NOE Hollowpoint mold ?

[brown bass hunter]

I have been on the NOE website dreaming of spending a few $'s on a new toy. I am interested in the 40/45 cal molds with the hollow point pins and flat nose pins. My question is " how difficult is it to deal with the pins each time you knock out your cast boolits?" This may be a silly questions, but I like to weigh out my options. Any input/experience would be appreciated.

[stillkickn]

I have an NOE hp mold in .357 and love it. Keep it HOT. Once I get the temp right and a good rhythm the boolits fall just fine.

[ShooterAZ]

The pins "swing" the boolits out of the block, and they just fall off. The only thing is, you REALLY need to get the mold up to temp first. I preheat the mold upside down on a hotplate. Once it's good & hot, it casts perfect boolits. I have the NOE .453 large HP mold. Use a relatively soft alloy, size to .452, use a good lube.

[SWANEEDB]

It's quite a learning curve but when you get it you'll really enjoy, I have 4 of the NOE HP molds, all like a real hot pour, do what Al says about breaking in and just do it again, you'll not be sorry if you intend to buy one.

[chsparkman]

I have found them to be a pain to get going. The mold usually reaches the correct temperature before the pins, so be patient. Also try not to spill lead over the side as it can get stuck where the pin carriers protrude. Open the mold and lightly tap on the carrier and the boolits should drop right out when you turn the mould upside down. It takes a few trials to get things going right and to create a usable rhythm, but once you do you can consistently crank out some nice HP's.

[canyon-ghost]

The same thing is true of single cavity hollowpoint molds, the pins have to be hot enough that lead doesn't stick to them.

[375RUGER]

Preheat your mould to 400*F or more and 1 or 2 pours is all that will be needed for boolits to drop freely, or with a light tap.
After boolits drop I shake the pins back into their half of the mould then gently close the mould.

[cainttype]

NOE HPs work very well. The flat pins will generally behave so well that they're a non-issue. The HP pins take a little more heat, but are a joy to work with when your cadence and temps are right.
Close your mould in the upright position because the pin's retaining groove design tolerances will allow them to seat slightly deeper if closed facing down, and consistency pays off.
Properly used, the NOEs will produce quality HPs at a rate difficult to imagine until you've seen one in action.

[Bigslug]

They do complicate the process somewhat. The bullets can stick to either the flat or HP pin requiring a little encouragement to drop off, you need to develop a technique for closing the mold to get the pins back in their channels (not hard), and I've noted a tendency for the flat nose pins to settle at different heights sometimes leaving a more or less flat point as intended, and sometimes with a slight cup point. Haven't diagnosed that last one yet.

Are they a huge PITA? No.

Are they more of a PITA than a solid cavity? Yes. Unquestionably. The difference is like that between a modern Camry or Accord with an automatic transmission that you just get in and drive, versus a vintage manual on which you have to pull levers, pump pedals, and shut off one thing before turning on another.

H.P.s are one of those things you'll have to dabble in and make up your own mind on as to whether or not they're worth the extra work and attention to detail. My own thought is currently leaning in this direction: hollowpoints are fine, but there is a time and a place for making a hella-lot of bullets, and an HP mold - even one with the solid pins in - is not going to produce like a simple, solid cavity number. Plan accordingly.

[brown bass hunter]

Thanks for all the experience guys! That is what I needed to hear. Patience and casting experience go a long ways as with any mold. Now if I can decide which mold I need the most. Thanks again.

[Boolseye]

I'm a firm believer in the hardwood stick for all my casting, especially HPs. I use a hefty hardwood whacker to smack the mold handle bolt when I need to release the boolits. My NOE RG4 likes to run hot, too.

[Beagle333]

Spin the pins (with your fingers) while gripping the tips in some 800 grit paper til they're mirror smooth, then reinstall. Then just wipe only the tips of them very lightly with a Qtip slightly dampened with sprue lube, about once every 50 drops and the boolits will jump off if the temp is right. :grin:
I love my RG4s, but they definitely have their own personalities that must be learned.

[glockky]

I only have a couple HP molds but have found NOE's pin system to be the easiest to mess with. I have a Mihec 45-70 mold that I have to fight with. The noe 452-230 after being preheated on my hot plate starts throwing good bullets within the first couple pours.

[NVScouter]

Like was said its a learning curve for my 4 gang mold. Al showed me since I wasnt getting it.

1)Preheat twice as long as a LEE mold.

2)Cast 2-3 fils and dump.

3)flip the mold upright close 95% and slightly tap the handle with your stick/mallet. This settle the pins.

4)Close the mold and cast.

Steps 1 and 3 are critical. #3 had me ticked since I was getting boolits with shallow or convex HP pin dimples.

[Boolseye]

The points NVScouter brings up are well taken. That certainly mirrors my approach with my RG4.
Like anything, it takes awhile to get the technique down, and there's just more going on with an HP mold. The NOEs are well conceived and will reward you for the time you put in. At this point, I can probably produce between three and four-hundred HPs in an hour with my NOE 358-135 RG4. That's more SD ammo than anyone needs.

[Blammer]

The points NVScouter brings up are well taken. That certainly mirrors my approach with my RG4.
Like anything, it takes awhile to get the technique down, and there's just more going on with an HP mold. The NOEs are well conceived and will reward you for the time you put in. At this point, I can probably produce between three and four-hundred HPs in an hour with my NOE 358-135 RG4. That's more SD ammo than anyone needs.

BUT that's not enough water jug blasting boolits!

[SciFiJim]

One of the things that I have learned with the RG molds is to go slower.

I am a big proponent of cutting the sprue with the my gloved thumb. When I tried this with the RG molds I found that the HP tips were ripping when I went to dump the mold.

With an RG mold, I have to wait longer for the boolit tips to solidify enough to not rip.

This is long enough that I can't cut the sprue with my thumb and have to whack the sprue plate with my knocker to cut the sprue.

So, instead of casting hot and fast, I found I have to slow down some.

[Maximumbob54]

Don't figure there's a need to start a new thread about the same thing but I have a different issue.

My mold heats up just fine and they drop easy enough but my issue should be obvious:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150408_182839596_zpsk2orkwjx.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150408_182839596_zpsk2orkwjx.jpg.html)

I've dinked around with how tight the screw is at the base of the mold and tight holds the pins wrong and too loose seems to make it even worse. But I cannot find the sweet spot that holds the pins at just the right height.

Any tips???

[Yodogsandman]

Add more tin to your alloy to get good boolit fill out and maybe heat the mold a little bit hotter.

[220]

Boolit on the left looks like it was when you had loosened the retaining clips and the pins are sitting to low. Boolit on right looks like the pins weren't settled back into position and the centre the same but with poor fill out.
After dumping boolits turn the mold over and jiggle it so the pins settle back into their lowest position. If you close the mold straight after dumping with it still upside down the pins will be high and give the result on the right of the pic.

[Maximumbob54]

So the choice is either too low or too high???

There is slight discoloration in the lead that makes mold fill not look so good but the only poor fill is around the ring at the mouth. I can add tin to the mix to get a perfect ring and the one on the left I think was when I ran the lead hottest but I'm trying to eliminate the ring. Is this just not going to happen???

[Handloader109]

Boolit on the left looks like it was when you had loosened the retaining clips and the pins are sitting to low. Boolit on right looks like the pins weren't settled back into position and the centre the same but with poor fill out.
After dumping boolits turn the mold over and jiggle it so the pins settle back into their lowest position. If you close the mold straight after dumping with it still upside down the pins will be high and give the result on the right of the pic.

Hmmmm, been struggling with my 9mm HP mold. Similar results. I haven't been able to figure it out... Till Now... Thanks I'll try soon, also, it does need to be HOT, and I think I need a bit more tin to help fill. Thanks

[cainttype]

As mentioned earlier, the pins will settle at different heights if the mould is closed upright compared to inverted. The clearance cut on the pin that allows the pin to swing free is the reason.
All the NOE HPs I've seen are adjusted to be closed in the upright position as they come new. Adjusting the pin's races is not a big deal if you need too, but I haven't found it necessary as long as long I pay attention to seating the pins with the mould upright.
Proper preheating and attention to the way you close the mould (seat the pins) will cure all the issues that are mould-related. Temps, alloy, and cadence are controlled by the caster.

[220]

So the choice is either too low or too high???

Short answer no.

The pins need to be able to float and have some vertical and horizontal movement to allow the boolits to drop free of the mould.
All of mine have come from NOE adjusted so that the pin height is correct when they are sitting as low as they can.

Take your mould half that has the retailing clips and HP pins attached tilt it slightly away from you so the pins are sitting in the mould retaining clips to the ground, the small flat on the HP pin should be flush with the nose of the projectile. If you gently push on the base of the pin you will see it can rise. My guess is you are closing the mould with the pins not seated in the lowest position.
Once the mould is closed the pins cant move if there was enough clearance for them to move freely then you would get flashing around the pin.
Might also be worth putting a bit of sprue plate lube on the retaining clips and pins to help them move a little easier.

[Maximumbob54]

Let me be sure I'm clear on this before I cast a pile more of miserable failure. Do I need to ease the mold closed sprue plate up for the pins to set right? Just how tight should the screw in the base be? I set them tight and then back them off just a bit so the pins have just enough wobble to move away from the side of the mold. Is this right?

[LenH]

Beagle333 helped me out a bunch when I got my HP mold from NOE. I cheated a bit though I polished the end of the pins with 1000 grit sand paper but
I spun the pins in a cordless drill. I also smoked the end of the pins. You do have to run the mold hot but after several tries I finally got great boolits and piles of them.
There is a learning curve and patients is required.

[Virginia John]

It is all about the heat. The pins need to be hot and running your mix a little hotter than usual also helps.

[SSGOldfart]

The pins "swing" the boolits out of the block, and they just fall off. The only thing is, you REALLY need to get the mold up to temp first. I preheat the mold upside down on a hotplate. Once it's good & hot, it casts perfect boolits. I have the NOE .453 large HP mold. Use a relatively soft alloy, size to .452, use a good lube.
my fall better from a HP NOE then many of my LEE molds

[cainttype]

The screws attaching the races to the mould blocks should be snug, no play in the races. If loose enough for the race to move, I'd expect to eventually see damage at the pin holes from misalignments while closing.
Open your mould. With sprue plate up, see if your pins are positioned properly in the cavities. If so, you only need to close your mould while it is in the upright position.
If the above is correct, inverting the open mould will allow the pins to seat slightly deeper in the cavity (view the open mould with spue-plate in both positions and you WILL see the difference). The difference is equal to the clearance cut into the pins that allows them to swing out on their races. Races CAN be adjusted if needed (go to NOE's forum for illustrated instructions).
Once you find the right position, you should snug your races so they do not move. That will allow your pins to fall back into place properly aligned with their cut-out.
Everything else is temp, alloy, cadence, and technique. On some moulds, you may find that a slight tapping before/during opening can make a huge difference...try it. :)

[SwedeNelson]

Never operate with the brackets screws loose.
You can and will damage the blocks, the brackets need to center the pins in there opening.

See our instructions on how to adjust the elevation of the pins here:
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=199.0
And always settle the pins down on the brackets before closing.

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[Maximumbob54]

That's the info I needed right there. I'll go home and beat myself for not just asking the source directly. I bet tonight I finally cast some good ones.

TBC...

[Maximumbob54]

Followed the directions from the man himself and wouldn't you know it this is now the "worst" I have:

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150409_161727188_zpsvjbgbirj.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150409_161727188_zpsvjbgbirj.jpg.html)

I'm now very pleased. The races are tight and the pins are allowed to settle down in the mold before closing the blocks. I cast this run with the same lead as before but at 800 and poof they are good. This one still has a slight lip around the opening but again this is among the worst of them. Happy, happy, joy, joy!!!

[Boolit_Head]

Hmmm good info. I was not tapping on mine before I closed it either but I was not getting bad results. I'll have to go try some with some tapping before I close it.

[Moonie]

I was having some issues with the 350gr .454 RG2. This will help but I think most of it is that I've just started using a PID and need to get the temp dialed in. I'm thinking 750F is too cool for this mold with straight WW (from the '80's). I was having issues with pins not wanting to slide out and boolits sticking to the pins. I've got a Mihec HP (452 200gr HP) I use some so I'm familiar with casting HP's, as I said, just learning to cast with the PID.

[Maximumbob54]

With a cavity that large to fill you are going to need one seriously hot mold, hot lead, and fill it fast. Those mold pins seem to cool off way too fast so that won't help you any. A higher than usual tin content may help as well. My issue was purely related to not knowing how to use the mold. The link provided above showed how to just slightly bend the races which is what I did to free up the pins just a bit more. And finding out that I need to allow the pins to settle to the bottom of the mold block finished the deal. Good luck.

[cainttype]

Al's moulds (NOE) are top notch.
Most, if not all, issues can be traced to the caster/operator. If not, Swede (Al) will make it right.
You couldn't be in better hands.

[Moonie]

Al's moulds (NOE) are top notch.
Most, if not all, issues can be traced to the caster/operator. If not, Swede (Al) will make it right.
You couldn't be in better hands.

This is 100% correct. This is not my first NOE mold, just my first HP one. An as I said, I have no doubt it is my inexperience with the PID. Have cast for 25+ years without one, learning new tricks.

[TXGunNut]

Good thread, timely too! My first RG mould is sitting on my bench, scrubbed and heat-cycled. Can't wait to pour some lead in that thing someday soon. Sure is pretty!

[220]

Followed the directions from the man himself and wouldn't you know it this is now the "worst" I have:

:bigsmyl2:

looks much better, glad you sorted it out

[Maximumbob54]

If anyone else has doubts about getting these molds working...

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x333/Maximumbob54/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150410_171542920_zpscwzoetsc.jpg (http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/Maximumbob54/media/Reloading%20and%20Casting/IMG_20150410_171542920_zpscwzoetsc.jpg.html)