Graphite for Smooth Operation and Metering in Lee Pro Auto-Disc Question

[JesterGrin_1]

I did a search but really could not find anything on the subject. So I thought I would ask here. :)

I have a Lee Pro Auto Disc Measure and have read in a few places where running some Graphite through them will help them run smoother and meter more accurately. Is this True? As I have not had great luck with my Lee Pro Auto Disc as far as consistency.

I have also noticed that one can purchase Graphite in a Spray that one can coat something with it and in a short time the solvents will evaporate leaving a coating of Graphite behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqarHdON4Rg

I ask as I would like to use my Lee Pro Auto Disc measures but I have pretty much given up on them due to not trusting there consistency.

[tomme boy]

Leave it alone. Most powder has graphite on it. I have two of them and have never had a problem other than when the return spring came off and did not notice. Don't use the spray. Use a dry if you have to. But unless it gives you a problem, why bother.

[JesterGrin_1]

Leave it alone. Most powder has graphite on it. I have two of them and have never had a problem other than when the return spring came off and did not notice. Don't use the spray. Use a dry if you have to. But unless it gives you a problem, why bother.

Maybe after all I typed maybe I put the words down incorrectly.

I have Not had very good Metering Consistency with my Lee Pro Auto Disc so much so I will not use them and would like to change that. Right off the bat I found I had to flat give up on H-110 and W-296 as it leaks and powder charges are all over the map.

Thus asking about the addition of Graphite for Smoother and better metering consistency or to say more accurate powder throws.

It is not a huge problem as I do have an RCBS Uni-Flow as well as the RCBS Charge Master Combo. But to speed things up with Pistol loading it would be nice to be able to use the Lee Pro Auto Disc as that is what I spent the money on them to use them for.

[sparky45]

One of the fellows on this board has done extensive work with using graphite on the LLM's case slide, and powder measure. If I remember correctly he uses a #2 pencil and coats the sliding surface of the disks and their mating surfaces, and that's AFTER smoothing the disks with a fine wet/dry on a very flat surface. I think the user name is Gunoil?

[44Vaquero]

You can adjust the clearance between the hopper and the disk by honing the supports on the body casting. Disassemble the measure and invert the casting on a flat surface using a piece of wet/dry sand paper. This adjusts the height the hopper is held above the disk. It is a trial and error method and you need to sneak up on the right fit. My disks do not leak and throw very consistent charges.

[geargnasher]

De-burr the edges of the hole in the bottom of the reservoir with a single burst of flame from a bbq lighter. Roll a Q-tip on a fresh dryer sheet and wipe the insides of the disk holes and parts the powder passes through with it. Wipe the sliding surfaces with the dryer sheet. Blow off any loose flakes and reassemble.

Gear

[tomme boy]

Mine must fit well. They hardly leak any powder. They are very consistent too.

[oldfart1956]

Jester if you're still looking for powdered graphite check anywhere they make keys. Should be in little bitty tubes...WalMart has it. There are graphite sprays as well but watch some of the solvents they use in them. Might not play well with other plastic parts? And they may have oil in them...something you don't want. I use the Lee Pro and an updated Auto Drop for almost everything I load. Some powders just won't work or don't work well enough to be safe. The smaller the opening in the disc the finer the powder needs to be to fill it consistently. I love Unique, use it in almost every handgun and rifle load. Below a certain level (5 gr. for me) I have had bridging. Had to switch to Bullseye for those loads. TrailBoss was another problem powder. It's like trying to weigh chicken feathers. Doesn't have enough weight to it to fill the smaller discs. If you don't have a powder baffle in there Google up home made powder baffle. Download the pdf and make one up. I think it's Uncle Nicks Homemade Powder Baffle???? They can be made of almost anything, aluminum flashing, soda cans/bottles, plastic coffee cans, etc. I used a piece of galvanized stove pipe! :) If you're using the Lee powder-thru dies don't polish the expander too much! I know it "glitches" as it pulls out of the case....it's supposed to. That shakes loose any powder stuck between the measure and the case. I even wiggle the handle on the press as it glitches just to make sure it dropped. Hope something here might help. Audie...the Oldfart..

[JesterGrin_1]

I could not find the Spray Graphite Today at Low's but I did find the Dry Graphite in the little tube.

Gear And the others here Thank You for your information. I will probably take a little of everyone's advice and give it a try.

But I do have a question. As from what I gather the Lee Pro Auto Disc works best with Medium granular powder? As in Not the real fine powders such as H-110 And W-296 or the Extruded powders? But should work well with as mentioned the Medium granular powders and Ball Powders?

I wish there was a list of powders that the Lee Pro Auto Disc works well with and what powders to avoid. Or is there?

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Probably the best thing to do is to think of Lee measures as made for ball or spherical powders, but most of the powders you've mentioned should work well with the Lee. That said, if you are having consistency issues, the first thing to do, BEFORE you do anything else, is to tune the measure per the instructions the gentlemen above have provided. The second thing to do is to dust the measure up with the tube of powdered graphite you got from the walmart key section.

Another key is which method are you using, the micro disk, the standard disk or the charge bar? Try each of these as well.

Finally, the Lee, like all powder measures, is a volume measure. Oddly enough, gun powder works well being measured volumetrically. So don't drive yourself crazy with your weights unless they are hugely off. Let your test firing groups tell you if your cartridges are good to go or not. Tight groups usually indicate consistent ignition/velocities/complete powder burn/good bullet diameter to bore match, all that kinda jazz.

[geargnasher]

My Pro Autodisks don't leak much at all, even with Titegroup and other tiny flake powders. Make sure the hopper is fitting all the way down against the disk and the thumbnuts are snug.

Gear