Odd minne mold

[shooter575]

I picked up the other day a new to me mold in a group buy.It is basicaly
looks to be a lot like a Lyman 575-213 OS [but not quite] Anyway the intrest
is in the captive base pin design.Very interesting.I cast up a small run and
it works real nice.After droping the minne a flick of the wrist and the pin
reseats itself.
I have converted Lyman blocks into RCBS type captive base pins before
so this type of setup was neet.
Anyway any of you guys know anything about the maker?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/shooter575/MVC-002F-2.jpg

[floodgate]

575:

I'll check with a couple of 'cats on the Antique Reloading Tool Collectors board who are more knowledgeable than I am on "odd ball" makers. That's a REAL nice setup. I can't quite make out the upper number on the r/h block. It looks like the pivot screw hole in the little plate that carries the base former is slightly elongated, to allow the peg to center itself.

floodgate

[MtGun44]

Could you show a pic of the bottom of the mold in closed and then
1/3 open and then full open, on handles so I could see how this
works? Looks amazingly simple but I can't see how it would close
from the one pic.

Thanks.

Bill

[shooter575]

Went out and took a couple other shots this morning.Hopes this helps.
1st pic shows pin in max open position.Looks close but they drop clean

2nd pic L&W is on the left,a 585-313 on right.Note biger blocks and location
of captive base pin hole.Along with sloted pin "thingy" [CRS]

3rd is L&W minne [left] and Ideal 585-213

I am wondering if I can use existing Lyman base pin retining hole with
a homemade [thingy]and new base pin to convert my pile of Lyman/Ideal
molds I have?Geometry may be too far off?Anyway there is enough room
to drill& tap a new one




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/shooter575/MVC-003F-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/shooter575/MVC-004F-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/shooter575/MVC-005F-1.jpg

[Red River Rick]

It's funny how the simplist of ideas work so well. Rather than using the conventional corepin w/handle arrangement, this method would be invalueable.

Now I'm thinking. I'm sure that this setup would also work for making HP boolits. Thanks Shooter575 for sharing this info with us.

RRR

[MtGun44]

OK, great pix. It looked like the tail end of the lever had a hole in it and
a screw in the other block that went thru it. Looked impossible to close that way.

Now that I see the lever just floats and lifts the boolit out of the mold,
and it isn't attached to the other block at all - this is very simple and very smart.

Seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to convert a Lyman HB to this method,
wonder about a HP mold . . . . . . . .

Very interesting. :drinks:

Thanks.

Bill

[dromia]

What an elegant approach.

[shooter575]

Got this reply on another forum
"An engineering firm by the name of Leake and Warwick,based in Leicester UK,made bullet moulds as a sideline in the late '60s/early'70s.They were marketed as " L&W" moulds. "

This fellow is from the UK
Im still digging for info