Modification to 358318 HP Mold

[Ben]

Some of you gave your opinions on my interest in modifying the HP pin on my 358318 mold. Here is the link to everyone's comments on the idea of shortening the HP pin :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?235739-Would-you-like-to-vote

Most said either a shallow HP pin or shoot it as a solid, but more importantly retain the original factory Lyman ( long ) hp pin "as is ". So I would not devalue the mold.

I thought that was wise strategy, so today I made a 2nd HP pin for the mold ( without any modification to the original ). Not having a lathe, the work was very slow. However , I'm pleased with the outcome.

I now have a 2nd shallow hp pin for the mold to compliment the original long Lyman pin. I may get some nose expansion, but I'd think with the current modification that the bulk of the bullet ( 7/8 th of it or so ) will behave as a solid.

The bullet with the long and deep hp opening just exploded on a white tail last year and basically tore off the shoulder of the deer. This modification should remedy that problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/P1010821.jpg

Here are photos of today's work:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/001-104.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/001-104.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/008-49.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/008-49.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/005-63.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/005-63.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/002-99.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/002-99.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/007-57.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/007-57.jpg.html)

The mold cast great bullets this afternoon with a near zero rejection rate.

[smoked turkey]

You did that without a lathe?? Amazing work Ben and does look like it will do a better job in the meat saving department. Thanks for the inspiration.

[Ben]

You did that without a lathe?? Amazing work Ben and does look like it will do a better job in the meat saving department. Thanks for the inspiration.



Stan,

Yes without a lathe.

I used a drill press, files and a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to fabricate the new style pin.

You're kind with your words.

Ben

[Randy C]

Looks good I think the new bullet is a up grade and will hit harder. What alloy did you use on your bullets did that contribute to the shattering of the led.

[Ben]

Randy C

I shot straight ACWW's on the deer with the long HP pin. It was a " flying bomb."

This modification today should have a better result.

I think that I'll also use a different alloy for this next hunting season coming up. I'll be using 50% PB and 49% ACWW's and 1% tin with this new design.

I'm hoping for improved performance from the bullet. It is an accurate bullet in my many .358 rifles, but far too explosive the way it was.

Ben

[Randy C]

Randy C

I shot straight ACWW's on the deer with the long HP pin. It was a " flying bomb."

This modification today should have a better result.

I think that I'll also use a different alloy for this next hunting season coming up. I'll be using 50% PB and 49% ACWW's and 1% tin with this new design.

I'm hoping for improved performance from the bullet. It is an accurate bullet in my many .358 rifles, but far too explosive the way it was.

Ben

It sounds like you mean business, you can blow um in half or hit them hard and knock um off there feet.

[country gent]

You may be surprised at the expansion from even the newe pins shallower hollow point. Once expansion starts and the dia gets bigger then more area is presented to force expansion. A soft alloy at 35 caliber opened to 40 will have much more area and thus force penetrating thru and may continue to expand. No to fine tune the alloy

[BNE]

Nice write up and pictures.

[Piedmont]

That looks great Ben. Much of your problem before was the straight wheel weights part. That would probably be fine with your new pin, though. If you feel like experimenting, shoot another deer with the deep pin and 1-20 tin to lead. I suspect it would hold together if you started it at 1700 fps or less.

[jhalcott]

I use an alloy of WW-Lino and pure. It gets a BHN of 15 on a LEE tester. I Flat POINT the 358318 in the sizing die OR "soft nose" it when I feel energetic. Shot at near 2000 FPS muzzle velocity, it seems almost unstoppable! It does show signs of expansion with exits 2 to 3 times entrance holes. I seldom shoot at game beyond 150 yards with cast and this bullet has never failed to work, no matter what nose shape it has! Even straight ACWW (BHN ~ 12) alloy works on deer at 18-1900 fps.

[357maximum]

Nice mod Ben.....one can fab alot of nice stuff with a drill press, files and some "desire".

I like your new strategy alot better, I still feel you have more HP than needed, but try some of the 50/50 waterdropped through the slats on bambi ....it will be a big improvement over what you had. I would still make darn sure I stayed off the shoulder though.

[Ben]

Thanks fellows.

Deer beware here on this end of things now ! !

[phaessler]

Beautiful work Ben, have been wanting to try some shallow/cup type hollow points and now I just need some more time...

Pete

[Ben]

phaessler

I'm certainly no machinist.....If I can make one, anyone can do it.

Ben

[Wolfer]

phaessler

I'm certainly no machinist.....If I can make one, anyone can do it.

Ben

You may not be a machinist but I suspect your pretty handy!
Woody

[SSGOldfart]

Looks great maybe that's the same problem I'm having in my 06,guess I could try a shallow HP

[smoked turkey]

Ben do you mind sharing what you used to make the pin from? I can see that it would be a really neat thing to do if pin stock were readily available.

[Ben]

Stan ,

I looked in my gun parts boxes and found some small lengths of steel drill rod, I turned and fabricated those parts into what you see.

I used the factory Lyman pin as a model and attempted to make a ' clone ' of it.

Ben

[Djones]

Drill rod is cheap. I picked up some from my local Fastenal store for about $1.25 per foot. I make my own lee universal decapping pins and plan to make my own NOE style hp pins

[glockmeister]

Ben, nice work with the at hand tools. You should get a mini-lathe, you'd have way more fun. You did very craftsmanship work, congrats. Take care, John.

[smoked turkey]

Thanks Ben for the info on using drill rod. Thanks Djones for the info on where a good place to find the stuff. I like this concept and would like to give it a try myself. Unfortunately my 358318 is solid nose so I'll have to come up with a different boolit to try it on!

[Ben]

Where there is a will, there is a way.

[leftiye]

Thanks Ben for the info on using drill rod. Thanks Djones for the info on where a good place to find the stuff. I like this concept and would like to give it a try myself. Unfortunately my 358318 is solid nose so I'll have to come up with a different boolit to try it on!

Actually, you can drill a hole for a hollow point pin in your mold. If you can center the drill purty close, the drill will actually perfect the centering for you (bends and finds lowest point ). Use a small diameter drill first as they're more flexible. It of course works even betterer in a spitzer mold. As lyman molds aren't always square and true, centering in the cavity doesn't get it all by itself. This mold with Ben's hollow point design (or a round bottomed cavity) is probly of legendary stature as far as kickin' butt is concerned. Specially in a Whelen.

[Ben]

leftiye

Speaking of the Whelen, I loaded some yesterday with my " new " shallow hp pin style bullets for my Ruger # 1, 35 Whelen , 40 degree, Ackley Improved.

I loaded 10 with 22.5 grs. of IMR 4227 and 10 rounds with 18.5 grs. of 2400.

Bullets sized to .3595 " Lube - Ben's Red
Wolf LR Primers.

I'll head to the range today and test them.

Ben

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/Photo0973.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/Photo0973.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/Photo0971.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/Photo0971.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/Photo0972.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/haysb/media/Photo0972.jpg.html)

[Ben]

Up Date,

I shot the Whelen loads yesterday at the range.

The 22.5 grs. IMR 4227 load is a " nail driver ".

Ben

[Blammer]

got any nail driven pictures. :)

[Ben]

Blammer

Nope, this was at 50 yards.
I might be premature....it may not do that well at 100 yds.
Of course, where I live, there are a lot of deer shot at + or - 50 yds.

Ben

[goofyoldfart]

A tip on drilling out molds. take the mold halves and use some marker on the inside at the tip of the nose on both halves then very gently LIGHTLY scribe a center line found with depth gauge at the tip. Indivigally (sp?) transfer that mark to the bottom of the mold halves. Place the mold back together and check the marks. do this checking several times to get the center then put together and lightly (holding in a vise padded) center punch and gently with a very small drill start a pilot hole. follow up with the proper pin diameter drill (a bees butt hair smaller so as to be able to polish). then fit the pin. I have done this several times years ago. worked like a charm. God Bless to all and theirs.

Goofy aka Godfrey:wink: