Simple Rifle Case Annealing

[detox]

Today I annealed some IMI 308 brass that had been fired about 5 times. Watch video...this method is better than none and very simple.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlIjQ05aKzk

[petroid]

There are lots of different methods of doing this same thing and just as many opinions on what is the right way. Some will say you have to get the brass glowing red, some say that is too hot and the brass will be too soft. some say water quench, some don't. some say to anneal the shoulder some say only the neck. Some hold the case in their hands, some use specialized holders. what works for me? well i use a cordless drill and let the head of the case sit loosely in a socket. I rotate the case at low speed putting the neck in the blue flame cone. I don't heat it red hot, just till I see the brass change to a bluish purple at the shoulder. I then tip the drill down and the brass falls into a bucket of water. the water keeps the heat from spreading too far and stops the process. I have gotten easily 15 loadings from necksized rifle brass and only anneal about every fifth firing.

[smoked turkey]

I watched the video on annealing. I also do it this way with a couple of exceptions: I anneal with moderate light so I can see the case shoulder just start to turn bluish color and I dip the case in water to limit the heat to the neck/shoulder area. I place the case shoulder/neck in the flame and turn with my bare hands so I can be assured not to get the case body too hot. I personally do not heat to the point of red in the neck as he does. I use a quick count of about 8 on each case and that gives me some control and consistency from case to case. I personally think that making the case neck red in the process makes the case neck too hot and perhaps too soft. As I stated I only heat until the brass shoulder/neck changes to a bluish purple as petroid states.

[mikeym1a]

I use a similar method. Only, I made a heat sync out of aluminum wire, and keep the base of the case in that. About every 4th case, I have to dip the heat sync in cold water to cool it off. I do it in low light conditions to better see the color change. It has worked for me so far.

[MOcaster]

My local gunsmith has an annealing machine, so that is what I use. Well, what I will use when I need to start annealing.

[Chill Wills]

If you heat the brass until it shows a hint of pink when you are done - well...ooops!

Simply blue is where to stop. Starline takes a bit longer in the flame to reach blue - but not much! I like a small flame and slightly longer heating times. Because I am a 'belt and suspenders' guy I do drop the hot cases in water to arrest the temperature gradient from moving into the hard base. Likely not needed most times but on these short 25-20cases it is like mom's chicken soup when you are sick..... you know the rest.

I end up with an easy to see blue line just below where the bullet base will go and easy to reform cases.