Score at gun club

[brassrat]

Yeah thats right! Too bad I only know what I have read here and now I need to learn a bunch more The boxes are empty cases, but complete. There are also a couple cans of .38 cases, already sorted and in MTM boxes. The molds are WC's but I see no markings for brands. What I get?


http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/th_IMG_0001_zpscd52c0ab.jpg (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/g5uis23ft5h/media/IMG_0001_zpscd52c0ab.jpg.html)

[45-70bpcr]

I have one of those bullseye pistol timers. They work well. Old fashioned if you carry a smart phone since there are timer apps for them but I like the old mechanical timer

[Joe504]

Can you get us some better pics of the molds? Can you measure the cavities with a micrometer?

[Doc_Stihl]

Looks like you might have a Hensley and Gibbs 6 cavity mold there. That's $$$$

[brassrat]

I am guessing these are 146?- 148 gr. WC's. The H+G mold (if true) was all froze up and may be a little satin-renewed finish (pitted) lol.

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/th_IMG_0002_zps73c75694.jpg (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/g5uis23ft5h/media/IMG_0002_zps73c75694.jpg.html)

[avogunner]

Stating the obvious....the 4 banger is a Lyman. I have a 358432 148gr WC 4C that outwardly, look's exactly like the same, nutcracker handles and all. Of course, mine isn't that "ahem" beat up but I would bet it can be cleaned up nicely.

[brassrat]

Well the 4 banger isn't obviously a Lyman to me. Now I know and the other is marked H+G-#527 which is 148 gr WC with little bump on nose and common. Thanks for replies.

[Walter Laich]

wonder why someone would paint the Lyman green?

[brassrat]

The Lyman also is stamped with the name Ideal. Sorry for not looking closer sooner.

[HeavyMetal]

is that paint? or some type of home brewd mold release?

Go to Harbor Freight and get some evapo rust and soak those molds good clean and dry put a pencil eraser in each mold as a cleaner, from the looks of it a whole box of number 2's is called for here, this will help get the cavities as clean as possible.

[brassrat]

The green color is old and looks, to me, to be original. I guess it is a paint and is present and uniform on all surfaces, except where the rust is.

[brassrat]

I forgot to gloat about the brand new, 40? yr old, Outers shotgun cleaning kit.

[brassrat]

Well it looks like my free H+G mold is pitted. Will this work with or without a P.C? I bought a kit, a few months back, still in box.


http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/th_IMG_0002_zps0a8e8586.jpg (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/g5uis23ft5h/media/IMG_0002_zps0a8e8586.jpg.html)






http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/th_IMG_0003_zpsc48c6d91.jpg (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/g5uis23ft5h/media/IMG_0003_zpsc48c6d91.jpg.html)

[richhodg66]

Clean it up as best you can and try to cast with it. Sometimes they'll surprise you.

[brassrat]

This is the clean version!! I got Evaporust and Kroil. At least I didn't use powertools or otherwise, ruin the ruined mold.

[imashooter2]

There is still plenty of active rust on that mold. Try electrolytic rust removal and kill it all. Then cast some and see if you have a mold or a paperweight.

http://schoepp.hylands.net/electrolyticrust.html

A quick and easy set up I have used several times:

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/ERR-out.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/ERR-in.jpg

Results:

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/rustydies-600.jpghttp://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/cleandies-600.jpg

[brassrat]

Thanks for the link, Ima, I considered this but it looks like the cavities are pitted.

[imashooter2]

Thanks for the link, Ima, I considered this but it looks like the cavities are pitted.

Sometimes pitted cavities will cast and shoot pretty well. You have nothing to lose by trying it.

[runfiverun]

you can 'repair' those pitted cavity's.
it takes some patience and stuff, but it can be done.
I think the mold is worth saving myself.

[brassrat]

I am going to try it, when I am finished setting things up for my 1st cast. I am wondering if a hi-temp paint would be spoiling the mold, or acceptable.

[imashooter2]

IMO, paint would make a bad situation worse.

[skeettx]

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/IMG_0003_zpsc48c6d91.jpghttp://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/IMG_0002_zps73c75694.jpg

[abqcaster]

How about spraying it with a thick(er) coat of mold release, like FA's drop out? It fills in things pretty aggressively when I use it.

[W.R.Buchanan]

In the pic above where it shows the 6 cav mould "cleaned up" I don't think that mould is all that bad.

What I would suggest is to use the Electrochemical rust removal, or maybe some "Naval Jelly" to get the remainder of the rust out of the holes.

Use a Scotchbrite wheel to buff the exterior of the mould. Flat Lap the top surface of the mould, using 400 grit Wet or dry sandpaper stuck onto a piece of glass or some other known flat surface. if you spray WD 40 on the back side it will stick to a smooth surface like it was glued. Also WD on the sandpaper side and use only a figure 8 motion, as that is the motion that generates a flat surface. Repeat this process with the bottom side of the sprue plate.

Then cast some slugs with the mould. Remove the slugs and number them to the cavities. Drill a small hole in the center of each slug so that you can start a dry wall screw, chuck up in cordless drill with a small amount of lapping compound on the slug and rotate it slowly in each cavity. This will 'fair in" any high spots left and lap the surface smooth. It may increase the size of the mould a few tenths but that is of no consequence and may in fact work for you if the mould was dropping small.

As far as the low spots go, if they aren't huge they will have little effect, and any high spots on the boolits will be ironed out when you size them and add Lube.

Don't give up on it yet. IMHO this mould can be saved and when it is saved it will be worth having for sure.

Randy

[brassrat]

I guess I am learning some stuff and will put it to use, I like that lapping in the mold tip. I have a big ole spray can of Kroil Parteze for mold release, also.

[mold maker]

I have yet to hear a target, can, or game complain about being shot, with a less than pristine boolit. All the above is good advice, but don't obsess about perfection.
As long as the boolits drop from the mold without a beating, sizing will perfect the only surfaces necessary for accuracy, if the base is flat.

[abqcaster]

I have yet to hear a target, can, or game complain about being shot, with a less than pristine boolit. All the above is good advice, but don't obsess about perfection.
As long as the boolits drop from the mold without a beating, sizing will perfect the only surfaces necessary for accuracy, if the base is flat.
+1 to that!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Any Progress on this project?

Randy

[BrassMagnet]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by mold maker http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=2831207#post2831207)
I have yet to hear a target, can, or game complain about being shot, with a less than pristine boolit. All the above is good advice, but don't obsess about perfection.
As long as the boolits drop from the mold without a beating, sizing will perfect the only surfaces necessary for accuracy, if the base is flat.




+1 to that!

+100 to that!

Do not use the mould release. I hate cleaning that gunk off of a mould.

I would not start out with any abrasive cleaners yet!
Do clean the mould with brake cleaner and then lube the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the mould with some sprue plate lube and then cast a few. If you put sprue plate lube on a cold mould it will be way too much and it will get inside the cavities and cause wrinkles. Don't hold the wrinkles against the mould.
See what the boolits look like and decide what to do next.

[gpidaho]

As an alternative to the dry wall screw trick I pour lapping slugs by moving sprue plate back out of the way and cast a boolit slug through a wing nut or just common nut set atop mould cavity then turn by hand or wrench when lapping. Good luck I would love to own one of those old moulds. GP

[leadman]

A pencil eraser will remove some of the rust. If you can find a small brass rod make a pick out of it to clean the corners. A steel pick can be used if you are very careful. The lapping can be helpful. If the pits cause you problems clean them out with the pick and use a spray moly or graphite on the cavities, then lap just enough to remove the spray from the good part of the cavities leaving it in the pits to fill them.

[HeavyMetal]

A pencil eraser and an old typewriter eraser if you can find one! It will have a small "broom" on one end they have just a touch of abrasive material in them and work great for this type mold clean up.

However as I get older I find I'm more interested in things that don't require as much elbow grease to get it done, so I would go right to the elctro clean project!

Then I would cast with it before I did any thing else! Sometimes ya don't fix what ain't broke! If the casting have issues falling out or are under sized you can then lap to size.

I doubt either of these molds will cast under sized and, if large enough, any casting marks will come off in the sizing die!

I also wouldn't worry about pitting on either mold as long as it isn't in the cavities or interfers with it opening or closing.

I am also not a fan of mold release, I have tried a few, and learned that mold prep is a better long term plan.

[tward]

I've got some molds worse than that and they cast fine! I say give it a try! Tim

[brassrat]

Well I joined the Brotherhood of the Sacred Stream, today, instead of just talking. [smilie=w: All my pewter got smashed down and jammed into my 10 lb Lyman cooker, fresh out of box. I poured it all into some little SS shot glass things. Then I melted my 4 unknown ingots that came with my moulds and other stuff. The H+G mould locked open as soon as I heated and poured my 1st 6 boolets which were also a complete failure. I switched to the Ideal and all went well except I do not know the hardness of all my boolets and they may be pure lead. I kept melting and poured this unknown mix into ingots. They are shiny like the boolets and seem a little harder than the ingots I then poured from some pure lead. The pure ingots came out with several colors while the unknowns were just shiny. Almost all the boolets looked ok to me and only a few got melted. I had a blast
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/th_IMG_0205-Copy_zps90ab651e.jpg (http://s1123.photobucket.com/user/g5uis23ft5h/media/IMG_0205-Copy_zps90ab651e.jpg.html)