Lube-sizer Heaters

[sundog]

What device is there that will control a 'store-bought' heater?

I'm thinking wide open to warm up then scale it back to maintain just the right temp.

[VTDW]

Sundog,

I would think you could splice in a rheostat. I have been thing about trying that on my Lyman 4500. Tony told me you are a good guy. Is that right?:mrgreen:

Dave

[Dale53]

I use a Dremel tool rheostat to control my Lyman heater that my Star is mounted on (use the same heater and control with my RCBS lube/sizer).

You can also make your own rheostat with a plastic control box with a light fixture control (just make sure that it is large enough capacity for your heater - normally that is not a problem as most of these heaters are low wattage). You just install an outlet in a box alongside a light dimmer and run a short cord to your wall outlet. I suggest you also wire a switch in so you don't have to plug and unplug the unit (switches are made to cycle and plugs are NOT designed to plug in and out whenever you use it - you get an arc every time you unplug a live plug and this leads to a high resistance connection condition that generates heat at the plug - not a good thing).

So, a box, a switch, an outlet (to plug the heater in) and a light dimmer switch wired correctly to function as you wish) all in one unit.

Or, since I already had the Dremel speed control, I use it.

It is necessary to turn it on and wait ten-fifteen minutes to warm. It really doesn't take much heat, just warm to the touch. You will quickly find out how hot you need it (minimum is best as you do NOT want to melt the lube, just soften it). I leave mine at the same setting just turning it on and off in use. I typically turn it on, run the Dillon a bit until the proper time has elapsed then start lubing/sizing.

NOTE:
Some light dimmers have an on/off switch incorporated in their operation. That would be the easiest and most desirable type (wouldn't have to worry about a separate switch).

More than you ever wanted to know...[smilie=1:

Dale53

[sundog]

Dave, me a good guy? I'll have to have a talk with him again about spreading that nasty rumor. It's just ruining my reputation.

Dale, thanks. Just kinda what I've been thinking about. I've got 2 heaters, both on Ly 450s, that both came in trade or swap meet and occasionally use a little bit of Orange Magic. I don't like having to constantly plug and unplug after it's up to temp. I'm in process of converting lube in one over to alox/beeswax (to use up all the alox I have on hand) and it's a little stiff also.

A simple rheostat is kinda what I've been thinking.

Let's see what else turns up...

[Marshal Kane]

I use a power bar equipped with an on/off switch and a Lyman heater pad. Let the heater warm for about 15 minutes, then cycle the power bar as needed. Once the lube in the lubrisizer gets warm, very little heat is necessary to keep things soft. Hardly any break in my sizing rythme using the power bar method. I like the dimmer switch w/outlet suggestion. Might give that a try.:-D

[mtgrs737]

Anyone have a Midway heater? I have a new one that was left over form selling their stuff years ago and it is adjustable for temp. Did they quit making them for a reason?

[rbwillnj]

The old Midway heater with the screw to adjust the temperature looks to be essentially the same as the heater that Magma engineering sells for for $100. I have one like it and it works great for hot wax lubes. I used to have the Lyman heater but it takes quite a while to come up to temperature, and if left on it gets too hot.

[mtgrs737]

rbwillnj,

Thanks for the info, I was considering the Magma heater but it looks like I might aready have one!

[Forester]

Does the midway heater have a light on it like the Magma one does? I find it to be the best part of the Magma heater. Just turn it on and set it a little below the ideal heat. wait for the light to go out and then turn the air pressure up and start lubing perfect boolits!

[hydraulic]

My wife uses one of those wand type hair curllers and I plug it in and set it next to my #45 Lyman sizer. Works ok for softening up Lars Red. I got the idea of using that box that you plug into the wall socket for my homemade bore cleaner. Does the box reduce the watts, volts, amps (or whatever it is that comes out of the wall) enough so it wouldn't be dangerous? How do you tell which wire is positive (to attach to the barrel) and which is negative (for the rod), if I just cut off the wire where it enters the hair dryer? (She has several of these with wornout bristles, but they still work).

[454PB]

I don't know a lot about the electric bore cleaners, but I do know they use low voltage direct current. Hair curlers operate on AC and at 120 volts. I suspect the "box" you refer to is a GFCI to protect the user in wet locations. Don't hook that up to your barrel!

[montana_charlie]

hydraulic,
After reading your questions about a curling iron and homemade bore cleaner...and the way you asked them...I highly recommend that you don't try to make anything.

Find an item that does the job you want done, and buy it. Then read the instructions and follow them.

You obviously don't know enough, about electricity, to be trying to modify electrical appliances.

Don't feel bad. Everybody knows something...and nobody knows everything.
But a man's got to know his limitations...

CM

[MT Gianni]

I think that box is a low voltage transformer that would get you little or no heat. Use a trouble light, hook it next to the main bolt and turn it off and on when you need it. Gianni

[376Steyr]

Midway doesn't currently list their old heater, though they do carry the Lyman one. Can't say that I blame them for getting out of the lube heater business, as the combination of electricity, hot surfaces, and possibly flammable bullet lube seems like lawyer-bait to me. Too bad, as I have an old Midway heater and wish I had bought a bunch more of them.

[Lloyd Smale]

I use one of the midway heaters but its a *** for controling the heat properly. It seems like its either to hot or to cold so im constantly turing it on and off. Ive got a reostat mounted on the bench from the time i tried one of the dillon primer tube fillers (DONT BUY ONE) ill have to give it a try.
Midway doesn't currently list their old heater, though they do carry the Lyman one. Can't say that I blame them for getting out of the lube heater business, as the combination of electricity, hot surfaces, and possibly flammable bullet lube seems like lawyer-bait to me. Too bad, as I have an old Midway heater and wish I had bought a bunch more of them.

[hydraulic]

Montana Charlie: I am obliged to you for good advice. I have been using a 9 volt lantern battery with good results, but they are expensive and I was hoping to find some kind of voltage reduction device that would work.

[Shepherd2]

I used a Midway heater for quite a few years with good results. When I got a Lyman 4500 with a heater last year I plugged it into my Dremel tool rheostat for temperature control. That works fine plus the rheostat has a big red light to remind me to shut it off when I'm done.

[Lee]

Get the following;
1. plug & cord set (or make your own)
2. receptacle and cord set (or make your own)
3. Lamp dimmer module
4. switchbox to mount it in
5. Two cord strain reliefs

Wire to the dimmer as per the included instruction. Route the line cord in one side of the box you bought and mounted the dimmer in. route the receptacle cord out the other end. Plug your heater into the receptacle, the plug into the wall. Turn on and set to what temp you desire. You can get fancy and wire in an incandescent light bulb in parallel with the heater. That will give a visual indication of your heating( dim to bright is cold to hot)

OR you can do the following;
1. buy a porcelain light socket
2. buy or make a cord and plug set
3. Buy or make a cord and receptacle set.

Wire the heater in series with the light bulb socket. What wattage light bulb you screw in will determine how hot your heater gets. A low wattage bulb of 15 to 25 watts will not get the heater as warm as a 100 or 150 watt bulb will.

Good electrical practices and ample insulation applies to the above suggestions. Don't come crying to me if your wiring is shoddy and you electrocute yourself.........Lee:wink:

[mtgrs737]

I just made up a switch box to plug the Midway Heater into, I used a switch with a red light to remind me that it is still on. Bought all the parts at the hardware store. Next I will be building a switch box with a rheostat and a light for a Lyman heater.

Does anyone know what wattage the Lyman heater draws?

[Morgan Astorbilt]

I just put a rocker switch, the kind you wire right on the zip cord, on the power cord about six inches from my Midway heater. Saves me from having to bend down and unplug it. I don't think it's the same heater as Magma sells. The magma heater appears(from looking at the parts list), to be much heavier, especially the heating element, and thermostst. It's also got a larger wattage, 100W if memory serves me. The Midway is probably about 20w.
Morgan

[Lloyd Smale]

I dont think id be conserned about the wattage. I cast up here i northern michigan and have sized bullets out in the barn when the temps have been close to zero and the only problem ive ever had with the midway is keeping it from getting to hot.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Doesn't it have a temp control on the top right rear? My basement stays a steady 55º-60º year round, and I've never had to re-adjust it, even when switching back and forth between Rooster Zambini and Jake's Ceresin lubes.
Morgan

[Lloyd Smale]

ya it does but using it in a cold barn with soft lube tends to make it need to run in a small window that the controler doesnt seem sensitive enough to maintain. Its just been easier to unplug it and plug it as needed. I do have the reostat on the bench from the old dillon primer tube feeder and next tim i use it ill try turning it full on and controling it with the reostat.

[454PB]

Montana Charlie: I am obliged to you for good advice. I have been using a 9 volt lantern battery with good results, but they are expensive and I was hoping to find some kind of voltage reduction device that would work.

You can use a "wall wart" transformer/rectifier for DC, just make sure it's a DC output. The kind that comes with computer peripherals like printers, cell phone chargers, cordless drill chargers, etc. should work, but you have to read the output information printed on the case. I have quite a pile of them stored away, the item they powered died, and I save the charger. (kind of like saving brass for guns you don't own)

The important thing is that it be DC, and at reduced voltage. The box you described attached to a curling iron should have input and output information printed on it, but it is surely AC output. I'll bet it is a GFCI and has a reset button on it. The one my wife uses matches that description.

As Mt.Charlie said, it's best to not mess with this stuff if you are unsure.