The Official Steel Wool, Tung Oil, Bees Wax On a Buffer Stock Refinishing Thread.

[Just Duke]

The Official Steel Wool, Tung Oil, Bees Wax On a Buffer Stock Refinishing Thread.

In lieu of my relocation back to the Rain Forests of Starbuck Coffee I am going to have to abandon lacquer finishes on rifles and either go back to plastic (ICK!) or this process for stock finishing.
So here's the problem with lacquer finishes in the rain. Water gets under the edge of the finish and causes the wood to swell which then cracks the finish and eventually the finish lifts off.
Hopefully Wakasupi will join in and help out on this thread.

[leftiye]

Agree on the lacquer. I haven't had them lift off, but I have had them crack. Ya just gotta know lifting up is next coming down the road. I like the tung oil. I've gotten lazy and don't like waiting for BLO to fill the grain anymore. There's a BLO/beezwax military (with stain even) recipe out there (may be what you've already mentioned) that would be interesting over tung oil. I've got four stocks right now finishing up over tung with BLO.

[wch]

Duke, have you investigated any of the nautical oils and/or finishes available on the market?

[Just Duke]

Duke, have you investigated any of the nautical oils and/or finishes available on the market?

Yes and also read the MSDS compliant documentation also. Same stuff. ;)

[RickinTN]

Many years ago I had a friend tell me of a process he used before applying the finish to stocks. As I recall he would use marine spar varnish thinned to the consistency of water and saturate the complete stock, inletting and buttplate area included, with a paint brush and let cure before applying the final finish. He claimed this would seal all the pores of the wood and prevent it from taking on moisture. I've never lived in the "rain forest" environment, nor do I know if this process would be compatible with laquer finishes. Anyone ever give this a try and know how effective it is?
Just a thought,
Rick

[texassako]

Many years ago I had a friend tell me of a process he used before applying the finish to stocks. As I recall he would use marine spar varnish thinned to the consistency of water and saturate the complete stock, inletting and buttplate area included, with a paint brush and let cure before applying the final finish. He claimed this would seal all the pores of the wood and prevent it from taking on moisture. I've never lived in the "rain forest" environment, nor do I know if this process would be compatible with laquer finishes. Anyone ever give this a try and know how effective it is?
Just a thought,
Rick

I have used a blend of 1/3 each spar varnish, BLO, and mineral spirits. It is commonly known as a wiping varnish, and I use it on all my woodworking projects(including outdoor). Spar varnish is just to give a little UV protection. I have never had to test it in a rainy environment, but it does soak in, seal pores, and you can build it up however thick you want. I used it more for the ease of repair of a dinged stock than waterproofing since it can be fixed without a total refinish.

A buttstock on a Remington Model 8 I repaired a wrist crack on, about done because I like a satin finish:

101662

[Wayne Smith]

As far as I know only two wood finishes completely polymerize - Tung Oil and Walnut Oil. Spar Varnish is specifically formulated to stay a little flexible so it doesn't crack with a little wood movement. No wood finish is completely waterproof except an epoxy finish.

You might look into the Chinese tung oil varnish finish, it is done over weeks in a very damp environment. I do not know how this might work in the rain forest, but they have some very similar conditions in parts of China and thousands of years of practice.

[Doc Highwall]

I have just used Tung oil to finish stocks. the first coat goes on by hand and then I take a cutoff from an old leather belt to apply all the other coats and it does a very good job and saves the skin in my hand. When the finish is in the gummy stage the heat and force from using the leather forces the Tung oil into the open pours of the wood giving a very nice smooth finish.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have used a blend of 1/3 each spar varnish, BLO, and mineral spirits. It is commonly known as a wiping varnish, and I use it on all my woodworking projects.

while I am following this thread, I didn't expect to post anything, as I am mostly a Hack when it comes to wood working, BUT...

Long ago, an old timer told me how to protect wood on "outside" projects, like utility trailer beds or a Deck or small items like wheel barrow handles and such. Coat them with a 50-50 blend of BLO and MS. I doubt this is any secret to any of you, but maybe to a few, like me, that tend to read these threads and not post on them. What I like is how the wood turns a greyish-black as the wood ages a couple years. The roughcut Oak on my Deck was installed in the mid 90s and shows no signs of rot. I coat it every year with this recipe. Normally, untreated wood in the Minnesota outdoors lasts about 3 or 4 years...depending on variety of course. I have one trailer that has cheap, standard exterior plywood for the Bed...That wood was installed at least 20 years ago...while it shows lots of wear, the BLO-MS applied every other year has made stay functional.

this photo of the 1874 Gras has my roughcut Oak deck as the background.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/100_1296.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/100_1296.jpg.html)

[waksupi]

I did a lot of experimenting with various stock finishes. The sad result is, none of them are impervious to water. Some slow it down, but the only ones that come close are the butt ugly Weatherby type finish. I just got in the habit of putting on a heavy coat of Johnson Paste wax before going out in wet weather, being sure to fill the area between stock and metal. That is the area you need to be concerned about, as few take their rifles down that far to clean and dry after hunting. I leave a coating of the paste wax on the barrel and action when they are put in a stock.

[deerspy]

I am thinking about refishing a few old guns but know nothing, what is this BLO where due you by it?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Boiled Linseed Oil
get it at any Hardware store or Home improvement store.
ALSO, since this is old timey stuff,
If you have a county run household hazardous waste program, they will usually recycle usable Paint and thinners and household chemicals that are still usable. I have gotton many gallons of boiled linseed oil from them over the years.

[prsman23]

Boiled Linseed Oil. Just about any hardware store.

[deerspy]

Thanks I will get some BLO and try my hand at it.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The guy who did my Ithaca stocks recently used a polyurethane finish from Brownell's. It completely seals and yields a satin finish that looks like a hand rubbed oil finish.

I was impressed. I normally prefer an oil finish on guns however a proper oil finish takes literally weeks to apply. This polyurethane material took one afternoon! And looks just as good if not better.

This guy uses it on redo's of $50,000 shotguns so it can't be all bad.

I'll be posting pics of the completed gun here after it returns from Ithaca.

One thing you guys should know is that there are many different types of "Paint." Oil finishes are a type of paint, as are Shelac and Varnish. Oil finishes are more like varnish than shellac and polyurethane finishes are similar to varnish as well.

Different types of finishes produce different effects on wood and other substrates. The master artists of old used Egg Whites as binders for their pigments. Many survive today having lived for 500 years.

Point of all this is you should pick your finish based on the proposed use of the gun and the protection it will need. You should also note that NO gun manufacturer uses anything for a stock finish that takes more than 15 minutes to apply, unless you are talking custom level guns.

Randy

[Just Duke]

I did a lot of experimenting with various stock finishes. The sad result is, none of them are impervious to water. Some slow it down, but the only ones that come close are the butt ugly Weatherby type finish. I just got in the habit of putting on a heavy coat of Johnson Paste wax before going out in wet weather, being sure to fill the area between stock and metal. That is the area you need to be concerned about, as few take their rifles down that far to clean and dry after hunting. I leave a coating of the paste wax on the barrel and action when they are put in a stock.

Thanks for joining us sir. Perhaps you could share your process you used on Joni's rifle.

[rondog]

Thanks I will get some BLO and try my hand at it.

Be aware that BLO, tung oil, pure linseed oil, and some other wood finish products can be dangerous. If you have rags soaked with the finish, they need to be spread out to dry. If you take wet, oily rags like that, wad them up and throw them in the trash, they're quite likely to spontaneously combust and burst into flames!

[gnoahhh]

A finish I use on cherry projects is made of BLO and beeswax- about 50/50, melted together in a double boiler (crazy flammable/dangerous otherwise), and applied to the wood surface while hot. Makes for a nice mellow finish that buffs up nicely with a microfibre cloth or old soft t-shirt after curing overnight. Sand the cherry down to 600 grit minimum first.

While I occasionally use an oil finish on gunstocks, what I prefer is a straight spar varnish, many coats, sanded between coats, until pores are filled and beyond. Then I rub it out with either oil-free 0000 steel wool or rottenstone to de-gloss it, then wax with a quality paste wax. The result if properly done is a lustrous finish way up there on the water resistant chart that looks for all the world like an oil finish but which actually offers some protection for the wood.

I reserve oil finishes for guns that customers insist on, or for guns that won't see the rigors of the hunting fields.

[gnoahhh]

Be aware that BLO, tung oil, pure linseed oil, and some other wood finish products can be dangerous. If you have rags soaked with the finish, they need to be spread out to dry. If you take wet, oily rags like that, wad them up and throw them in the trash, they're quite likely to spontaneously combust and burst into flames!

Yep. There's the anecdotal case of a guy (a doctor in Massachusetts, I believe) who left a pile of oil soaked rags in his shop that spontaneously combusted and burned his house down and cost the lives of a couple of his kids.

[Just Duke]

. If you take wet, oily rags like that, wad them up and throw them in the trash, they're quite likely to spontaneously combust and burst into flames!
We learned this in first year shop class in Jr High. Good info though and thanks.

[bangerjim]

I have done antique wood refinishing for decades and have used MANY different paints and wood finishes/stains/coverings. I even had a 2 quarter engineering class on finishing technologies!

Tung oil and walnut oil soak into the wood and form a molecular bond with/in the wood. You still have the wood on the surface to see/touch. Creates an iridescent grain glow on highly figured species of woods. They do seal and unlike lacquer which only coats, will be somewhat moisture resistant. Wood objects from Ancient Egypt have been found finished with tung oil!

You must use a penetrating drying/polymerizing oil. Nitrocellulose lacquer is not a wise choice for wood exposed to heavy moisture. (White rings on furniture anyone??)Spar and BLO are other olde tyme finishes that have their use. There are some new polyurethane finishes out there that claim to be excellent, but I do not use them, as everything I do is like the "olde masters" used to use.

But any items I have refinished/reproduced, I have always used a drying oil you rub in and let sit for several days (!)......if it will be exposed to H20 (rain/dew/sweat/beer) in any quantities.

If not, shellacs and lacquers are the fast easy way to go! Check out Mohawk Finishing products for excellent items.

bangerjim

[rondog]

We learned this in first year shop class in Jr High. Good info though and thanks.

Me too, prob 1970. One of the things that stuck with me. Never seen it happen, but I've thought about trying it in a safe area. Sit back in the shade with a cigar and a beverage and wait for the show.

[Just Duke]

Me too, prob 1970. One of the things that stuck with me. Never seen it happen, but I've thought about trying it in a safe area. Sit back in the shade with a cigar and a beverage and wait for the show.

I saw an employer cook his dumpster after failing to heed my warning. But what do I know.
I put oily rags in a metal bucket with a lid filled with water.

[Just Duke]

So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.

[bangerjim]

So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.

If I was planning on eating off my stock, then I would use a food grade finish like above. HA....ha.

Most of my stuff is not for human consumption so I do not worry about tung oil.....which is NOT food grade safe.

I use beeswax for many finishing steps at the end. It is a great final coat over wood and other things. I use it on all my saw/jointer/shaper/sander tables to make them slide easy and eliminate rust.

You just can't beat Mother Nature!

banger

[CastingFool]

I have refinished a couple of stocks, and used a product called Linspeed. It was a mixture of linseed oil and something else. Both stocks turned out just fine. As far as I know, Linspeed is still available.

[Just Duke]

I have refinished a couple of stocks, and used a product called Linspeed. It was a mixture of linseed oil and something else. Both stocks turned out just fine. As far as I know, Linspeed is still available.

Probably Linseed Oil, Mineral Spirits and Carnuba Wax. We need a MSDS on the product.

[CastingFool]

Found a link to the site. They want to sell the company.

http://www.lin-speed.com/

[bangerjim]

Whatever it is, they must refine it from gold bullion...................$10/2oz? OMG!

banger

[shooter93]

I believe the finish WR is speaking of is called Gun Savr' and sold by Brownells. The pics I've posted that you had asked about Duke were all finished with that by either the Gun maker or myself. It is very good keeping out moisture but as Ric said....no finish is completely impervious. It's a Tung oil varnish combo. It comes as a liquid in a can and also spray cans. I use both. Cut the liquid by about 50% and keep coating the stock all day as it soaks in. I then spray and sand between coats for 4 to 6 coats and then rub it down. You can make it any sheen you want and you simply can't tell it from an old time oil finish and it's a much better finish. I can't even begin to imagine how many board feet of lumber or the number of gunstocks I've done using every finish imaginable and I like that finish for guns the best. For my furniture and cabinets I use oil based varnishes. You couldn't give me BLO for finishing anything.

[6bg6ga]

NOW YOU WENT AND DID IT DUKE!!!

I'm going to have to go out and buy a rifle just so I can finish the stock.

[CastingFool]

Whatever it is, they must refine it from gold bullion...................$10/2oz? OMG!

banger

Price has changed since I last purchased it, but it does go a long way. 2 oz would do a few stocks. If you refinish 5 stocks, that's only $2 per stock. Duracoat is listed for $34.95 a can, that does 4 firearms.

[waksupi]

Thanks for joining us sir. Perhaps you could share your process you used on Joni's rifle.

Coats of TrueOil and hand rubbing with 0000 steel wool, followed by a paper towel polish.

[leftiye]

So I'm the only one that finishes with bees wax after oil?
Check out the bowl making guys using bees wax.

Might be.... I always wax after getting the best BLO finish I can. Birchwood Casey's gunstock wax. I suspect it's a bzwx and solvent concoction. I in general don't Like Birchwood Casey's products, but I started with using this wax and am satisfied, and have a 30 year old bottle (glass) that I just keep adding fresh product to to keep it useable. It is dried out some, and I like it better thataway.

[jeepyj]

So after reading this post several times I'm wondering... I have a older Remington .22 rifle that the stock that looked like it has some sort of shiny type factory varnish on it but a few scratches through the finish. Overall fairly good condition. How should I prep to use the Spar/BLO/Mineral Spirits method that has been mentioned? Fully strip all the old finish off or prep with Scotch-Brite. In the end I would like the non gloss look. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Jeepyj

[bangerjim]

Price has changed since I last purchased it, but it does go a long way. 2 oz would do a few stocks. If you refinish 5 stocks, that's only $2 per stock. Duracoat is listed for $34.95 a can, that does 4 firearms.

That is VERY expensive considering what I spend on my finishes.....pennies. Try finishing a tabletop with that "gold bullion" stuff!!!!!!! Tabletops get far more abuse than a gun stock.

banger

[mikeym1a]

DukeNukem & all; Not trying to hijack the thread, but, I have an old Comblain rifle that was ill treated, and stored badly. Somewhere along the line, someone put varnish or some other finish on it. I used to be an upholsterer, and refinished furniture, so I can recognize the signs. I've used turpentine and 4'0' steel wool to gently buff the stock, and a LOT of dirt and grime came off. I'm not trying to strip it, as I want to preserve the cartouches. If anyone is interested, it's a Civil Guard rifle, and I hope to shoot it next week. But back to the stock. There is that 'new' finish layer on it, plus paint speckles, plus gummed finish and dirt on it. Once I get it clean, what should I put on it? I never had proper training when I was refinishing furniture, and while the customers liked my work, I was never satisfied with it. SO, after I get the buttstock and foreend clean, what should I put on it? I have tung oil, and I guess I could get other stuff. I just want the old girl to look good, without looking like 'bubba' worked on it. Thanks for any advice. mikey

[leftiye]

So after reading this post several times I'm wondering... I have a older Remington .22 rifle that the stock that looked like it has some sort of shiny type factory varnish on it but a few scratches through the finish. Overall fairly good condition. How should I prep to use the Spar/BLO/Mineral Spirits method that has been mentioned? Fully strip all the old finish off or prep with Scotch-Brite. In the end I would like the non gloss look. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Jeepyj

Just plain Tung oil will give you a very flat finish. If it is too flat, you can add BLO to taste. Note: all oil finishes will polish to a shine eventually just from handling. I've never sucessfully just roughened a varnish type finish, and refinished over it (not that I spent a lot of time trying).

[FrankG]

Cliff Noll I think was the longrifle smiths name , used to write for Buckskin Report in '80s. His final finish after several rubbed in and cured apps of BLO over several weeks was about 1/3 pint of BLO and a small hunk of beeswax .45 cal in dia. With this in a double boiler affair to melt wax , it was mixed while hot and applied hot . A little dab on stock and rubbed in with heel of hand . Just enough to get a sheen then set aside some place warm. Buff out with old denim and repeat until until all grain is smooth. Gives a nice warm luster an not a high gloss plastic mirror shine.

[TCLouis]

+10 0n what JonB in Glencoe said.

Nationwide I do not know how many gallons of "finishes" including BLO and mineral Spirits get poured up over a year, but a BUNCH!

[texassako]

So after reading this post several times I'm wondering... I have a older Remington .22 rifle that the stock that looked like it has some sort of shiny type factory varnish on it but a few scratches through the finish. Overall fairly good condition. How should I prep to use the Spar/BLO/Mineral Spirits method that has been mentioned? Fully strip all the old finish off or prep with Scotch-Brite. In the end I would like the non gloss look. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Jeepyj

You want bare wood when refinishing. Use a chemical stripper, not sandpaper. Steam out any dents with an iron and damp rag.

[bangerjim]

WELL..................if the wood as a rich patina from decades of use and exposure to usage, sanding it will remove all that and absolutely ruin the look.

If you are after factory new, then by all means sand the heck out of it!!!!! That ruins wood in my view. You only SAND NEW wood before applying the first coat of finish.

You want to dissolve the old finish if possible with 0000 steel wool and a solvent......you will have to experiment around to find the right one (acetone, alcohol, MEK, laq thinner, etc,). Each as it's place in wood refinishing. Sandpaper and Scotchbrites do NOT. The harshest abrasive I ever use is 00 steel wool.

Just sanding it off will not get all the grease, grime, oil, and crud out of the pores of the wood. Your new finish may fish-eye, bubble, and not coat properly.

Again, it is totally up to what YOU want it to look like.

banger

[Just Duke]

WELL..................if the wood as a rich patina from decades of use and exposure to usage, sanding it will remove all that and absolutely ruin the look.

If you are after factory new, then by all means sand the heck out of it!!!!! That ruins wood in my view. You only SAND NEW wood before applying the first coat of finish.

You want to dissolve the old finish if possible with 0000 steel wool and a solvent......you will have to experiment around to find the right one (acetone, alcohol, MEK, laq thinner, etc,). Each as it's place in wood refinishing. Sandpaper and Scotchbrites do NOT. The harshest abrasive I ever use is 00 steel wool.

Just sanding it off will not get all the grease, grime, oil, and crud out of the pores of the wood. Your new finish may fish-eye, bubble, and not coat properly.

Again, it is totally up to what YOU want it to look like.

banger

Yep what he said. Some nasty oil soak Garand and M-14 stocks I watch guys run them though the dish washer non dry cycle of course.

[nekshot]

Is the remington finishes the same glossy stuff as the weatherby. When wakisupi said of the weatherby finish being decent for weather(and I don't like those type finishes) I wondered if the remmies are the same ?

[jeepyj]

Alright now I'm catching on. I'm thinking I'll do some practicing on something that has no meaning to me with the stripping off the old finish. I've gathered up most everything that was mentioned above. I'll leave out the 60 grit :)
Thanks for the replies.
Jeepyj

[Just Duke]

I think this thread should be a sticky.

[Just Duke]

Is the remington finishes the same glossy stuff as the weatherby. When wakisupi said of the weatherby finish being decent for weather(and I don't like those type finishes) I wondered if the remmies are the same ?

The Remington stocks look dipped.

[jeepyj]

Okay so i've read and reread this thread. Listened and taken some of the advice from the more experienced. I went and retrieved a old pellet gun from the basement of camp that has a wooden stock. I commenced to stripping it with spray stripper and 00 steel wool, then went to 0000 steel wool and acetone the finished up with lacquer thinner. Next I put around 9 coats of tung oil with 0000 steel wool in between the last 4. Now I'm looking advice on the best way to finish it out such as hows the best way to hand rub it to a smooth luster. Here are a couple of photos.
jeepyj
102822102823

[Just Duke]

Okay so i've read and reread this thread. Listened and taken some of the advice from the more experienced. I went and retrieved a old pellet gun from the basement of camp that has a wooden stock. I commenced to stripping it with spray stripper and 00 steel wool, then went to 0000 steel wool and acetone the finished up with lacquer thinner. Next I put around 9 coats of tung oil with 0000 steel wool in between the last 4. Now I'm looking advice on the best way to finish it out such as hows the best way to hand rub it to a smooth luster. Here are a couple of photos.
jeepyj
102822102823

Well done sir. Bees wax on a buffing wheel

[jeepyj]

Duke,
Thank you for the compliment. I truly think it looks better in person than the photos.
I'm having a bit of a hard time picturing the buffer are you referring to. Is it a buffer that one would use on a vehicle? Next question. Am I looking for a pure beeswax candle to use or is there another source i should be looking for?
Thanks again because of my second family at Cast Boolits I've accomplished something that I've struggled with in the past.
jeepyj

[Char-Gar]

First of all I have always lived in pretty arid places and tried not to hunt when it was raining. The few time I got caught flat footed, I slung the rifle muzzle down under the poncho I always carried and it faired well.

For well over 50 years I have been finishing my rifle stock with Tru-Oil. This can be taken to a high gloss or down to a dull finish with steel wool. I apply liberal coats of it to the barrel channel, action mortise, and under the butt plate taking particular attention to treat the end grain well. A coat of two of Johnson's Paste Wax finished out and when I go afield for more than a couple of hours, the stock gets a fresh coat.

If I lived in some wet place, this might not do, but it has served me well for many years and I have never had a wood stock take on water.

I have refinished many military stocks. I use a couple of scrub coats of BLO followed by as many coats of hand rubbed BLO as I want. When I am happy with the finish, I let it dry a couple of weeks and rub it lightly with 0000 steel wool and finish with a good wax.

If there is a trick to BLO finishing, it is to scrub or rub a coat on, let it sit a half hour and wipe off the excess with a paper shop towel (no kitchen paper towels please) and let dry before doing it again. Depending on the climate this will take one to three days between coats.

[Char-Gar]

WELL..................if the wood as a rich patina from decades of use and exposure to usage, sanding it will remove all that and absolutely ruin the look.

If you are after factory new, then by all means sand the heck out of it!!!!! That ruins wood in my view. You only SAND NEW wood before applying the first coat of finish.

You want to dissolve the old finish if possible with 0000 steel wool and a solvent......you will have to experiment around to find the right one (acetone, alcohol, MEK, laq thinner, etc,). Each as it's place in wood refinishing. Sandpaper and Scotchbrites do NOT. The harshest abrasive I ever use is 00 steel wool.

Just sanding it off will not get all the grease, grime, oil, and crud out of the pores of the wood. Your new finish may fish-eye, bubble, and not coat properly.

Again, it is totally up to what YOU want it to look like.

banger

Formby's Furniture Refinisher will dissolve varnish, shellac and lacquer finishes (including Tru-Oil and Lindspeed) PDQ. Just follow the directions. It won't remove oil however.

A short time back I bought a US 1917 that had been given a couple of coats of varnish. I used Formby's and found the original oil finish with sharp cartouches underneath in good condition. The varnish had protected the wood well. All it took was a couple of coats of wax to bring it back to life.

Formby's also makes a finish remover for plastic finishes, but I have no experience with it. Here is a pic of the reborn 1917. It is a WWII San Antonio Arsenal rebuilt with a pristine Johnson Automatic barrel.

[Just Duke]

That's a nice rifle. I remember when they were $49.00 at Dave Cook Sporting Goods in Den CO.

[CastingFool]

I refinished the stock on an old N.R. Davis double barrel shotgun that originally belonged to my BIL's grandfather. He had bought it on shares with a buddy for the grand sum of $5. I sanded the old, dirty finish on the stock, and the grip was all dark, and you could tell the gun had been overlubed through the many years. I managed to get the oil stains out with alcohol. I dampened a cloth with alcohol and wiped down the stained area, then let it dry. I did that a number of times, each time the stock got lighter and I stopped when the overall look was pretty even.

[Changeling]

Well I learned the BLO methid many years ago from my shop teacher in HIgh School, he studied oil finishes of the old masters and was really interested in anyone wanting to learn his gunstock/furniture method. Be forwarned it is a SLOW method to do it right.

1. Remove old finish (lots of methods) dents (steam out), contour stock the way you want it, lightly sand complete stock till it has a good/great finish.
2. Wipe it down really well with Alcohol/rags it will dry pretty fast, wipe it down again till you feel sure any oil traces are gone!
3. Put the Boiled Liseed oil (best quality you can find/get, regardless of price) in a pint jar 50-50 with alcohol with a good screw top with a good seal, This is your working conainer, no use in opening and shuting the main container and contaminateing it with dirt whatever.
Put the jar in the sun till it's good and warm. Have your stock in it's work area ready to go for the warm BLO coating. DON'T try heating BLO on a stove!

Apply the coating heavily till dripping, hang by a wire/string/whatever from the ceiling over a can to catch the driping oil, this must be in a warm room. About 2 to 3 hours later do it again, the again, till the oil doesn't seem to be drying on the surface but staying wet all over. Then just let it hang trere for a week. This will get the maximum amount of oil into the stock.

4. When thoroughly dry, take down, sand till the finish is smooth, repeat the process and just add oil to spots that don't dry, let hang the same way for a week or two. Sand/steel wool down to fine surface, any gumming let hang another week (Remember warm room).
When you can finally steel wool it down to the surface with no gumming, hang again for a few days till completely dry, steel wool it down to the surface very smooth. Rub a little pure BLO on your hands and rub all over the surface NOT thick, do it like you were waxing the dining romm table (if it's wood). Then rub this all off with a soft rag. this was your surface sheen coat. I usually do this about 10 times are so, ONCE every day for ten or so days. If tou see any spots not getting completely dry, let dry for 2 or 3 days then continue till done. Then once a year or so will make it look like new.

NOTE: This is a very old and proven process that works it's best on quality wood like excellent walnut, difference is great wood has very small grain while run of the mill walnut has more open grain, simple as that. Good wood sucks up the finish very slowly, slow to dry. Regular walnut sucks it up fast, slower to dry.
If you try to rush the drying you will have a mess!

Please heed everyone that stressed the importance of handling the oilsoaked rags correctly, they weren't kidding!

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-14.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-14.jpg.html)
I finished this one by making up some oil of alkanhet,as follows,one cup of Raw Linseed Oil,Two Tablespoons of Turpentine,Whisker the stock using water and heat until no more whiskering,Apply the Alkanhet Oil,Then apply Terebin Driers on top of the oil,mix on the wood surface,allow to become tacky then wipe off excess leaving a small amount on the surface,When dry apply more Oil and Driers and with fine wet and dry paper sand the wet surface,wipe off leaving some on the surface,allow to dry now using the palm of your hand rub over the entire surface of your timber.Repete as many times you feel necessary.http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-14.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-14.jpg.html)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-15.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-15.jpg.html)
it has improved with constant palming.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-12.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-12.jpg.html)
View prior to finishing.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-8.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/001-8.jpg.html)

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/002-1.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/livebattery/media/002-1.jpg.html)

They always look bad at this stage.
P.S.I my description of the Alkanhet Oil mix I did not mention the main colouring agent Powdered Alkanhet Root,in that mix I put 3 tablespoons in.

[huntrick64]

I have only done a few gun stocks, but have finished several hundred bows carved from osage orange. One of the best (but definitely not traditional) finishes I have used is what we call the "Massey finish" because it was used by Jay Massey in Alaska. You mix some cheap epoxy (Devcon 2-ton) then cut it with acetone. I use one part of mixed epoxy to 5 parts acetone. It goes on like water, but only wipe it on once and let it cure. I let it go for 8 hours then lightly sand and do it again and again. 5 or 6 coats is one heck of a finish. You can keep the mixed up stuff in a baby food jar for about 2 weeks if you use the 2-ton stuff. Some people cut it with alcohol instead of acetone and then spray it on. I have never tried that. This finish is really good over oily tropical woods that tend to react with other finishes and turn gummy. This one will not do that. I control the luster with 0000 steel wool. For maintaining a consistent moisture content in a bow or gun stock, this finish is excellent. Get some scrap wood and give her a try, you will keep using it.