Looking at a couple press kits input welcome

[TaylorS]

First one is the lee precession 50th anaversary reloading kit and the second is the lee precession breach lock challenger kit besides a tumbler for the brass what other equipment missing I'm probably gonna buy a digital scale and I already know I need another caliper

[country gent]

Eventually a case trimmer of some type. A deburring tool if not incuded. Funnel if not included. Eventually a powder measure of some sort. Alot of the extras can be purchased along the way as you decide what you want and how you want to do it. I believe you stated inan earlier post you reading read the lymann manual 49th edition so that should give you an good idea there.

[Anonym]

I think the 50th Anniversary kit was what I started with. It's a great kit to get started on!

The powder thrower "disk" set-up is surprisingly accurate. The scale is also accurate, but way too "touchy" for me. Took forever to settle in. Personally, I'd replace it with another quality beam scale as you will need to invest a decent amount of cash for a decent digital scale worth using. That's just my opinion, and I am somewhat "old school" though.

I'd also recommend getting a powder trickler, and if you have the cash, look at another priming system than the "on the press" set-up. A hand primer or a separate bench primer will give you better "feel" seating the primers without the risk of doing so around powder.

What I find using the most where I appreciate a good quality product is in the press, scale, and priming system. The rest is non-critical and can produce quality ammo if you don't mind paying attention to detail.

[TaylorS]

I'll be sure to get the trickler and I'll look into a hand primer think I'm gonna build a tumbler just cause

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I consider a tumbler for brass a luxury unless your brass has fallen in the mud. A wipe with a soft cloth is fine. I managed for 20 or more years without one. I still do not 'clean' brass very often, though I seldom shoot autoloading rifles. The 'breech lock' type of press makes for much more pleasant reloading, threading dies in and out is not a plus. I have three and four hole Lee turret presses and consider the the easy die change the greatest plus. I've used the Lee case trimmer along with a Forster and an L E Wilson. I like the Wilson best, followed by the LEE. I use a Lee and RCBS hand primers. I prefer the RCBS. I have a K&M but it requires handling every primer so it is not often used. My scale is an RCBS 505 balance, I have an inexpensive Hornady electric that is handy for checking case weights but not for powder measuring. I find most inexpensive electronic measuring device seem to drift in use. I have a Midway electric powder trickler that I find quite convenient. I use the Lee Perfect powder measure most of the time. I have an RCBS measure but I seldom use it as the Lee is more Quickly adjusted and easier to empty. I do uniform primer pockets and deburr flashholes, but that is unnecessary starting out.

[Silverboolit]

You should look at the LEE classic turret press. If you are new to reloading, it can be set up as a single stage. When I was looking for a new press, I checked out the progressives and decided that I don't need to make '600 per hour'. I enjoy my time reloading and the turret is faster than the single stages with a lot more benefits.

[bedbugbilly]

+ 1 to what Silverboolit says . . . when I was getting set up for reloading (and I'm an old fart) - I looked at a variety of presses - single stage, turret, progressive, etc. Someone suggested the Lee Classic 4 hole Turret and that's what I went with. I've never regretted it and it's a joy to use. I;m not a "speed re-loader" but I can easily too 100 - 200 rounds in an evening at a relaxed pace while having a cup of tea and listening to either the radio or TV. I consider it a very "therapeutic Press"! LOL

I use an old single stage RCBS with a universal de-primer to de-prime and size my cast boolits. On the press, I'm using Lee's 4 die sets - couldn't be more pleased. I only load pistol ammo so can't speak to rifle cartridges but i'm sure it would do a great job on those as well.

My suggestion would be to figure out what cartridges you are going/might load and then go from there. "Packgew" are fine but sometimes you'll find that they either include things you don't need or leave out things you do. Good luck to you!

[trixter]

You should look at the LEE classic turret press. If you are new to reloading, it can be set up as a single stage. When I was looking for a new press, I checked out the progressives and decided that I don't need to make '600 per hour'. I enjoy my time reloading and the turret is faster than the single stages with a lot more benefits.

I concur completely. It is a strong press and it will turn out very accurate ammunition. I use it for 45ACP, .223/556,30-06 and 300 savage. I have just started casting for 223/556 and will be using it for that too. change-overs are quick and quite inexpensive. I also prime on the press; flawlessly.

[str8wal]

probably gonna buy a digital scale

A good magnetic beam scale like the RCBS 505 I would suggest over a digital. I also use Lee turret presses, a 3 hole and a 4 hole, as well as a challenger single stage. Tried a hand primer and dumped it, I prefer to prime on the press. With straightwalls I use a turret press like a single stage but with one caveat. After decapping and priming I rotate to the expander die and then back to the FL die while the case is still on the ram. This saves the time and energy of moving the case back to the tray and taking it out again for expanding. Only 2 trips from the tray to the press on the 3 stage process. I see no reason to pay more for a press than what a Lee costs.

[TaylorS]

Lot of my brass has been rattling around the truck bed for a few years or gets picked out of the dirt when I spot one I previously missed most of it looks old but is prolly pretty clean just seems like a good idea to keep it all contaminant free I did look at the lee turret press and that was what I was originally going to go with when I can get out to shoot I like having 400 rounds or so for the AR I'll start looking at the turret presses again and see what I can find in that line hope to have sometime at the PC withy book to figure things out

[Highway41]

Taylor I have a RCBS powder trickler I'll donate to you. It's brand new. I used it a grand total of once and just don't have a use for it anymore. Let me know when you're passing through my neck of the woods and I'll get it to you.

[MT Chambers]

RCBS Rockchucker reloading kit, a solid start, all steel with no plastic or pot metal.

[David2011]

RCBS Rockchucker reloading kit, a solid start, all steel with no plastic or pot metal.

. . . and a decent scale and powder measure.

David

[zuke]

RCBS Rockchucker reloading kit, a solid start, all steel with no plastic or pot metal.

And made in China.

[kopperl]

Just curious and don't want to hijack the thread-But- why is a beam scale better than a digital?
Thanks

[zuke]

You should look at the LEE classic turret press. If you are new to reloading, it can be set up as a single stage. When I was looking for a new press, I checked out the progressives and decided that I don't need to make '600 per hour'. I enjoy my time reloading and the turret is faster than the single stages with a lot more benefits.

If I were to start again it would be with a LEE Classic Turret. Use it like a single stage or a turret, you have the option's to do so.

[Petrol & Powder]

A lot depends on your budget, what type of reloading you plan to do and what type of setup you'll likely grow into.
I don't think one can go wrong with a good single stage, O-frame press from one of the major companies. The Lee Turret press gives you a little more press for not much more money. I think you can still buy a stripped down Dillon 550 frame and use that as a press and then convert it to a progressive later.

I think every reloader should have one good single stage press. Even if you plan to move on to a progressive press later, the single stage press is a tool that will be used for a lifetime. The debate on which press is best could fill (and has filled) many web pages. The accoutrements needed to reload also need to be considered and some kits are a better deals than others.
My advice is to decide exactly what cartridges you plan to reload and then make a list of the minimum tools needed to reload those cartridges. Then, with your list in hand, compare the available kits and figure out if there are any needed items missing and how much it costs to purchase those individual items. You can then make an informed decision concerning what is the best value for your particular needs.

And one last piece of advice. A good reloading manual is a key item.

[jmort]

I like the Breech Lock system. Have two Breech Lock Hand Presses and a Breech Lock Challenger. Thought about getting the Classic Cast Breech Lock but went with the Challenger. Got the In line Fabrication mount and roller handle and very happy with set-up. Use the Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings with the lock rings. Had a turret press for years and used it without auto-index as a single stage and swapped out pre-loaded turrets. I like to prime off the press so the kit with the hand priming tool is the one I would get. If you get Lee Precision equipment get Modern Reloading by Richard Lee. Best manual out there along with Lymans 4th Cast Bullet manual. You could also start off with a Hand Press which I find to be most useful/convenient. You could never go wrong with the Classic Turret kit from Graf & Sons. Very good deal.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/23840

[UBER7MM]

I consider a tumbler for brass a luxury unless your brass has fallen in the mud. A wipe with a soft cloth is fine. I managed for 20 or more years without one.....

+ 1 MostlyLeverGuns

I had a Lyman vibrating tumbler. I rarely used it. I ended up selling it. I hope the guy that bought it is as happy with my tumbler as I was with his money!

[David2011]

Just curious and don't want to hijack the thread-But- why is a beam scale better than a digital?
Thanks

There are other reasons like longevity but a digital scale that's as good as a beam scale is going to get pricey. My electronic scale experience is limited to a very high end lab scale, an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 and a cheap import marketed as a Frankford Arsenal product but sold by many retailers. The beam scales I've used are a triple beam lab scale and several of the 5-0-5 by Ohaus. The Chargemaster 1500 matches the readings of the 5-0-5s and is easy to use but is roughly twice the price. The high end scales could weigh a pencil mark on paper but were not used for reloading. The low priced import was, well, I got what I paid for. A cheap beam scale would have been an improvement.

David

[str8wal]

Just curious and don't want to hijack the thread-But- why is a beam scale better than a digital?
Thanks

A beam scale will always return to it's balance point, or zero. A digital has no balance point and relies on an electronic sensor, therefore you will never be 100% sure it is reading consistantly from sample to sample.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've been using a Dillon electronic scale for years and it's accurate enough for reloading. My RCBS 5-0-5 is my old stand-by. I occasionally check the digital scale against the beam scale and check weights. The Dillon scale is spot on and gives repeatable readings. A grain is 1/7000 lb. and we're measuring to the tenth of a grain. Repeatable readings at that level of precision are well within the needs of reloading. I don't doubt that a beam scale is better than a fairly inexpensive digital scale but I think a good digital scale is adequate for reloading.

[Handloader109]

Good digital scale is expensive and a luxury for a new Reloader. I've the 50th anniversary kit and the scale is a bit hokey, but it works, is accurate and repeatable. You didn't say what you are loading, it does make a bit of difference. I'm mainly Pistol loader and have no use for a trickier. I do like the quick disconnect bushings, I can save minutes if I am loading several different powders /calipers.

[jmort]

The digital scale Brian Enos sells or the GEM 250 are accurate to .02 grains. Using check weights and even having the extremely/dependable/annoying accurate Lee scale as a back-up is more than enough. The Enos scale has a lifetime warranty. The notion that
electronic scales are not accurate, dependable, or reliable is foolish. Even the cheap ones work well enough as long as you have check weights and a mechanical back-up.

http://brianenos.com/store/be.scale_pd.html

[TaylorS]

I'm gonna start with 9mm lugar since I have bullets for it I will also have dies and stuff for 40S&W 45ACP 223/5.56 308Win and 30-06 everything I'll be loading will be in semi autos except the 308 and 30-06

[r1kk1]

And made in China.

106353

Anywho, Lee presses are not pot metal but aluminum. Can't argue plastic. ASTM 380 if I remember my email to Lee.

I hate kits. I have a plethora of colours because what I like. Scale - 1010 and old Dillon Eliminator. I use two different trimmer systems depending if I have to remove a ton of brass in length, I.e., 357 and 30 Herret.

I really like any of my four single stage presses I have. I have three different powder measures.

Take care

r1kk1

[jmort]

Actually, Lee Precision presses are either aluminum or cast iron. RCBS and Lyman for that matter outsource to China, not Lee. Some of the castings for RCBS presses were/are made in China. RCBS may have stopped due to criticism but many other products made in China. That RCBS Summit looks nice. Great design.

[dudel]

And made in China.

Funny how some people will moan about RCBS having some parts made in China, and then go out and buy Tula primers.

Plus one for the RCBS single stage. Actually for someone starting out, I would recommend most any single stage over a Lee Turret. If after using a single stage they feel they need more speed, or it's a hobby they want to pursue (and not all do), then they can move to a progressive. The single stage will still find plenty of use on the bench. The Lee Turret tried to combine the best of single stage and progressive, and failed (IMHO). Yes, I had a Lee Turret, and the best I can say about it, is that I didn't loose much money when I resold it a few months later. I have plenty of other Lee equipment that has worked and stayed with me; but the Lee Turret is not one of them.

[David2011]

The digital scale Brian Enos sells or the GEM 250 are accurate to .02 grains. Using check weights and even having the extremely/dependable/annoying accurate Lee scale as a back-up is more than enough. The Enos scale has a lifetime warranty. The notion that
electronic scales are not accurate, dependable, or reliable is idiotic. Even the cheap ones work well enough as long as you have check weights and a mechanical back-up.

http://brianenos.com/store/be.scale_pd.html

At $160 that is not a cheap scale. A very nice beam balance can be bought for less.

Idiotic? That's kind of harsh. The Frankford Arsenal scale I bought drifts so I never know when it's accurate except immediately after checking and re-zeroing. It's usually good for minutes before recalibration is needed. My idiocy is based on empirical information.

"Even the cheap ones work well enough as long as you have check weights and a mechanical back-up." --I believe that makes my point perfectly.

David

[VHoward]

Yes, cheap scales are poo. Youy get what you pay for. Buy a quality one such as the Dillon Digital or the one JMortimer linked to and you can count on them to be accurate. I bought a cheap Hornady scale (less than $30) and it would drift often and need recalibration constantly. I learned my lesson. I bought a Winstead Peters digital scale and have not had any problems with it. I also have an RCBS 5-0-5 scale and it works awesome.

[VHoward]

To the OP. The kit I started with was the 50th anniversary kit. It worked fine to get me started. The first piece of equipment I replaced in it was the powder scale. The one I got would not give me repeatable readings and would not return to zero every time. I replaced it with an RCBS 5-0-5 scale.

[str8wal]

The notion that electronic scales are not accurate, dependable, or reliable is idiotic.

Idiotic?

Seriously?

[HeavyMetal]

I have both Beam scales and an Electronic scale, an early Pact that has served me well for years and never failed.

BUT I use my RCBS 5-10 or Hornady scale when setting up my powder measures, the Pact is just used for weighing boolits when needed.

I've found that the beam scales set up faster then my Pact and are just as accurate.

So buy a beam scale now and work into a good electronic one later, much later.

Lee makes great Press's the Classic cast is a beauty, haven't seen the turret version yet.

Some of the Lee powder measures have good features but hunt around for an old SEACO if you can find one under 50 nab it fast!

Avoid the Lee safety Scale like the plague! I had one and hated the small end scale set up and could never get it set right gave it to a friend who gave it to a friend who...... well I think ya get my drift.

Avoid the Lee pistol FCD die like the Plague!

Buy carbide dies, Lee are good in standard calibers as are RCBS and Lyman as well as the other out there do not buy used dies until you get a lot more expereince under your belt!

The Lee case length trim set up is the best way to go if your doing a lot of brass, I have the little collet Tool that goes in an electric drill
to hold case's it is the best thing on the market if you understand how it works, it's not hard to learn just different.

In all honesty if I was setting up someone to reload today the bench would be a pretty colorfull place with pieces from just about everyone.

Most "kits" have things in them I never use, so I prefer to pick and choose what I need, hope this helps ya get going.

[Petrol & Powder]

I don't like kits either and my bench is also a colorful mix of different brands. Kits can offer a good value for start up. You'll inevitably end up with some unwanted items in any kit but I think when you add in the cost of just one shipping charge, you still come out ahead by starting with a kit.
Knowledge is gained as one builds experience in reloading and with time comes appreciation for what is needed and what is not. When I help people new to reloading they have some initial difficulty getting their heads around the overall concept. A good solid single stage O-frame press will always be an important piece of useful gear. A decent scale is needed. A lot of the other items needed depend on the type of operations you intend to perform. For example I've had to explain to new reloaders that they need to lube their cases before sizing because they had steel dies and not carbide dies. I've also had to explain two die sets for rifle cartridges vs. three die sets or full length sizing vs. neck sizing.
It's much easier to know what to purchase after you've been doing it a while.

As for where it's made, That's low on my list of important factors. I like to buy American when it's feasible but price and quality are FAR more important criteria to me than manufacturing origin. In today's global economy it is naïve to believe that consumers can protect American workers by buying American.

[flounderman]

I been doing this for 60 years or more. You need a book, a press, a scale, dies and a powder measure. I have a lee hand primer and use it because I get a better feel. also, get in the habit of running your finger over the seated primer to be sure it feels flush. I'm not a lover of buying kits, unless you have nothing to start with. You shouldn't need a case trimmer. One of the inside, outside case mouth trimmers should work to start with. I have several lyman adjustable measures. I don't like disk measures. Keep a log of what you load. Any of the balance beam scales is all you need. You don't need to weigh every charge. You set the powder measure and develop a consistent motion throwing the powder and check an occasional charge. You can make a loading block with a drill and a 2 x 6, or buy one, but use a loading block. fill it with primed, sized emptys and fill all the cases from the powder measure at one time. You can then visually check the powder level in each for consistency. I had a trickler once, never used it and put it on ebay. I have one of the three hole Lee turrents I have used for years and like it. You set the seating depth by seating a bullet a little long and chambering the load. extract it and look at the rifling marks on the bullet shoulder. Adjust the seating depth so the bullet is just clearing the marks. When you are sizing, unless the cases are from another gun, or are a tight fit, don't full length resize. Back the die off to size about 3/4 of the neck. It isn't necessary to tumble brass. I seldom do unless they are extremely dirty. You can always add the bells and whistles later if you feel the need, but a Lee turrent, a balance beam scale, and an adjustable powder measure and a book are really all you need.

[Petrol & Powder]

flounderman makes some good points. You can get by with some basic tools and a bit of knowledge. A book is Key!
I also like a hand priming tool over a press mounted priming system when using a single stage press. Once you get started and get your head around the process; you will have a much better grasp on what is important. Even though I don't care for kits, they are a good way to get started if you have nothing.

[TaylorS]

Thanks for the info I'm prolly gonna need another book for the 223 stuff since my book has everything but the 62grain fmj ( my A2 is a picky turd) I run 3 9 mm and 3 AR variants so sounds like full length sizing is in order I found a wash solution on here that cleans up brass pretty well curious though about decapping before I size so that the primer pocket gets cleaned in the process seems to make sense but then again I've only loaded 12ga and I was maybe 10 at the time not much that I remember:D

[TaylorS]

On powder measures I'm looking at a Lyman powder measure and the rcbs uni flow powder measure any thoughts on these two? I've seen several say they weren't thrilled with the lee disc measures

[str8wal]

Lyman

The Lyman 55 is the best there is IMO. I have a bunch of them.

[Petrol & Powder]

I use a Redding Match grade 3BR but that's a high dollar measure. The RCBS Uniflow is close in design to the Redding and you can almost buy two of those for the price of the Redding. I will not slander the Lyman but I've had good experience with RCBS stuff.

[VHoward]

Both the Lyman 55 and the RCBS measures are good. It just comes down to brand preference between the 2.

[Petrol & Powder]

It's a little more than just brand preference.
The designs of the adjustable chambers are different. The Lyman uses a horizontal sliding section to adjust the volume of the rotating drum and the RCBS uses an adjustable piston to alter the volume of the powder cavity. They both accomplish the same goal but the RCBS type has a reputation of providing greater consistency.
There are certainly plenty of Lyman 55's in use and they are often available on the used market. I think Lyman settled on that design and they were reluctant to change it over the years.
I'm not going to say that the Lyman design is bad but I do think the RCBS type is better.

[VHoward]

I have gotten great consistancy from the Lee powder measure that mounts to the bench. I still believe it is just brand preference. Your preference is obviously RCBS.

[Petrol & Powder]

Well my preference is actually Redding but champagne taste on a beer budget often sends me to RCBS. :smile:
It's very easy to start splitting hairs over things that don't matter that much and powder measures are probably one of those things. One does have to decide what is good enough. Anything past good enough is just icing on the cake.

I'm not a fan of Joseph Stalin or communism but he did say (and I'm paraphrasing a bit) - Perfection is the enemy of adequate.

[L Erie Caster]

When it comes to stick powders the Lyman 55 can’t be beat, its much more consistent than RCBS or Hornady.