223 5.56 crimped primer pockets

[Ford SD]

Well I picked up 1k of once fired brass and 90% ARE CRIMPED
I don't have a Swager no $$ for one either

I deprimed App 300 Win Crimped and the crimp on them is so Bad I can not put in the lyman Pocket crimp remover

Tried A turn or two with the RCBS Debur tool
then the Lyman crimp remover will fit in about 25% of the time and very tight the rest of the time

On A few I tried a VLD debur tool on the SR primer pocket Just a turn or at the most 2 turns
then the Lyman Tool falls in to the pocket and if turned does not remove any Brass

Just wondering if any one has done this with out distroying the pockets beyound use

Not able to do any testing for a while Work Late and work every weekend so difficult to get to the gun club

But Do like to come home and relax by prepping brass and don't want to ruin it

so is the VLD reamer a good or bad Idea for the SR primer pocket ????

Thanks

[marvelshooter]

I use a 60 degree countersink to remove crimps from 5.56 primer pockets. I chuck it in a cordless drill and hold the case in my hand and go lightly. After I figured how much of a chamfer was needed it goes quickly.

[1989toddm]

I use a 60 degree countersink to remove crimps from 5.56 primer pockets. I chuck it in a cordless drill and hold the case in my hand and go lightly. After I figured how much of a chamfer was needed it goes quickly.

I use a countersink also. Very quick.

[aspangler]

I use a 45 degree. hard to find but works like a champ.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Ditto: A countersink is quickest and easiest and definitely the cheapest way to do this job. Learning curve is very short, you need about .020 of chamfer to remove the crimp which equates to about 1-2 seconds on the countersink.

I do recommend a Severance 6 or 8 flute CSK simply because they do a better job quicker. These are available at any outfit that sells machine shop supplies like drills and taps and the like.

The crimp on most Lake City brass is a full circle all the way around the primer. All you have to do is chamfer until that ring is gone and you are good to go.

No need to make this any more complicated that this. It is a simple and fast thing to do and you should be able to do 15-20 a minute with very little effort.

Randy

[zuke]

Use a cordless drill


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Hex-3pc-12mm-16mm-19mm-Countersink-Bore-Set-for-Wood-Metal-Quick-Change-Bit-/290885890019?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43ba266fe3#ht_0wt_0

[Cmm_3940]

No need to buy a countersink bit if you have a standard deburr tool. That otherwise useless center post will fit in the chuck of a cordless drill.

[petroid]

I use the aforementioned countersink with a drill press. Take a scrap piece of wood and drill a 1/4" hole through it. then a 3/8" hole halfway through. Clamp to drill press table. Stick a case in and center under the press. run the countersink down firmly to push the brass til it bottoms out then set the stop. reams out primer pockets quick!

[lowallman]

A #2 center drill in a 1/4" rod collar with set screw can be adjusted to give the right amount of chamfer to remove crimp. Once adjusted use a drill motor or set up in a drill press. Makes short work of 100 cases.

[Postalpaul]

I cut the Lyman primer pocket cutter out of the handle
Mount it in my drill press and let her eat

[zuke]

I use a counter sink from my machinist day's chucked into a bench top drill press with the speed set as fast as possible. Take's a split second and the crimp dissappear's in a spray of fine brass dust.

[David2011]

Over the years I've tried just about every tool available for removing primer crimps from the functional but slow RCBS press tool to a Dillon Super Swage. I like my Super Swage but they are pricey now; mine is very old. The best bang for the buck IMO is the Hornady primer pocket reamer. An individual reamer is about $9 and the set with large and small with a handle is about $18-19. The reamers are tool steel, very sharp and incapable of cutting too deeply because the end doesn't cut; it just bottoms out in the primer pocket. It can be driven by a drill, drill press or manually operated. They will also fit the motorized case prep stations that use 8-32 threads.

If you go the countersink route, Randy's advice is excellent. There's a big difference between hardware store countersinks and GOOD ones.

David

[Ford SD]

Thanks for the advice Every One

now using a old rcbs debur tool in cordless drill ( very light pressure for a very short time )

i now wish my drill was lighter

spent tonight doing some rp brass ------> no primer fix needed :smile:

[zuke]

Keep an eye on kijiji or princess auto for a small drill press. Even garage sale's!

[sprinkintime]

[

If you need a countersink, I have some Weldon countersinks I would send you, just PM me your address and I will mail them out. Sprink

[slughammer]

Well I picked up 1k of once fired brass and 90% ARE CRIMPED
I don't have a Swager no $$ for one either

I deprimed App 300 Win Crimped and the crimp on them is so Bad I can not put in the lyman Pocket crimp remover

Well maybe there is something wrong with the lyman tool then. Are you trying to push the brass onto it when it's turning or stationary? When it's spinning, the straight section should cut its way in. If it's not sharpened correctly you can fix that and sharpen it with a 1/4" square stone.

Instead of holding the drill motor, you can lay it on the kitchen counter with the handle against the backsplash (if it has variable speed and a trigger lock). Then use both hands to hold the brass and push it onto the cutter. One pile on the left and one on the right. Work from one to the other and it goes quickly.

[Rich/WIS]

Bought a drill chuck assembly and screwed it onto the shaft of my bench grinder. Using a countersink in the chuck I just press the case onto the spinning countersink and done, about a second or two each case. Learning curve is short, only ruined a few before I broke the code on how much pressure and how long to push. Range I go to is used by a lot of non-reloaders and I get enough 5.56 that even if I ruin a case or two it doesn't matter.

[starnbar]

I have used a 45 degree countersink for years just remove enough of the crimp so that when you reprime you can feel the primer seat in a very small bit of the crimp that's left it feels like it pops in place.

[Screwbolts]

I have used the Dillon Swage to remove the crimps but now prefer to use the Hornady primer pocket cutters. link from hornady:

http://www.hornady.com/store/Primer-Pocket-Reamer-Pkg-Handle-with-Lg-Sm-Heads-3pack/

most retailers have these, I have done 10K plus of just SR with it. I do chuck the unit in the lath to turn it and hand feed the case on it. pockets are tight and prime perfect regardless of head stamp.

Ken