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Bullshop Junior
04-27-2014, 11:27 PM
I have a rebarreled model 336 and when they cut the extractor groove straight in leaving a very nice ledge there and catches the bullet on loaded rounds when trying to eject them. Unless the bullet is seated very deep or thin nosed it wont allow the cartridge to eject. Can anyone get me a pic of how it is supposed to be so I can try to modify it so it will work better? Thanks.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/2egumehy.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/9edu3ade.jpg

Gtek
04-28-2014, 12:02 AM
I have trimmed that out of several with a Dremel/ Die grinder. Put in sacrificial case and grind till you touch rolling flush into ejection port, then remove and a touch more. Not going farther than forward rim line. Best to strip guts, do not think I would pull scope but full flush and clean post work. Bolt rotation is under control of ejector. I also VERY softly radius bottom (rear edge) of extractor cut as it is usually a knife edge and can be a brass eater.

Bullshop Junior
04-28-2014, 12:12 AM
That's kinda what I was thinking, but wasn't sure if there was a exact way it should be or if I could just cut at it until it works right

missionary5155
04-28-2014, 09:21 AM
Good morning JR.
I have never seen a Marlin with a ejection port blockage like that. I have several and all have clean ejection ports. I am in Peru and 5500 miles from my storage but have a couple sources you can look at on GunBroker.
# 412355942 # 412450522 Scroll down the pictures and each add has a close up of the ejection port. The second shows a diagonal "section" still visible. I see no reason the "smith" left that chunk of obstruction hanging down.
Mike in Peru

Dan Cash
04-28-2014, 09:32 AM
I agree with the missionary, the smith did not finish the job. That right angle tag above the extractor slot should be a sloping angle from the extractor cut to the top of the ejection port.

Bullshop Junior
04-28-2014, 09:52 AM
I agree with the missionary, the smith did not finish the job. That right angle tag above the extractor slot should be a sloping angle from the extractor cut to the top of the ejection port.

That's how I remembered my marlin 30/30 and 35 remington being. I just wanted to make sure before i started trimming..

TXGunNut
04-28-2014, 08:50 PM
Still need a pic?

Bullshop Junior
04-28-2014, 09:57 PM
Nah mike. I got it ground off and did some other refining while I had it apart to improve feeding. Its slick as snot now.

bandmiller2
04-29-2014, 07:22 AM
The deed is done now but I have an older 336 that had the same extension on the back of the barrel and its factory stock. That projection is a pain in the **** to do, I'am sure Marlin had a purpose for it. Be sure to keep us posted how everything works. Thanks Frank C.

W.R.Buchanan
04-30-2014, 01:08 PM
That thing in the picture is a shroud that covers the threads in the receiver so that the bullets don't hang up on the open threads when feeding a new round.

I have never seen one like that. Pretty obvious that somebody neglected to finish the job on it.

You obviously already figured this out and fixed it.

As far as the angled cut for the extractor on the barrel, it needs to have the sharp edge broken, however the best way to do it is by attacking it from the inner edge in the chamber itself. The purpose of this is to remove any burr on the inside edge of the cut that would scratch the brass as it entered or was withdrawn from the chamber. Go easy on this since the more you remove the further up the chamber that supporting surface is pushed. As long as you don't relieve it past the extractor groove in the case you'll be fine.

If you break the inside of that edge any amount at all it should be sufficient. All you are trying to do is remove any burr intruding into the chamber.

It wouldn't hurt to break the edges on the rest of the chamber mouth as well. There are no sharp edges required on these chambers.

These guns with a little work end up being pretty nice to operate, and just about anyone can do the work. This is why I like them so much.

Randy