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Patrick L
01-06-2008, 12:49 PM
I have had in my family for as long as I can remember (I'm 41) a 7.7mm Type 99 that was sporterized minimally. Basically top handguard is gone, as with all forward metal. The forestock was cut off to typical sporter forend length. That was how it was when it came to our family, I believe done by the guy who brought it back. I must ashamedly admit that in my teenage years I continued to "improve" it, mainly by cold blueing a few parts and cutting the butt off and adding a walnut extension, with a sporting type butt plate, and of course refinishing it. I'm sorry, it was the 80s, this stuff was still considered junk and I was making it better to deer hunt with. I'm sure all of you did such things.

Anyhow, last spring I picked up one of those reproduction stocks Numrich has, along with all of the missing front metal. My intention was to return the rifle to as close to "as issued" configuration as possible, without going totally nuts. I didn't bother with the monopod, AA wings on the sight, or a dust cover. I'm not into getting it all "correct,' and I'm certainly not looking to sell it . I just wanted to reclaim the basic "military" feel of the gun. As the pics show, I think I did a good job. My 13 year old thinks its the coolest thing now! I generally just shoot cast lead bullets out of it, and its a fun little plinker.

Here it is before
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb157/patrickl_01/Arisaka/IMGP0817.jpg

And here is what it looks like now
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb157/patrickl_01/Arisaka/GunStuff021.jpg

I love the reddish/maroon color of the teakwood stock. It was suprising how much fitting I had to do. Tangs had to be inlet, and most of the screw holes were off a good 1/8th inch or so. It OK though, the stock fit is now very tight. I also could not get the nose cap over the front sight. I know the front sight can come off, but after a solid week of penetrating oil/heat etc. the drift pin still wouldn't budge. I ended up slitting the nose cap along the bottom with my dremel tool, slipping it over, and then the screw closed things up tight. Only a collector would mind the thin slot. The replacement screws were blued, so I guess I should blue the nose cap and front band. Those parts were heavily rusted, and in removing the rust they of course ended up bright. The only thing I really need to find now is a follower. In my own teenage exhuberance, I ground a 45 degree angle on the back of this one so the bolt would close. Numrich and Sarco don't have them, so I'll keep checking gun shows.

This gun is a nice complement to the 1903s, the Garands, and the M1 carbine I usually shoot.

Ricochet
01-06-2008, 04:18 PM
That is a pretty stock!

Razor
01-06-2008, 05:38 PM
I think you dun good...
I'm sure there are some purists out there that are pulling their hair out, even tho is isn't
"correct" I think you've accomplished your aim of returning a military feel to it..


Razor

mooman76
01-06-2008, 05:44 PM
Nice lookin gun. All I have is a last ditch 99 but it does still have the cersatimonium!

10-x
01-06-2008, 05:52 PM
Looks Good. Jap rifle prices have gone through the roof at shows, nothing to see a nice unground mum ,early to mid war for $450.00. The bayonets are also out of sight.
BTW I trust everyone knows NOT TO SAND an Original jap rifle stock......the finish was made out of some kind of sap? from a tree like poison ivy.......you will only do it once............10-x

NOUGLYGUN
01-06-2008, 06:05 PM
I got a Buba-smithed Jap for $65. I didn't feel bad about messing with it more. Now it sports a walmart scope and lives at brother in laws house. It was a great shooter and isnt missed because I can use it when ever I want. Never did any boolit shooting with it but .303 pulls with cordite powder sticks hit the 200 yard gong every time. Good job the red looks cool. A gun that you like will always shoot better.

94Doug
01-06-2008, 06:08 PM
Wow, that does look good. My project is a Jap Action and Barrel along with what parts are still laying around. It started out as a 60 dollar rifle from a local hardware store, with a cut stock, and bent bolt. I have lost the stock since then, (very long story) and have a semi-inleted (Bishop) stock that I never did finish. Looking at this project though, I think I may try to put it back more to military rather than sporter style. Then just to get the "fat 30" moulds....


Doug

Bullshop
01-06-2008, 06:18 PM
A coupla questions about the arisaka action. First does anyone offering rebarreling service do arisaka's? Second is how about D&T for scope? I assume the two holes on the receiver ring were for the dust cover. So would that weeken the ring to the point of being unsafe to add an additional hole between them?
BIC/BS

Uncle Grinch
01-06-2008, 07:08 PM
A coupla questions about the arisaka action. First does anyone offering rebarreling service do arisaka's? Second is how about D&T for scope? I assume the two holes on the receiver ring were for the dust cover. So would that weeken the ring to the point of being unsafe to add an additional hole between them?
BIC/BS

E.R. Shaw works on Arisakas, along with most all military actions.

http://www.ershawbarrels.com/

BTW... I read an article many years ago by P. O. Ackley where he tested various military actions and found the Type 99 Arisaka to be one of the strongest around.

Yours looks great now. I would keep it as is.

Patrick L
01-06-2008, 08:43 PM
BTW... I read an article many years ago by P. O. Ackley where he tested various military actions and found the Type 99 Arisaka to be one of the strongest around.



I recall a story that went something like a guy rechambered a Type 38 to .30-06. The type 38 is the 6.5 mm round, and he only rechambered it, not rebarrel or even rebore. So he proceeds to fire .30-06 ammo, squeezing those .30 caliber bullets down to .25 caliber or so. As the story went he took it to a gunsmith because it kicked so much. The Smithy figures out what the guy did and sent it somewhere (to the NRA?) for further testing. If I recall the end of the story correctly, they only suceeded in blowing the gun up by loading a case full of something like Bullseye into it. Many of the parts, when recovered, were still serviceable and in fact put on another Type 38 that needed some parts.

I think it was in de Haas' book "Bolt Action Rifles," but I'm not certain.