Maven's day at the range: Dixie TN Mtn. Rifle

[Maven]

All, I purchased a used .50cal. Dixie TN Mtn. (flintlock, Miroku) rifle* from the proceeds realized from the sale of my Ithaca Mod. 37 & Marlin #336, but hadn't fired it until today as the weather hasn't exactly been cooperative. Although the rifle was in good shape, it was filthy: the lock hadn't been cleaned and the bore was disgusting. It took at least a week to clean the latter using Hoppe's #9, bore brushes, gray Scotch Brite (000 steel wool equivalent) "patches" with an undersized jag, white auto body compound on patches and, finally, Ballistol. I also purchased 2 doz. new flints and a new vent liner as the touch hole on the original one was enlarged to say the least. I even ground some FFFg powder into an approximation of FFFg, as per your suggestion, and fabricated a 43" cleaning-/ramrod from a dowel, etc. obtained via Track of the Wolf. It wasn't as strong as they claimed since it broke in half after seating ~10 RB's. Fortunately, the original ramrod worked well even if it is a bit short (the bbl. is 41 1/4" long with a 1:56 twist). After a few sighters at 25yds., I moved the target out to 50yds. and tested the rifle with a front rest & rear bag. The load was 50gr. FFg + .490" RB + .018" patches (calico print) cut at the muzzle and lubed with Moose Milk (Winchester Sutler). I also swabbed the bore with a damp patch (Moose Milk) after each shot and dry patched it again afet seating the patched ball atop the powder charge. I later tried some pre-cut T/C patches which are ~.015", but changed nothing else.

Results: The rifle seems to like the tighter ball/patch combination, but it wasn't easy to [short] start or seat them. By contrast, the pre-cut, thinner patches (with RB's) were a breeze to start and seat, but grouped differently. Btw, none of the patches were blown (pretty easy to spot & recover them in the snow). I'll photograph and post a picture of the target tomorrow so you can see the two different groupings for yourselves. Also, maybe this flintlock is different, but I got better ignition with the priming powder evenly distributed in the pan rather than toward its outside, but this bears more careful scrutiny. All in all, I'm rather pleased with the rifle and its performance.

Excuses/whining: The front sight is nickel silver, which may have been better suited to a black bullseye than the target I used, especially with the low winter sun (We shoot to the southeast.) and later, the cloudy conditions. I.e., I need a bit more contrast to shoot my best with open sights.

*I've long admired the lines and simplicity of this particular rifle and jumped at the chance to bid on one.

[dubber123]

Sounds like a fun project, other than the weeks worth of cleaning. Eventually I'll get a flinter, but the percussions give me enough fits for right now.

[44man]

I spent 6 months building a flintlock and put original type sights on it. Out it the open I can hit a pop can offhand at 75 yd's. Down in the hemlocks in PA I could not hit a deer. The front sight looked like a ball of fire out there. I went home and bought some other sights, went back and had to problem hitting deer ever again.
But the gun does not look right now with more modern sights.
I know just what you are saying. :Fire: Might as well look into a flashlight.

[Maven]

44man, Ordinarily I'd prefer a Patridge front sight like the one on the T/C Renegade, but it wouldn't look right on this rifle nor would it "fit" the groove on the rear sight (primitive). However, I did add one to my .50cal. Mowrey rifle and find it a huge improvement over the original nickel silver blade.

I'm going to try to attach a photo of yesterday's target below. The 3-shot group to the right was fired with a T/C pre-cut [coarse fabric] patch @ ~.015". The other 5 were with a .018" patch. Other than varying the patch, everything else was the same: 50gr. FFg, Moose Milk (Winchester Sutler) patch lube & bore solvent, swabbing with MM before every shot, dry patching after seating the .490" RB (home cast) & patch.

[northmn]

You may continue to have problems with the front sight as glare can make them shoot low or to the right or left depending on the suns position. One old trick was to take and wipe the residue from the end of the barrel on the sight to reduce glare as it will slightly corrode even German silver. I still make sights by finding a piece of brass or steel and fitting it to the dovetail with a triangular file and then appropriately drilling the base fitting in a upright brass peice, peening the bottom and soft soldering it in place. I then filed a bead into the sight after shooting to get the right height. Or you could buy a blank and do the same thing. Since the steel is softer in your muzzleloading barrels you may want to get a sleeve that fits over the ramrod and protects the muzzle. I do not know the ball size but I used to prefer a tighter ball to a thinner patch, especially for competition. Try buying both 490 and 495 and seeing how they work before settling on a combination. Takes a few rounds as each barrel, even though made by the same manufacturer can be slightly different. Good luck, have fun.

Noerthmn

[Maven]

northmn, You're absolutely correct about the front sight, sun's position and target grouping even when using more conventional sights & cartridge rifles, especially milsurps. As for the .495" RB,* the Dixie rifle won't accept one with the .018" patch, but may with the thinner T/C precut ones. Thanks for the tip as I wouldn't have thought of using the larger RB. Also, always use a muzzle guard whenever I have to load or clean a rifle from the muzzle or slug its bore: Saves a lot of grief later on. I've also been looking locally for some stout material for a ramrod/cleaning rod after a brand new one broke in half yesterday. I saw nice oak dowels (7/16"), but none was longer than 36" (I need 48" so I can cut it to fit the 41" bbl.) and a few poplar and who knows what 48" ones (both were 7/16"), but I had to sort through ~50 to find 3 straight ones (2 mystery wood & 1 poplar). The local hardware store however has 72" x 3/8" zinc plated steel rods that may be a a more promising alternative to the wooden rods if I can solder or epoxy a brass fitting on one end and a drawer pull knob or door knob on the other: We shall see.


*My Lyman Great Plains rifle will accept a .495" RB and .018" patch, but accuracy hasn't been signifcantly better over the .490" RB and the same loading sequence.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I see you speak of moose milk on patches, seating the ball, dry patching after seating the ball. Allow me to suggest that MM is an expedient with a catchy name like bore butter: cheap to make and catchy. You know what it is, water soluble oil of some type. The old timers actually used a patch lubed with some combination of beeswax and tallow of some kind, as a usual practice and occasionally spit lubed for a quick shot as an individual variable practice. Lube with lube, wipe to clean with a fouling solvent. For target work wipe to clean and dry, then load powder and patch your ball with real lube. Better accuracy comes with a tighter loading patch/ball combination, but it is more work. You can get by with a looser combination for hunting as less precision is required. My personal belief is that with deeper grooves a thicker patch is required , but the ball should approach bore diameter for accuracy,at the expense of patch thickness as long as no blowby is evident. The ball being lead is maleable .

[Maven]

BvT, "Moose Milk" (Winchester Sutler) is both a fouling solvent and a patch lube of sorts. A competitive BP shooter (flintlocks mostly) in our club uses it regularly with excellent results. My experience with it mirrors his, but I'm open to suggestions. In fact I have a new container of "Old Slickum" along with 4 containers of "Young Country 103" patch lube to experiment with.
Btw some old timers, e.g. Ned Roberts, swore by bear oil while others preferred sperm/whale oil as patch lubes. As to the tight ball/patch combination, I agree with you completely since only 1 bbl. I had was indifferent to it. However, I still need to experiment with a .495" RB with a slightly thinner patch v. the .490" RB with a .018" patch (have to use a mallet to start them). The looser patch with the .490" RB bears further testing too, but it was a pleasure to load. Once the weather gets a bit warmer, I'll try some of the other lubes in the Dixie, Lyman and Mowrey rifles and report my results here.

I tried Dutch Schoultz' recipe for moose milk, but he no longer recommends it since new production water soluble machine oil has too many synthetic additives, which make it questionable for ML uses (e-mail reply to me).

[RayinNH]

Maven, Dixie Gun Works sells fiberglass ramrod material. Pretty reasonable too...Ray

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=1336

[floodgate]

Although I have used them in my old (4-digit serials, #5499 and #5050) T/C Hawken .50 flinter and percusser, I have been told that fiberglass rods can be terribly abrasive and should be used with a muzzle guard. Most of the ML shooters at our club use a rather flexible, black loading rod - maybe carbon fiber? Check with Track of the Wolf and see what they recommend. The rod carried in the thimbles for hunting will usually be a bit short of the full depth of the bore, due to space limitations in the forend; that is OK, as the load (powder and ball) will more than make up the difference in length and still leave you enough exposed rod to grip; and you will always have it with you! A loading rod, for use at the range, and back in camp for cleaning, should be about 4 - 6 inches longer than the bore.

I've gotta get back to M/L shooting; I've forgotten too much!

floodgate

[ktw]

....Most of the ML shooters at our club use a rather flexible, black loading rod - maybe carbon fiber? Check with Track of the Wolf and see what they recommend.

I really like the ones described by Track of the Wolf as "synthetic" for everyday use. I buy them 48" with one tip, cut them to length, and add a second threaded tip. You can bend them double without breaking them. They aren't abrasive like fiberglass. They don't pick up a lot of grit.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(ugjnip45hhwz5e55hs1zeqmn))/categories/tableList.aspx?catId=6&subId=48&styleId=142&PageSize=25&Page=2

-ktw

[obssd1958]

My local gunsmith turned a piece of solid brass rod into a VERY fine ramrod. Looks awesome, won't break, won't mar the barrel, works great! Cost = $25...
Something to think about, especially if you know someone who has a lathe.[smilie=1:

Don

[shooter575]

Shooting bright finnished C/W muskets the glair gan be real bad in the sun.I just keep a can of sight black in the shooting box.Also keep a little jar of poster paint [I like orange] to paint on front sight if conditions call for that.I just use a blade of grass as a brush. Both come off when cleaning.

[Maven]

All, I've studied both Dixie's & TOW's ramrod/cleaning rod options again late last PM. Both firms' offerings are quite reasonably priced and I'm thinking of ordering the 7/16 synthetic rod (Dixie's is brown; TOW has both black & brown, particularly if I break another one I hope the poplar dowel, now under construction, is a bit stronger than the ramin one I got from TOW. And I may just have to paint the front sight if glare and low contrast, so common in the winter on our range, prevent me from doing my best. Thnaks for your advice!

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Maven, think of shooting you flintlock as if you were shooting cast boolits. "sort of a lube" doesn't get it. The "solvent" in MM is really in the water, not the oil. Some shooters impress with skill, some with technology. Thats why you could even get teflon coated patching by the yard if you wanted. I use 40% BW and 60% carefully home rendered beef tallow as a lube for patches. I have no idea what "old slickum" and youngs are made of except that they are commercial products. I suppose pirates sell "OS". Flintlock/capock technology don't really need much more than BW/T lube and hot water for cleaning . By the way before you start shooting, lightly coat the area around the lock that gets smut on it with lube finger applied to ease cleanup. Not the frizzen face or pan though. Bear oil and sperm oil were prized as natural, pre-petroleum lubes for sure and Ned was late in the era. My experiments were with coon fat which I rendered and it was excellent. But I don't get as many to skin as once upon a time. Old narratives tell of long hunters rendering bear oil by the cask so it must have been good for lots of things, like lighting. Get a first class steel range rod with a non-swivelling handle and a muzzle guard for loading and cleaning with a m/l jag except when in the woods. If you set up for 8-32 threads it will be compatible with nearly all gun cleaning things, and you can pull a load with a ball screw as the handle will be solid. Buying the rod is your chance to order a couple bone fide pieces of ramrod stock too. For sights a bit of poster paint as noted works well or a tiny bit of reflective tape for woods gloom. A iron sight hunter easily looses 1/2 four of shooting in eastern woods as the light fades. Crush your own priming powder as real testing has shown it to give noticeably faster ignition. I use an old shoe polish can, a tsp powder at a time, and gently crush it with my moulding stick end till I have enough. Good shooting. BvT

[Maven]

BvT, My preference really would be for a stout steel rod as you suggest, but neither Dixie nor TOW offers a fixed-handle version. I have a shorter 1/4" Dixie product, but it flexes too much as it is. A 44" version would be much worse. Also, I have my father's mortar & pestle (He was a pharmacist when medications weren't all commercially packaged.) and I used it to reduce a small amount of FFg to something like FFFFg: Very fast & effective. As for patch lubes, etc. would white Crisco be a proper substitute in your lube recipe or must it be beef tallow? And thanks for reminding me to coat the area around the vent with some kind of lube. I do that with my caplocks for the reason you mention. Btw, my competitive shooter friend does use teflon coated patches in his high $$$ rifles, but I can't see that they alone result in high accuracy. All cotton tightly woven fabric store cloth that mikes out to ~.018" (The micrometer goes to the store with me.) has served me well for the last 25yrs. and is easy to find and reasonably priced. As for the front sight, I have some dayglow pink & orange paint that I won't hesitate to apply (and is easy to remove) if I must. Thanks for your advice!


P.S. While shopping for dowels yesterday at Lowes, I came across 1/4" x 48" road/driveway marking rods (so snow plows won't dig up your lawn or blacktop) that could be fashioned into a cleaning rod, but only if used in conjunction with a muzzle protector. With their bright colors, it would be dificult to misplace them! The thicker (~3/8") version has a reflector at one end, but alas, was too short for my needs.

[waksupi]

Wandering sideways here.

As to length of ramrods. Most of us prefer that they don't stick out far beyond the muzzle. But recently, I watched "Alvin York" again. The ml rifle he carried, has a ramrod sticking out probably 8-10 inches beyond the muzzle. I don't believe this was a Hollywood screw up. This was an original rifle he was carrying, at a period where they were common for very little money.
I know I would have the darn thing hung up in the brush all the time. But, it would certainly help to have the extra length, if you were not packing around a spare loading rod, or expected to not be able to go home and clean the rifle. Anyone who has had a patch stuck on a jag down the barrel, can see the help of the extra handhold.
The longer rod wouldn't affect the accuracy, assuming the rifle was shot with it in place each shot.

[ktw]

Ramrod length:

I like them muzzle length in the spindles, with a threaded caps on both ends. This works 'as is' for loading in the field. Add a jag and they are long enough for most cleaning purposes.

My home-made short starter has a 8/32 threaded machine screw sticking out one side, allowing me to use it as a fixed handle for pulling balls and a recess in the other side which fits over the ramrod allowing it to be used as loose handle for loading (i.e. a ramrod 'pusher').

-ktw

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I got my m/l rods from a Muzzle Blasts supplier, but they been out of business for years now. Maybe the Muzzle Blasts people could put you in the right trail for some one current. I have several highly polished rods in 3/8" dia., different lengths that are just dandy with the black ball handle and protector. I use a 1/4 incher for a long .32 and don't worry about it for up to a long 45. If Track has a stout enough rod long enough, cut and thread for a common threaded ball from a machine supply place. BTW if you have a cupped jag, flatten the cup edges so it is harder to cut cleaning patches on the face of the breech plug. KTW's gun rod hole in his short starter is a darn good idea too if you spend much time afield. I've only used crisco with BW for making a sort of stiff cold cream concoction for greasing over the ball in for cap & ball pistols. Send me an address and I'll send you come pure,genuine Carolina Herd Bull tallow for alloying BW, or the butcher will give you carcass trimmings. Tell him not rancid please, your aunt is showing the kids how GGrand Ma made soap back in the Indian Salt Springs Valley. Fry it carefully so the rendered oil stays light . Dip out the cracklins and simmer the oil a bit longer to make sure the water in the flesh/fat was fully driven off. Screen through a gauze cloth/funnel and save in a covered tub in a kitchen cupboard. That bacon grease/boiling stuff one hears about is for no good. I had one of those bendy plastic ramrods one time. They are very good to cut up to give to your pistol shooting bullseye buddies for squib rods. If you lose a patch in a flint about 1/3 of your normal pan charge poked into the flashhole will blow it out. On caplock a little powder in the nipple and a cap works well too. Bvt

[northmn]

I missed the part about using hardware store dowels, don't as they have been known not only to break but to injure the hand. If one is a purist and insists on wooden rods, they need to be treated with oil, preferably HOT linseed oil to get penetration (not BC stock finish). They claimed many of the old timers carried an extra rod for loading in the barrel. All suggestions work I'm sure. I bought an adapter for a shotgun rod that takes 8-32 threads and use two shotgun cleaning rods, ie one section from one set added to a complete set to get the extra length needed. Works good especially for cleaning. I also bought a brass rod made up into a range rod many years ago with an antler handle for loading. For target shooting I used a tighter combo than for reloads out in the field. For hunting I used a reload that could be loaded with the rifles ramrod without shortstarter (I carried loading blocks with prepatched balls). You might use the 490 ball for that type of use and the 495 with a thiner patch for targets and matches. As to cleaning liquids and patch lube there is more alchemy than you can imagine Matthews had a good idea and uses water and radiator antifreeze as it contains anti-corrosive treaments. You probably could make a couple of quarts to one cup or pint of antifreeze added to water. In a pinch water works pretty good but you should look at the barrel the next day and add another coat of oil if needed. For a flintlock I stick a round toothpick in the vent and pour in a good dose of cleaner down the barrel (usually water) and pour it out to get rid of the worst fouling then proceed with the patches treated with more cleaning liquid. More alchemy for patch lubes. I mostly used Crisco as it worked and was cheap. One individual used salt free soft margerine for cold weather hunting. Many including myself put a patch between the powder and patched ball to prevent grease contamination to the powder if the rifle is to be carried for some time hunting. Nothing wrong with commercial lubes except expense as compared to other options. BP is a salt compound (potasium nitrate or saltpeter) and anything water based dissolves the stuff. Lots of people used spit patches which work well in a pinch, but I used to run a little low on hot days at matches. Moose milk depends on the reference but originally was based on machinists water soluable oil or fish oil. you might be able to pick up the oil at a machine shop with a light mix to avoid rusting. I think they used a quart to a gallon for solvent. I read about using the racoon oil, bet it works good too if you can find a coon to cooperate. Bear oil also makes good pastries I was told. Muzzle loading with a historical muzzleloader like you have is fun and the experimentation is fun which is the name of the game. Good shooting have fun.

Northmn

[TCLouis]

I will assure you that you will never regret getting the metal rod for shooting at the range.


Wood looks good, the aluminum and plastic/fiberglass rods are ok, but you will be glad you spent the bucks on the SS Rod.

My newest one is 15 years old and going strong.

[northmn]

TCLouis, just curious as I agree with you. I bought a brass rod about 5/16 diameter that was made up for front stuffers many years ago and am using it (with a muzzle guard) a SS rod would be great too. Your SS rod is it a solid rod or does it take apart? I have more rods than I can care to mention break at the joint where they unscrew. Solids ones don't.

Northmn

[Guido4198]

Get a one piece range rod..!!
Looking through my records...I can offer 2 sources not previously mentioned..Don't know their current status as it's been a few years(2002-2003) but you might try..
Thunder Ridge Muzzleloading, Woodland Park Colo. 719-687-6510

Tip Curtis Frontier Shop, Cross Plains Tennessee 615-654-4445 ( A conversation with Tip might be a real benefit to you...it was to me)

When I decided to replace the original bbl. on my 50 cal. T/C Hawken, I got a 32" Green Mtn. "drop-in" bbl. for roundballs from Tip. He advised me that if I wanted to really tighten up my groups...I would have to shoot a VERY tight combination. I went to a .500 roundball w/ .017-.018 patch. VERY tight...using a 3/8" solid brass range rod, and keeping my bbl. clean between shots, loading isn't too difficult. I use a mallet with my "short starter" to get this combo. started into the bbl...then one long steady push with that brass rod, and she's home. With iron sights, shooting for group off sandbags I get one ragged hole @ 50 yds. using 70 gns. ffg powder, @ 100 yds.(with 80 gns. powder) it opens up to 1.6-1.75 in. Note: I cast my own roundballs, visually sort, then weight grade to +/- 0.5 gns.
Also...Ballistol works GREAT as a cleaner, protectant, patchlube(mixed 50/50 w/ water).
Hope this helps...
Cheers,
Don

[mooman76]

I like the wooden rods. Almost all my M/L's have them. On the same note I don't use them because of obvious stated reasons but I still like having them with my guns to keep them correct. I have verious rods I've p/u here and there. Frome the soft plastic rods to steel. I think the ones I like best but I can't remeber their nam are the ones that were wood but a material was injected or forced into the wood to make them almost like a fiberglass.

[piwo]

My local gunsmith turned a piece of solid brass rod into a VERY fine ramrod. Looks awesome, won't break, won't mar the barrel, works great! Cost = $25...
Something to think about, especially if you know someone who has a lathe.[smilie=1:

Don

Look something like this?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/jsquaredjcubed/Shooting%20Pics/Rangerod.jpg

Local fella here makes and sells them at blackpowder shoots and the like. Solid brass stock, smooth antler handle, and you can change tips, threaded either 8X32 or 10X32. VERY nice to have at the range. Ball screw, jag, whatever you need. No worry about anything snapping, and STRONG to boot. Notice near the top the "shiny" spot: the upper limit of it is where the rod stops when loading my standard load. Instant check to tell if you did something wrong or out of sequence :oops:8-)

[TCLouis]

one piece. I said SS, but I think they are just drill rod, Not stainless.

That is what I use to make my cleaning rods.

I trust joints less than wood!

IF one insists on using a wood rod, please, never grab it more than 6-8 inches from the muzzle when seating your projectile.

Tipi is a great source of materials, and will lead one pretty straight.

[Underclocked]

http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/item_index.asp

Select Item Category - Super Rods - Hunter for the thimbles various lengths/diameters available - made of Delrin with brass fittings - excellent rod!

http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/select_item.asp?item=18091 is 7/16" diameter and makes a great range rod. It's Delrin with brass fittings and you would have to try very hard to break it. Will not damage rifling. I have that very rod and altered the plain end to accept a 45 caliber jag with a smooth transition. It barely fits in a .45 bore but works very well. You can buy additional jags for larger calibers if needed. I've never felt the need of a handle as the thick rod allows me plenty of grip. In your case, adding an extended t-handle would get the length you need.

Other possibilities http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/select_item.asp?item=318040 or http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/select_item.asp?item=318037 and Cain's will make you about anything you would possibly want in the way of a custom rod for a very reasonable price.

I have a pair of solid stainless rods - one with a T handle (.50 cal) and the other has a rotating handle (.45 cal). Both have bore guides. They are excellent rods and work very well, making seating most anything an easy task. I rarely use them, the Delrin rod is nearly always my first pick.

[Ricochet]

Hey Maven, I have one of these, too. I bought mine as a kit, got it for Christmas 1980 and put it together over the following weeks. With my inexperience it's not quite as "finished" as the commercial complete version, but it looks good, shoots well and I'm proud of it. Wish now I'd gotten the convertible setup with percussion gear, too, but mine's just a flinter.

[northmn]

Rocohet. "just a flinter" When I was shooting more in competition, there were three of us that regularly kicked butt on percussions. It was offhand shooting and crosssticks. One of the three (a person that I beat once in a while and felt darn good when I did) was good enough that one organization made a rule that you had to shoot percussion in percussion matches. He built a percussion just for that group. Once the other two sent a couple of gentlemen home practically crying as they were going to show the hicks how to shoot with percussion zip-guns (these were custom made in-lines before Knight started up). The last flinter I built promptly got its owner an 8-point buck. I don't even know if the stock finish was totally cured yet. When loaded right and primed right with the proper lock geometry, a flintlock can be faster than some of "Hawkin" style weapons with the bolster breechs as the touch hole goes directly from pan to barrel. The mule ear and underhammer locks in originals were an attempt to speed things up for percussion by placement of the nipple directly in the barrel and were used by the very serious competitors at the nationals. The percussion era in muzzle loading only lasted about 40-50 years (some say even less), the flintlocks were around for over 200 years. Ya percussion replaced flintlocks, they are fun at times too I admit as I shoot both. (still shoot mostly flintlock) But in this day and age where they are doing some interesting things to what they call muzzleloaders, the flinters have remained more historical in nature. The Dixie rifle is in my opinion about as good of an off the shelf flinter as one can get. Enjoy shooting whatever you enjoy, it was kind of fun replying to your "just a flinter" comment. Have fun.

Northmn

[Ricochet]

Oh, I quite agree with you. I only meant that it's a flinter, not a switch ignition system. If I had a percussion, I'd've shot it a lot more over the last few years when BP has been unobtainable locally (within 400 miles) and is only practical to order in larger quantities than I'm really comfortable storing. But I'd rather shoot it as a proper flinter with real BP, of course. I am cursing the regulations and the regulators.

[Maven]

All, I was away from my 'puter since New Years' Day* and just read the new posts a few minutes ago. I probably will either fabricate (not my first choice) or purchase a solid brass or 3/8" or 7/16"(better) steel rod and muzzle guard and non-rotating handle in the very near future. Actually I have a heavy steel one that would suffice except for the length. And yes, my experience with both caplocks and the flintlock is in keeping with your advice re a tighter patch & ball combination. Since I have to use a plastic mallet to start the RB's, a solid metal rod seems to be the better way even though I have a few extra 7/16 dowels and 1 1/2" round wooden balls (dolls heads, really! at Michael's craft stores; maybe $0.99 ea.). Thanks in advance for your help and excuse the lateness of my reply.

Ricochet, The Dixie product is a beauty! Mine has a few scars (small ding on bbl., re-glued chip on buttstock, etc.) due to being carried and used, but nevertheless, seems quite sound and I think, an accurate piece.


*Had to help my daughter the professor drive from Falls Church, VA -> Tampa, FL. Was to fly to Balto. (BWI) on the nite of Jan. 1, but the weather was so bad (5"+ of snow) that I decided to take Amtrak to NYC and then get a connecting train to Wash., DC. Left on the morning of Jan. 2 and got to Savannah, GA by late afternoon in time to enjoy the freezing weather. Got to Gainseville, FL by 1PM and saw frost(!) on the grass in shaded areas. It was 37 - 40 deg. in Tampa this morning when I left for the airport. It's less than 30 in Kingston, NY as I write. Do I know how to have fun or what?

[Ricochet]

That's quite a drive, Maven!

[northmn]

I was just having a little fun on the flinter comments. Difficulties in getting black powder have probably done more to undermine the sport than anything else. Part of the reason the new zip guns exist is because the "substitutes" do not substitute very well in historical arms. In my experience Pyrodes R-S and P have given the worst results, Pyrodex Select is a little better and H777 better yet. They have a tendency to hangfire and I got way bettter grouping with black. One recommendation was to duplex the black and pour an ignition charge of about 10 grains first and then top it off with the substitutes if one has limited amount of black. Might work but sounds like a proper pain in the sacro iliac region. As I have a fair access to black I have not tried Pioneer but have seen it advertised as suitable for flintlocks. At the local prices for the stuff one should be able to buy golden round balls to complement it. For percussions one can get a nipple that will take a musket cap that will wotk in some "Hawken" style rifles that also might help. This should be a seperate thread in itself. We are having a warm spell in Northern Minnesota right now at 37 degrees. It was getting down to about 15 below at night and only in the teens in the day time. Only light between about 8 AM and 430PM. Plenty of snow this year. Really messes up my urges to go out and shoot. I kind of hibernate in the winter.

Northmn

[Ricochet]

Doggone percussion caps are priced like gold now, and hard to find too. (I have a Colt Walker replica that uses 'em. I've been substituting Pyrodex RS in it, and it works satisfactorily, but I greatly prefer FFFg.)

[northmn]

Yesterday I decided to buy more black powder as you got me to thinking about finding sources for the stuff. My source is an older man that keeps selling to aid in retirement. I am within about 200 miles of Track of the Wolf so that I would have to save pennies and buy in bulk to pay for the trip. I used to work close to the St Paul/Minneapolis area but moved back north as all the traffic went one way on weekends. You are right about caps. I have almost used up a batch I bought back when by the thousand. I feel like I am getting old and out of touch, I still think $100 is a lot of money.

Northmn