S&W Model 14 Problem

[wv109323]

I was testing some loads with my S&W Model 14-6 today and had an occurrence that I would like some help with. The pistol was mounted in a Ransom Rest. The Ransom Rest has a mechanism that pulls the trigger so that the trigger has an even and consistent pressure applied. The trigger mechanism on the rest was not allowing the trigger to freely return forward after the shot was fired. I had to manually move the mechanism forward to allow the trigger to reset.
One time I was able to cock the hammer( I was firing the pistol single action) without the cylinder rotating. I also had the same problem in a match one time. Is it possible to partially release the trigger and cock the hammer without rotating the cylinder. Could you fire the pistol, partially release the trigger, pull the trigger again and then cock the hammer without rotating the cylinder?
Looking to pick someone's brain on the S&W action.

[akajun]

the spring inside the recoil block is either worn or someone lightened it too much in a trigger job.

[Mumblypeg]

Yep, sounds like a too light rebound spring...or it's sticking for some reason.

[Char-Gar]

Your Smith and Wesson double action revolver has three spring;

1. The flat main spring that powers the hammer.

2. The trigger rebound spring (coiled) that is inside the trigger rebound block and powers return of the trigger to full forward position.

3. A bolt spring (coiled) that is in the front of the frame and powers the bolt up to lock into the cylinder notch.

You have two problems going on. The trigger rebound spring is not doing it's thing and neither is the bolt spring. There are three possible causes;

A. Somebody has played with the springs trying to get a smoother trigger pull, which is a bad idea, or replaced with weaker after market springs, which is also a bad idea.

B. The springs have become worn with use and have lost enough of their power to cause what you are experiencing.

C. The insides of you handgun are crudded up with oil, grit and grease preventing the springs from doing their thing correctly. This would be my first guess.

The fix is to detail strip your handgun and clean it thoroughly, lubricate properly and reassemble. If it still gives problems replace all three springs with factory fresh ones. Not after market springs but genuine Smith and Wesson springs.

The handguns are not difficult to take down, but there are a few tricks. If you don't know how, buy the book "The S&W Revolver, a Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. All information you need is in that book. If you don't know how to do it and don't want to learn how, then pay somebody to do it and don't whine about the cost.
.

[Mk42gunner]

I agree with Char-Gar. A good detail strip and cleaning is probably all that is needed. If replacement springs are necessary, stock S&W springs are best, with the strain screw ran in tight.

Robert

[foesgth]

If you have never done a strip on a S&W check out the video on Midway's site. It goes through disassembly and lube. You also don't need the rebound spring tool a small phillips works well.

[Hardcast416taylor]

When I ran the indoor pistol section of a gun club I was also President of I did many spring jobs on S&W revolvers. I used Wolff kits and Trapper spring kits. Some of the newer guns really had a "Lawyer Proof" trigger with pull poundage double action up in the teens of pounds and single action pulls only slightly less. I would advise the pistol owners what kits to buy for their pistols and I would install the springs with their helping to learn how their pistol worked.Robert