Swiss cheesing a Ruger single action gripframe

[Piedmont]

I was looking at Bowen's Custom Revolver book tonight and there was a picture of an Old Model Blackhawk fitted with Colt front and rear straps and a leaf main spring. This made me pull the grips off a Super Blackhawk of mine and there is just so much extra steel on the interior of the grip frame that it must be possible to substantially lighten a steel Blackhawk, or Super Blackhawk, or Bisley grip frame by drilling/milling the extra out. I would be leery of doing so with an aluminum grip frame, however, because it might not be strong enough to take the recoil after doing so.

My main complaint of the new Rugers built on the mid size frame in all steel is that they are too heavy. It may be possible to lighten them ounces by doing this and I know I am not the only one to think of this. Has anyone here done so? How much weight did you save and would you happen to have a photo?

I am envisioning a Ruger mid frame that is approaching a Colt in weight. Either a New Vaquero or Flattop. The easy way would be to go with an aluminum grip frame and that would serve from a weight perspective, but it wouldn't be an XR3 grip frame (Colt shaped) on a New Model and the all steel Ruger is classier and better looking than one with aluminum parts. (I need all the help I can get in those two areas.)

[bob208]

I don't think there is enough metal in that grip frame to drill out ounces. 1oz.is the weight of a 500 gr. bullet. you think you can get that many chips out to balance 2 of them and still have a usable grip frame?

[DeanWinchester]

I think this would be a bad idea. The things Bowen classic arms does with a handgun are typically best left up to people like....Hamilton Bowen. Ruger doesn't know as much about the Ruger Blackhawk as that man does.

I do know the man is pretty good about responding to emails. Why not just ask him. He would certainly know. He's answered a couple of emails I sent him and I even made it clear I was WAY to financially challenged to afford his level of perfection. He laughed and said he took that as a complement, and still told me what I wanted to know about my Blackhawk.

[scattershot]

Me, too. I don't think the results would be worth the effort.

[Moonie]

Why not use the aluminum grip frame the standard NMBH in blue uses?

[W.R.Buchanan]

Hell you can just call him, and he will spend as much time on the phone as you need to understand what you want.

He is not in any way over priced or even high priced for what he does, and he does very nice work.

If you have a Hamilton Bowen Custom Sixgun, you have a very valuable piece of artillery.

Randy

[DougGuy]

My main complaint of the new Rugers built on the mid size frame in all steel is that they are too heavy.

Buy a bigger caliber! That will take some weight out of it where it counts!

[DeanWinchester]

Hell you can just call him, and he will spend as much time on the phone as you need to understand what you want.

He is not in any way over priced or even high priced for what he does, and he does very nice work.

If you have a Hamilton Bowen Custom Sixgun, you have a very valuable piece of artillery.

Randy

I agree and would like to point out I never said his prices were not fair for the level of work he produces. Only, above MY ability to afford LOL!!!

[Jeff H]

Why not use the aluminum grip frame the standard NMBH in blue uses?

That's an option I hope to exercise on my .44 Special some day. I'd trade mine (grip frame) but the chances of one of the two of us getting one that was a bit too thin on one side have prevented me from doing so.

I'm tickled pink Ruger finally gave us a .44 Special on a medium frame and I always thought I'd like a steel grip frame, like my SBH and OA, but it throws the feel of the gun off for me.

I'd trade my steel grip frame rather quickly if I knew for certain that I wouldn't have to fit the cylinder frame to the grip frame instead of the other way 'round.

Don't forget the lock on the newer ones. If you don't get a newer aluminum grip frame, you'll need a hammer strut, spring and whatever they call that little piece the spring rests on.

[44man]

It is foolish to make a gun lighter. You remove only enough so the candy bar in your pocket weighs more. I shoot heavy calibers and loads so I want heavier guns. I don't want a "TWINK" gun, I want something to soak recoil. The belt around your big belly can carry a lot of weight. Most can't "fast draw" anyway.. If I ever buy a 1911 it will be all steel, no plastic junk. I hate the aluminum grip frames on Rugers.

[subsonic]

Take a grip frame off and weigh it. That will give you an idea of how much weight you can remove.

it seems like the best way to mill it without losing strength would be to make the frame thinner and the grips thicker.

That being said, I can find few reasons to do this to one of these guns. The weight makes them very nice to shoot.

If you want a lighter gun, it's probably a better idea to just buy one.

Lots of poly and aluminum (scandium) or even titanium stuff out there that is already light enough and much cheaper. Not to mention designed to be that way out of the box.

[doc1876]

if this is something you insist on doing, remember that Rugers serial number is on the side, and if you take away metal, there goes the number. There are a few smiths that do this professionally for the World Fast Draw Association, you might give them a look. One of the best was a man named Ron Phillips, however, I hear he passed.

[Big Rack]

Not debating about a lighter gun and I agree that H.B. would probably know, I would think a couple of ounces could be dropped by milling some from the grip frame, cutting a set of round slots in the recoil shield and a blackpowder cylinder chamfer. Think it might make a nice looking revolver. I have a SS Super Blackhawk (think that's what's on the side) with a 4 5/8 barrel in .44 mag. It was purchased new that way, I have thought of doing something similar but with birdshead grip frame and a stud in the frame for a lanyard ring. I kinda think the ligtweight boomer you carry is a lot better than the gun you leave at home.

[DeanWinchester]

It is foolish to make a gun lighter. You remove only enough so the candy bar in your pocket weighs more. I shoot heavy calibers and loads so I want heavier guns. I don't want a "TWINK" gun, I want something to soak recoil. The belt around your big belly can carry a lot of weight. Most can't "fast draw" anyway.. If I ever buy a 1911 it will be all steel, no plastic junk. I hate the aluminum grip frames on Rugers.


Truth. I notice my Blackhawk (which a good bit heavier than my Glock) doesn't wobble around in my shaky hands near as much as my plastic fantastic. Weight is a good thing many times.

[44man]

After shooting the big guns, I can't hold my Ruger mark II's steady any more, WAY TOO LIGHT.
I have tamed my 10" SBH at 100 to get 3/4" groups and also the 10" BFR in 45-70 but the light guns are better just thrown. The 10" SRH was a joy to shoot. I can shoot all day with big calibers but friends bring toys that after 5 rounds, I don't want them any more and recoil does not bother me much. You can't practice with the toys enough to get good. They beat you silly.
Rap the light DA fast a few times and sure, you think you can hit a bear or hog every shot. wanna bet?
Take some tires and put cardboard inside. Have a friend roll them down a hill and just see how many times your DA can hit cardboard.
Have a friend roll a tire at you at the bottom of a hill and show hits on the tire from your DA. Not much equals a tire coming at you except a bear charge. Then how many can quick draw when faced with danger? you think the short gun is faster but can't even find the thing anyway. Takes practice every single day.
Do you that carry a short gun for back up practice quick draw every day? Didn't think so. Most back up guns are useless. My idea is to have the gun in my hand.