Need help with Ruger Blackhawk please

[ShooterAZ]

I'm starting to get doubled firing pin impressions on the primers, only with heavy loads. Obviously a weak spring issue. Do I need to replace the just the mainspring, and can this be accomplished without taking off the grip frame? Any suggestions/help will be greatly appreciated.

[contender1]

Removing a mainspring isn't a hard task.
Yes, you'll need to remove the gripframe to make it easier. In general, it's a royal pain to try & remove the mainspring & strut while still in the gun.
Remove grips.
Cock hammer.
Insert a strong pin in the strut hole under the mainspring seat.
Remove the screws holding the gripframe to the main frame. Make sure you keep up with which screws go where.
Once the G/F is off, the mainspring & strut assy can be removed.
Clamp the strut in a padded vise, seat up.
Use an old fork, or any slotted strong metal tool that will fit over the strut, alongside the strut & on the seat.
Depress the seat & mainspring assy.
REALIZE THAT EVERYTHING IS UNDER PRESSURE NOW, SO BE CAREFUL.
Pull the pin you used to capture the assy.
Carefully relax & the seat will slide off the strut.
Remove the spring, replace it & reverse the above to re-install everything.

[ShooterAZ]

Thanks. I'm assuming that it is the mainspring that needs to be replaced...correct?

[dubber123]

I'm thinking weak mainspring is giving you a bouncing hammer on recoil. I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't receive a lighter mainspring at some point in the pursuit of a lighter trigger pull. I don't care for lightening the mainspring on a Ruger S/A, the lock time is slow enough as it is. They are very easy to get nice pulls out of with full power springs anyways.

[44man]

It is a little pain to get the spring out but I do it all the time without taking the GF off.
It is hammer bounce from internal prime pressure. The "punch" to the firing pin will kick the hammer.
Get a Wolff spring of 26#, it is the first thing I change even with a new Ruger or BFR. Ruger springs weaken and when you see how short it is compared to a new spring, you will understand.
Ruger springs start out at 21 to 23#. Look for Wolff over power variable springs.
To get a double strike on a primer the hammer has to be coming back far as the cylinder stop must be moving out of the cylinder notches.
I put the strut in a vice with brass jaws and use a Crescent wrench to push with.
When I shot IHMSA I kept many new springs, cheap from Ruger but still had to change them often as accuracy just went away.
But NO, you do not have to remove the GF. Dip the end of the strut that goes in the hammer in a good grease like Brownels Action Lube. Also cock the hammer and with a stick or small screwdriver, reach in and put the grease on the sear surface too. Oil the pins.
Put STP on the cylinder pin. You will be a happy man.

[ShooterAZ]

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. I don't think its a lighter spring, just an old and well used one. I will get it replaced.

[44man]

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. I don't think its a lighter spring, just an old and well used one. I will get it replaced.
Good, it is really easy to do. Go to Wolff on line, springs are cheap and they are super to deal with. Good people.

[FLHTC]

How can you tell if you're getting double impressions in the same impact point? Are you sure the primers aren't extruding around the firing pin?

The strut can be removed without removing the frame, once the spring is captured.

[ShooterAZ]

Ummm, I can tell by looking at the fired cases. The second primer strike is nearer to the edge of the primer. The primers are not extruding around the firing pin at all. Two separate dents are being made.

[ShooterAZ]

I found this, for those that might find themselves in the same predicament. Five minute fix. I just pressed it on with the vice grips, the new spring was about 3/4+ of an inch longer.. Back in business.http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html

[JLarsson]

I found this, for those that might find themselves in the same predicament. Five minute fix. I just pressed it on with the vice grips, the new spring was about 3/4+ of an inch longer.. Back in business.http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html

Good deal! Where did you find a spring that quickly? Have you shot it again to see if the double impressions have stopped?

[44man]

That was a good find about a spring change, it really is easy.
Nise, yes, it is the hammer coming back too far. We took a video once but I don't have it. Showed the hammer on a SA waaay back after firing.
It was and still is common on S&W revolvers because too much recoil can unlock the cylinder stop from inertia. A stronger stop spring cures it. It was a problem on a few 29's where the gun goes "click" for a second shot because the cylinder rotates backwards to the previous fired case.
The X frame in .500 has doubled because if there is a live round at rotation, it can fire and the gun is in recoil from the first so it is a huge surprise. A stronger hammer spring and stop spring will cure it. You would be amazed at how far a hammer will bounce just from internal primer pressure.

[ShooterAZ]

Got the spring from Reeder, who's shop is in my town. He has all things Ruger.

[JLarsson]

Got the spring from Reeder, who's shop is in my town. He has all things Ruger.

THAT'S handy!

Didja' shoot it yet?

[ShooterAZ]

No, not yet. The hammer has a lot more snap to it now though. Hopefully one evening after work this week.