New workshop

[dilly]

So I'm getting a workshop to move my reloading stuff out of the spare room. It's going to be a 12x16 shed with a loft. It'll have to do a small amount of double duty as yard equipment storage, but that won't take too much space.

I figure there's a lot of experience on setting up reloading rooms around here. I was just looking for ideas on setting up the new space.

Rust prevention for presses, dies, etc.?
Handy systems to keep things clean and make space?

Things you wish you had done to yours, or things you are glad you did to yours; any of that would interest me.

[blackthorn]

12x16 is about the size of my reloading shed. It is too small!!! I keep extra brass, presses, dies etc. in my big work shop that is 30x40. It is also too small!!! My reload shed has 2 benches 2'x4' (with shelves on the back) and 2'x6.5' for my 2 tumblers, vise and general work area. There is a 4' wide gun rack and a 2'x4' steel "safe" with the rest of the walls taken up with shelves. I screwed a 2 drawer set of old metal card files to the underside of the 2x4 foot loading bench to hold the dies I use most often. The right bench leg is a 4x4 that raises about a foot above the bench top and it is drilled with holes that accept the Lee "wack-a-mole" loader bits. It is drilled in a way that allows the dead primers to fall down into an old veggie can. Haven't used the Lee set up in several years so now the holes get used for holding small bench tools such as the hand case mouth trimming tool etc. My scale sits at eye level on a back-bench shelf.

[bangerjim]

I use my 12x16 model shop (small versions of all my big tools in my big ship - mill, lathes, drills, sanders, thickness planer, welder, etc) as my reloading shop. You do not need a ton of space! I keep all my lead outside....the floor will not take all the weight!!!!!!!

Here in the desert, I do not have to worry about rust on tools!

But an efficient, compact bench and area is a necessity. Make a dedicated place/nook/cranny for everything! ( and plan for more "stuff"....us loaders seem to like to buy a LOT more more "stuff"!) And label all the bins, tubs, boxes so you know what is there at a glance. I also color code my lead ingots by alloy so I can grab exactly what I need without squinting and reading stamps on the ingots. I just spray the ends with colored tinting lacquer.

Being an old Iowa boy.......I know you WILL need a window A/C!!!!!! I know what the humidity and temps can be in the midwest! I have a 9K BTU unit that will take my shop from 95 to 77 in about 20 minutes. Insulation!!!!!!!.....R32 ceilings & ~R22 in all the walls and 2" foam on the doors. I use a small space heater in the dead of winter (AZ!).

As said above.....build your bench for your comfort height! I am 6'1" and any standard bench is too short. I put 4x4 oak timber on each side to raise them up.

Good luck in your new digs!

banger

[dverna]

Figure what you might need in 5 years and double it.

I am selling a lot of stuff off because I am jammed with goodies. If I find a "deal", I cannot pass it up.

My shop is heated and insulated. Almost a must living in northern MI. You will need AC where you are. Look at Your power needs. Running larger cable is not that much more and install a decent sized breaker box so you have plenty of circuits.

There is a sticky on reloading rooms that has some good stuff in it.

Don Verna

[OuchHot!]

For rust prevention, try a slip of vpi paper (Brownells) in each die box. I found a low wattage incandescent lamp hanging sorta near my table saw keeps most of it above the dew point and rust free.....maybe that would work for the bench equipment?

[Jack Stanley]

For a shed climate control is a must or get ready for rust . I've seen loading tools that were used/left in an unheated garage and they were a sad sight . If you're building make sure the walls and floors are sixteen inches center to center . Minimum three quarter inch plywood floor and use lag screws to fasten the bench to the wall and floor .

Jack

[dilly]

I was looking at the reloading room/bench sticky too.

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Keep them coming. Let me learn from your mistakes. :)

[bangerjim]

One thing I forgot to mention......power! Don mentioned it and it is very important. I ran 8 gauge 220v to my back model shop. Now the AC can kick on, the compressor can start, my lead pots are on, table saw can start.......and the 6 flouresence lights do not even dim!!!!!!! Can run either my 120 v or 220v welder also!

Plan ahead.

Have fun planning!

bangerjim

[dilly]

For air conditioning, what do you guys think of those air conditioners that sit on the floor and have a hose outdoors? I saw some of those have a dehumidifier.

[bangerjim]

For air conditioning, what do you guys think of those air conditioners that sit on the floor and have a hose outdoors? I saw some of those have a dehumidifier.

Very poor and really do nothing but move air. Have several friends that have them and they are a waste of floor space, money and time.

Cut a hole in your wall and put in a window AC unit of appropriate BTU's for you space and location.

And never look back!

bangerjim

[Cherokee]

In Dallas I had a 12x16 room with a window unit that combined AC for summer and heat for the winter; worked great for the 10 years I was there. Need power, more lights and outlets than you think. Construction should allow for lots of shelves with proper support; shelving was 2x12's for no sag. Bench should be sturdy and bolted to the wall. I never had any rust problems so don't know about that.

[bgokk]

Cut a hole in your wall and put in a window AC unit of appropriate BTU's for you space and location.

And never look back!

bangerjim

That's what I did and an electric wall heater. They cover all seasons.

[dilly]

Any of you guys have a hood or anything?

There are a few things I do indoors but could probably use a bit of extra ventilation.
A) Casting with my RCBS Pro Melt
B) Powder coating
C) If I had a really good setup I might even smelt dirty lead indoors, but I could survive doing that outside if it were necessary.

[bangerjim]

A REEEEEEELY powerful vent hood (not the standard whimpy kitchen fans!) could be used inside, but I have not idea of the cost. And it would totally suck any heat or cool you have inside out the hood!

Here in AZ I smelt, cast, PC and just about everything messy & smoky outside my shop. I just melted down a batch of pure and had the evap cooler going......and was very comfortable with temp around 101. In the winter very comfortable in the low 60's.

But I lived in the midwest for a long time and realize you do not have our weather!

If you want a hood, be sure you have a very powerful squirrel cage fan to move the air. You almost need an a/c air handler size unit and duct it into your hood to suck the "stuff" outside.Those will move a ton of air.

Good luck with your "hoodie!".

banger

[dilly]

I guess I was just kind of wondering about the feasibility. Sounds like it may be out of my price range for the time being.