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View Full Version : Heading to Prince of Wales Island Alaska for July - Advice?



psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 03:38 PM
Well, I have been working on building a house for the last couple of years and hope to have it in livable condition by Christmas this year. Have decided to take a break though and Get out of Texas for a few weeks and head back to Alaska. To a part I have never been before, the south east portion.
My wife, myself and my two sons (7 & 9) will be loading up in my dodge one ton with a cabover camper and heading north the first week of July. Thinking about leaving east Texas and heading west through New Mexico, Arizona then up through Utah. There is a place there where you can dig these things called trilobites I think and my boys are all about digging. Not sure of the route from there. Have some friends in Seattle we could go visit or could just head up to B.C. and out to Prince Rupert and catch the ferry to Ketchikan from there. Everything I read about Ketchikan sounds lovely but leads me to believe it is overrun with folks off the cruise ships more days than not.
Plan to spend a couple of days there and catch the interisland ferry to Hollis Alaska on Prince of Wales Island. Hope to spend 3 weeks bumming around the island which as near as I can tell is about 150 miles long and about 50 miles wide. Will have a small enclosed trailer behind us that will have an 18' SIB inflatable with 8' beam and 3000# capacity and 40hp motor with a big elect trolling motor, oars/oarlocks and 4 paddles. Will have gps/fishfinder and handheld gps for back up. Each adult will have a portable waterproof VHF radio on them. Truck will have cb. For the last year I have read a great deal about SE Alaska and ultimately decided to commit most of our trip to POW rather than ferry hopping every couple of days.
We hope to be able to fish a good bit, crab a little and maybe dig clams if any are to be found. Not sure if there will be any berries then but I do like to pick em, and love to eat em. The enclosed trailer will have a small chest freezer, genny, bicycles and maybe the 4wheeler if it will fit (I am always fond have having a plan b when possible). Am putting together what I think will be a good ditch bag/emergency overnight bag in the event he have bad weather while out boating and I never plan for us to be too far from shore.
Last time we lived in Alaska for less than a year and I just bought a 12 ga in Anchorage and then divested of it before coming back through Canada. Guess I will likely to the same this time around. I have no desire to shoot a bear while hiking/clam digging etc...and I know some folks would say "why not just but some bells on your shoes...carry some bear spray...etc" Any we probably will. But there is just something comforting about having 5 rounds of 00 buckshot in your hands for 4 legged and 2 legged varmints that might do you or yours harm.
Anyway, I am looking for any advice about POW that folks might have to share, with regards to boondocking, RV parks, fishing on either the west or east side of the island with the rig I described, taking the boat out and overnight tent camping. Stuff to do and see in the communities as far as touristy stuff, especially for the boys. And are there clams to dig on POW? I have read several confusing and contradictory comments.
Oh, and today while waiting on lunch I started doodling on a napkin....running mental lists of what we needed to take :)

PsychicRhino in Texas

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starmac
06-08-2014, 03:46 PM
It would likly be cheaper to grab that 12 gauge in Texas and sell it when you leave Alaska. It is fifty bucks to carry it through Canada, but absolutely no problem doing so. I have never been to South East, but it is high on the bucket list.

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 03:56 PM
@ starmac - I don't doubt you and maybe I will try. The shotgun I bought at Fred Meyers in Anchorage years ago was pretty cheap compared to Texas prices for some reason plus did not have to pay 9% sales tax! Maybe I will try taking one through Canada this year....every time I have tried reading about the regulations I get a little turned off by the idea though. We'll see on that one. As far as the bucket lists....seeing the northern lights was on mine before I made it to Fairbanks. Don't know if they get any as far south as POW but wouldn't mind to see them again. [smilie=w:

AlaskanGuy
06-08-2014, 04:08 PM
I would advise, that if your going up to the POW road system.. be sure to visit the El Cap Caves on the northern part of the island..... Also, there is a POW chamber visitors guide that has places where you can grab fuel, and places where you cannot... Good info to know as there are about 500 miles of abandoned logging roads on POW.... The western side of the island is prone to wind.... Bring a tarp or 3... and maybe a Good Come-along..... Just in case... If you get stuck on one of them side roads, it is a Real Long Walk.... ALso, AT&T seems to work on most of the island near the larger communities like Craig, and Thorn Bay... Prolly a good Idea to have one of them No Contract At&T type phones....

Have a Blast...

AG

starmac
06-08-2014, 04:13 PM
Like I said Canada is no problem for any long gun that is not restricred, in many ways there laws are much simpler than ours on guns. At least they do not have 50 different sets of laws.
Fred meyers is hard to beat on price, but check on it, as you may not even be able to buy one with a Texas dl.
Just a suggestion, I don't know much about the ferry system or costs, but I would check into going through Hyder Ak either coming or going, instead of prince rupert. Either way it is great scenery, but Hyder would not be as many tourists, and not nearly as big, but would be a chance to see some more country with not much difference in miles driven.

AlaskanGuy
06-08-2014, 04:16 PM
Also, there will be Tons of Clams.... Not so much Razor Clams, but Butter clams, and Cockles, and such.. Bring a Large Tub of Butter.. for the Dungies and the clams.. .... Those clams will be all over in shallow gravel beds on Near Minus tides, or better... Take a Hand held tool like you would use in the garden for Pulling weeds and such.. they have 3 tines on them and are curved at a 45 degree angle and are great for clawing the clams out of the rockey gravel.. just make sure you get a sturdy version... Also dont forget your rain gear.... you will need it.. get the good stuff, not the cheap brands.. you will be drier, and be happier.. also, if you grab some tarps, Large ones, you can put up tarps tied to trees of overhead shelters near your camping areas.... it will give the boys places to hang around and play.... without getting soaked....

AG

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 04:41 PM
Like I said Canada is no problem for any long gun that is not restricred, in many ways there laws are much simpler than ours on guns. At least they do not have 50 different sets of laws.
Fred meyers is hard to beat on price, but check on it, as you may not even be able to buy one with a Texas dl.
Just a suggestion, I don't know much about the ferry system or costs, but I would check into going through Hyder Ak either coming or going, instead of prince rupert. Either way it is great scenery, but Hyder would not be as many tourists, and not nearly as big, but would be a chance to see some more country with not much difference in miles driven.

Never even heard of Hyder Ak, will look into it. Thanks

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 04:44 PM
@ Alaskaguy....I will see your one come a long and raise you a HighLift Jack :) Thanks for the info on the chamber guide. Nothing would make the wife make a frowny face faster than getting stuck 3500 miles from home with no buddy with winch on you :) Good info on the AT&T as well, thanks.

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 04:56 PM
Never even heard of Hyder Ak, will look into it. Thanks

Well after a bit of looking and some confusing info where I saw references to ferry from Hyder then not being able to find it on the Alaska Marine Hwy website I located the following article from 2013.


"The ferry to Ketchikan, the nearest Alaskan city, stopped running more than a decade ago."
http://www.cntraveler.com/daily-traveler/2013/09/hyder-alaska-maphead-ken-Jennings

And now I know all about Hyder ! :)

quilbilly
06-08-2014, 05:06 PM
Bring some pink spoons to put on the end of your line for pink salmon. You should be there about the peak of the run. One is just right for a BBQ fresh out of the water no m after what many people say about pinks being a lesser eating salmon. Bears like pinks too so be advised.

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 05:12 PM
Bring some pink spoons to put on the end of your line for pink salmon. You should be there about the peak of the run. One is just right for a BBQ fresh out of the water no m after what many people say about pinks being a lesser eating salmon. Bears like pinks too so be advised.

I never have BBQ'd salmon. Only way I ever cooked silver salmon was to but em in a big black skillet and cover with salsa then slow cook em in the oven for an hour covered with foil. Sounds like you are saying I need to take a lil grill with me...hmmmmm. My 9 y/o LOVES casting for bass so I think casting spoons for salmon will be right up his ally.

Been showing him some YouTube clips to get his pump primed....he is ready :)

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 05:13 PM
Even year runs on the pinks? Is that right or am I getting em mixed up?

quilbilly
06-08-2014, 07:20 PM
Up there, they come every year. You will also have some nice Dolly Varden char in most of the streams as well as a few cutthroat trout. Chinook should start showing up in mid-August and coho in September. You shouldn't run into any steelhead this time of year but the steelheading is excellent on POW in late fall and again in late winter. Dolly Varden are much like pinks in that they don't freeze well so must be eaten fresh.

AlaskanGuy
06-08-2014, 08:04 PM
If you PM me your email, I can email you the visitor guide. Also, you wont find kings in POW in fresh water, but by the end of July, the area will be full of Silvers... Now there is a fish worthy of some great eating.... And you can arrange through a cannery in Craig, to have it canned for your return trip home.... It would be Nuthin to catch about 10 silvers and have 80 nice cans of good salmon.... You could prolly also have the folks in Craig drop ship them home if space is a problem, or you could take the cans over to the postal carrier in Craig and ship them home in large flat rate boxes....

Here is the link to the island visitor guide.....

https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0B5I4ErMw1kdDMHdhX1F6eW5OLU0

AG

ph4570
06-08-2014, 08:13 PM
Never having been there I do not have any advice. It sure sounds like fun -- have a good one!

MaryB
06-08-2014, 11:19 PM
Ham radio would be a good backup communications option. Some 2 meter repeaters on the island plus HF bands would be open to somewhere as long as we aren't having major aurora.

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 11:37 PM
Ham radio would be a good backup communications option. Some 2 meter repeaters on the island plus HF bands would be open to somewhere as long as we aren't having major aurora.

An excellent idea but I assume I would need a ham operators license to use those bands?

psychicrhino
06-08-2014, 11:39 PM
@ alaskanguy. Just finished skimming then reading the guide. Dont know how I have not come across it before. Excellent resource.

AlaskanGuy
06-09-2014, 12:26 AM
Glad I could help....

MaryB
06-09-2014, 01:44 AM
Yes but the test has gotten a lot easier, no morse code needed. Most ham clubs have cram session classes with testing after. www.arrl.org has a list of searchable ham clubs and license classes.


An excellent idea but I assume I would need a ham operators license to use those bands?

AkMike
06-09-2014, 01:51 AM
If you catch the ferry in Seattle you can get to SE AK w/o going thru any hassles with Canadian customs for the shottygun. Make sure that you can still get reservations now.. They can be booked up solid during the tourist season.
Some of the abandoned logging roads have been blocked off to prevent the public from enjoying public land by orders of the Feds..

historicfirearms
06-09-2014, 07:17 AM
A few tips I can think of from when I worked for the forest service there. Bring some good insect repellant. The bugs can be very bad. Also, invest in some good rain gear and Extra Tuff boots. It will rain a lot. Keep an eye out for bears, especially along the streams. Make lots of noise to let them know you are there as you don't want to surprise one of them. Give them lots of space if you do see one.

idahoron
06-12-2014, 08:46 PM
I made the trip. I flew to Ketchikan and took the ferry to Hollis. We had rough sea's with 30 foot waves. That is a 4 hour ride and let me tell you 30 foot waves on the stickeen makes you feel a little green inside. We had great luck fishing for Halibut. I walked all over the town of Craig and we drove to a couple towns I don't remember the names. We saw totem poles and I enjoyed every minute of my time there. One evening I walked into town from the lodge and I saw some local boys snagging some small fish. I think they said they were some kind of salmon. Anyway I watched for a while and then walked down the beach and spooked the fish toward the boys. I yelled here they come! All of a sudden I was 12 years old and it was so much fun chasing those fish for them to snag. I will go back home some day as my Uncle said. It was the best week with my Uncle I ever had.