead buildup on cylinder

[jsheyn]

Any suggestions on how to remove this buildup? I've tried soaking in CLP overnight.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/18/yjavadab.jpg

[C. Latch]

I'd worry more about why it was there than how to remove it. I'd think a little rubbing with a bronze-bristle brush would remove it.

[jsheyn]

I asked local gunsmith and he didn't have an answer...said the cone looked good

[EdS]

Could your boolit diameter be a little smaller than the cylinder throats? Hot gas blow-by moving some lead from the boolit to the cylinder? -Ed

[ReloaderFred]

Stainless steel wool will remove it without damaging the bluing. You just have to make sure it's really stainless steel, though. It will come right off with very little effort.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[jhalcott]

You don't say WHAT brand of gun this is, BUT it MAY be slightly out of time. Do you notice any "spitting" out the side? Tape a piece of paper over the cylinder gap far enough away that the escaping gasses will not tear it. Fire a cylinder full and check for holes in the paper. My brother had a German made revolver that had ONE chamber out of line. The company replaced that cylinder.

[jsheyn]

You don't say WHAT brand of gun this is, BUT it MAY be slightly out of time. Do you notice any "spitting" out the side? Tape a piece of paper over the cylinder gap far enough away that the escaping gasses will not tear it. Fire a cylinder full and check for holes in the paper. My brother had a German made revolver that had ONE chamber out of line. The company replaced that cylinder.
It's a smith and wesson 586 4"

I'll give it a try

[Tar Heel]

An "orange stick" will remove it. Failing that, a popsicle stick may work too. Just gently scrape it. If you have lead there, you should also see it between the top strap and the forcing cone. I would wager you have an alloy issue (too soft) or a high pressure issue going on. Are you hot rodding your cast bullets with this 357 Mag?

[MtGun44]

Hard oak scraper with a sharp edge will usually pop this stuff off and
cannot harm the finish. What throat diameter and what boolit diameter?
This is not normal, IME.

Bill

[jsheyn]

An "orange stick" will remove it. Failing that, a popsicle stick may work too. Just gently scrape it. If you have lead there, you should also see it between the top strap and the forcing cone. I would wager you have an alloy issue (too soft) or a high pressure issue going on. Are you hot rodding your cast bullets with this 357 Mag?
far from hot rodding....if anything I'm In the other direcrion.

these were NOE358477 and 3.9grain of Scot 453 for 800fps in 38spl brass

gun is pretty new to me and have not slugged it yet

[Tar Heel]

far from hot rodding....if anything I'm In the other direcrion.
these were NOE358477 and 3.9grain of Scot 453 for 800fps in 38spl brass
gun is pretty new to me and have not slugged it yet

For starters, I suggest using 357 Mag brass for your loads. Using 38-SPL brass will contribute to "ringing" in the cylinder throat. This is lead buildup in front of the 38 case where a normal 357 case would rest. Once this starts to accumulate, chambering a 357 round is next to impossible and the lead buildup is very hard to remove.

Second....the cylinder looks pretty used with the finish rubbed off. I assume it is in fact a 357 Mag cylinder? Other posters have suggested slugging it to see what you have and I whole-heatedly agree with them.

I am not familiar with Scot 453 as a propellant so can't and won't comment there except to say I prefer other propellants for my 38 Special loads and/or lighter 357 Magnum loads. I find that straight Wheel Weight (WW) alloy works just fine at these velocities in the 38/357 realm.

Size bullets for or .001 over throat diameter if you can determine what that is. Hopefully the cylinder throats will be slightly larger than bore (groove) diameter. If smaller, accuracy will suffer but that is another matter.

So...check your alloy. Use WW to make life easy. Size to or .001 over cylinder throat. Use 357 Mag brass and a fast propellant akin to Bullseye or HP38.

Let us know what ya find out!

[44man]

Very common in the .38 with dead soft wad cutters.

[stu1ritter]

I get the same leading on almost all of my .38/357 revolvers. I'm shooting BHN 10 cast at throat size from several different molds. I seem to get this leading on the outside of the cylinder no matter the load level. I shoot a 586 and a 19. Both revolvers have no excess space anywhere, either head or barrel/cylinder and they don't spit. I just scrape it off with bronze wool/kroil and keep shooting.
Stu

[44man]

The .38 is a very small case so it needs fast powders. Peak is reached about the time the boolit is transitioning the gap so gas pressure cuts the base.

[jsheyn]

Went and shot it last night here is pic before I cleaned it

100 rounds shot

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/19/asuteqe4.jpg

[canyon-ghost]

Make sure that after you clean the lead, that ALL the copper fouling is removed. If you run lead bullets over the top of copper fouling, you get a big mess occasionally. Seems the copper will grab lead and lube and make a mess. I've had revolvers need 4 cleaning sessions with a bronze brush before they are clean enough for soft lead. That looks like normal fouling from powder but, there's a lot of it.