Is there any benefit for moly on cast boolits?

[armoredman]

Just wondering if moly coating a cast boolit would be a benefit in a gas operated firearm?

[Blammer]

hmm, good question?

I wonder if I moly them good if it would replace having to lube them?

[shooter93]

Moly does some things very well and others it seems to make little if any difference. When it first came out Mcpherson was documenting some good results. I have good luck and so so luck with it so the best I can tell you is to try it before you buy a kit to do it. Find someone who mollys bullets...probably j bullets and have them do some for you.

[leftiye]

I've recently used Lyman's Moly spray, until I ran out and saw how much it was costing. I don't believe that it did anything that Lar's C-Red won't do (and C-Red leaves a clean shiny bore). Lyman's stick moly lube is supposed to be a fine lube from what I've read. I've even got some, but haven't used it. It can't touch C-Red for price either. Don't get me wrong, cheap isn't the end all. If something was head and shoulders better, I'd use it regardless of price. I used to be all for MDS lubes, but I can't say that they ever did anything a premium wet lube wouldn"t, and they cost like H*!! (At the risk of repeating myself). There are too many FREE ways of doing away with leading, and a lot give better accuracy than MDS lubes do.

[Blammer]

I have used Lyman's black moly lube and I really liked it, then I got some speed green and I really like it, and now I have some other stuff MMM and I really like it!

maybe I'm not too picky....

[jhalcott]

NOT if you value your time! You need to tumble the bullets for a good while in moly. Then you need to warm them up to 115 degrees,so the wax adheres evenly . Then you tumble them in the Carnuba wax. The added work of cleaning the moly residue from the bore has to be counted also. You MAY get better accuracy ,but by the time you reseason the bore each session it will be a pain AND more costly.

[Bob Jones]

I wish I knew what the black moly stuff Precision Bullets uses. Before I started casting I shot many thousands of their bullets and they're great, and good prices still if you buy bulk. They put a thick layer of black coating over the whole bullet, no leading at any speed I shot them at, no exposed lead, very clean to shoot.

[Blammer]

wax? what wax? I've molied thousands of jacketed bullets and never applied any wax. Is that a unique thing to Lead bullets?

[Blammer]

cleaning moly residue from the bore is as simple as normal cleaning of a rifle barrel.

[jhalcott]

Blammer you CAN/MAY get better results if you wax your bullets after mollying them
http://www.jarheadtop.com/article_molybullets.htm

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[Forester]

hmm, good question?

I wonder if I moly them good if it would replace having to lube them?

I had exactly the same thought once...I wanted to do without the lube because I was trying to reduce smoke for .45ACP rounds to be used in IPSC and IDPA matches.

I tried them in a very good and well broken in Kart barrel and the results were, in a word, terrible. I had significant leading after 20 shots and enought after 30 that I was afraid to shoot the last 20 I had loaded. That is in a low pressure round in a very good barrel. I would hate to think what the results might be in a higher pressure scenario.

After spending hours cleaning my barrel I then tried Moly coating after the boolits are lubed. I did not have my Chrono running that day but accuracy was about the same (1 ragged hole @ 25 from the bench) and there was a little bit less smoke but not enough to be worth the hassle.

I Moly coat some J-word bullets because it seems to give a small gain in velocity but it makes a big difference in barrel heat...they just seem to stay significantly cooler with moly coated bullets.

[denul]

I used powdered moly (molybdenum disulfide) around the reloading room for years for its tremendous dry lubrication qualities on any metal parts. Several years ago, a friend who was using a legal, suppressed MAC 10, in 45 automatic, told me that he never used any cast bullets, because regardless of the hardness or softness of the lubricants, they would eventually accumulate inside the action of the weapon, and render it useless. I helped him scrape layers of the different lubricants out of the action, which didn't really hurt anything except requiring a lot of cleaning. Of course, he was also concerned that the lubricants might bleed into the suppressed and bother it as well. He was forced to use either jacket or plated bullets, and was not very satisfied with the expense of either.
I got a Lee tumble lube mold in 45, with the truncated cone design,cast several hundred with straight wheelweight. and then vibrated the bullets in powdered moly. If you have ever handled the dry powder, you know that it gets onto everything including your fingers and hands, and makes everything gray, and very slick. Well, these bullets were like that, and so I decided to run them through the Star sizer, nose first, with really good results. A very small amount of powdered moly remains in the grooves, and the sides of the resized bullet have a burnished appearance, slightly different than the appearance of wheelweight. Of course, the lubrication from the powder also makes resizing very easy. I believe that the moly is actually pressed into the bearing surfaces of the bullets, and helps prevent leading in that matter. There is no need for any grease based lubricant in these bullets.

In these relatively low velocity loads, I could detect no leading whatsoever, so I moved up to 10 mm tumble lube bullets and had the same experience at 1200 fps. It is true that there is a very thin layer of moly in the bore, but it does not get any thicker over hundreds of rounds. There also is no gumming up the action in blowback automatic weapons after 1500 or so rounds, in my experience. I have not yet tried to this in the gas operated weapons, like the 30 carbine, but I believe that it might work without fouling the gas operating system. I have absolutely no experience in action pistol shooting, but I sometimes wonder if anyone there has tried to use moly for the same reasons, and to prevent residue accumulating in vented recoil suppressors.

This has not turned me off on the other more traditional method of sizing and lubricating bullets, especially for revolvers. I still use LBT blue lube, very effectively in revolvers, and have also used the Lyman version of moly; the thicker accumulating lubricant will prevent leading and preserve accuracy, but also will eventually require removal as it deposits inside the revolver actions.