Mauser Bolt Bending?

[davidheart]

Hey guys, I have a VZ24 I'm wanting to 'sporterize' and I need to have the bolt bent to clear a scope and action tapped for mounts. I don't trust myself to do it and I wasn't sure if there were any suggestions out there? Thank you.

[UBER7MM]

Twenty dollars sound's really reasonable.

[TNsailorman]

I haven/t seen a smith in over 25 years that would bend the bolt correctly for $20.00. I have a 24/47 right now I would like to get altered for a scope but no gunsmith in this area. To send it to a gunsmith and back would run $25.00 each way in shipping. Add to that most smiths ask $65.00 to over $100.00 to either bend the old bolt or cut and weld a new one. I am all ears on this one though.

[Hamish]

Contact member Goodsteel,,,,,

[pietro]

I have a 24/47 right now I would like to get altered for a scope but no gunsmith in this area.

To send it to a gunsmith and back would run $25.00 each way in shipping.




FWIW, since there's no need to use an FFL ( The bolt's only a part and not a firearm) the bolt can me mailed anywhere in the Lower 48, if not the entire US, for $5.80 by using a small USPS Flat Rate Box.

USPS Flat Rate Boxes, in several different sizes, are available (free) at any USPO, even the small ones.

https://www.usps.com/ship/priority-mail-flat.htm

At some PO's, though, since lobby space may be scarce, the boxes may be stored in a rear area - only available by asking the PO Clerk

Anyone that either bends a bolt handle, or welds a new handle on, should make sure to use a screw-in heat sink in the rear of the bolt after stripping it, so as not to soften the cocking cam surface there, which will lead to hard cocking (if it loses it's hardening).


.

[Gtek]

Heat sink and heat stop paste. You may find just rolling handle over/down may not give desired results if wanting scope down close. Rear bell of any size is always there unless see-thru mount level is used.

[UBER7MM]

Here is Brownell's instructions URL for bolt bending when using their jig:
.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.brownells.com%2F.aspx%2Flid%3 D12842%2Fguntechdetail%2FBending_Mauser_Bolt_Handl es&ei=fYCOU__9Keym8QHM9YGwBw&usg=AFQjCNHwWin9OTOdowVBJW0--rZ19yobQw&bvm=bv.68235269,d.b2U

[aspangler]

You don't want to bend the bolt, you want to forge it down and back. Look at the pics in my thread " Here I go again" in special projects. I would put a link to it but don't know how. My smith can do this for about twenty to twentyfive dollars plus shipping. He is not working o0n anything right now trying to get caught up on "honey do s".

[John 242]

Never forged a bolt handle, but I have cut and welded. Not especially difficult, except for battling porosity. The bolt bellow is from a Yugo 24/47 project.
The bolt handle I made myself.
Some guys like the ground away section at the top of the bolt (I do) while others don't.

106983
106984


If you go the cut and weld route, the receiver and stock will need to be relieved for the bolt handle.
106985

[Mk42gunner]

I've done it both ways and the forged handle always came up just a bit too short for comfort. This is much more apparent with the bigger eyepieces of today's scopes than it was with say a steel tubed Weaver K-4.

I much prefer cutting and welding on a new handle.

Robert

[mikeym1a]

I have a 1909 Argentine Mauser with the bolt handle bent. All the ones I've seen are bent in a similar fashion. I have a receiver sight on the rear bridge, and I have to be careful or I skin a knuckle in the sight. Yes, a bent handle is too short. Better to cut it off, and have a new one welded on. They are available in lots of places, Numrich, for one. mikey

[roverboy]

I agree with welding on a new handle. They do come up short sometimes by bending. They look way better too.

[Screwbolts]

I have been involved in 8 different bolt forging operations. I own the torches and a neighbor used to have the jig and heat sink. With practice and a little knowledge of working metal with heat and hammers you can come up with some very nice forged bolts. I ended up running the torch and hammers, Neal ended up standing there with hands in pockets, he just couldn't get the hammering thing figured out.

Length of bolts after forging has never been a problem or issue to us, but as with all things, personal preference is important.

With proper forging/ hammering, very little file or grinding is needed to shape. Unfortunately I know longer have access to a jig

Ken

[bob208]

I have never bent a bolt but I have the jig to cut and weld on a bolt handle. I have done a lot of mausers and 03s in the past. I get the handles from brownells they are about $9.00. at first I was stick welding them now I tig weld them.

I think a stripped bolt mite fit in the small flat rate box.

[aspangler]

If a bolt is forged right,not just bent, it will or can be(depends on preference) a little longer than a welded on bolt. Hence "forged" not "bent".

[gnoahhh]

I have done them a bunch of different ways over the last 40 years. For my money, I have decided the only way to go is by welding on a new handle and be done with it. I'm partial to Oberndorf-style straight handles (which I turn myself on a lathe) on which the knob ends up just above the stock line. If you get the angle right, there is no need to grind a clearance hollow on the stem of the bolt handle for scope clearance. Sorry, but grinding on the handle stem looks like an after thought to me- the result of incomplete planning. Just my opinion though.

[roverboy]

If a bolt is forged right,not just bent, it will or can be(depends on preference) a little longer than a welded on bolt. Hence "forged" not "bent".

Yeah, I agree with that. The first time I saw a bolt handle forged. The guy did a very deep bend and it came out looking good and didn't seem at all short. But, I have seen ones that didn't get a lot of bend and look a little funny.

[koger]

I have done roughly 200 mauser/jap bolts in my lifetime. I use bending blocks, a heat sink and paste. I forge the bolt handle over, then heat at a marked area, file mark, and curve the handle up with a wrench I made. I then grind/ polish the top of the bolt in a swept curve until it glows like chrome. I leave the bottom of the bolt handle rounded, then grind the top of the bolt handle flat, file and starting with sandpaper, then180,240,400 and 555 Brownells metal polish. I make a nice looking bolt, often jewel the bolt body. I don't run a full time shop anymore, but do it for myself and to help others for around $40, not counting shipping.

[muskeg13]

Wanting to do as much work as possible myself, and lacking welding equipment/skills, I've successfully bent 2 (of 2) in my garage using plenty of time, a bench vice, propane torch, heat gel (and wet cotton wrap). I accepted to undertake the procedure by gambling the cost of a replacement bolt if I were to have ruined the work, but everything turned out fine. It wasn't magic, but you need to know the angles you want before lighting the torch.

As the Canadian philosopher Red Green says, "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."

[davidheart]

I'm going to go the cut and weld route because, while I have no idea how to weld I have friends who do.

I bought a bolt handle for $10 which is pre-bent/angled and long enough to come close to the trigger guard when installed. Thank you all very much for your input and help!