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Swagerman
01-04-2008, 04:00 PM
Got my swaging die back from Buckshot (Rick) the super machinists. He made a .432 diameter hole in the die body that was perfect.

I mainly wanted this special die to work with an over sized cylinder throat problem with one of my revolvers...but it seems well suited to bump up some bullets as the picture shows.

Observe the .38 special Meister HC round nose in 158 grain weight setting on the Lee Classic press nose punch, it gets gently thrust up into the die body until slightly attached to the ejector stem SWC shape... not fully swaged at this point...just enough to hang from the ejector stem.

Now we lower the nose punch back down enough to slip in a Hornady .44 caliber gas check under the hanging .38 caliber bullet.

Then ram the gas check up into the swage die body against the hanging bullet (now a SWC shape) until it reaches its up ward limit of preset travel.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/PB250003croppedLeeClassic410X.jpg

Then you get a bumped up bullet in size with gas a check, the gas check adds .04 tenths grains to the bullet's weight...which is now a 164 grains in .44 special mode.

Note the Berry 162 grain plated bullet with gas check swaged to its base, the increased weight is 166 grain. However the plated bullet had to have its base tapered before the GC could be applied.

Jim


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/P5020037cropped713X.jpg

creekwalker
01-04-2008, 06:53 PM
Still learning here so bear with me a bit. As I understand it you take a sutible cast/swaged bullet then reswage it to another diameter and configuration in the bump process. I can understand this and see where it could be a simpler way to get the desired bullet. Where I begin to get confused though is why not swage the correct sized bullet to begin with. Is it due to the lack of avalibility of such swage die's or their cost? Sorry to appear so igonarant, but just don't get it yet. BTW love the way your press is set up, you do good work.

Creekwalker

Swagerman
01-04-2008, 08:05 PM
Creekwalker, there are no hard fast rules to bullet swaging, I merely do these bump bullets to some times obtain a certain weight...like the ultra lite 164 grain bullet for .44 special work.

Far as I know, there isn't any commercial availability that lite in a .44 caliber bullet...then what I don't know could fill lake Superior.

If you use smaller weight than 160 to 165 grain in .44 caliber, you are going to be shooting a POI (point of impact) a lot lower than your point of aim.

I once did some experimenting with .45 Colt caliber using 145 grain bullets which were real tiny pills. But I made them deep hollow base by swaging and round nose if I remember right.

The firearm was a nice old 2nd model S&W that had been converted from its original .455 to .45 Colt.

This gun had to be pointed at the top of the target about 7 to 8 inches above the POI...but it grouped very nice as my picture shows.

The reason bullets too lite shoot like that is the fact the guns recoil is drastically altered by the bullet leaving the barrel too quickly. Sounds screwier, but check it out and become a believer.

Jim
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/P42600282ndmodel761X.jpg



http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/rtptargetwithfulltext.jpg

garandsrus
01-04-2008, 09:43 PM
Swagerman,

Pretty cool... Where did you get the top punch from?

John

Swagerman
01-04-2008, 11:10 PM
That is a Herter's shell-holder, with a flat top punch shaft going through the shell-holder primer hole, its threaded on that end and secured with a nut.

My Lee Classic press has the automatic bullet ejector mounted on it, and the bottom flat base portion is made to insert the Herter's shell-holders with different shape nose punches.

It occured to me, you may be asking about the ejector stem in the swaging die, it is a moving stem that is SWC. I made it on my mini-lathe. The rising ejector stem in the swaging die body is what the bullet pushes against as you ram the bullet up into the die. My ejector apparatus pushes the stem back down and ejects the bullet after being swaged.

One of the few things I can master on the small lathe...I'm no machinest, my work is pretty crude at times.

I have three Lee shell-holders for it, they screw on and off and easy to change out.

There are a lot of my pictures posted on other threads in this swaging section, they show more of the shell-holder capabilities.

Jim



http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/P2280024punchescropped.jpg

Buckshot
01-05-2008, 03:12 PM
Still learning here so bear with me a bit. As I understand it you take a sutible cast/swaged bullet then reswage it to another diameter and configuration in the bump process. I can understand this and see where it could be a simpler way to get the desired bullet. Where I begin to get confused though is why not swage the correct sized bullet to begin with. Is it due to the lack of avalibility of such swage die's or their cost? Sorry to appear so igonarant, but just don't get it yet. BTW love the way your press is set up, you do good work.

Creekwalker

................Issue here is that you cannot swage a lump of lead into a boolit with lube grooves in a simple swage die. Well, technicly you COULD, but you'd have to melt it to get it out, which rather defeats the purpose :-) FLoodgate put up some lovely photo's of a die setup to actually swage a lube grooved boolit.

Since liquids aren't compressable, you make a swage die (Or bump die, if you will) that takes a lubed boolit and modifies it's shape under pressure, with the lube in the grooves remaining.

http://www.fototime.com/86928C1813B4A70/standard.jpg

This is such a die. In goes your 148gr WC and what you get out is the same slug but in this case it has a hollow base now (see plunger).

http://www.fototime.com/F6696E3245BE49B/standard.jpg

The same die will take any lubed boolit design and turn it into a FN or a FN with a HB depending on the base plunger installed.

A) A regular 148gr WC with a HB added.
B) A Lee 358-158 RF which is now a FNHB
C) A Lyman 358430 which is a 200 gr RN and is now a FNHB

In addition the die bumps them to .363" for use in a 38 S&W. Slugs B&C were cast from WW alloy so it's not limited to pure lead.

.................Buckshot

GLL
01-05-2008, 03:54 PM
Jim:

BEAUTIFUL 2nd Model S&W in .45Colt ! :) :)

Jerry

Swagerman
01-05-2008, 05:27 PM
Thank you for the compliment, GLL, on my old 2nd model. One of my faves for sure.

(Deleted part of the original paragraphs, as per usual I mis-understood Ricks comments)

Man, I'll sure be glad when this stinking cold and snow goes aawaay, getting cabin fever.

Jim

garandsrus
01-05-2008, 09:34 PM
Swagerman,

I think that Rick is saying that you can't add lube grooves through swaging since you would not be able to eject the boolit... They need to already be there in the "donor" boolit, and be full of lube, if you want them to be there after swaging.

John

GLL
01-06-2008, 01:41 AM
Buckshot:

What would I need to bump a Lyman 358430 195 gr. RN into a FN similar to your "C" in the photo?
I am not familiar with the 358490.

I have a Rockchucker I could dedicate to the operation.

I considered having a mould cut but this might be more cost effective and fun to experiment with. I have never done any swaging before.

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/EEE7141DE460476/standard.jpg

Buckshot
01-06-2008, 02:42 AM
http://www.fototime.com/7CA2B3C3EC5D49E/standard.jpg

............The above would be about the simplist answer. Up top is obviously the die body and it's threaded 7/8-14 for a regular reloading press. Below that and to the left is a nose form punch to create a 'button nosed' WC. To the right of it is a full SWC nose punch mounted on the ejector stem. The ejector stem goes up through the depth stop.

By screwing this up or down in the die decreases or increases the room inside the die that can form the boolit. Some is also available by screwing the die body up or down in he press. On the bottom is the base punch that goes into the press' ram. In this case it's to form a HB. Not as elegant as the system Swagerman uses, but to eject the boolit you tap the ejector rod down with a brass or lead hammer.

http://www.fototime.com/069CB1A7DC6AF34/standard.jpg

These above, were created in the die shown. The one weakness of a simple die like this is that there is no provision to bleed off lead. Once it's set you have to form the slugs by feel. It's not a terribly big deal because muscle memory is soon in play. Since the nose form punch is up against the depth stop, you won't accomplish much if the alloy is soft enough besides possibly extruding some past the nose or base plungers by laying on the press handle :-)

....................Buckshot

GLL
01-06-2008, 05:26 PM
Rick:

Thank you !

I send a PM with my other questions.

Jerry

Swagerman
01-07-2008, 10:50 AM
I would like to caution those who will be attempting bullet swaging for the first time, and what press will work best for them.

Well, to re-shape, or re-size bullet nose or base configuration, to make HB or HP, you will need to shorten the reloading press ram stroke...most any good sturdy press will work, but some have their limits as to the linkage base pin diameter strength.

For ease of bullet swaging operation the ram and its attached shell holder (nose punch) requires a swage release point in its upward stroke into the swaging die. (We are looking for a top-out break free point that can be adjusted by screwing the swaging die up or down in the press)

Otherwise you are ramming the bullet up into a swage die body and guessing on how much pressure is mentally needed to swage a bullet. Too much applied pressure and you've got a flat wad cutter, too little pressure and you don't get what you were hoping to make.

You can shorten the ram stroke by either cutting the rams linkage bar, or machine the ram on a lathe to make it shorter...or in my case with the Lee Classic press, you only have to shorten the shell holder which is a screw on or off affair. The Lee Classic press is an inexpensive device that is plenty strong to handle such work as we are talking about.

Though you could use a Rockchucker, but sometime back the RCBS rep told me over the phone he didn't recommend it...I have no idea why he said that, as I frankly disagree with it and think it could be made to work with a few alterations to its ram or linkage. Those reps probably don't know diddly about swaging.

All this is not real simple but requires some machinist work. You can either do it yourself or find someone who has the equipment and skills to do it...a local machine shop won't be cheap.

There is a tremendous amount of things you can do in bullet swaging, it is mucho fun to experiment, you just have to get your feet wet by wading into the deep end of the swaging pool.

Good luck and much success.

Jim

Lloyd Smale
01-07-2008, 12:21 PM
I did the same thing making little.41 swcs out of 38s by using a gas check but never thought to try allready lubed ones. I just swadged them and used tumble lube. They shot real well to until i screwed up my nose punch.

GLL
01-07-2008, 01:08 PM
Jim:

Thank you for the additional information.

Perhaps I will just buy a LEE Classic to experiment and keep my Rockchucker set up for sizing stuff.

Once I get started I will PM you about the details for the conversion. I have a lathe and access to a full macine shop to do simple machining but I am a geologist not a machinist ! I am very good at smashing things with a 15 pound sledge hammer but not at precision machining ! :) :)

Jerry

Swagerman
01-07-2008, 01:43 PM
Jerry, be assured I'm not trying to talk you out of using the RCBS RC, but the Lee is better suited to do all the things I've described.

The Lee Classic (single stage) is also better to convert the ram shell holder to take the Herter's shell holders which can accept my nose and base punch stems with the nuts fastened on them.

I once had a C-H Jr. Champion press, they don't make them anymore, it was comparable to the RC in strength, but the linkage pin broke on me from about 700 swaged bullets.

Then I tried it with a brand new Lyman Orange Crusher press, the linkage pins kept bending and breaking, went through two of them and had a third pin but gave up and sent the press back to Midsouth.

I'll be glad to help in any way I can, but best take it to email.

Jim

yeahbub
01-07-2008, 03:29 PM
Swagerman, I was reading what you said about the need to modify a press to successfully swage bullets. I was wondering if this becomes necessary because the dies may not posess sufficient thread length or adjustment range? I use C-H 4D dies in several calibers and have never had to modify a press and most of my shooting consists of cast/sized/lubed boolits which are then swaged to get the desired nose/heel shape, using hollow and flat-base heel punches. I had used a Hornady 007 press (the old heavily cast aluminum one) and the Lee Classic and plan to get a Redding UltraMag due to the location of the linkage points which make for a more rigid design stressing only the portion of the press that the dies screw into. My usual method is to set the dies to have the boolit all but completely swaged as the stroke approaches top dead center (TDC) where ram pressure is at maximum allowing for minor variations in boolit volume in the die. Any that are oversize are readily apparent in the resistance to further ram movement and can be ejected and set aside for a later die adjustment to handle the heavy ones. The Lee Classic has a stop on the linkage to prevent achieving TDC, which simplifies some swaging tasks and protects the press from those who use the "bigger hammer" approach, since the gold anodized linkage parts are crucible particle steel rather than more expensive machined pieces.

Swagerman
01-07-2008, 04:55 PM
Swagerman, I was reading what you said about the need to modify a press to successfully swage bullets. I was wondering if this becomes necessary because the dies may not possess sufficient thread length or adjustment range? I use C-H 4D dies in several calibers and have never had to modify a press and most of my shooting consists of cast/sized/lubed boolits which are then swaged to get the desired nose/heel shape, using hollow and flat-base heel punches. I had used a Hornady 007 press (the old heavily cast aluminum one) and the Lee Classic and plan to get a Redding UltraMag due to the location of the linkage points which make for a more rigid design stressing only the portion of the press that the dies screw into. My usual method is to set the dies to have the boolit all but completely swaged as the stroke approaches top dead center (TDC) where ram pressure is at maximum allowing for minor variations in boolit volume in the die. Any that are oversize are readily apparent in the resistance to further ram movement and can be ejected and set aside for a later die adjustment to handle the heavy ones. The Lee Classic has a stop on the linkage to prevent achieving TDC, which simplifies some swaging tasks and protects the press from those who use the "bigger hammer" approach, since the gold anodized linkage parts are crucible particle steel rather than more expensive machined pieces.

================================================== ===

Answer:

It may have been the height of the ram travel more so than the die adjustment, some press rams are just built too darn long.

Anyway, I started out using Hornady 07 press, C-H Jr. Champ, tried the Lyman piece of junk with it wobbly linkage system, then begin the Odyssey of Herter's presses...the No. 3, and the Super O Maximum press. Only the Herter presses seem to be workable at that point. They both had 1/2 inch diameter linkage pins, whereas the other one's I mentioned were only 3/8 diameter.

Ram height was to much all of them except the Herter's Maximum, it has a two position linkage adjustment. The No. 3 model had to have its linkage bar shorten 1/2 inch then attached to the ram again.

I'm not kidding about this TDC being critical to good bullet swaging...it is.

Referring to the Lee Classic as second rate metal is not going to wash with me, mine has far surpassed a lot of use in the last 2 to 3 years. If it were going to break it would have done it by now.

Some of those other presses I first mentioned went belly up on me after only a few hundred rounds were done...linkage pins broke as there was too much stress being applied in swaging.

Maybe its because I do use the ram height shorten modifications to reduce pressure stress when achieving TDC position. Anyway, its working for me.

The Redding press sounds like a good one to use.

Jim

yeahbub
01-07-2008, 05:57 PM
Hmmm. I didn't intend to give the impression that I thought the Lee Classis is somehow less-than. I've been using it with glee for a year or so for loading and swaging. I did have a linkage fracture, which really surprised the folks at Lee (and me). After some examination and discussion among my peers, it's believed to be due to some contamination in the particle steel prior to manufacture, but Lee sent replacements and all has been well for the last 1000 boolits or so. I consider that to be a sufficient test of the durability of the Classic and expect no further difficulty. As a former machinist and die maker, I can attest to the appropriateness of CPS parts for a number of applications. It's one of the reasons we get such a nice press for the price we do.

yeahbub
01-07-2008, 06:22 PM
GLL, your intention to modify the Lyman 358430 is an excellent idea and is what more than half of my swaging activities consist of. You have an excellent casting to start with, which will require nothing more than sizing/lubing to fill the grooves to prevent them from being swaged shut, and a die with the desired ogive and meplat diameter. C-H 4D will build a die with the ogive built into the top of the die and the meplat will match the ejector pin diameter, of which they use several standard diameters. I've also had them make a "gas check heel punch" to swage a gas check shank on a flat/bevel base design, so gas checks are an option as well. Mine is very similar to the Lee 358-158-RF in ogive and meplat, so that's the one I start with. The added advantage to swaging them is that they're all functionally identical, having come from the same die. And it's fun. . . . .

Swagerman
01-07-2008, 06:37 PM
Wish you had taken some pictures of that failure, such things need to be made a record of fact...in case someone else has trouble. But glad ole Lee came through with the sterling character they usually show its customers.

When I first converted the Lee Classic press to duty swaging, I was thinking maybe this won't work because the two linkage side bars have cones extending into the bottom of the ram piston on both sides...I was thinking maybe the cones might give out from swaging stresses???

Well, happy to say it never happen, nor did the cones show any signs of wear.

Besides, I had a backup plan for the cones in case they did fail...it was to remove them and run a big a$$ bolt through their slots all the way through the ram piston and the off-side of the linkage bar.

Glad we both like Lee Classic single stage presses.


Yeahbub, did you know you can attach a gas check to any none GC lead bullet, whether or not it has smaller shank. One can even increase a bullet's weight by four or five grains, even if they are plated or copper jacket.

All you need is a swaging die like C-H makes that has an ogive round top in side. You place the bullet upside down on the ram's flat punch, then gently ram it up into the die body until you feel it touching the ogive curve. It doesn't require a lot of pressure, then back the bullet back down out of the die. There will be a slight ogive taper to the bullets base, it can then be seated in good Hornady gas check, or other brand, then set it right side up back on the flat base punch to swaged it into the swaging die nose shape die of your choice.

All this is shown on another thread in the Swaging Bullets section...just have to look for it. Please give it a try and see if you like it.


Jim

Bent Ramrod
01-08-2008, 12:15 AM
If you don't wish to modify the ram on your compound-linkage reloading press, an extension can be made (for the RCBS at least) that is threaded 7/8" x 14 on the inside and 1-1/4" x 12 on the outside so it screws into the die adaptor hole on top of the press. Here's a picture of mine below.

The point, as Swagerman says, is to adjust the die so the maximum protrusion of punch into die can be made at the absolute top dead center of the ram travel. This not only serves as an automatic stop adjustment for the ram, but also gives the advantage of the maximum leverage, which happens at the end of the stroke. The relative ease with which, for instance, you can iron the rims off .22 shells to turn them into jackets with the extension in place versus without it is the equivalent of 2-1/2 times the production of jackets before your arm needs a rest.

Buckshot
01-08-2008, 04:03 AM
..............Swagerman, I used the RCBS Rockchucker unmodified to do the swaging shown in my post# 11, and these were cast of at least WW alloy. By adjusting the die and/or the stop assembly ( as yeahbub also mentioned) you can achieve the 100% swage at the top of the ram's travel.

I'm sure my method is similar to what you must use without having the ability to bleed off lead. That is to run the doner slug up into the die, then run the die down until swaging begins. Continuing the downward adjustment you will reach a point where lead is no longer readily flowing to relieve the plunger's pressure.

At that point I eject the slug to check it's appearance. If it's satisfactory the die adjustment is complete and I can commence. Also I mentioned muscle memory. Just as a musician can play a tune while holding a conversation with someone, they're relying on a form of muscle memory. As your hand can touch your nose, mouth or eye in a blacked out room, you'll learn pretty quickly when the slug comes up solid in the die, vs really horsing down on the handle for that last little bit (which is probably the press and linkage yeilding :-))

In addition to the dieset in post #11, I also made one to duplicate the old British 45 cal 'Manstopper' lead boolit. This not only has a substantial HP but an equally large HB and it was to be used in a regular reloading press with compound linkage.

...............Buckshot

Swagerman
01-08-2008, 09:27 AM
I have never worked with a Rockchucker press in swaging, but it looks like your swaging die may have to be mounted pretty high up on its 7/8X14 threads if the ram is not modified...similar to Bent Ramrod's configuration in his photos.

It is better for me to be able to work the die down lower down into the press, especially with the liter weight and shorter bullets...the nose punches can be made longer, or shorter depending on the requirements. With the lower mounted die I can see the bullet placement better.

The important thing is to be able adjust the die to handle the TDC sweet spot.

There may very well be some presses out there that can handle swaging in an unmodified state, but you still have to deal with stress pressure on the linkage pin, it would profit you to use one that has a heavy duty linkage pin...1/2 diameter is just about right. 3/8 pins don't hold up very well...just from my experience.


Jim

yeahbub
01-08-2008, 12:00 PM
Swagerman,

That linkage fracture was a result of shear stress at the 1/2" dia. studs where they enter the ram. I routinely swaged over TDC on my Hornady 007 and the linkage pins are 3/8 or smaller, so it was a real mystery how 1/2" studs would shear so cleanly and during a light operation after several months of full tilt swaging. The folks at Lee were taken aback at this, and after some discussion with them and the metallurgical people here at work, we came to the conclusion that the simplest and most likely answer was contamination (solvent?) of the material while still porous, prior to the furnace phase of manufacture. Without metallurgical analysis, it's difficult to know, but Lee isn't known for wimpy tool design and the replacements have stood up well. You mention the idea of running a bolt through them and continuing. I was going to reproduce them in half hard 4140 and use press-fit hardened pins to have a no-fail arrangement, but couldn't come up with a handle attachment with the range of the original parts. Anyway, the replacement parts from Lee are doing just fine and my plan would have made for unnecessary work and delay.

Regarding putting gas checks on flat and bevel-base boolits, that's an excellent idea. I too use the swage-some-ogive-on-the-heel technique and discovered that it works best when enough ogive was there to allow for a bit of wiggle when the gas check was put in place. It seems to reduce the downward thrust on the wall of the check as the lead fills it from the center out. When I made them a perfect fit and the check would press on with finger-pressure, I got occasional copper flash around the heel. I also discovered that boolits with a narrow driving band between the heel and the first lube groove would sometimes leak some lube downward and create a second "kind of" lube grove just forward of of the check. This doesn't seem to affect their accuracy but since I often start with commercial cast that have been beaten up in transit, I try to be careful to keep boolit bases clean and prevent lube from flowing into the not-yet-filled irregular spaces between check and lead, lest it be unbalanced when it leaves the barrel. I have since had C-H make a gas check shank heel punch which is deeper and has greater wall thickness than a check. It works great and will not collapse the heel band into the first lube groove when the groove is full of lube. Bullet alloy is displaced rearward into the heel punch cavity, forming the shank and the lube grooves/driving bands are left unaffected - as long as the donor boolit is withing a couple of thousandths of the die diameter. I haven't found that link you mentioned, but I'm always open to good ideas. Would you post it if you run across it?

There's another cool but laborious trick that makes some really pretty bullets that produces an exposed-lead softpoint/hollowpoint from a plated bullet (without splitting the plating). In .44 cal, I start with a 300gr Berry's .430 cal truncated cone FP, gently stroking the heel with a fine-cut file, turning it a bit between strokes to keep things even until the copper is removed. Insert it heel-first (backward) toward the nose of the die and swage to shape. As the sides are gathered into the ogive, the core lead will flow forward and create an exposed lead feature - more pronounced with a hollowpointing ejector pin since even more lead will be displaced forward. If your gun likes plated bullets, it's a way to make them legal for hunting, since most states don't allow FMJ's. I haven't tested them for expansion.

By the way, what do you use for swaging lube, if any? I found that if I lay the cast/sized/lubed (or plated) boolits in a pie pan, give them a very light pass with some pan spray coating (Pam or whatever's cheap, mmmm, garlic flavor!), shake them around to spread it all over them so it's almost undetectable by feel, and swage away. It really eases ejection and wipes off easily. . . . . It's a great case/resizing lube too, but wash with lye-based oven cleaner to remove all traces for dry, shiny cases.

TRX
09-01-2011, 09:22 AM
> muscle memory

You could make a positive stop for the ram, bearing in mind you're working near the point of maximum leverage.

firefly1957
09-05-2011, 06:16 PM
I made a new ram for a Lyman Orange crusher to use old pacific swaging dies it works very well and has enough force to swage Speer 200gr .429 jacketed bullets into .452 bullets that shoot very well. I do not make a habit of of that but shot a few.
Somewhere in this forum someone explained that the reason that RCBS does not recommend swaging had to do with the shell holder slot that may be peaned and could become unusable.

robroy
11-24-2012, 02:52 PM
It's odd that RCBS doesn't recomend swaging with their press when the acronym stands for Rock Chuck Bullet Swage. Kinda makes me go hmmm.

runfiverun
11-26-2012, 12:46 AM
the slots will become peaned i have one now thats broken on one side from swaging with an old rcbs R/C press.
i'm gonna see if i can have it converted to a threaded ram.
or have a new ram made.
other than that it has held up to several thousand rounds of swaging.
and i can't even begin to count the number of rounds it reloaded before that.

ReloaderFred
11-26-2012, 01:55 AM
I called RCBS when I mashed the shell holder slot on my ram swaging bullets and they sent me a new ram, free of charge. In the meantime, I bought a used CSP-1, so the Rockchucker will go back to just loading ammunition.

Hope this helps.

Fred

BT Sniper
11-27-2012, 12:24 PM
RCBS still stands behind their products. I completly broke a older RCII press in two after severial thousand swaged bullets. Wasn't any abuse on this press like I have been known to do with others. I told RCBS the truth in a letter, that it had broke while swaging 40 cal bullets, a task I though it should have been able to handle. They sent me a replacement no questions asked. It was a "reconditioned" Supreme since they no longer made the RC II. The replacment press looked brand new. I was pleased.

Yep I recomend anyone to send in damaged or broken parts to RCBS.

Good shooting

BT

Walstr
12-22-2019, 03:08 PM
Greetings;
Is is practical to 'bump' a LEE 452-200-RF to .454ish to resize to .453 for my 1911, without a large swaging equipment? Anyone ever use a home made die & plunger/ram for use with a hammer?

mozeppa
12-22-2019, 04:14 PM
11 year old thread:groner: