lubesizer alignment bushing

[LongPoint]

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[leftiye]

You could make such a thing incorporated into the die securing ring, or better yet into a custom die. Lots of fun/cost either way. How about sizing in a Lee push through die, and lubing in an oversized Lyman die in the 450?

[Ben]

I'll side with leftiye, the Lee push thru ( nose 1st sizing ) is the way to go.

Then pick an H & I die .001 or .002 larger than your bullet and lube ( only ) with that die.

Ben

[Buckshot]

I understand what you guys are saying, I have Lee push through dies also, just trying to eliminate a step. I generally use the lee sizers if I tumble lube.
Thanks, LongPoint

..............Nothing wrong with your idea at all. Some boolits might need a longer nose punch.

..............Buckshot

[Lloyd Smale]

When i used the lyman sizers larger bullets would give me that problem. I found if i ran them through nose first without lubing the ran them through base first and lubed them the second time that it cured it.

[Antietamgw]

I've had enough trouble with off center sizing that I just make it a practice to run them through nose first and lube in the same die as a second step. A few of my rifles like the nose bumped slightly on 2 diameter bullets and I do this while sizing nose first. It's an extra step but doesn't really take that long. I tend to use flat nose punches for most everything and also use a long taper on most of my lube dies, which I make. A LEE 6 cavity 358158RF drops bullets that are a couple thou. over on the base band, almost like a fin. It was bought used and was battered a bit by a previous owner. I run them through nose first as well and they are very acceptable sized this way. The difference in accuracy shows plainly on paper, not as much when plinking.

[slughammer]

If I understand correctly the base is not being centered before it is trapped between the nose punch and the ejector stem. You are using a good fitting nose punch, but the base is going in off cneter. What you need is the boolit to contact the die and the ejector stem at exactly the same time.

Take the die out and clean all the lube out of it. Reassemble and place an unsized boolit on the top. Take note of how much the ejector stem is sticking out. Move ejector stem to bench grinder and remove the offending material. Sitting on the ejector stem keeps the boolit straight until the nose punch comes down, so don't take too much. Keep working at it until you have the boolit contacting the die and the ejector stem at exactly the same time.

Taking this "extra" material off will allow the boolit to center up before being trapped between the nose punch and ejector pin.

An added bonus is that you won't be fussing about centering the boolit and your production rate will go way up.

[slughammer]

... I've only been using this lubesizer I guess 20 or 22 years and forgot about the adjustment on the linkeage.
[sitting in corner with pointy hat on]

Ha! What is funny is I have a Lyman 450 and also a RCBS. Not sure if the 450 is adjustable, but I know I've looked at the threads on the RCBS but never thought about adjusting it.

Glad I tried to help, now we've both learned something today!

:drinks: