Modify lyman or rcbs dies for use in Star machine?

[claxton]

I've got access to a lathe and have started with experimenting making my own sizing dies for my Star machine. The thought occurred to me that it might me easier to modify a Lyman or RCBS die than starting from scratch. Is this possible? I don't have any Lyman dies in front of me to compare.

Thanks

[Beagle333]

Well, it ain't gonna be easy. You will have to make a thin adapter, since Lymans are smaller. And you'll have to figure out something to do about the lube holes. Lyman has big holes and Star has a dual diameter hole so that you can plug some of them with shot.
It should be possible, if you got that kinda time.... but worth it?

[claxton]

Well, it ain't gonna be easy. You will have to make a thin adapter, since Lymans are smaller. And you'll have to figure out something to do about the lube holes. Lyman has big holes and Star has a dual diameter hole so that you can plug some of them with shot.
It should be possible, if you got that kinda time.... but worth it?

Thanks. Information like the diameter is what I needed to hear.

[Beagle333]

I can measure some when I get home..... I'm working off my feeble memory here. :mrgreen:

[blikseme300]

I looked at doing this same thing but found it was much less trouble to just make Star type dies from scratch. My early work is here: http://bliksemseplek.com/boolits.html

I can complete a new die in about an hour now that I have this figured out.

[joesig]

The adapter would be easy. Were you going to make one for the machine or one per die?

You will also need a shorter punch per caliber as the lube holes are not at the same height. If you inverted the die, the lube holes would align but then the taper would be at the bottom.

Possible but not easy.

[theperfessor]

Lyman dies are about .701"-.702" diameter and a little less than 1.6" long.

[Beagle333]

I wanna say the Stars are 3/4".... but I gotta scare up my caliper.... looking.... :coffeecom


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Yup. Mine are .750, not counting the flange.

[claxton]

I looked at doing this same thing but found it was much less trouble to just make Star type dies from scratch. My early work is here: http://bliksemseplek.com/boolits.html

I can complete a new die in about an hour now that I have this figured out.

Nice work! The biggest issue I'm having is getting a good smooth finish in the bore. Limited success with reamers and adjustable lap. Need to look into grinder I suppose. Do you recommend stainless, or what?

Thanks

[claxton]

The adapter would be easy. Were you going to make one for the machine or one per die?

You will also need a shorter punch per caliber as the lube holes are not at the same height. If you inverted the die, the lube holes would align but then the taper would be at the bottom.

Possible but not easy.

Good question about the adapter, I suppose just one for the machine would be the simplist solution.

I can make a shorter punch. Oddball threads though...

[joesig]

I can make a shorter punch. Oddball threads though...

I think I checked my lathe and with the metric gears I could get really close to the 27 TPI. Don't tell Goodsteel but I find this a quick fix:

http://www.amazon.com/Right-Hand-Thread-Die-TPI/dp/B00FDKDJGY/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1402451637&sr=1-12&keywords=1%2F2-27+die

[blikseme300]

Nice work! The biggest issue I'm having is getting a good smooth finish in the bore. Limited success with reamers and adjustable lap. Need to look into grinder I suppose. Do you recommend stainless, or what?

Thanks

Easy machining stainless does work but I have better/easier results with W1 steel from McMaster-Carr. I don't harden the steel post machining and I have yet to wear out a die. I have found these brass cylinder laps to be the quickest way to get smooth finishes:http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2665/=scsf2r

[claxton]

Easy machining stainless does work but I have better/easier results with W1 steel from McMaster-Carr. I don't harden the steel post machining and I have yet to wear out a die. I have found these brass cylinder laps to be the quickest way to get smooth finishes:http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2665/=scsf2r


Good call on the cylinder hones. That solves the issue of finishing the taper of the lead-in as well. I cut that using a spiral fluted taper pin reamer.

My first attempt was with 4140, what's the opinion on this? My in-laws are machinists and recommended it. I'm just a wannabe...


Thanks to all who've replied.

[theperfessor]

I use 1144 steel for the blank Lyman/RCBS dies I'm selling right now. Will also use it for the run of blank Saeco dies I plan to run next. 1144 is a "free machining" grade of steel with approximately .44% carbon, it is plenty hard as delivered but can be hardened if you really need to, and it machines beautifully and takes on a fine finish.

If you want some I'll be glad to send you enough to try out for just the cost of the postage, just PM me. I have it in 3/4" and 7/8" diameter round stock, I don't have dimensions for Star dies so I don't know what you need.

(I've been asked to run a batch of blank Star dies but that will be a while.)

4140 is also fine, more available than 1144 but doesn't machine as quickly and wears tools just a bit faster. W1 and O1 are also fine but are expensive tool steels that verge on being overkill. I think in terms of mass production and 1144 was designed for that.

[claxton]

Perfessor, thanks for the offer on the samples. Luckily I place McMaster Carr orders frequently and I add in some metal at times. I'm building a small collection. Ill try the 1144.