Welding question?

[Mike W1]

I am not metal oriented so this will be a dumb question asked of someone that knows. Have a press with a 11/16" operating handle. Want to add a few inches length to it and put a ball handle on. Biggest bit I have to drill out the knob is 5/8".

Is it possible to weld a piece of 5/8" cold rolled steel to that 11/16" handle and have it look decent? Be cheaper I'm sure than having someone turn the end to 5/8" on a whole new piece of 11/16".

[2ridgebacks]

Do you have a ball now? Are you sure the end hasn't been turned down to 5/8"? 11/16 is not a real common thread size. 5/8 is much more so. If it is, you may be able to get away with a threaded coupling in 5/8-11.

http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Fasteners/Nuts/Standard-SAE-Coupling-Nuts/_/N-1z0yk2n/pl#!&N%5B%5D=1z0wwo4&N%5B%5D=1z0yk2n

[country gent]

Take it to a local machine shop they can drill and tap 1/2 20 threads in the end and turn the extension up with 1/2 20 male threaded end to thread into it. Then same on other end for a ball with 1/2 20 threads. It canbe welded but wont look as good. Even welding you would want a 5/8 hole into the end an inch or so for alighnment reasons. Mechanical tubing is available in a variety of sizes also a piece with 11/16" bore and around 7/8 od the full length you want could be set over the existing handle full length and an insert glued in for the handle. If you liked the modification you could epoxy it all together

[too many things]

sounds like you have an older Lyman you can drill a pool ball with a wood "paddle" bit . and use Grorella glue
If it is a handle that dont thread or uses a set screw just use a longer set set screw in a 5/8 rod

[Bradley09]

The simplest way to do it would be a sheathed bar like post 3. If you really just wanna weld it on there then a 1 inch deep alinement hole whould be needed in the exact size of the bar you want to use, then insert said bar and weld her on I would lay overlapping beads to create a 45 degree slope from bar to handle then grind to make it cosmetic . What type of welding are you gonna use? Tig Mig Stick?

[petroid]

Is the existing handle just a simple 11/16" bar or is it welded to the linkage? If straight bar, could you just buy a longer piece of bar stock and use it?

[jmorris]

What is the ball made out of? If it is plastic you could heat the bar and put the ball on and once it cools, it will be stuck pretty good.

[Mike W1]

It's an old Lyman AA Turret press. I suppose the simplest thing would be to just get a longer piece of 11/16" which is what is on it now. It's not threaded on the handle end now and the wooden grip just slides on. Want just a slightly longer bar and will put a wooden knob on with epoxy like I've done on a couple other units. Just too tight to buy a 11/16" bit to drill the ball!
Suppose I could just drill it 5/8" and file a 1/16 out long as I'm gonna epoxy it anyways, really isn't that fussy I guess.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Petroid, had the correct answer to this quiz !!!

You will note that 11/16" stock is not that uncommon and you can buy a short piece from Mc Master Carr for a few $.

If you need male threads on either end the easiest way to do it is to drill and tap the end of the rod the size you want and use a short piece of threaded rod to screw into the handle and leave enough sticking out to thread into what ever you need to. (Loctite it in place) This is much easier than trying to do an external thread on a lathe or using a Threading Die freehand. I own a machine shop and I do my own handles this way, it is simply an easy way to achieve good results.

I did my C&H press handle and it is a joy to use.

The proper size for a ball handle for a press type machine is 2/1/4" and you can buy balls any size you want from Mc Master Carr as well.

Randy

[bear67]

Too bad you are in the Cornhusker state and not close to Texas. Could weld an extension on the handle in a minute and fix end for ball. Heck, I am sure there is 11/16" rod and spare handle balls in my spare parts repository. Randy had a good Idea when he suggested a piece of rod from one of the machine supply houses and a little work. A weld would be easy, but a little proud of the diameter even ground and polished down. Good Luck.

[oger]

Cold roll steel does not weld worth 5cents. If you are going to weld something on get a good piece of steel.

[jmorris]

Cold roll steel does not weld worth 5cents. If you are going to weld something on get a good piece of steel.

Being a welder I am not sure if I could disagree more with this statement. I would take cold rolled over hot rolled everyday of the week, even if you already had the hot roll clean.

[1hole]

You can buy a 3/4" spade bit pretty cheep. Drill your hole and fill the gap with epoxy. BUT, if you just gotta have a longer operating lever, you have no choice but to buy a longer stick of 11/16" OR weld a stub of whatever to lengthen what you have. A decent weld will clean up pretty easily with a grinder and/or file. I'm just a midllin' welder but I find cold rolled welds fine.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I concur. Cold Rolled Steel welds just fine. Here's a whole Jeep frame made from it.

Randy

[375RUGER]

That Jeep's just gonna fall apart cause "Cold roll steel does not weld worth 5cents.":kidding:

Is that 'just' a transfer case or is it something more?

[Alan in Vermont]

Cold roll steel does not weld worth 5cents. If you are going to weld something on get a good piece of steel.

I can't imagine where you dredged that bit of BS up.

[jmorris]

I concur. Cold Rolled Steel welds just fine. Here's a whole Jeep frame made from it.

Randy

Nice to see others that know how to make a proper gusset plate.

[Love Life]

I can't imagine where you dredged that bit of BS up.

Heard it on the internet.

[Uncle R.]

"Cold Rolled Steel" isn't a complete description. It tells you something about the manufacturing process but only hints at the chemical composition of the steel. Saying "cold rolled steel" is sort of like saying "finish sanded wood." You need more information to know exactly what you're dealing with.
<
Uncle R.

[jmorris]

The blanket statement that it does not weld well though is simply false, to anyone that knows what they are doing.

Kind of like a guy with an AC Lincoln "cracker box" saying you could never weld two aluminum cans together.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/tig.jpg

I have welded cold rolled alloys from the most common 1018, the more "exotic" 4130 and even some 8620, with success. Not to mention all of the above are considered "good" vs many other alloys of steel.


This is a photo of some double pass cold rolled Inconel I welded to stainless for a "little" 30,000,000 btu hydrogen/natural gas burner.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0126.jpg

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK Morris,,, Now I'm impressed. The aluminum cans are a pretty good trick!

I had a girlfriend once who could weld two razor blades together, edge to edge. She worked for an outfit that made SS bellows for instruments, and welded the super thin stuff all day long. She told me she was good down to .004 material. I'm good down to about 1/8"! When I hit the pedal the razor blades just disappeared.

Most of that Jeep frame was done with MIG but all the mounts and attachments to the frame are 1018 CRS and Heliarced. I use the Heliarc when the weld really matters as penetration is never an issue with Heliarc.

375Ruger: the drive train is a 4BT B3.9L Cummins (2/3's of the 6BT used in Dodge trucks.) A GM TH400 3sp Auto tranny, then a US gear Overdrive unit, and then an Advance Adapters Atlas Transfercase.

This frame and all it's attachments, all the drive train adapters, and anything you can't buy off the shelf,,, was designed and built by me. Some of the welding on the frame was done by a friend who specializes in close tolerance weldments. The frame is square within .020!

The fuel tank was welded by another friend who is very good with Aluminum. My aluminum welding leaves a little to be desired and the tank couldn't leak so I deferred to him. He owed me a favor anyway.

When done the only "Jeep part" on this vehicle will be the Grill which came from a 1978 CJ7. The rest was built from scratch.

Here's a pic of the best weld on the project and it is the Transfer case support which directly under the vehicle so you can only see it if you crawl under. After the skid plate is installed you won't be able to see it at all. You can't buy this stuff anywhere it must be fabricated.

That support was made from 1/2 X 4 CRS and 1/2 x 2 CRS welded together at exactly 86 degrees to cope with the 4 degree angle of the drive train in the frame.

Glad CRS is not too hard to weld or else I would have had to bolt everything together.

Randy

[Bullshop Junior]

Send it to me and I'll fix it up for ya.

[jmorris]

OK Morris,,, Now I'm impressed. The aluminum cans are a pretty good trick!

Actually that was the material I mostly learned to weld aluminum with (not soda cans though], empty cans were pretty cheap and plentiful in the circles I used to run in.

[MaLar]

1018 cold rolled and other low carbon steels weld great, 4140 1045 cr and other cold rolled welding is another story.

[daniel lawecki]

Very nice looks like someone knows his s**T for sure. Would like to see more pics as you move forward.

[Bullshop Junior]

They made us weld beer cans together when I went to welding school. TIG welders are awesome.

[jonas302]

As far as the question there is no reason you cant weld it up if it was me and I had 5/8 stock on hand I would have already had it welded ground and painted it really comes down to your tools and skills available and how good you need it to look

[jmorris]

This is an untouched TIG weld I made on two different diameters of cold rolled 4130 stock.

Not unlike what the op was asking about.

[Mike W1]

This is an untouched TIG weld I made on two different diameters of cold rolled 4130 stock.

Not unlike what the op was asking about.

Gonna have to print that and check with a local welder who is rather fussy! Thanks.

[jmorris]

Some more welded 4130 in my 458 socom suppressor.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/can/458socom/weld.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/can/458socom/excham.jpg

[W.R.Buchanan]

Every small airplane fuselage that was made from tubing, was made of 4130, and most like Piper Cubs were welded with a Oxy/Acet torch.

Heliarc just does a nicer job. You simply use 4130 filler rod instead of mild steel filler. Welds exactly the same as 1018. In fact new airplanes that have similar construction to the Cub IE: The "Kit Fox" have frameworks of 1018 tubing which is welded with MIG. They use a weird method of zapping a spot and then moving to a new spot and zapping. IE Puddle, stop, puddle, stop etc. This prevents the tubing from getting too hot in one place.

All it takes is someone who actually knows how to do it. Plenty of guys and girls out there.

Randy

[Kent Fowler]

Every small airplane fuselage that was made from tubing, was made of 4130, and most like Piper Cubs were welded with a Oxy/Acet torch.

Heliarc just does a nicer job. You simply use 4130 filler rod instead of mild steel filler. Welds exactly the same as 1018. In fact new airplanes that have similar construction to the Cub IE: The "Kit Fox" have frameworks of 1018 tubing which is welded with MIG. They use a weird method of zapping a spot and then moving to a new spot and zapping. IE Puddle, stop, puddle, stop etc. This prevents the tubing from getting too hot in one place.

All it takes is someone who actually knows how to do it. Plenty of guys and girls out there.

Randy

And I thought I was the last guy in the country to call it heli-arc. Along with saying "short arc" instead of MIG. I'm old fashioned, I guess.

[jmorris]

Heli-arc is used less I think because most people don't use helium these days, instead using the cheaper argon gas.

[wrench man]

This is an untouched TIG weld I made on two different diameters of cold rolled 4130 stock.

Not unlike what the op was asking about.

6013 will produce fillet welds like that?