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Bubba w/a 45/70
03-31-2014, 11:16 AM
I have a recently acquired Ruger Blackhawk (pre-warning label) in .357, and when I went out to test fire it, I had issues with the base pin walking out with every shot. After three shots, the pin moved enough to lock up the action until I would slide it back into place. I could not notice any differences between this pin and my other Blackhawk's (Bisley style in 357 also) pin, the base pin latch were identical in spring tension/workings/length/ect., and I am in need of some recommendations as to what I can do to remedy this problem.

I don't have this gun as a collector item, as it has been modified by previous owners, so there are no issues with repairs that aren't kosher, so to speak....

tek4260
03-31-2014, 11:19 AM
Pull the base pin completely out and note how deep the latch sits without the pin there, then reinstall the pin and see if the latch "sits as deep" This will let you know if the latch is fully seating. If it isn't fully seating, remove the latch and see where the base pin notch needs to be clearenced. A few strokes with a chainsaw file is usually all it takes to fix the problem.

Also, the latch may be battered from a lifetime of not seating fully and may have to be replaced. Belt Mountain makes a nice latch that is an improvement over the factory unit.

www.beltmountain.com

tek4260
03-31-2014, 11:21 AM
http://www.beltmountain.com/ruger/image/Latches2-800.jpg

per his voicemail message, they have them in stock. Notice they are more squared where they intersect the base pin than the factory unit.

Mk42gunner
03-31-2014, 11:59 AM
My SSM in .32 H&R Magnum did the same thing. I solved the problem with one of the Belt Mountain basepins, #5 style with locking screw IIRC.

It is a bit more difficult to remove the cylinder, but I can shoot all day without having to use sailor language while fixing re-installing the base pin.

Robert

Larry Gibson
03-31-2014, 12:30 PM
Pull the base pin completely out and note how deep the latch sits without the pin there, then reinstall the pin and see if the latch "sits as deep" This will let you know if the latch is fully seating. If it isn't fully seating, remove the latch and see where the base pin notch needs to be clearenced. A few strokes with a chainsaw file is usually all it takes to fix the problem...........

That is most often the problem and when corrected the factory cylinder pin works just fine. I've corrected several Rugers and other SAAs over the years just as mentioned. Never ad a problem after the "fix".

Larry Gibson

Bubba w/a 45/70
03-31-2014, 01:43 PM
Thanks guys I'm going to try the file system first, and then if that doesn't work new base pin from belt mountain.

Ghost101
04-01-2014, 05:49 AM
Did you happen to notice if the base pin latch was tight? I always carry two screwdrivers to adjust them when shooting. I would try that before a file. They won't move much, but a little torque can make a huge difference.

Ghost101

Larry Gibson
04-01-2014, 10:50 AM
Thanks guys I'm going to try the file system first, and then if that doesn't work new base pin from belt mountain.

If you've a lathe or drill press chuck the base pin in that and run the round file in the locking slot as the base pin turns. You get a nice even deepening all around and won't have alignment problems if you just deepen it in one spot. Doesn't take much so file a little and try until it's just right.

Larry Gibson

Bubba w/a 45/70
04-01-2014, 10:57 PM
Did you happen to notice if the base pin latch was tight? I always carry two screwdrivers to adjust them when shooting. I would try that before a file. They won't move much, but a little torque can make a huge difference.

Ghost101
I looked at the base pin/latch relationship tonight, and what I found is that there is more wear on the base pin than I previously thought. There is movement of the cylinder, base pin, and the latch is looser than my other blackhawk by quite a bit. I could get the base pin to release just by manipulating the latch with my fingers. And I tried tightening it, rusty....and don't have a forked bit to play with.

I'm considering just sending it into Ruger and have them go through it, and bring it back up to factory specs at least. Not to mention a bit of timing issue that isn't something I noticed when looking at the gun in the LGS...:x ...a LOT of drag on the cylinder by the cylinder latch. I guess that the previous owner enjoyed this revolver more than he liked taking care of it.