Is this gap too much?

[pretzelxx]

101708

It only looks about two thousandths of an inch, but I can see light through. Is that bad or will it work just fine? If not, how can I solve the problem? I'm smoothing the edges of the screws that hold the pins in the mould using stones. I know most peoples boolits have a line going down both sides, but I'm sort of a perfectionist and want to rule this out before it might be a problem.

[Sgtonory]

Looks new? I had same issue or its really a non issue. Just heat the thing up and everything will fit together. I had to tap it to close maybe the first 5 times or so to get it to break in.

[pretzelxx]

Brand new, cleaned with brake cleaner and that's it so far! She's warming up now over the pot... so excited!

[Sgtonory]

Run her hot and fast. That's they way my MP molds like to be treated.

[pretzelxx]

I got maybe 7 or 8 that had a set of wings from the gap, but I'm pretty sure that was my fault. It wasn't hot enough, but I was running it anyway to get a feel for it, then the brand new lee wood handle fell off the metal part. Into my quench bucket. Sad day, I'll RTV the handle on after it cools, I quickly pulled it out of the water so it didn't warp. My ACE 75 grain is dropping wrinkles so far, letting it heat up a touch more. So far, my knee hurts from having it bent and I'm starving cause I haven't eaten in 12 hours, I was too excited to start casting!

[pretzelxx]

After a few more pours, it doesn't seem like I'll be getting good boolits tonight, need to tighten the sprue plate on the ACE and need to put the handle back on the MP. overall extremely pleased with the lee pro 4 pot, the moulds and the ingots I made. I just might need a touch more tin back in the melt for a better fill!

[MtGun44]

A touch more tin is rarely an error.

Bill

[pretzelxx]

Just hotter moulds, got it. I'll need a hot plate!

[Catshooter]

The human eye can usually detect light shining through a gap of .001.

The vent lines Lyman/Ideal put in their moulds are about .005 in depth.

Try it and see!


Cat

[dkf]

The gap will get smaller as the pins wear in.

[pretzelxx]

Thanks guys, the ones that had wings were my fault, didn't fit the mould right back together. Glad I got a chance to start breaking them in finally. Tonight is another test trial!

[Grump]

Way too much gap as far as I am concerned. The only place I see light on mine is through the vertical vent lines. They are sort of the "spine" to which the horizontal vents on H&G moulds feed their air on the inside directions. The RCBS moulds have shallower vents and don't use the vertical component of the H&Gs, so I want to see NO LIGHT when I occasionally hold the closed moulds up to the light during casting sessions.

[pretzelxx]

It got pretty warmed up last night, not fully to temp, but it wasn't an issue when it had heat.

[mikeym1a]

I've gotten into the habit of 'tapping' the mold on the bottom and on the side after dropping the boolits, to make sure the sides line up properly. If you continue to get 'wings', and can't get it to cast properly, then contact the vendor where you got it, and if you send it back, include one of the 'winged' projectiles with it. Good luck with it! And, remember, if you get too hungry, don't do a second pot! Go Eat! While the second pot melts, that is............. mikey

[dkf]

I did not see it mentioned but.... Make sure you don't tighten the two small pins that hold the HP pin completely. Leave them loose about 1/8 of a turn. Doing so helps prevent binding and gaps.

[pretzelxx]

I'm fairly certain it's just be being a newbie, when I get my handles permanently attached to themselves, I'll be able to get back at casting and break the mould in. I believe it's just a matter of being so new and not enough experience to solve the not so problematic issue.

And the pins seem to work perfect, except the pentapoint wasn't hot enough. The nose wasn't filling perfect and they stuck only on that one. (Three flat nose one penta) I stoned down the ends of the screws that hold the pins in place so when tightened down they were flush and had no binding anywhere in their range of motion.

[silverado]

My 2 cav molds never looked like that but I picked up a 6 cav today and had the same problem.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/11/8e7a8yha.jpg
You can see where there is extra material from manufacturing. Take your fingernail and scrape it off. If you don't have that I don't know what else to add....

[silverado]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/11/hy6yteqy.jpg

[pretzelxx]

Nah, dont have any of that. I've gotten it to drop boolits fairly easily, rarely giving the wings again, but I'm certain still me learning how to handle the handles. Same issue with my other mould, the handles are a little loose in the hinge area. I'll bring home the tools and fix it up tomorrow night.

[jbelder]

Way too much gap as far as I am concerned. The only place I see light on mine is through the vertical vent lines. They are sort of the "spine" to which the horizontal vents on H&G moulds feed their air on the inside directions. The RCBS moulds have shallower vents and don't use the vertical component of the H&Gs, so I want to see NO LIGHT when I occasionally hold the closed moulds up to the light during casting sessions.

Exactly what I was thinking

[dkf]

My 2 cav molds never looked like that but I picked up a 6 cav today and had the same problem.
You can see where there is extra material from manufacturing. Take your fingernail and scrape it off. If you don't have that I don't know what else to add....

The HP pins were what is causing the gap in his mold. As it wears in it will go down to practically nothing.